BMO & Hydroponics

Never tried it, but when I asked BMO this very question they told me "yes" in an ebb & flow type system, but "no" in a bubbler type system, because it has a kind of 'gel' in the bottom of the bottles, and it can clog your tubes.

I have not used all the BMO products in a hydro set up but I did use Super Plant Tonic in a DIY areoponic system and a DIY DWC system and had no problems with clogs in 1/4" lines,pumps, or srayers. Nor did I see any settlements. I was useing Gernal Hydropnics MaxiGro which is a dry one-part chemical fertilizer. I did not have the same successs with Neptune's Havest orgainc fertilizers.

I have to add that I did have great results with BMO's SPT in my hydro setups. I had lots of fluffy pure white massive roots.

I am currently growing with all BMO products. Having a bit of difficulty at the finish... i have a deficiency of some kind. Check out my grow journal if you want to see more.

My system is DWC with a drip on a timer... i like the SPT and the Grow it Green, but i am not sure the the Flower Power stuff is doing as much as it should. I have some pretty sad yellowing happening.

billdo said:

I am currently growing with all BMO products. Having a bit of difficulty at the finish... i have a deficiency of some kind. Check out my grow journal if you want to see more.

My system is DWC with a drip on a timer... i like the SPT and the Grow it Green, but i am not sure the the Flower Power stuff is doing as much as it should. I have some pretty sad yellowing happening.

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How far into flowering are you? Are those autoflowering strains? Yellowing of the bottom leaves is normal & good in the last weeks of flowering.

I am 5 weeks into flowering. I just started their flush.

No, they are not autoflowering strains. The healthier one is Sensi Star, and the sadder one is Purple Wreck.

An update for you guys. Been feeling better about the BMO line. Really good stuff when used correctly. I will be using a bit of grow it green with my flower power for the first couple of weeks of flowering. This should ensure that a nitrogen deficiency is not a problem. Also, the veg cabinet is looking fantastic on the Grow it Green and Super Plant Tonic.

My Sensi Star got cut down last night, and it looks fantastic all trimmed up.

Billdo... That Seni Star looks great. I'm glad you got your girls dialed in. The BMO stuff is good, I just think they need to add a little more N to their bloom fert.
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But, by using some of the grow it green - in the early stages of flowering, you can avoid premature yellowing. I figured that out, the second time I used it.
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Here is a little feeding chart I put together - it might help someone. It should work for most strains.
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Hope this helps.... To print it, just click on the attached document, then right click your mouse and hit the print option.
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OhSo... i wish i had a daily reputation feeder that would dose you with a fresh supply of rep on set intervals.

Your chart is bad ass. I need to start recording and charting things related to my grow. Basically what you show in that program is exactly what I am trying now with the plants in my veg side right now. A TRANSITION to bloom nutes rather than a SWITCH to bloom nutes should help Mary a great deal by providing nitrogen at this critical juncture of her life.

Have you been using the plan on this chart or is this more for those of us who are having issues?

billdo said:

Your chart is bad ass. I need to start recording and charting things related to my grow. Basically what you show in that program is exactly what I am trying now with the plants in my veg side right now. A TRANSITION to bloom nutes rather than a SWITCH to bloom nutes should help Mary a great deal by providing nitrogen at this critical juncture of her life.

Click to expand...

Yeah, def do a transition instead of just dropping the grow nute, and going to flower. This is true with any ferts that you use, not just BMO. Even though the plant is flowering, they still need a decent amount of nitrogen for the first part of flowering, or your leaves will yellow & fall pretty fast. Just continuely lower the dose of the Grow It Green during flowering.

The only other nutes that I'm using on my current grow is Alaska MorBloom 0-10-10, & Molasses. Everything else I'm using is BMO and I have great results.

OSG, Thanks alot.. I been using BMO sense Oct. have had yelowing and leaf drop everytime I go into flower..
well with one exception.I have to tell this story, I had a clone , it was rooting, but all the leaf yellowed and was almost gone.so I pitched her in the trash. about a week later was getting the trash ready to burn and here is this clone with massive roots. so I said what the hell and planted the bitch added some STP... I just forgot about her mostly, water her once a week maybe. just a lil nutes. and she just kept on growing and growing, anyway,long story short, she is at 57 days in flower and looking GREAT. 3 ft of all BUD.... just now started yellowing. and looks like it's been dipped in sugar...can't wait... I named her Trash clone!!!!LOL
I wish, I would have done before and after pics. it was amazing the difference the STP made, and makes, clones just blow up!!!!!!
I feel for you guys speading all that money on Advanced Nutes....
I guess we better keep BMO our lil secret, cause I've already seen the price go up twice. LOL, But worth every penny....

