Just did my first cloning. I didn't have rooting hormone. And the leaves were instantly down after some two minutes. Tried some more times and put right away into water, but still the same. Just some two clones out of six were looking better. Why so? Is it possible for them to recover?
Cloning help
- Thread starter mj_newbie
- Start date
VictorVIcious
Well-Known Member
Welcome to the forum. I applaud you for trying to clone early. Wilting leaves on a cutting doesn't mean its dead. Some folks in this forum just put the cuttings in water, with a little sun and show good success. You probably haven't killed them.
Of course its possible they could recover. What medium are you using? VV
Of course its possible they could recover. What medium are you using? VV
green_nobody
Well-Known Member
what ever the method you use may be, it is quiet a bit about preparation in the first place which determines if you get lucky or not. cloning hormones can be bought at many places, from walmart to a local garden center and also cheap ones and powders work great.
secondly, if leaves turn limp for a moment doesn't tell anything, as long they still green the battle goes on, welcome to the ER
secondly, if leaves turn limp for a moment doesn't tell anything, as long they still green the battle goes on, welcome to the ER
green_nobody
Well-Known Member
so this would be the high end way posted by videoman40. i move similar with jiffies instead of rockwool cubes.
Posted by videoman40:
The first and most important step in making clones is to learn how to spot a female plant with extra special qualities. There is little point in making clones of inferior quality plants, since then you will end up with an inferior quality garden and who wants that? By keeping your standards high you will eventually be rewarded with a generously-yielding growing patch. It is also important in that since we can easily take cuttings, we can also very easily make clones of seed plants and by doing so determine whether these are male or female, because we can make these clones bloom.
A cutting is a side branch or a part of a branch of an existing plant. A good cutting is between 10 - 15 cm long and possesses several leaves. We cut the cutting off at an angle with a knife or razor blade between two leaf nodes.
After having cut our first clones, we have to remove the excess leaves. We make sure that we are left with leaves at the bottom on the lowest 2 cm of the cut clone. This is because the roots develop best at this point; on the wounds where leaves once were, roots most rapidly develop.
Especially when dealing with outdoor plants, it can be the case that the branches have developed a hardened stem. In order to accelerate the formation of roots we can scrape away a thin layer from the lower-most 2 cm with a knife. By doing so we can ensure that the root stimulator we are going to use can more easily penetrate the cutting and do its work.
There are many different sorts of root stimulator available that will help our clones take root. The most frequently used methods are those that involve dunking the ends of the cuttings into liquid root stimulator that has been diluted. After waiting ten seconds or so, the absorption by the clones should be complete. Or on the other hand, you could use the old-fashioned technique of just dipping the end of the cutting in cutting powder. The lower-most centimetres are covered with cutting powder, making sure that only the sides of the cutting are covered with powder and not the whole cutting, since this risks suffocating the clone. A thin layer of powder is sufficient; too much can be damaging. These days rooting hormones in gel form are also popular and they are getting better all the time. I use a combined method whereby I first dip the clone in liquid root stimulator and after, dip it in cutting powder too.
As the last step we have to put the clones into a medium, and one of the very best for letting clones take root in are cutting blocks made of stone wool. These blocks or plugs let lots of air in, which is just what the cuttings need for making roots quickly. We simply make a small hole in the block and place the cutting into this, without losing too much powder off it while doing so.
We have now arrived at the final stage, in which we will finally get the cuttings to try and develop roots. In order to speed up the process we can place the clones in a humidity dome. We can easily maintain a high humidity in this, and doing so is important to ensure the clones do not dry out in their first few days. The important factors during the making of clones are warmth and even more so, a warm undersoil. Root temperature is of enormous importance, since warmth stimulates the roots to develop much more rapidly. A warming mat will prove its usefulness. The second factor is air moisture content, and usually the problem of having too much moisture in the air. You have to try and see it from the point of view of a freshly cut clone, which from now on has to supply itself with its own moisture but in order to do so has to first develop its root system.
Only during the very first days do we have to support the clone with a high air moisture content, after which no more. Precisely by allowing the air moisture to fall, we force the plants to send out more roots. Should we not do this then the process will take longer. It so happens that a plant can extract moisture out of the air in order to survive and by doing so hang on for weeks without making any new roots. In the first few days we give the plant a chance to set the whole process in motion. Give it a good (spray) watering just once at the beginning, and after this give the plant no more spraying, as this will only serve to retard the whole process. When you spray it with moisture, make sure to add a root stimulator or some other product that will help the plant in its root production. The plants really will not dry out and they will be much stronger than you think. You then place the plants in to a growth regime of 18 hours light and 6 hours night, or continuous light, achieved by placing them under lights, in sunlight or under sodium lamps. Eventually after one or two weeks you will be able to see tiny white roots growing out of the stone wool blocks, if everything has proceeded smoothly.
