Has anyone tried?

hotsxyman911

hotsxyman911

Active Member
honestly I am just too lazy to search for the right term of what this technique is called but I tried it today on one of my plants and I was wondering if anyone has tried it.

what i did was i put some LST into it last week and started the bend in the plant and today I bent the plant all the way to the ground and buried it into the soil in hopes of roots being produced from the part of the main stem that is buried to make the plant more "stable" maybe?

idk if it will work but next week ill take some photos of it and keep it updated
 
hotsxyman911

hotsxyman911

Active Member
I found this on the internet about it and from this I did "simple layering"

Layering
Layering is a way to grow new plants from existing plants without having to take any cuttings. In a nutshell, bury part of a stem or branch in the soil and new roots and shoots will form. This method is often more successful than propagating from cuttings, because the new plant can get water and food from the stock plant. Once the new plant is established, it can be moved to another spot in the garden.

Simple Layering
Most plants with low growing branches or stems, such as vines and woody shrubs, take well to simple layering. Use a dormant branch in early spring or a mature branch in late summer.

Bend a flexible, low-growing branch to the ground and place it in a small hole about 4-inches deep. Remove leaves and side-shoots from the portion of the branch that will be buried and cover it with soil. You may need to place a rock on top of the soil to hold the branch underground. It is important to leave at least 6-12 inches of the branch tip out of the soil and stake it upright to keep it growing straight -- this will be the top portion of your new plant!

Usually, the bend in the buried portion of the branch is enough to encourage rooting, but by scraping, or wounding, the bark on its underside, you can help speed rooting along. Keep the layered area moist and free of weeds and within a season or two a root mass will have developed. Cut the layered section from the plant and it's ready for transplanting.

Tip Layering
Ideal for blackberries and raspberries, tip layering should be done in late summer and is a lot like simple layering. However, instead of keeping the tip of the plant above ground, you bury it in a hole 3-4 inches deep. At first, the tip will grow downward, but then it will make a sharp turn and grow upwards toward the sun.

In late fall or early spring, after roots have developed and new shoots appear, tip layers can be cut from the original plant and moved to a new area in the garden.

Compound (Serpentine) Layering
Compound layering involves burying several parts of one stem and works well with vining plants or plants with pliable branches. Bend the stem towards the ground as you would if simple layering, but alternately cover and expose sections of the stem. The end result should look like your stem is snaking its way through the soil.

Each section of the compound layer should have one bud exposed and another bud buried. Wound or scrape the bottom side of each covered section to promote rooting. Cut plants apart when they have developed roots and replant them early in the growing season.

Mound (Stool) Layering
If you have closely branched or heavy-stemmed shrubs and rootstock of tree fruits that you'd like to propagate, try mound layering. During the dormant season, prune the plant back to approximately 1-inch above the soil surface.

The following spring, the trimmed plant will produce new shoots. Cover these shoots with soil, creating a 7 to 9-inch mound around the stock plant. Roots will grow at the bases of the new, buried shoots. In the fall or following spring, carefully separate and transplant the newly developed plants.

Air Layering
Air layering can be used on many larger houseplants, as well as woody ornamental plants, such as holly, rhododendron and lilac. For best results, start air layers in the spring on stems from the previous year's growth or during the summer months on the current season's growth.

Using an upper branch or stem, select a site just below a leaf node and remove the leaves and twigs both below and above that point for 3-4 inches. Scrape away a small area of bark, or make a cut about 1-1/2 inches long and 1/3 of the way through the stem. Apply a rooting compound, such as Clonex® to the exposed area to promote root production. Use roughly a handful of moist sphagnum moss to surround the wound and wrap the moss with black plastic. Seal the plastic on all sides with tape or twisty ties, making sure that the moss does not extend beyond the cover.

Once the roots are well formed (usually 1-3 months for houseplants; 1-2 seasons for outdoor plants) cut the stem just below the bag and pot the new plant as you would any seedling. After a couple of months the young plant should be hardy enough to transplant outside.
 
lokie

lokie

Well-Known Member
How is the plant life cycle effected? veg longer? vs how much would you expect to gain?

