High CRI 90+ vs. Efficacy

Planning my first panel, just a simple low power setup 4 ft × 1ft for seedlings / clones.

What's the best option in your opinion with max efficiency in mind ?

Seems the higher the CRI the lower the efficacy ?
 
That is a good light for the job, though only 4500 lumens which is less than a 4ft T5HO but 10 less watts used.

May go that route but something more power but dimmable would be a nice option, a fun first time diy project. I was thinking Vero 10s with a range of 50-100w.

It would be for succulents also.

Thanks guys
(been reading a lot n scoping data sheet specs).
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Planning my first panel, just a simple low power setup 4 ft × 1ft for seedlings / clones.

What's the best option in your opinion with max efficiency in mind ?

Seems the higher the CRI the lower the efficacy ?
I'm super happy with the all around performance of my CXB3590 3500K 80CRI chips, for both veg and bloom.

I've run high CRI lighting and it's no better than anything else running over 70 or so.

Once you have the spectrum you want, the focus should shift to how much light you need at the highest efficiency level you can afford. The best answer is currently COB LED, although I certainly understand the cost barrier.

HPS just isn't as good as COB LED. Its only advantage is low initial cost vs light produced, and even then it's only 22CRI, even DE HPS. Even still, the apparent cost advantage evaporates the moment you realize how much more cooling capacity they need.
 

SoOLED

Well-Known Member
Oh for clones and starts in that space go to Sam's Club and get one of these
http://www.samsclub.com/sams/4ft-led-shoplight-shoplight-led/prod16460030.ip
yeah, just cut/remove out the plastic cover on the LEDS. I use something very similar from HD.

or for that matter, you could just buy 2packs bright sticks(6) and bathroom mirror 3 mogul and buy 3 "Y" splits and cut the ends of the bright sticks. they are like 1800 each. run three for clones, and all 6 to veg.
 

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
yeah, just cut/remove out the plastic cover on the LEDS. I use something very similar from HD.

or for that matter, you could just buy 2packs bright sticks(6) and bathroom mirror 3 mogul and buy 3 "Y" splits and cut the ends of the bright sticks. they are like 1800 each. run three for clones, and all 6 to veg.
On the subject of the Bright Stiks, I was reading about which LED bulbs are best and the Osram 8.5w (60w replacement) were reported to be the most efficient of all brands they tested for 60w replacements, in the 90 lm/w range while most are around 70-80. They're also very inexpensive, probably about the same as the Bright Stiks, like 3-4 bucks each when bought in packs of 4 or more. The Bright Stiks are 10w and put out 760 lm, so only 76 lm/w. The same Osram bulbs are also sold under the name Sylvania. It's the same company. Just look for 8.5w and 800 lumens. I'm sure the Bright Stiks work fine, just pointing out that there are better brands available. Might as well get the most for your money. The Osram/Sylvania bulbs also come in 2700k versions, while the Bright Stiks only have 2850k and 5000k. Not a big diff but still some people may prefer the 2700s.
 

Sativied

Well-Known Member
I'm super happy with the all around performance of my CXB3590 3500K 80CRI chips, for both veg and bloom.

I've run high CRI lighting and it's no better than anything else running over 70 or so.
Funny how you made up that second part, the blatant lie, after you realized that first part means shit.

Even if you would have tested 70 vs 80 vs 90cri cobs, which you haven't, you comparing anything with your crappy plants has as much value as your lies. Plus you entirely missed the point... it's not the cri that matters, it means nothing on it's own. (Tell that to realstyles too lol using 5600k 93cri). The sole reason you got the 3500k 80 cri is because you followed the other sheep here and the sellers who lie it's great for plants because it fits in mccree curves.

What's the best option in your opinion with max efficiency in mind ?
Keep the lights off, buy your weed? Max efficiency in practice, for your mini setup, means a few $ more or less. Rather than letting efficiency numbers, wattage, and $ dictate the spectrum, ask the plants. They told me, and anyone but the cooler white cob fans, they would prefer the for them more efficient light from 2700-3000k 90cri over the commonly used veg lights. You can run those more efficient than most of the cob lights used today. Or less, a choice not dictated by cri.
 

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
Funny how you made up that second part, the blatant lie, after you realized that first part means shit.

Even if you would have tested 70 vs 80 vs 90cri cobs, which you haven't, you comparing anything with your crappy plants has as much value as your lies. Plus you entirely missed the point... it's not the cri that matters, it means nothing on it's own. (Tell that to realstyles too lol using 5600k 93cri). The sole reason you got the 3500k 80 cri is because you followed the other sheep here and the sellers who lie it's great for plants because it fits in mccree curves.

