EMERGENCY! Nute burn on 3 week old plants?

Looking through the "sticky" threads, i'm starting to think what my probelm is is nute burn. Basically, the first two little leaves on the first node of all of my plants are starting to yellow from the tip inward.

the last time I watered them (sunday morning), I mixed with the nutrients (which I always mix a bit under the recommended amount of nutes). the watering before that was also mixed with nutrients and was a week before at least. I don't think over watering is the problem, and i have a hard time believing it's nute burn, but that's what it looks like. the yellowing started the day before I last watered them.

One of them is especially bad, where those leaves are starting to brown and shrivel, and the yellow coloration is starting to appear on the next leaves up from that. im gonna try flushing them out with water. Any other ideas? thanks

EDIT: so I have the pic up, and this is the worst case i have. while this is a bad photo with a bad camera, you can still see the little leaf colored tan. It's easier to see in person how the leaf is pretty dry and doesnt look as good as it does in the photo in general. Also, you can see where the bottom left leaf has some yellow coloration on the edge (it's more noticeable in person as well). these plants have been doing rather well up until this point, becoming very green, getting leafier by the day, and as this is in a clear cup, I can clearly see a nice root system that is visible on the edge of the cups, so it has been fairly surprising to see this problem happen. Thanks again for the help
 

Attachments

reading into it more, i can see how this also might be a magnesium deficiency. Plants are watered now, i guess i will have to wait and see.
 

Oldgrowth

Well-Known Member
you just dont need to feed this young. plenty of nutirents in potting soil
3 weekold? i have 8 day seedling now three times this size and have not fed at all
 
yea cuz dnt feed no nutes no more wait prolly till there closer to a foot 10 inches maybe just when its healthy and u feel right its gonna suck if u lose them leaves
 

Medi 1

Well-Known Member
on average we wait 3 weeks to begin food. and them little bottom leaves ( cotyledons) will yellow. that is when i begin foods. from what i see its pH. with it not needing food yet it wont take it in so the pH drops and causes the burning cause now it cant even get the food in the medium....lack of food burns not to much. to much but its the pH that dropped so technicaly its lack of food.
also the roots dont like the light so if the cup is clear that effects them to.

whats the pH of waters or foods.
 
on average we wait 3 weeks to begin food. and them little bottom leaves ( cotyledons) will yellow. that is when i begin foods. from what i see its pH. with it not needing food yet it wont take it in so the pH drops and causes the burning cause now it cant even get the food in the medium....lack of food burns not to much. to much but its the pH that dropped so technicaly its lack of food.
also the roots dont like the light so if the cup is clear that effects them to.

whats the pH of waters or foods.
I will have to cover up the sides of those cups then. The reason i was giving it nutes is because the soil is organic so it has little to no nutes to begin with, so they needed some. I suppose one watering with nutes would have put nutes into the soil enough to where i wouldn't need more though.

I have no idea what the pH is, I don't have anything to measure that and I dont have any info on that from the miracle gro bottle
 

Medi 1

Well-Known Member
oh man. MG theres one reason. and organic dont mean no food. means its organic is all. and no pH is why your all bunged up then. my want to concider tossing the tioxic mg and get real nutes. especialy if your tryin to run organic soils....and if its mgg so called organic soil...its not. all mg has in its foods is N/P/K no other ellements that we do need.
 
so what your saying is i need to pull some money out of my ass and pay up the rear for my plants to be healthy? Unfortunately I think i might have to; today, even after flushing the hell out of the plants (without being too stressing) they looked worse..

If I bought a pH measurer, what are some ways I could control the pH of my soil (water?) without buying those nutes?
 

Medi 1

Well-Known Member
ya with shit soil n nutes they have time release so now each time you water it releases more nutes and dose worse damage.
using the pH pen is how you control the pH. if it dont go in at right level then the nutes just sit and will pull pH down.

can get cheepo pens for under 50 bucks
 

Medi 1

Well-Known Member
ley it dry all the way up. then set pH to 6.3 and run water till the pH as the run off comes above 6.3 ish. the new soil is usulay set to 6.8 so the lime tries to bring it there and keep it there. it wont be high pH i doubt, almost always drops.
need to make sure it dries each time in between water/food before hititng again or will happen again. make sure to get about 10% run off or it will also drop again...when you feed or water. njot sao imprortnt on food days but make sure to get enough on water days to wash out unused foods. cover then cups for the light to. make sure hioles in bottom for the run off. dont be shy with holes either. this soil is loaded with nutes so no food for a bit.
then after its all better and pH is back up. always use 6.3 fpr water or foods. dont move the pH to adjust the medium. may cause pH imballance
 
Top