2 days ago i transplanted some healthy cuttings into my 20 litre airpots and gave them all around half a litre of low strength nutrients and the day after gave them all 2 litres and they looked a tiny bit better i am using a new 600w led light its on 75 percent power around 30 inches away could this be the problem? It was a little hot on the day of the transplant with outside temps reaching 29c but my hygrometer hasnt arrived yet but it wasnt really hot so i dont think it was that does anybody have any idea?
Heat issue or led?
- Thread starter Brian97
- Start date
thumper60
Well-Known Member
Those look fine just building roots not leaf give them a few days.
Like a legit 600 watt light? Which make/model and size of tent?
If that's 600 pulling from the wall at 75%, that's 450 watts at 30" on new cuttings. The interveinal chlorosis (yellowing between the veins) at the top of the plant indicate light stress. 29c is not a problem, but if you're blasting such high PPFD, then that's not good. You need to ramp up light intensity. You're already using flower PPFD numbers.
Its the omega infinity 3.0 pro i have never used an led before but i have vegged with a 600w hps before at 100% and not had half as many problems as i am now
Yeah, way different. LED's are far brighter watt for watt due to being more efficient than HPS.
I can't find a PAR map for that light (did it come with one?) to calculate the PPFD, but getting a simple Photone app for iOS to measure PPFD would be better than stabbing in the dark. You want your PPFD to be around 100-200 or so. Meanwhile, I'd dim the light to 25% if it were me, and that might still be a bit too bright for clones.
Treesomewanted77
Well-Known Member
I agree with the above turn your light down for a week or more and let the plants grow into it. You can sometimes get transplant shock and it takes a little time to come out of it just be patient and let them grow some roots then you will see top side growth rates take off. I always have a short period when I I transplant into bigger containers before they really take off nothing uncommon
coreywebster
Well-Known Member
I have one of those lights ..i only use it for flower
Guys above are right in my opinion.
Your plants aren't big enough, root wise ect to support that intense of a light.
You will love that light though when your flowering.
Novicegardner
Member
Turn the light down to 30% and move pots to outer corners of the tent to lower the light exposure they are only young give them a few days to get comfy in those pots move them in under the light more everyday while gradually increasing dimmer to 50% at 450mm above canopy until you have something you can get ppfd readings from, listen to the plants look at them if they seem stress back the light off a little watch your tips of top leafs if you notice yellowing or burning back the light off, until you get a par meter you are in the dark play it safe and watch them they will let you know if they aren’t liking the environment
His light's dimmer is preset to 25%, 50%, 75%. Gotta put it on 25% and ramp it up by lowering the lights and then pop it to 50% while raising the light and rinse and repeat.
I've never grown under LEDs, but I've put even freshly rooted clones under 600W HPS ~1.5-2 feet above the plant, no problems.
When I looked at your plants in the pictures OP and saw the way they were drooping my first thought was overwatering. They look like they've been over watered to me.
When I looked at your plants in the pictures OP and saw the way they were drooping my first thought was overwatering. They look like they've been over watered to me.
It's not the drooping that is the problem. It's the interveinal chlorosis at the top of the plant (zoom in on the pics), which is indicative of light stress.
Again, you can't compare HPS wattage to LED wattage. LED lights use electricity more efficiently. Don't you use LED lightbulbs in your home? In the US, incandescent lightbulbs have been banned because of how inefficient compared to an LED. A 100W incandescent bulb is replaced with a 14W LED and has the same lumen output. It's not 14W LED per 100W HPS because HPS is more efficient than incandescent bulbs, but it's still significantly more efficient HPS.
I had the same problem when I started to use led, you think you can ramp up the light because it's 30inches away but it's the complete opposite. As above you need to build the intensity up slowly, cuttings and seedlings only need 200-400 umols and then in veg 400-600 then early flower 600-800 and mid to late flower 800-1000, and the best thing I done was buy a light intensity reader, I got the photobio adavanced quantum par meter at around £200 in uk and It's the best thing I done and would recommend to anyone using led lights. Once you understand the actual light intensity your plants can take you will see a massive difference in appearance and quality and yield.. hope this helps
I'm using a maxibright varidrive 720w, would I see a massive difference in yield if I went over to an omega 3.0 infinity pro would you say mate
Best thing I done was buy a par meter and I also recommend a hand held temperature reader to point at your plants to see what there actual temperature is
coreywebster
Well-Known Member
I doubt it mate.
If you didn't already have the maxibright I'd recommend the infinity Pro but I wouldn't bother buying it to replace the unit you have.
I was thinking that mate because the plants can only absorb so much light and I don't ever use mine on the 720w setting I was just curious as to what the infinity pro can do and also you can use a controller with them, do you use the matrix controller mate
coreywebster
Well-Known Member
I don't use a controller with it .
Seems pointless to me when a £5 timer will do the job.
But I'm a fan of keeping things low tech.
What you covering space wise with your maxibright?
I've read that maxi controller is good because instead of the lights just coming straight on with full power they light up slowly like sunrise and go down slowly like sunset but that could be a gimmick and mine is 1.2 squared mate
coreywebster
Well-Known Member
Just a gimmick mate.
And yeah, you'll never really need 720w in a 4x4ft or 1.2m2 so you've got plenty of light.
Not like you'd notice the financial saving buying the other light
That's what I was thinking mate, the best thing i done was buy a photobio adavanced quantum par meter as that gives me the exact umols they're getting at different stages and at different heights. I would love to have one of those cannatrol cool cure machines but at $2100 delivered to my house is just a bit steep, I'm surprised no other company has made one