Keep the lights off, buy your weed? Max efficiency in practice, for your mini setup, means a few $ more or less. Rather than letting efficiency numbers, wattage, and $ dictate the spectrum, ask the plants. They told me, and anyone but the cooler white cob fans, they would prefer the for them more efficient light from 2700-3000k 90cri over the commonly used veg lights. You can run those more efficient than most of the cob lights used today. Or less, a choice not dictated by cri.
I would go for the high CRI myself, over max efficiency. BTW, you can't use lumen output per watt as a guide to efficiency, because red light shows up much weaker on lumen meters than say green, even when it's the same actual micromoles of output. There will be some real loss of efficiency though because to make the red they have to convert some of the blue with phosphors, and the conversion is not high efficiency. The low CRIs have more unaltered blue light coming through the phosphor layer so they have higher efficiency.

Granted, the precise spectrum is not all that crucial to plant growth, you can grow plants in pure green light with only a small reduction in dry weight over red or blue. Probably best to try to get a fairly even balance of red, blue and green, and even high CRI COBs still have less red than either blue or green. At least it's closer than the lower CRIs though. You could buy the low CRIs and add pure reds to them if you wanted, and thereby probably get very good efficiency and fairly well balanced spectrum.

I just use red CFLs with the 70 CRI 4000k CXB high bays myself, since it's just a small grow. Granted inefficient but it's only four 13w CFLs with the 240w high bays, so not real worried about it. It does make the spectrum look stunningly white. Not red or pink but really high CRI white.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
I would go for the high CRI myself, over max efficiency. BTW, you can't use lumen output per watt as a guide to efficiency, because red light shows up much weaker on lumen meters than say green, even when it's the same actual micromoles of output. There will be some real loss of efficiency though because to make the red they have to convert some of the blue with phosphors, and the conversion is not high efficiency. The low CRIs have more unaltered blue light coming through the phosphor layer so they have higher efficiency.

Granted, the precise spectrum is not all that crucial to plant growth, you can grow plants in pure green light with only a small reduction in dry weight over red or blue. Probably best to try to get a fairly even balance of red, blue and green, and even high CRI COBs still have less red than either blue or green. At least it's closer than the lower CRIs though. You could buy the low CRIs and add pure reds to them if you wanted, and thereby probably get very good efficiency and fairly well balanced spectrum.

I just use red CFLs with the 70 CRI 4000k CXB high bays myself, since it's just a small grow. Granted inefficient but it's only four 13w CFLs with the 240w high bays, so not real worried about it. It does make the spectrum look stunningly white. Not red or pink but really high CRI white.
You've contradicted yourself. Forest you say high CRI is more impending than efficiency, then you say the precise spectrum is not all that crucial.

I say as long as CRI > 70, you're good. Focus on efficiency after that.
 

PurpleBuz

Well-Known Member
You've contradicted yourself. Forest you say high CRI is more impending than efficiency, then you say the precise spectrum is not all that crucial.

I say as long as CRI > 70, you're good. Focus on efficiency after that.
uh oh I agree with tty even tho he refuses to show us his cob lights that he supposedly had somebody build for him.
 

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
uh oh I agree with tty even tho he refuses to show us his cob lights that he supposedly had somebody build for him.
I just said I would go for the high CRI, because I don't care all that much about efficiency. I care somewhat but not enough to not want to buy high CRI, just because the red spike is centered at 630 nm instead of the high 500s. Just a matter of wanting the best spectrum. But, when I did buy lights I had to take what was available fairly easily to me, which was the CXB high bays with 70 CRI. To make up for having to buy the low CRIs, I had to add red CFLs. Without the red CFLs, pretty sucky, looks kind of light greenish.
 

DrBlaze

Well-Known Member
Funny how you made up that second part, the blatant lie, after you realized that first part means shit.
If you read his post a little more carefully, he says he's used high cri lighting... not high-cri cobs. There are hundreds of posts about his experiences with the 93 cri cmh lighting he used for some time.

Also, he probably has you on ignore, so trying to start a fight with him is probably useless
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
If you read his post a little more carefully, he says he's used high cri lighting... not high-cri cobs. There are hundreds of posts about his experiences with the 93 cri cmh lighting he used for some time.

Also, he probably has you on ignore, so trying to start a fight with him is probably useless
Yep 93CRI 860W CDM Allstart lamps.

And indeed I do. I'm not alone in that, either.
 
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