Converting Metal Halide to High Pressure Sodium
- Thread starter Erb
- Start date
leafwrapper
Well-Known Member
Converting an HPS Ballast into a Switchable MH/HPS Ballast
============================================
Please note - this can only be done with an HPS Ballast. If you are not comfortable with basic electrical work and concepts then I do not recommend you do this. Please take appropriate precautions when doing this type of work and when testing your results.
HPS and MH Lights both use the same Autotransformer Ballasts, the only difference between the two lights, is the addition of an "Igniter" module to the HPS, to actually start the HPS bulb. Because of this you can easily and safely convert your HPS light to a Switchable light.
This takes about 30 minutes to do. You will need the following:
1. Pair of Wire Clippers (may not be needed, depends on light manufacturer)
2. Wire Twist Nuts (2, maybe 4)
3. Dual Pole, Single Throw switch from Home Depot (optional)
4. Approx. 2 feet (depending on ballast design) of #12 copper wire
-----------------------------
Details:
In the above pictures, you will note that an HPS has 3 components, and an MH has 2. The Autotransforming Ballast and the CAP are common to both types of Light assembly. The third piece that is only present in the HPS assembly, is the Igniter module.
Coming out of the Igniter there should be 3 wires, labeled X1LAMP, X2COM and X3 or something similar. If these are not labeled as such or similar, STOP! Your light is non-standard and unless you are a certified Electrician, you should consult one before continuing.
If you trace the X1 and X2 wires back, you will see X1 goes to a 3-wire connection between the Transformer and the Light Socket, and the X2 leads to a 3-wire connection also going between the Transformer and the Light Socket. These are the two leads you want to disconnect.
There are two ways to do this:
1st way: you can make it a semi-permanent conversion from HPS to MH, if you want to switch back, you have to open up your ballast again and reconnect the X1 and X2 leads.
2nd way: install a dual pole/single throw switch in X1 and X2, and you now have an on demand, switchable ballast.
Option 1:
1.Unplug the light! I recommend it having been unplugged for several hours before working on it.
2.Disconnect the X1 and X2 wires from the 3-wire connection spots by untwisting the wire nuts.
3.Retwist the wires back together, and re-cap with the wire nut as you do this.
4.Place one (1) new wire nut on the X1 lead coming out of the igniter to cap it so it does not short. Do the same with the X2 lead coming out of the igniter.
You’re done - your ballast will now run a same wattage MH bulb. To change back, reconnect the X1 and X2 leads coming out of the igniter to the respective X1 and X2 leads you disconnected them from.
Option 2:
1. Unplug the light!
2. Find a place to mount your switch. I used a pair of tin snips to cut a small 1"x1/2" hole in mine since the metal was thin and the switch just pushed into it. I do not recommend letting the switch hang out a hole or something. This is high voltage and that is inviting disaster.
3. After you have your switch mounted, cut your spare wire into two leads long enough to run from the switch to where the 3-wire connections are. ** NOTE ** Your spare wire should be the same gauge (thickness) as the wire that is already being used in the lights wiring.
4. Strip your ends and connect one end of each wire to each side of the same pole on your dual pole switch.
5. Locate the X1 lead from the Igniter and trace it back to the 3-wire connection.
6. Remove the wire nut and untwist the X1 lead from the other 2 wires.
7. Connect the X1 Igniter lead to one of the two remaining connection points on your switch.
8. Take the wire you attached to the same side of the opposite pole on your switch, and connect the other end of it to where you just took the X1 Igniter lead from, twist all three wires together.
9. Twist the wire nut onto these 3 wires to remake the 3-wire connection.
10. Do the same process with the X2 Igniter lead.
You’re done - close everything back up and you now have switchable ballast.
============================================
Please note - this can only be done with an HPS Ballast. If you are not comfortable with basic electrical work and concepts then I do not recommend you do this. Please take appropriate precautions when doing this type of work and when testing your results.
HPS and MH Lights both use the same Autotransformer Ballasts, the only difference between the two lights, is the addition of an "Igniter" module to the HPS, to actually start the HPS bulb. Because of this you can easily and safely convert your HPS light to a Switchable light.
This takes about 30 minutes to do. You will need the following:
1. Pair of Wire Clippers (may not be needed, depends on light manufacturer)
2. Wire Twist Nuts (2, maybe 4)
3. Dual Pole, Single Throw switch from Home Depot (optional)
4. Approx. 2 feet (depending on ballast design) of #12 copper wire
-----------------------------
Details:
In the above pictures, you will note that an HPS has 3 components, and an MH has 2. The Autotransforming Ballast and the CAP are common to both types of Light assembly. The third piece that is only present in the HPS assembly, is the Igniter module.
