growing outside for the first time.Need Advice Please.

Okay First Let me say thanks in advance.I do have Knowledge on inside growing.I just got 3 inside Plants HArvested today.So i am gone rite now.But anyway today my outside seeds came a week ago.Hawian skunk and Silver HAze for Inside.and I got Some Purple Haze cross bred so I can go outside them with no problem and My favorite weed Northen lights feminshed.I am really Happy Because MY northern Light Plant is almost dry(hells Yay).anway I got Permission to grow on my Friend farm.No cops or anything really small town.so i got nothing to worry.Anyway i was wondering.this is the very first time I am gonna grow outside.Now do I just walk and throw the seeds in the field and basically say see you when your ready for Harvest? I live in wisconsin so we get plenty of rain.His field is fenced so i don't gotta worry about animals.Any advice would Be nice Please.what's the Best Time to plant them?

P.S I have 200 seeds for outside including my friend seed on top of that.

it would be better to start your seeds indoors first to get them started for a few weeks before transplanting them outside.

kingding2385 said:

it would be better to start your seeds indoors first to get them started for a few weeks before transplanting them outside.

Click to expand...

you want to plant them in the spring but it all about if they was started indoors first or not and you want to care for them like you do indoors if it rains alot you might not have to water as much but you want to add nutes. like you do indoor you could plant in 5 gallon bucket outdoor with good soil and grow monsters outdoors but you will have to battle bugs and small animals so it's good to check on them hit'em with neem oil to help to keep bugs off and fert'em and let the best light you can have make them grow

diddystyles72 said:

you want to plant them in the spring but it all about if they was started indoors first or not and you want to care for them like you do indoors if it rains alot you might not have to water as much but you want to add nutes. like you do indoor you could plant in 5 gallon bucket outdoor with good soil and grow monsters outdoors but you will have to battle bugs and small animals so it's good to check on them hit'em with neem oil to help to keep bugs off and fert'em and let the best light you can have make them grow

Click to expand...

plus if your growing alot space them out a little here a little there maybe mix some corn in or other big fast growing plants so it won't be noticed from air

Gday big fella.... nice you got a farm!..... how many are you planning to grow ?? 200+.......
Dude you would have to be out there full time ! lol
i have GROWN for yrs both indoor and out ....but in australia...... THIS YEARS OUT DOORS are biger than ever! 3 1/2 ft buds multi crown...
IM GETTIN MARRIED IN WISCONSIN IN AUGUST.... ( i married a yankie! milwake girl)
Anyways.... i think we need to hook up so you can hook me up for the 'weeding' !
lol...JK....

here is missis big shes 7ft now! this was taken a few weeks ago ! much fatter now !



but thats a serious a farm...setup !

HERES WHAT/HAS WORKED FOR US....

Get - 64LTR plastic bins, put holes in bottom & and line it with rocks/pebble for drainage, the hieght keeps SEEDELINGS off the ground, & you can move them around !.... and they will probably not max out a 64ltr bin (root bound) depending if your good or not...lol
--------------------------------------------------------------

You should be: Composting now .....essential to save big bucks ...
I use a basic mushroom compost; wheat straw, horse & chicken manure and gypsum (calcium sulfate) with hydrated lime, pot ash. organic soil, wormcastings, mixed with coco fiber....
There are a variety of optional ingredients that may be added. A brief outline of some materials used in making composts follows:
Straw:
serves as a carbon source (carbohydrate) source wheat - considered the best - contains xylan oat, barley - break down more rapidly than wheat rye - breaks down slower than wheat also corn cobs, oak and beech leaves, etc.
Other Carbohydrate Sources:
Rice straw, molasses, brewer's grains, cottonseed meal (provides the fatty acid - linoleic acid -which is reported to stimulate yields.)
Manures:
nitrogen source, provides organisms essential to composting horse - most commonly used, fresher the better poultry - higher in nitrogen and phosphorous than horse, not so rich in potash (provided in wheat straw), faster and hotter than horse, use dry pig and sheep - must be used before they become sticky - used partly dry
Other Nitrogen Sources:
Blood meal (dried blood), bone meal urea, ammonium sulfate ((NH4)2SO4) Gypsum: calcium sulfate (CaSO4) - helps to prevent the loss of nitrogen (from the breakdown of proteins during the act of composting) by chelating the ammonia
Optional Mineral Sources:
Superphosphate; is said to promote vigorous flowering growth, but an excess may make the beds too acid too soon which depreciate the crop. It should not be used if there are a lot of droppings that r fresh) in the compost.
potash; used in synthetic composts.
Activators; compost "activators" can be obtained from nursery and garden stores and assures the presence of the organism essential to composting.
The following recipes create about one half ton of compost. One half ton of compost will provide enough compost for about 60 square feet of beds (surface area). At least one quart of grain spawn per 15 square feet of bed surface should be used.
Sample MY Compost Recipes:
I do this in winter every year then additives are introduced to pile.
I have not got one at moment ....(had to move house) But have strated a new pile this week!

