hi my breakers keep blowin i think the 1500w ciramic heater is too much and the problem is that i dont have a acces to breaker panel where i live(rented house and the box is in the garage wich i cant go in) so i hav to call the owner everytime they blow and its gettin suspicious..so i need some kind of box that will break befor brreaker the main panel will this thing connected on the stove outlet works? any other idea is welcome too thank you
Electrical questions
- Thread starter gtlimited
- Start date
born2killspam
Well-Known Member
Thing is, a 1500W heater has no business sharing a breaker with anything else, its a full load on its own.. At minimum you're going to need to run a line from another breaker's outlet into your area, and you'd need to keep track of the loads you plug into that breaker outside the grow-room or dedicate it entirely..
And even that is a slack-ass approach.. It really is best to add another dedicated line..
A breaker tripping is like feeling pain.. If you ignore it, or try to work around it, you're setting yourself up for major problems..
And even that is a slack-ass approach.. It really is best to add another dedicated line..
A breaker tripping is like feeling pain.. If you ignore it, or try to work around it, you're setting yourself up for major problems..
some stoves can use from 3000 to 8000watts so wouldnt this transfer box conecteted on that plug work for me?
these are the specs of the transfer box
MODEL DESCRIPTION Pro/Tran
MAX. GENERATOR RUNNING WATTS 12500
PHASE Single
MAX. SINGLE-POLE CIRCUITS 10
MAX. DOUBLE-POLE CIRCUITS 5
MAX. COMBINED LOAD @ 125 VAC 100
MAX. COMBINED LOAD @ 250 VAC 50
15 AMP SINGLE POLE CIRCUIT BREAKERS 6
20 AMP SINGLE POLE CIRCUIT BREAKERS 4
these are the specs of the transfer box
MODEL DESCRIPTION Pro/Tran
MAX. GENERATOR RUNNING WATTS 12500
PHASE Single
MAX. SINGLE-POLE CIRCUITS 10
MAX. DOUBLE-POLE CIRCUITS 5
MAX. COMBINED LOAD @ 125 VAC 100
MAX. COMBINED LOAD @ 250 VAC 50
15 AMP SINGLE POLE CIRCUIT BREAKERS 6
20 AMP SINGLE POLE CIRCUIT BREAKERS 4
born2killspam
Well-Known Member
Sorry, I must have assumed your picture was a signature, because I missed your concept.. Stoves are usually on 50A breakers, so yea that box would trip first..
Still though you should be focusing on load management.. I can understand the convenience of this (except for losing a kitchen stove), but it shouldn't be the complete solution..
Still though you should be focusing on load management.. I can understand the convenience of this (except for losing a kitchen stove), but it shouldn't be the complete solution..
latinrascal
Well-Known Member
Ok if i got this correct you want to use the power from your stove outlet to power your room?
If yes then yes you could use that box if you already have it (it is made for a generator and is very expensive) if you dont already have it you can make one for less money but you would have to do some rewiring on the electrical outlet get a power transfer switch, or just plug and unplug as needed. Basicly you go to HD or Lowes and get a small curcuit box with no more then 40 amp so it will trip before the main and this is assuming the main is 50amps. as for power coming in you can get a heavy duty dryer/stove plug whichever you ae using where this will be going. Now you have 240 going to a new box when pluged in and you can add extra 120v outlets on this thing as well as long as it is less then 40amps draw (actually it is recommend only 75% draw off max amps.)