Thanks Again OSG for the chart. It was good of ya to take the time. I was worried the BongHits dude would bum u out and u stop helping us.. We luv ya, and all your input...

billdo said:

I would have to agree. BMO should pay you for making that chart.

BILLDO

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Billdo..... That would be nice, but ..... then the Feds...could say " RICO", the Hippies & OSG are conspiring to manufacture an illegal substance. They'd be out of business & I'd probably be the only one to get jail time (my luck)..... LOL....
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Really stupid isn't it. How can you manufacture a plant. God made it, made it to produce seeds and even tells us in the bible - he did it for our benefit. Now, I don't have a beef with them taking down meth labs, or busting the guy who sells crack or herion to kids....... but leave the green alone........ the war on weed makes no sense what so ever..............
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Thanks for the thought though...... it's nice.......
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Great news!
The tide is starting to turn. I believe that it will be regulated and taxed in CA within 3 years... and the rest of the country will follow in the years thereafter.

http://www.canorml.org/news/ammianobill.html

Has anyone ever used Super Plant Tonic in hydro with chemical nutes instead of organic? Is this possible, or will the chem salts kill off the micro-beasties?

The reason I ask is that I am now finding that Organic nutes are not working for me in my micro setup, whereas my old 2-part Advanced Nutrients sensi nutes worked wonderfully.

any advice or comments on this matter?

copped the whole line because, of the dude that introduced BMO to RIU. just starting(week 2) plants look great. but, i'm not impressed by BMO in the least bit. SPT might be some good, but, as far as, the grow g, bloom, and foliar i'm like where is the smell. when i got the the nutes i was like man i sure got what i paid for. they seem really watered down if you ask me. i'm going to let BMO run the gambit but, i can see i'll have to add a few things to my feed. just staring grade -C. hopefully that grade will increase. oh yeah, rubbermaid bottom layered with 50l hydroton with a brick and a half of Empire coco on top

I'm having a hard time finding the answer to this question and am hoping this is a decent place to try. If using the BMO GIG in my vegetative cycle at the recommended dose but only getting PPM readings of ~225 should I up the dosage to the PPM of that recommended on your BMO feeding chart?

super plant tonic isn't a fertilizer. also the guidelines on the bottles are just that guidelines. I typically use them in higher doses and have no problems. been using the stuff since 2009 and love it as do the others i know that use it. always shake it well before mixing into water. leave the caps on loose.