5 bales wheat straw,
half a pickup (half ton) horse manure,
1/2 tonne mushroom compost (used )
30 lbs. gypsum,
4 lbs. activator,
90 lbs. chicken manure,
40 lbs. Blood & bone meal

This is what I do to prep!
To prepare compost, the straw must be soaked for several days until it just about, but not quite, squeezes water out in your hands. The compost pile is then built by stacking alternating layers of straw, activator, manure and gypsum until all the materials are used up. The stack should be 4-6 feet high.
In about 48 hours the heap will begin to generate heat and will sink somewhat in height. By the fourth to sixth day the temperature in the interior of the pile should reach 160°F (71°C). Temperatures of up to 160°F are due to thermophilic organisms. Temperatures over 170°F are due to chemical bonds being broken as well as other chemical reactions. Temperatures over 160°F are undesirable.
-----------------------------------------------------------------

HERE IS WHAT I WOULD USE FOR FLOWER NUTES ON LARGE SCALE FARM SITE ! 200+ plants



Considering buying that ! will save about $100 a liter ! for my rock juice which is around $150 a liter !
DESCRIPTION:
Crop Care CYCOCEL® 77A

ACTIVE CONSTITUENT: 77 g/L CHLORMEQUAT
present as CHLORMEQUAT CHLORIDE
5-nitroguaiacol
Compound Sodium nitrophenolate
Sodium 5-nitroguaiacolate
Sodium para-nitrophenolate
DA-6
Sodium a-naphthaleneacitic acid
Sodium 2,4-dinitrophenolate
3'5'-Sodium nucleic acid
Compound potassium nitrophenolate
3-indolebutyric acid(IBA)
Laurocapram
Thiazone
Cyhalothrin-lambda(Cyhalothrin)

CYCOCEL 77A is a growth regulator which promotes flower formation and increases the berry set and yield of wine grapes and increase setting of currants.

Recommended Uses To increase the berry set and yield of wine grapes and increase setting of currants
.Advantages Increases the number of berries per bunch. Improves skin to total fruit ratio.
Benefits Improved colour of red wines. Increases yield.
Mode of Action CYCOCEL 77A is a growth regulator which inhibits cell elongation, hence shorthening and strengthening the stem and producing a sturdier plant. Also, influences the developmental cycle, leding to increased flowering and harvest.
Chemical Group PGR
General InstructionsMixing
Thoroughly mix the product with hard or soft water at the rates shown, then add wetter.
The product should be applied only to vigorous vines growing under good conditions and capable of carrying an increased crop.
This applies particularly to Muscat Gordo Blanco. As many factors affect yield of grapes, the use of CYCOCEL 77A may not always result in increased fruit production.

Compatibility
Do NOT mix the product with other chemicals except nonionic wetter, unless compatibility has been tested.

Company DetailsCROP CARE
Unit 15/16 Metroplex Avenue
Murarrie QLD 4172
Tel : 07 3909 2000
Fax : 07 3909 2010
Web : www.cropcare.com.au


INT trade site- with raw PGR`s
http://www.tradeindia.com/selloffer/...-chloride.html


Look at this research LONG read...but very formal !

http://www.icar.org.in/icar2001.pdf​

&& large scale soil prep & feed I WOULD USE:
SOIL prep should be started now... lime, dolimite, mg sulphate, trace, with a seasol or charli carp type drench...
---------------------------------------------------------
Viggi Agro Products

And i would strat them under fluro grow lights untill large enough to transplant out side !

eza82 said:

And i would strat them under fluro grow lights untill large enough to transplant out side !

Click to expand...

nice buds what is any info you can give a indoor grow in soil

diddystyles72 said:

nice buds what is any info you can give a indoor grow in soil

Click to expand...