Coming out of the Igniter there should be 3 wires, labeled X1LAMP, X2COM and X3 or something similar. If these are not labeled as such or similar, STOP! Your light is non-standard and unless you are a certified Electrician, you should consult one before continuing.
If you trace the X1 and X2 wires back, you will see X1 goes to a 3-wire connection between the Transformer and the Light Socket, and the X2 leads to a 3-wire connection also going between the Transformer and the Light Socket. These are the two leads you want to disconnect.
There are two ways to do this:
1st way: you can make it a semi-permanent conversion from HPS to MH, if you want to switch back, you have to open up your ballast again and reconnect the X1 and X2 leads.
2nd way: install a dual pole/single throw switch in X1 and X2, and you now have an on demand, switchable ballast.
Option 1:
1.Unplug the light! I recommend it having been unplugged for several hours before working on it.
2.Disconnect the X1 and X2 wires from the 3-wire connection spots by untwisting the wire nuts.
3.Retwist the wires back together, and re-cap with the wire nut as you do this.
4.Place one (1) new wire nut on the X1 lead coming out of the igniter to cap it so it does not short. Do the same with the X2 lead coming out of the igniter.
You’re done - your ballast will now run a same wattage MH bulb. To change back, reconnect the X1 and X2 leads coming out of the igniter to the respective X1 and X2 leads you disconnected them from.
Option 2:
1. Unplug the light!
2. Find a place to mount your switch. I used a pair of tin snips to cut a small 1"x1/2" hole in mine since the metal was thin and the switch just pushed into it. I do not recommend letting the switch hang out a hole or something. This is high voltage and that is inviting disaster.
3. After you have your switch mounted, cut your spare wire into two leads long enough to run from the switch to where the 3-wire connections are. ** NOTE ** Your spare wire should be the same gauge (thickness) as the wire that is already being used in the lights wiring.
4. Strip your ends and connect one end of each wire to each side of the same pole on your dual pole switch.
5. Locate the X1 lead from the Igniter and trace it back to the 3-wire connection.
6. Remove the wire nut and untwist the X1 lead from the other 2 wires.
7. Connect the X1 Igniter lead to one of the two remaining connection points on your switch.
8. Take the wire you attached to the same side of the opposite pole on your switch, and connect the other end of it to where you just took the X1 Igniter lead from, twist all three wires together.
9. Twist the wire nut onto these 3 wires to remake the 3-wire connection.
10. Do the same process with the X2 Igniter lead.
You’re done - close everything back up and you now have switchable ballast.
chronik4lyfe
Well-Known Member
sounds like the average person would/could kill themselves attempting this, ive done basic electrical myself and nearly killed myself, if u charish ur life i suggest spending the oney to get a new ballast
cameron666
Well-Known Member
hi, i was going to buy 150w metal halide ballast, i understand that hps bulbs need an ignitor, so if i got my metal halide ballast and added an ignitor would this make it suitable for a HPS bulb of the same wattage...so
150w metal halide ballast + ignitor = Hps Ballast?
please let me know as this would save me some money
ThinkingGreen
Well-Known Member
I have a ballast that says it's universal. Yet, It doesn't burn HPS bulbs... Here's a link.
deoss69
Active Member
i know its an old post but ima say it any way you can only do the convert on a hps light and it has to be the same watt light convertion bulbs take some lumes away and it makes scence to just do it this way i have done a few of my nerw lights and have had no probs for over a year most companies the affer a ballest that does bolth mh and hps are just doing what he said to do just put a switch in place to get the ignighter to not come on and wala mh from hps and lots of pro grow ops know aobut this just never share trade secrets seem stoners are a very parinoid bunch also the chairman from the AN even talks about it in his movie on how to switch it . gl be careful
lightlyblazin
Member
Switchable Ballast wiring
I've had some success with installing a switch and an starter to several existing 1000w & 400w MH ballasts. It can be done as explained above using a DPST Switch. Above X3 is not mentioned. X3 on the starter is wired to a common marked X3 or the common (white wire) from the 120Vac wall outlet will do.
The way I did it was I installed a SPST Switch between X3 on the ignitor and the common. This was the way my switchable 1000W Sun Systems Ballast is setup. But there is no X3 on the old ballast.