Here's a writeup the owner of BMO sent me a while back: Good information.
The Grow It Green should be used every 5 to 7 days (ever 5 th day
> for heavy feeding plants, 7 th day for light feeding plants, and every
> 12 to 14 for houseplants). The Foliar Harmony should be used as needed
> (when foliage appears lighter green than normal). Or no more than once
> every 7 days, to help boost growth.
> Since your wife fed them with the Foliar Harmony, I'd wait two
> days before feeding, via the roots. Foliar feeding is a very
> efficient way to feed / correct minor deficiencies. Nutrients from
> foliar feeding travels to all parts of the plant in just under two
> hours on average.
> However, frequent foliar feeding (more than once every 7 days),
> will discourage root growth. In order to have respectable yields with
> plants such as Tomatoes, good root development is a must. Allowing
> the soil to dry slightly, then doing a deep watering and/or feeding
> with a slight runoff from the bottom of the pots, will ensure great
> root development.
> Tomatoes also require up to twice the recommended amounts of
> Grow It Green and Flower Power.
>
> Here are some general use guidelines which may be helpful:
>
> The best way to use our products is in rotation. Water, feed, water,
> feed, (foliar feed as necessary), on separate days, in a continuous
> cycle. All of our liquid products can be mixed together in the same
> gallon of water, with no loss in performance.
> With the separations in NPK values, you can tune your
> fertilizer mix, to the values that best suit your particular plant(s).
> We recommend that you mix each liquid product as per the label on the
> bottle.
> The Super Plant Tonic should be used from seedling stage until
> 3/4 of the way through the total growth period for short season plants
> (plants with a total life of 6 months or less). For trees or shrubs it
> can be used throughout the year, provided soil temperatures are above
> 40 degrees. You mix it as per the label, giving each plant one quart
> per gallon of soil volume (1 gallon maximum for in ground plants).
> Then it's best to wait two days, to allow the microorganisms to
> establish a stable population, before feeding (this applies only to
> the first time you use the SPT). After that, it can be used weekly and
> directly mixed in with the other products if you desire.
> The Grow It Green is used during initial vegetative growth. Use
> weekly, giving each plant one quart of mixed up GIG, per gallon of
> soil for container plants. Example: 2 gallon pots would receive 2
> quarts of mixed up GIG per week. If your plants are in the ground, 1/2
> gallon (for light feeding plants) to 1 gallon per week for heavier
> feeding plants).
> Then just prior to fruit / nut / vegetable / or flower
> production, reduce the mixing strength of GIG to 1/2 the bottle
> recommended mixing strength and add the Flower Power at 1/2 the bottle
> recommended mixing strength. Then slowly reduce the mixing strength of
> the GIG, while increasing the mixing strength of the FP. The
> decreases and increases should be done in teaspoon sized measurements
> ( 5 ml).
> The Foliar Harmony can be used during vegetative growth and
> during fruit / nut / vegetable or flower production. During
> vegetative growth, we recommend foliar application every two weeks.
> During flowering, foliar application during the first few weeks only,
> works best.
> FH can also be mixed in with FP (instead of or in conjunction
> with the GIG), during the fruit / nut / vegetable or flower production
> phase of growth, to increase nitrogen levels to ensure plants finish
> at their peak (staying green slightly longer, to increase yield).
> If you do use the FH as a Foliar Feed during the later half of
> flowering, please rinse foliage with room temperature water, twice
> over a two day period prior to harvest. This is best done early in the
> morning or late in the evening, with temperatures are cooler. Or prior
> to lights on, if growing indoors. Both the tops and bottoms of the
> leaves need to be rinsed until a good runoff occurs.
> These are general guidelines for using our products, some plants,
> like corn and tomatoes, which are heavy feeders, can be fed twice the
> label recommended amounts, after the second week of vegetative growth.
> The best (safest) way to determine the proper feeding levels
> for your particular plants is to start at 1/2 the label recommended
> feeding strength, for the first feeding. Then slowly increase the
> mixing strengths of our products, with each feeding (in teaspoon
> increments). This helps avoid nutrient burning of foliage, which can
> slow down plant production.
> Some people also try feeding most of their plants at 1/2 the
> label recommended mixing strength, then feed two plants at the bottle
> recommended mixing strength, the first feeding. If the plants being
> fed the stronger mixing strength show no signs of nutrient burn, then
> you know it's safe to increase the mixing strength for the others, at
> the next feeding.
> However, if the two plants being fed the stronger mixing
> strength, do show signs of nutrient burn, you have only affected two
> plants rather than your whole crop. You would then simply skip the
> next feeding of the nutrient burned plants and give them only water on
> the next feeding day. After that, they would then receive the same
> mixing strength as the larger group on the next scheduled feeding day.
> If you use a PH meter to check your mixed up fertilizer
> solution, all of our products work best in the range of 5.5 to 7.2
> 5 to 6 for hydroponics, 6 to 7.2 for soil.
> A TDS / EC meter used to determine ppm or EC, will be of little
> use with our products. The NPK in each is bound differently than the
> highly conductive commercial chemical based fertilizers.
> Use of that meter will not reflect the true NPK value of your
> mixed up fertilizer solution, since organic fertilizers are less
> conductive, because of the way the NPK is bound in longer carbon and
> hydrogen chains. Organic fertilizers also lack, PH stabilizers, dyes
> and the high mineral salt content of the chemical based fertilizers,
> which is why organic fertilizers are much healthier for both your
> plants and you.
> Our only recommendations about the water you add our products to
> are: that is should be chlorine free (for best results) and have a ppm
> reading of less than 180 ppm. Above that level, mineral elements in
> hard water tend to cause other minerals in the fertilizers to drop out
> of solution, rending them less effective.
> I hope this information is helpful. If you have any other
> questions, please feel free to email us. We will do our best to answer
> them promptly.
> Thank You. Signed. - Bill Nelson, Owner of Blue Mtn Organics
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