If yes then yes you could use that box if you already have it (it is made for a generator and is very expensive) if you dont already have it you can make one for less money but you would have to do some rewiring on the electrical outlet get a power transfer switch, or just plug and unplug as needed. Basicly you go to HD or Lowes and get a small curcuit box with no more then 40 amp so it will trip before the main and this is assuming the main is 50amps. as for power coming in you can get a heavy duty dryer/stove plug whichever you ae using where this will be going. Now you have 240 going to a new box when pluged in and you can add extra 120v outlets on this thing as well as long as it is less then 40amps draw (actually it is recommend only 75% draw off max amps.)
i dont hav the box already but im not good with wires.amps,volts and all that thatys why buyin the box prewired is probly the best way to go for me
and im not sure if the stove is on a 50amp brreaker since i dont hav access and cant ask witouth being too suspicious so what wouldd be the minimum? 40amp? 30?
i really dont wanna break another time the breaker so i gotta fix this right the first time
so should i buy the 30amp transfer box instead to be safe?
and im not sure if the stove is on a 50amp brreaker since i dont hav access and cant ask witouth being too suspicious so what wouldd be the minimum? 40amp? 30?
i really dont wanna break another time the breaker so i gotta fix this right the first time
so should i buy the 30amp transfer box instead to be safe?
mannurse801
Well-Known Member
Just run an extention cord from another outlet on a different breaker to the room, end of problem...
What I do is when lights are on, heater switches off 15 minuts before hand. When lights go off, heater comes on 15 minuts after. That way, you will never be drawing both at the same time!
What I do is when lights are on, heater switches off 15 minuts before hand. When lights go off, heater comes on 15 minuts after. That way, you will never be drawing both at the same time!
i use led lights for a total of 1200w
electric bill should be okay
i need a heater cauz winter in canada is very cold and the room is in the basement
born2killspam
Well-Known Member
I'm not a stickler for criticizing growing in a rental, but hydgrow really makes a good point considering the insane rewiring.. Unless you can hide all that behind a disconnected stove, how do you explain it??
And how big is your grow if its blowing what can easily handle 10kW?! Hydro consumption alone should be a major concern..
Also, how do you intend to install this (pre-wired or not) without access to shut off the breaker?? If you aren't comfortable wiring, then you really have no business doing this kind of thing at all, let alone on a live circuit.. Wait, I guess you could blow it again, but regardless.. If a fire should break out (for any reason) your wiring will not be approved for insurance purposes, and you would likely find yourself personally liable..
I do see why you're paranoid of it tripping, stove breakers have no reason to trip unless the stove/wiring is flawed, and it sounds like you've got ALOT to lose!
And how big is your grow if its blowing what can easily handle 10kW?! Hydro consumption alone should be a major concern..
Also, how do you intend to install this (pre-wired or not) without access to shut off the breaker?? If you aren't comfortable wiring, then you really have no business doing this kind of thing at all, let alone on a live circuit.. Wait, I guess you could blow it again, but regardless.. If a fire should break out (for any reason) your wiring will not be approved for insurance purposes, and you would likely find yourself personally liable..
I do see why you're paranoid of it tripping, stove breakers have no reason to trip unless the stove/wiring is flawed, and it sounds like you've got ALOT to lose!
mannurse801
Well-Known Member
Again, don't mess with the wiring, just use an extention cord. DO not tap into the stove wiring, different wire. 240V??? You will fry something!!!!!!!!!
If you try and run 120V off of that you will hit huge resistance and blow up whatever you are plugging in.
If you try and run 120V off of that you will hit huge resistance and blow up whatever you are plugging in.
i used my bedroom plugs when breaker jumped
i did not conect anything on the stove yet
mannurse801
Well-Known Member
Stoves are usually not 120 V, they use different voltage to decrease ampage. Like a dryer, same thing. Increase the voltage, ampage will go down.
Roseman
Elite Rolling Society
ask this guy, he is the resident electrician:
https://www.rollitup.org/grow-room-design-setup/74051-electrical-ques-if-i-can.html
https://www.rollitup.org/grow-room-design-setup/74051-electrical-ques-if-i-can.html
born2killspam
Well-Known Member
He could run the ballasts on 240, and conserve his bedroom breaker for 120V loads, but the heater would still be an issue if he only has 15A in the bedroom and other appliances.. Its possible to wire 120V from a stove outlet though too..
