Degster
Member
I am currently just setting up my new grow space because of a recent move. I have so much more room that I opted for two 4x8 tray tables because I wanted to limit the amount of runoff and keep a tidy area. Surprisingly I found very little information on DIY grow tables and found a lot of write ups on PVC pipe tables, expensive comparison table listings and time consuming steel / welded tables.
So.... I have decided to post a thread of how to build a simple, sturdy, yet affordable table made from wood. All the materials can be purchased at your local Home Depot for under $40 per table. When you compare that to the hydro store bought option of $300+ per table, that is a huge savings!
Now, I also have to mention I had all the hardware such as nails and clamps previously, so those weren't purchased. I also made everything with a hand saw due to noise constraints and had what I really needed cut at Home Depot itself. Even bribed the guy with a six pack to make some "illegal" cuts.
Material List: (I made two tables, so I will divide it all by two)
2 - 10 ft 2 x4s
2 - 10 ft 1 inch x 3 inch boards (5x8 inch thick)
1 - 8 ft 2 x 4s
1 - 8 ft 3.5 inch x 3.5 inch pine post
4 ft x 8 ft (could be smaller) 5/8inch thick plywood.
4 - Industrial casters (wheels)
You will also need wood screws, drill and clamps. Clamps make a huge difference.
I should let you know the "illegal" cuts I had made were getting the guy to cut the 6ft post into 8 inch blocks and getting him to cut the plywood into 6 inch wide 4 foot slats. Yes I know, some how he was down to make them. It was a Sunday and I think he was board as hell.
I opted for 8 inch posts because I want my table as low to the ground as possible but also still able to use gravity to drain runoff. Casters will also raise the bed a few inches, as well as the thickness of the tray.
First...
Measure and cut your 10ft 2x4s to 8ft' 2 inch lengths. ( I opted for this length just to make sure I had the tray covered and with some slight wiggle room on either end).
Second...
Measure out the thickness of your posts (3.5 x 3.5 inch) x 2 = total of 7 inches. Cut your 1x3s to 8ft 2 inch lengths - those 7 inches. The result is a grand total of 7ft' 7 inches.
Use your clamps to fasten the 1x3 on the 2x4 making sure the bottoms are flush and that each post will fit into it's 3.5 inch space. Clamp and screw tight. You will have 3.5 inches on each side and a 1 inch rabbit on the top where your slats will go.
Third...
Take your 8 inch posts and clamp them tight making sure that it's top is flush with the top edge of the 1x3. Screw and tighten.
Fourth...
Repeat for opposing wall.
Fifth...
Take your 8 ft 2x4s and subtract the width of the two 1x3s. You will gets 1 1/4 inches. Subtract 4ft (tray width) - 1 1/4 inches. The result is 3ft' 10"3/4inch. You will place these on the inside of the posts to make the width a pretty exact 4 ft. I opted to mount on the inside of the beams because that way the drainage holes will be clear. The posts also serve as supports. Clamp and screw fastening your structure together.
6th...
Take the left over 2x4 pieces from the initial 10ft and 8 ft boards and make 4 - 8inch + 1/8th inch lengths. Attach these lengths to the center bottom of each 4 ft plywood plank with two offset screws. Be careful not to use too big of screws or in the same line because you will split the plywood. Set those planks even distances apart, resting on the top edge of the 1x3s. Fasten if need be.
7th... Optional
Install casters on bottom of posts.
Thoughts: You could also mount a 1 inch thick board on the bottom of the back posts to give a slight angle for run-off. OR... use larger casters in the back and smaller ones in the front.
The 4 x 8 tray table will sit perfectly well on top and will be close enough to the ground while still allowing for drainage. You could also, I probably will, screw a block in front of the table for any unwanted slide. Not that there really would be any but don't want to take chances when all the girls are on the table with nutrients.
There you have it!!! Bunch of money saved and a brand new table.
So.... I have decided to post a thread of how to build a simple, sturdy, yet affordable table made from wood. All the materials can be purchased at your local Home Depot for under $40 per table. When you compare that to the hydro store bought option of $300+ per table, that is a huge savings!
Now, I also have to mention I had all the hardware such as nails and clamps previously, so those weren't purchased. I also made everything with a hand saw due to noise constraints and had what I really needed cut at Home Depot itself. Even bribed the guy with a six pack to make some "illegal" cuts.
Material List: (I made two tables, so I will divide it all by two)
2 - 10 ft 2 x4s
2 - 10 ft 1 inch x 3 inch boards (5x8 inch thick)
1 - 8 ft 2 x 4s
1 - 8 ft 3.5 inch x 3.5 inch pine post
4 ft x 8 ft (could be smaller) 5/8inch thick plywood.
4 - Industrial casters (wheels)
You will also need wood screws, drill and clamps. Clamps make a huge difference.
I should let you know the "illegal" cuts I had made were getting the guy to cut the 6ft post into 8 inch blocks and getting him to cut the plywood into 6 inch wide 4 foot slats. Yes I know, some how he was down to make them. It was a Sunday and I think he was board as hell.
I opted for 8 inch posts because I want my table as low to the ground as possible but also still able to use gravity to drain runoff. Casters will also raise the bed a few inches, as well as the thickness of the tray.
First...
Measure and cut your 10ft 2x4s to 8ft' 2 inch lengths. ( I opted for this length just to make sure I had the tray covered and with some slight wiggle room on either end).
Second...
Measure out the thickness of your posts (3.5 x 3.5 inch) x 2 = total of 7 inches. Cut your 1x3s to 8ft 2 inch lengths - those 7 inches. The result is a grand total of 7ft' 7 inches.
Use your clamps to fasten the 1x3 on the 2x4 making sure the bottoms are flush and that each post will fit into it's 3.5 inch space. Clamp and screw tight. You will have 3.5 inches on each side and a 1 inch rabbit on the top where your slats will go.
Third...
Take your 8 inch posts and clamp them tight making sure that it's top is flush with the top edge of the 1x3. Screw and tighten.
Fourth...
Repeat for opposing wall.
Fifth...
Take your 8 ft 2x4s and subtract the width of the two 1x3s. You will gets 1 1/4 inches. Subtract 4ft (tray width) - 1 1/4 inches. The result is 3ft' 10"3/4inch. You will place these on the inside of the posts to make the width a pretty exact 4 ft. I opted to mount on the inside of the beams because that way the drainage holes will be clear. The posts also serve as supports. Clamp and screw fastening your structure together.
6th...
Take the left over 2x4 pieces from the initial 10ft and 8 ft boards and make 4 - 8inch + 1/8th inch lengths. Attach these lengths to the center bottom of each 4 ft plywood plank with two offset screws. Be careful not to use too big of screws or in the same line because you will split the plywood. Set those planks even distances apart, resting on the top edge of the 1x3s. Fasten if need be.
7th... Optional
Install casters on bottom of posts.
Thoughts: You could also mount a 1 inch thick board on the bottom of the back posts to give a slight angle for run-off. OR... use larger casters in the back and smaller ones in the front.
The 4 x 8 tray table will sit perfectly well on top and will be close enough to the ground while still allowing for drainage. You could also, I probably will, screw a block in front of the table for any unwanted slide. Not that there really would be any but don't want to take chances when all the girls are on the table with nutrients.
There you have it!!! Bunch of money saved and a brand new table.