OK I figured out how they did it. You can wire X3 of the Starter to a SPST switch. Then wire the other side of the switch to common (either marked X3 or you can use the common (white wire) the power (120vac) came in on. When you turn the switch ON it connects the commons and engages the starter. This works for me.
A bedroom light switch 120vac/15a could be used as a SPST or DPST switch. The HPS runs at 960W the MH is 1000W.
Most of the oil filled caps have resistors on them. If you upgrade the ¼ or ½ watt resistor to a 1 watt resistor with the same resistance value then the resistor will run cooler, last longer, and even might run quieter. You can also buy a 1watt potentiometer (a variable resistor knob)
within the range on your Capacitors resistor to replace your capacitors resistor. Using this potentiometer you can very carefully dial in the resistance value.
There was also a question of potential danger. When the HPS bulb fails could the Starter overheat from continuously trying to ignite a dead bulb causing excessive equipment damage or fire? There is a product available to prevent this if the bulb fails. But none of the units Ive seen professionally made switchable have these installed.
I've had some success with installing a switch and an starter to several existing 1000w & 400w MH ballasts. It can be done as explained above using a DPST Switch. Above X3 is not mentioned. X3 on the starter is wired to a common marked X3 or the common (white wire) from the 120Vac wall outlet will do.
The way I did it was I installed a SPST Switch between X3 on the ignitor and the common. This was the way my switchable 1000W Sun Systems Ballast is setup. But there is no X3 on the old ballast.
OK I figured out how they did it. You can wire X3 of the Starter to a SPST switch. Then wire the other side of the switch to common (either marked X3 or you can use the common (white wire) the power (120vac) came in on. When you turn the switch ON it connects the commons and engages the starter. This works for me.
A bedroom light switch 120vac/15a could be used as a SPST or DPST switch. The HPS runs at 960W the MH is 1000W.
Most of the oil filled caps have resistors on them. If you upgrade the ¼ or ½ watt resistor to a 1 watt resistor with the same resistance value then the resistor will run cooler, last longer, and even might run quieter. You can also buy a 1watt potentiometer (a variable resistor knob)
within the range on your Capacitors resistor to replace your capacitors resistor. Using this potentiometer you can very carefully dial in the resistance value.
There was also a question of potential danger. When the HPS bulb fails could the Starter overheat from continuously trying to ignite a dead bulb causing excessive equipment damage or fire? There is a product available to prevent this if the bulb fails. But none of the units Ive seen professionally made switchable have these installed.
anothertoker
Member
Above is a diagram of my ballast and my transformer's specs.
I read one of your posts about making a switchable MH-HPS ballast. I am currently operating a 250 W MH Bulb and desperately need to switch over to my 250 HPS bulb. I have an Ignitor (XG-02) "for use with specified HPS 200-400W lamp ballasts" and a switch like you said. I was given this ballast already constructed so I didn't want to mess around with the wiring because it worked, but the wiring seems odd for use with an ignitor. On my diagram I label where I connected the Red, White, and Blue of the ignitor into the circuit but I have had no result. When my ignitor is switched out of the circuit the ballast makes a regular low humming sound, and when I flip the ignitor into the circuit i hear a higher buzz that usually goes away as the MH bulb flicks on. I ALSO connected the blue wire to the hot-120V black wire from the wall with no result.
I am competent with electronics but I don't have the experience necessary to troubleshoot this ballast.
Could you please help me out? give me a hint or two why my HPS bulb won't light up?
Thank you
anothertoker
stanley420@live.com
Active Member
i need help with same issue, Please help. I could really use a hand. Ive been looking into switching my MH 400w to HPS 400w. The problem im running into is i have no wire to plug my 3x from igniter into. I seen on another forum i could plug it into the 120v common but this didnt work for me. Light never starts up. Just hums. The long side of my transformer only has 2 wires one 120v (Blue with yellow stipe) and one to capacitor (Red) Please help
MrPaperTowelMan
Member
I'd just personally buy a conversion bulb or a switchable ballast (about $150).
WReynolds111
Member
can i get a list of all the colors wires your ballast uses such as the ones you hooked red white and blue up to...
http://www.venturelighting.com/BallastHTMLDocuments/wiring_diagrams-Add.html
MH ballast wireing sechematics with colors... (try matching the mh ballast to it)
Ganjagreat91
Active Member
I have 2 1000w mh ballasts want to make switchable ne one know a good deal on 1000 hps ignitor?
igrowpot87
Active Member
Is this good to do? I Have 3 hps I'd love to make switchable