The best way of learning how to make clones is to allow a plant to grow up outdoors in the Spring or Summer months. Thanks to its strong growth you will be able to take many cuttings during the season and make lots of practice attempts. In such a way, one single plant can deliver up hundreds of test clones. Do this, and it is guaranteed that by the end of the summer you will have the art of plant cloning firmly under your belt!
__________________
Check out my grow here.
Collecting Pollen
When should I harvest?
Water curing
Molasses
Should I trim my leaves?
bigger yeilds for your plants
Grow more females
All about stretching
Build a grow room closet
Hash & Hash oil, made easy
cool yr grow room
Odor removal machine
Plant Problems & Cures
How to set up a grow room
Posted by videoman40:
The first and most important step in making clones is to learn how to spot a female plant with extra special qualities. There is little point in making clones of inferior quality plants, since then you will end up with an inferior quality garden and who wants that? By keeping your standards high you will eventually be rewarded with a generously-yielding growing patch. It is also important in that since we can easily take cuttings, we can also very easily make clones of seed plants and by doing so determine whether these are male or female, because we can make these clones bloom.
A cutting is a side branch or a part of a branch of an existing plant. A good cutting is between 10 - 15 cm long and possesses several leaves. We cut the cutting off at an angle with a knife or razor blade between two leaf nodes.
After having cut our first clones, we have to remove the excess leaves. We make sure that we are left with leaves at the bottom on the lowest 2 cm of the cut clone. This is because the roots develop best at this point; on the wounds where leaves once were, roots most rapidly develop.
Especially when dealing with outdoor plants, it can be the case that the branches have developed a hardened stem. In order to accelerate the formation of roots we can scrape away a thin layer from the lower-most 2 cm with a knife. By doing so we can ensure that the root stimulator we are going to use can more easily penetrate the cutting and do its work.
There are many different sorts of root stimulator available that will help our clones take root. The most frequently used methods are those that involve dunking the ends of the cuttings into liquid root stimulator that has been diluted. After waiting ten seconds or so, the absorption by the clones should be complete. Or on the other hand, you could use the old-fashioned technique of just dipping the end of the cutting in cutting powder. The lower-most centimetres are covered with cutting powder, making sure that only the sides of the cutting are covered with powder and not the whole cutting, since this risks suffocating the clone. A thin layer of powder is sufficient; too much can be damaging. These days rooting hormones in gel form are also popular and they are getting better all the time. I use a combined method whereby I first dip the clone in liquid root stimulator and after, dip it in cutting powder too.
As the last step we have to put the clones into a medium, and one of the very best for letting clones take root in are cutting blocks made of stone wool. These blocks or plugs let lots of air in, which is just what the cuttings need for making roots quickly. We simply make a small hole in the block and place the cutting into this, without losing too much powder off it while doing so.
We have now arrived at the final stage, in which we will finally get the cuttings to try and develop roots. In order to speed up the process we can place the clones in a humidity dome. We can easily maintain a high humidity in this, and doing so is important to ensure the clones do not dry out in their first few days. The important factors during the making of clones are warmth and even more so, a warm undersoil. Root temperature is of enormous importance, since warmth stimulates the roots to develop much more rapidly. A warming mat will prove its usefulness. The second factor is air moisture content, and usually the problem of having too much moisture in the air. You have to try and see it from the point of view of a freshly cut clone, which from now on has to supply itself with its own moisture but in order to do so has to first develop its root system.
Only during the very first days do we have to support the clone with a high air moisture content, after which no more. Precisely by allowing the air moisture to fall, we force the plants to send out more roots. Should we not do this then the process will take longer. It so happens that a plant can extract moisture out of the air in order to survive and by doing so hang on for weeks without making any new roots. In the first few days we give the plant a chance to set the whole process in motion. Give it a good (spray) watering just once at the beginning, and after this give the plant no more spraying, as this will only serve to retard the whole process. When you spray it with moisture, make sure to add a root stimulator or some other product that will help the plant in its root production. The plants really will not dry out and they will be much stronger than you think. You then place the plants in to a growth regime of 18 hours light and 6 hours night, or continuous light, achieved by placing them under lights, in sunlight or under sodium lamps. Eventually after one or two weeks you will be able to see tiny white roots growing out of the stone wool blocks, if everything has proceeded smoothly.