Still though, its not something I'd do in a rental.. I'd distribute the load across multiple household breakers by drilling extension cords through walls below baseboard level..
I'd also find a way to sneak into the garage when I needed to access the panel.. If its not law that everybody have access to their panel, then it should be..
Still though, its not something I'd do in a rental.. I'd distribute the load across multiple household breakers by drilling extension cords through walls below baseboard level..
I'd also find a way to sneak into the garage when I needed to access the panel.. If its not law that everybody have access to their panel, then it should be..
M4A1
Well-Known Member
I though there was some law about having access to your panel if your renting. What if there was some emergency and you needed to get to that panel to shut the power down, but it's locked up somewhere. You should have access to this panel.
ETA: I guess it would all depend on the situation.
Source of this info http://lancaster.ne.gov/CITY/attorn/lmc/ti23/ch2310.pdf
17049 §22; August 19, 1996: Ord. 16384 §19; June 14, 1993).
ETA: I guess it would all depend on the situation.
Source of this info http://lancaster.ne.gov/CITY/attorn/lmc/ti23/ch2310.pdf
240.24. Location in or on Premises.
(a) Readily Accessible. Overcurrent devices shall be
readily accessible unless one of the following applies:
1: For busways as provided in Section 364.12.
2: For supplementary overcurrent protection as described in Section 240.10.
3: For overcurrent devices as described in Sections 225.40 and 230.92.
4: Overcurrent devices installed adjacent to motors, appliances, or other equipment that they
supply shall be permitted to be accessible by portable means.
(b) Occupant to Have Ready Access. Each occupant shall have ready access to all overcurrent
devices protecting the conductors supplying that occupancy.
EXCEPTION (1): In a multiple-occupancy building where electric service and electrical
maintenance are provided by the building management and where these are under continuous building
management supervision, the service overcurrent devices and feeder overcurrent devices supplying more
than one occupancy shall be permitted to be accessible to authorized management personnel only.
EXCEPTION (2): For guest rooms of hotels and motels that are intended for transient
occupancy and that are under continuous building management supervision, the overcurrent devices shall
be permitted to be accessible to authorized management personnel only.
(c) Not Exposed to Physical Damage. Overcurrent devices shall be located where they will not
be exposed to physical damage.
(d) Not in Vicinity of Easily Ignitible Material. Overcurrent devices shall not be located in the
vicinity of easily ignitible material such as in clothes closets. (Ord. 17521 § 18; July 6, 1999: prior Ord.
readily accessible unless one of the following applies:
1: For busways as provided in Section 364.12.
2: For supplementary overcurrent protection as described in Section 240.10.
3: For overcurrent devices as described in Sections 225.40 and 230.92.
4: Overcurrent devices installed adjacent to motors, appliances, or other equipment that they
supply shall be permitted to be accessible by portable means.
(b) Occupant to Have Ready Access. Each occupant shall have ready access to all overcurrent
devices protecting the conductors supplying that occupancy.
EXCEPTION (1): In a multiple-occupancy building where electric service and electrical
maintenance are provided by the building management and where these are under continuous building
management supervision, the service overcurrent devices and feeder overcurrent devices supplying more
than one occupancy shall be permitted to be accessible to authorized management personnel only.
EXCEPTION (2): For guest rooms of hotels and motels that are intended for transient
occupancy and that are under continuous building management supervision, the overcurrent devices shall
be permitted to be accessible to authorized management personnel only.
(c) Not Exposed to Physical Damage. Overcurrent devices shall be located where they will not
be exposed to physical damage.
(d) Not in Vicinity of Easily Ignitible Material. Overcurrent devices shall not be located in the
vicinity of easily ignitible material such as in clothes closets. (Ord. 17521 § 18; July 6, 1999: prior Ord.
17049 §22; August 19, 1996: Ord. 16384 §19; June 14, 1993).
born2killspam
Well-Known Member
See that just makes sense..