I only use RW and coco fiber ....

best ADIVCE I EVER GOT !::

"FEED THE SOIL NOT THE PLANT ! "

THERE IS A BUT LOAD OF INFO ON THIS FORUM........ONE THING I KNOW WILL HELP IS :USE MOLASSAS.......... CHECK OUT THREAD IN SIGNATURE FOR MORE INFO.... research thread only. plENTY OF HORMONES/PGR`S AND VITIMINS YOU COULD USE..... DROP IN TO : HORMONES vs cO2 THREAD IN SIG........ I WILL BE HAPPY TO HELP !
LETS NOT HIJACK THIS THREAD !

eza82 said:

I only use RW and coco fiber ....

best ADIVCE I EVER GOT !::

"FEED THE SOIL NOT THE PLANT ! "

THERE IS A BUT LOAD OF INFO ON THIS FORUM........ONE THING I KNOW WILL HELP IS :USE MOLASSAS.......... CHECK OUT THREAD IN SIGNATURE FOR MORE INFO.... research thread only. plENTY OF HORMONES/PGR`S AND VITIMINS YOU COULD USE..... DROP IN TO : HORMONES vs cO2 THREAD IN SIG........ I WILL BE HAPPY TO HELP !
LETS NOT HIJACK THIS THREAD !

Click to expand...

do you like superthrive?

Originally Posted by tapla
From forums.Gardenweb.com
Not all are much enamored of Superthrive, and it DOES contain ingredients that WILL hurt your plants if overused. It contains synthetic auxin, the same growth regulator that was used in defoliants in Viet Nam. This question arises soo often, that I saved a synopsis of an experiment I've repeated 4 times, with some loose controls in place. You may, or may not find it interesting, but I am pretty settled with my conclusion(s).
Superthrive or Super-Jive
The question of the value of Superthrive as a miracle tonic for plants is often bandied about in horticultural circles. Several years ago, after reading claims that range from "I put it on and my plant, which had never bloomed, was in full bloom the next day" to "It was dead - I put Superthrive on it and the next day it was alive and beautiful, growing better than it ever had before", I decided to find out for myself. If you look for information on the net, you’ll find the manufacturer’s claims and anecdotal observations, totally lacking in anything that resembles anything like a control. Though my experiments were far from scientific, I tried to keep some loose controls in place so that I could make a fair judgment of its value, based my own observations. Here is what I did, what I found, and the conclusions I made about my use of Superthrive.
On four separate occasions, I took multiple cuttings from the same plant. The plant materials I used were: Ficus benjamina, (a tropical weeping fig) Luna apiculata (Peruvian myrtle), Chaenorrhinum minus (a dwarf snapdragon), and an unknown variety of Coleus. In each instance, I prepared cuttings from the same plant and inserted them in a very fast, sterile soil. Half of the cuttings were soaked in a Superthrive solution of approximately 1/2 tsp per gallon of water. The other half of the cuttings were watered in with water. In subsequent waterings, I would water the "Superthrive batch" of cuttings with a solution of 10 drops per gallon and the others with water. The same fertilizer regimen was followed on both groups of cuttings. In all four instances, the cuttings that I used Superthrive on rooted first. For this reason, it follows that they would naturally exhibit better development, though I could see no difference in vitality, once rooted. I can also say that a slightly higher percentage f cuttings rooted that were treated to the Superthrive treatment. I suspect that is directly related to the effects of the auxin in Superthrive hastening root initiation before potential vascular connections were destroyed by rot causing organisms.
In particular, something I looked for because of my affinity for compact branching in plants was branch (stem) extension. Though the cuttings treated with Superthrive rooted sooner, they exhibited the same amount of branch extension. In other words, internode length was approximately equal.
As a second part to each of my "experiments", I divided the group of cuttings that had not been treated with Superthrive into two groups. One of the groups remained on the water only program, while the other group was treated to a 10 drop per gallon solution of Superthrive. Again, the fertilizer regimen was the same for both groups. By summer’s end, I could detect no difference in bio-mass or vitality between the two groups of plants.
Since I replicated the above in four different trials, using four different plant materials, I’m confident in drawing some conclusions as they apply to me and my growing habits or abilities. First, based on my observations, I have concluded that Superthrive holds value for me as a rooting aid, or stimulant if you prefer. I regularly soak the soil, usually overnight, of my newly root-pruned and usually bare-rooted repots in a solution of 1/2 tsp Superthrive per gallon of water. Second, and also based on my observations, I don’t bother with its use at any time other than at repotting. No evidence was accumulated through the 4 trials to convince me that Superthrive was of any value as a "tonic" for plants with roots that were beyond the initiation or recovery stage.
The first ingredient listed as beneficial on the Superthrive label is vitamin B-1 (or thiamine). Growing plants are able to synthesize their own vitamin B-1 as do many of the fungi and bacteria having relationships with plant roots, so it's extremely doubtful that vitamin B-1 could be deficient in soils or that a growing plant could exhibit a vitamin B-1 deficiency.
Some will note that I used more of the product than suggested on the container. I wanted to see if any unwanted effects surfaced as well as trying to be sure there was ample opportunity for clear delineation between the groups. I suspect that if a more dilute solution was used, the difference between groups would have been less clear.
It might be worth noting that since the product contains the growth regulator (hormone) auxin, its overuse can cause defoliation, at least in dicots. The broad-leaf weed killer Weed-B-Gone and the infamous Agent Orange, a defoliant that saw widespread use in Viet Nam, are little more than synthetic auxin.
Al F.