The best way of learning how to make clones is to allow a plant to grow up outdoors in the Spring or Summer months. Thanks to its strong growth you will be able to take many cuttings during the season and make lots of practice attempts. In such a way, one single plant can deliver up hundreds of test clones. Do this, and it is guaranteed that by the end of the summer you will have the art of plant cloning firmly under your belt!
__________________
Check out my grow here.
Collecting Pollen
When should I harvest?
Water curing
Molasses
Should I trim my leaves?
bigger yeilds for your plants
Grow more females
All about stretching
Build a grow room closet
Hash & Hash oil, made easy
cool yr grow room
Odor removal machine
Plant Problems & Cures
How to set up a grow room
green_nobody
Well-Known Member
but i guess you ratherr into the cheap mens way
so this is a exalent example of water cloning posted be mogie. it works great for the part of cloning itself but it is a bit tricky later on to plant the clone into soil without damage to it.
Posted by mogie:
As easy as cloning is to the masses that use powder, liquid/gel rooting hormone, bubblers and soil, etc. There is an even less complex method of cloning that is so easy, it must have been around for decades, if not centuries. The only ingredients involved are water, light, and the cutting you would like to root. In the example I?m going to show, I?ve cut three different sizes of clone. The first with two leaves and a single growing tip (S). The next has four nodes, but still only a couple large leaves (M). The third is 6? tall, has seven nodes and several sets of good-sized leaves (L).
As with normal cloning, you immediately dip the cutting in the water for about 15 to 30 seconds, tweaking it to dislodge any air bubbles that may be present. But the biggest difference is, you won?t be removing the cutting from the water until it has roots big enough to support the foliage above. Make sure the cup, which contains the cutting, is opaque. This prevents the light from shining directly on the roots.
So far, I?ve mentioned the cuttings and the water, but the most important part is the light. I have made this method work 100% of the time simply by sitting my cuttings on a windowsill that receives no direct sunlight. In fact, slightly shaded would be even better. In the evenings (short days), I sit them on an end table over 7 feet from a ceiling mounted 100-watt incandescent bulb. At bedtime, I just turn off the lights like normal, and when I get up in the AM its back to the windowsill. During the longer daylight hours they can be left on the sill full time. Remember, no direct sunlight.
The picture shows my three cuttings in their water cups. M & L have barely an inch of water to sit in. Any more and it would cover one of the leaf stems. The smaller one stayed in the plastic because the stem was too short to sit in water and stay upright in the cup. Do what?s necessary to keep at least ½? of the stem in the water.
Notice the glass that diffuses light, an extra measure against too much light exposure.
The clones grew roots at far different speeds. S showed in seven days, with a small ¼? long root and another small protrusion.
By the time S?s roots reached this level of development (nine days), L was just putting out the first nubs that would be roots. M has shown no inclination of rooting at all. Searching for an answer, I changed the water in Ms cup, but I think it boils down too the thickness of the stem. Both M&L have the same size stem but L has far more foliage on top.
S is doing far better than the others (seen below) and M is finally starting to show.
M showed roots in 14 days and was planted on day 18.
This picture was taken just before transplant.
L showed roots on day 11 and was in soil at day 18.
This picture was taken just before transplant.
S showed roots at seven days and was in the soil at 15.
This picture was taken just before transplant.
Transplanting is as easy as it ever is. I use a pre-fertilized potting soil, mixed with 1/2 perlite. I like the clear cups as I can see how soon they can be removed from the humidity dome. Fill a 4 oz cup with soil mix and swirl a hole an inch deep in the top, insert the plants roots and cover.
DO NOT WATER!! Watering will actually delay the roots growth into the new medium. You want it almost dry below so they search for the moisture. Make whatever mix you use semi-moist before transplant.
The dome you see is a cheapo Styrofoam cooler available from any grocery store for $2-$3. Toss the lid and cover with saran wrap with a 1/2 dozen 1/4" holes in it. What you see in the picture is a spare piece of plexi I have. It sits off centre to provide some venting. Simply set an open jar of water inside and close. The jar itself will keep the humidity at around 75%. If you don?t like this, just spray a couple times a day with plain water.
L showed itself almost overnight.
All were in the 320-watt veg area in roughly three weeks from cutting to final transplant.
That?s it, the easiest cloning method there is. No spraying, no overheating, no drying out, no hormones, just plant, light and water. Following these instructions, I?ve had a 100% success rate (The one that died actually drank all her water and I forgot to refill!). Good luck!
so this is a exalent example of water cloning posted be mogie. it works great for the part of cloning itself but it is a bit tricky later on to plant the clone into soil without damage to it.