Seems its time and effort vs payoff.
 
hotsxyman911

hotsxyman911

Active Member
well from what i gather it would make the plant more stable, which would make me think it might create bigger buds? the plant will have rooted into 2 separate places...
 
lokie

lokie

Well-Known Member
Rooting that way may be possible. How much time does it take? Then how much time will you veg the new growth before flower?:?:
Most want the product before it is ready.
[video=youtube;XzcWwmwChVE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XzcWwmwChVE[/video]
 
hotsxyman911

hotsxyman911

Active Member
well im testing the method outside to see if the plant will even do it. but its not a bid priority i was just wondering if anyone has done it or not to see their opinon on it, or to see if it was even possible.
 
hotsxyman911

hotsxyman911

Active Member
and im pretty sure they do this for pumpkin patches for the really huge pumpkins...? maybe it will benefit the marijuana plant..
 
polyarcturus

polyarcturus

Well-Known Member
i have done it. it takes a while very similar to air layering.

i do it all the time with tomatoes. but i really dont see the purpose of it on indoor plants, maybe outdoor one where they can get very big and dont need the lower branches as much.
 
hotsxyman911

hotsxyman911

Active Member
it was just an example of a plant that farmers do it with... if you can do it with one plant you should be able to do it to another. thats why im just experimenting and trying it...
 
hotsxyman911

hotsxyman911

Active Member
polyarcturus said:
i have done it. it takes a while very similar to air layering.

i do it all the time with tomatoes. but i really dont see the purpose of it on indoor plants, maybe outdoor one where they can get very big and dont need the lower branches as much.
Click to expand...
I am trying this outdoors to see if it will have any effect on the plant. ill have pics friday to show
 
hotsxyman911

hotsxyman911

Active Member
the pictures are here!
ok so i took the photo of where i buried the plants stem and i am doing sort of a guerrilla grow where i only go see the plants 1 time a week
the plants are obviously in the ground so i am thinking this might make the plant more stable from the top up and leave all the growth from in between where its burried and where the plant in mainly planted.
i re-wet the soil and actually put more wet soil over it to cover it a little more and keep it moist longer since i wont be able to monitor and make the soil moist.

for now that is all i have, sorry if my pictures are not rotated i was really high and didn't want to take the extra effort..

any questions or suggestions feel free to speak
 

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polyarcturus

polyarcturus

Well-Known Member
pretty sweet can wait to see the results i bet if anything it will help more than hurt i look at it as an advanced form of LST for larger plants.
 
Guerilla Gardener

Guerilla Gardener

Active Member
hotsxyman911 said:
and im pretty sure they do this for pumpkin patches for the really huge pumpkins...? maybe it will benefit the marijuana plant..
Click to expand...
Leaf touches soil = dead... I predict rotting your branch. You COULD try too slice it a bit and add a rooting hormone for shits n giggles to see what will happen... but I think you are just killing that branch off by trying. Hemp is NOT a vine , like Iokie said.

Edit.. just saw pics.. not what I had pictured.. you'll be fine.. it should anchor the plant more.
 
dannyboy602

dannyboy602

Well-Known Member
hotsxyman911 said:
honestly I am just too lazy to search for the right term of what this technique is called but I tried it today on one of my plants and I was wondering if anyone has tried it.

what i did was i put some LST into it last week and started the bend in the plant and today I bent the plant all the way to the ground and buried it into the soil in hopes of roots being produced from the part of the main stem that is buried to make the plant more "stable" maybe?

idk if it will work but next week ill take some photos of it and keep it updated
Click to expand...
i think you are talking about air layering. google it.
 
sorethumb

sorethumb

Active Member
i know tomatoe plants will set roots anywhere without layering but trees are not easy to clone or layer tried this with a maple
this summer . i gave up lol but maybe a young plant that has'nt made a woody stem yet would be easyer . i like this idea think of the giant buds thats how these worlds biggest tomatoes pumpkins are done they have mutiable stems feeding one plant . great idea for bud .
 
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