Originally Posted by George Buehler
from www.louisvillebonsai.org

There has been a flurry of activity on the ABSForum regarding the use of SuperThrive. The original question that was posted was whether the stuff really worked and if other root stimulator products were just as good.
One response was that every time she transplanted a bonsai, she soaked the roots in a SuperThrive solution for 20 minutes prior to putting it in a pot. Of course she believes it is the best thing since sliced bread.
Another response was that plants do not need vitamins however manufacture their own vitamins. Therefore how could the SuperThrive help the tree? This respondent said that he switched to a material called Roots 2 and found that this material worked very well.
A number of respondents reported that they had used SuperThrive in the past but gave up using it. Their conclusion was that they didn't see any benefit.
It appears that SuperThrive consists of Thiamine (aka Vitamin B1) 0.09% and 1-napthyl acetic acid (0.048%). Thiamine was promoted as a root stimulant in a Botanical gazette in the 1930's. The research report could not be repeated by other researchers, and the original authors retracted their reports since they could not repeat the results either. The 1-naphtyl acetic acid is a synthetic auxin (a plant hormone). Whether it works or not is questionable.
Other respondents said they replaced the SuperThrive with other materials like MicroMax, Sequestrine or Roots 2, and they got better results.
The directions on SuperThrive say that it is to be used with fertilizers. Could perhaps the combination of SuperThrive and fertilizer cause it to work?
I know from personal contact that the Montreal bonsai arboretum did use SuperThrive but abandoned its use a number of years ago because they could not see any positive effects with its use. They replaced the SuperThrive with MicroMax after they did a short study on that.
Apparently this controversy has been going on for years. I know several of our members use it regularly, and at least one swears by it. I also know it is extremely difficult to substantiate whether a particular chemical or process works or doesn't work especially since we are limited by the number of specimens we have. Also all research (or at least all of the research I have read) has been done on plants/trees in a greenhouse or field environment, not the bonsai environment (rock soil, small pots, constant trimming, and repeated root pruning). Therefore, my questions to the membership:
Who uses it? Do you use it in combination with other chemicals? Have you tried eliminating it or substituting it for other materials? How many trees did you do your experiment on? Please let me know. I will report the results back in a future report.

Get a pure B1 OR THIAMIN additive...plenty out there !!!
Super thrive is ONLY GOOD FOR CUTTINGS !~

eza82 said:

Get a pure B1 OR THIAMIN additive...plenty out there !!!
Super thrive is ONLY GOOD FOR CUTTINGS !~

Click to expand...

any names you can give will help alot

this is what i use !

Grotek Vitamaxplus B1 Plant Formula 1-1-2: 1 Liter
[N718855G]

$20.50


VitaMaxPlus™ 1-1-2 is a scientifically created formula designed to encourage better root development, larger buds, blooms, fruits, and flowers. Designed to be used as an additive to your regular nutrient, VitaMaxPlus™ helps increase plant development at the blooming and fruiting stages and reduces plant stress. Great for transplanting and rooting, VitaMaxPlus™ is a plant growth enhancer that contains many essential macro and chelated micro elements along with natural B vitamins. VitaMaxPlus™ is a great additive to you regular nutrient that helps boost the effects and allows the plant to better utilize the nutrients provided. Having the same ingredients as regular VitaMax, this product also contains amino acids and enzymes as the desirable plus for certain feeding programs (such as tomato and pepper crops). The enzymes break down nutrient clusters and the calcium aids in preventing bud abort and blossom end rot.

Get the seeds going indoors first any seelings that come up will be eaten by slugs any anything else that crawls.if you have grown seedlings b4 then yo will be fine.get them up to about 3/5 ince before planting outside.make sure you get a bag of lime and put around the plants this will stop slugs.the bigger you can get the plants b4 putting them out then the more chance you have lollypop the plants this makes it realy hard for any pest to get a grip on the bottom of your plants.you are lucky haveing a chance like this but still take gurilla like action because if omeone stummbles ammong your plants there gone.and the most important thing in outdoor growing dont tell any one.no one or word will get around.good luck.

thanx for the info