Posted by mogie:
As easy as cloning is to the masses that use powder, liquid/gel rooting hormone, bubblers and soil, etc. There is an even less complex method of cloning that is so easy, it must have been around for decades, if not centuries. The only ingredients involved are water, light, and the cutting you would like to root. In the example I?m going to show, I?ve cut three different sizes of clone. The first with two leaves and a single growing tip (S). The next has four nodes, but still only a couple large leaves (M). The third is 6? tall, has seven nodes and several sets of good-sized leaves (L).
As with normal cloning, you immediately dip the cutting in the water for about 15 to 30 seconds, tweaking it to dislodge any air bubbles that may be present. But the biggest difference is, you won?t be removing the cutting from the water until it has roots big enough to support the foliage above. Make sure the cup, which contains the cutting, is opaque. This prevents the light from shining directly on the roots.
So far, I?ve mentioned the cuttings and the water, but the most important part is the light. I have made this method work 100% of the time simply by sitting my cuttings on a windowsill that receives no direct sunlight. In fact, slightly shaded would be even better. In the evenings (short days), I sit them on an end table over 7 feet from a ceiling mounted 100-watt incandescent bulb. At bedtime, I just turn off the lights like normal, and when I get up in the AM its back to the windowsill. During the longer daylight hours they can be left on the sill full time. Remember, no direct sunlight.
The picture shows my three cuttings in their water cups. M & L have barely an inch of water to sit in. Any more and it would cover one of the leaf stems. The smaller one stayed in the plastic because the stem was too short to sit in water and stay upright in the cup. Do what?s necessary to keep at least ½? of the stem in the water.
Notice the glass that diffuses light, an extra measure against too much light exposure.
The clones grew roots at far different speeds. S showed in seven days, with a small ¼? long root and another small protrusion.
By the time S?s roots reached this level of development (nine days), L was just putting out the first nubs that would be roots. M has shown no inclination of rooting at all. Searching for an answer, I changed the water in Ms cup, but I think it boils down too the thickness of the stem. Both M&L have the same size stem but L has far more foliage on top.
S is doing far better than the others (seen below) and M is finally starting to show.
M showed roots in 14 days and was planted on day 18.
This picture was taken just before transplant.
L showed roots on day 11 and was in soil at day 18.
This picture was taken just before transplant.
S showed roots at seven days and was in the soil at 15.
This picture was taken just before transplant.
Transplanting is as easy as it ever is. I use a pre-fertilized potting soil, mixed with 1/2 perlite. I like the clear cups as I can see how soon they can be removed from the humidity dome. Fill a 4 oz cup with soil mix and swirl a hole an inch deep in the top, insert the plants roots and cover.
DO NOT WATER!! Watering will actually delay the roots growth into the new medium. You want it almost dry below so they search for the moisture. Make whatever mix you use semi-moist before transplant.
The dome you see is a cheapo Styrofoam cooler available from any grocery store for $2-$3. Toss the lid and cover with saran wrap with a 1/2 dozen 1/4" holes in it. What you see in the picture is a spare piece of plexi I have. It sits off centre to provide some venting. Simply set an open jar of water inside and close. The jar itself will keep the humidity at around 75%. If you don?t like this, just spray a couple times a day with plain water.
L showed itself almost overnight.
All were in the 320-watt veg area in roughly three weeks from cutting to final transplant.
That?s it, the easiest cloning method there is. No spraying, no overheating, no drying out, no hormones, just plant, light and water. Following these instructions, I?ve had a 100% success rate (The one that died actually drank all her water and I forgot to refill!). Good luck!
green_nobody
Well-Known Member
well with the rockwool it is quiet a though question since rockwool doesn't contain anything, so you my try a super high diluted solution after a few days. but really, it should hold more then traces of nutes! clones are quiet touchy on this one too!
wow thanks alot 2 very good cloning guides very much appreciated although i have 2 questions they may make me sound stupid and dumb but it aint my fault cloning is my weakest area i didnt fully understand this part of wording from the first guide: We make sure that we are left with leaves at the bottom on the lowest 2 cm of the cut clone. Also what exactly are nodes and internodes and arn't you meant to have an internode/node at the bottem of you cutt clone so as for roots to grow out from aswel as the stem please either help me with wording/pictures or both they dont have to be real advanced you could even construct a picture using mspaint to be real simple
THANKYOU HEAPS!!
THANKYOU HEAPS!!