HLG 600's and leaf burn

LEDs are hard to dial in at first, especially when we see all these par maps at specific distances and hear that a certain ppfd is ideal, so naturally you try to mimic that info and end up burning your plants. Really, just ignore ppfd at first and dial in your lights for your specific circumstances, everyone's grow is different. VPD, temps, and co2 have a massive impact on how close you can keep your lights (and how high you can run your EC without burning), and always be very careful when you lower them or raise your % because it can take a few days for damage to show up. Start out with a conservative distance and make any changes gradually, giving several days between changes, and you'll be golden.
Great reply and input thank you very much
 

Kassiopeija

Well-Known Member
Plants will have a different amount of chlorophyl-content if leaves were built in a low radiance environmemt vs harsh radiation.
With less light they will have more and these chlorophyls will also be moved to absorb the directly, like __ __ instead of |.......|.
This means leaves will appear darker and also have a higher surface temperature. This surf. temp would be interesting to know how much of a median difference was there between your vegroom & your flowerroom?
 
Plants will have a different amount of chlorophyl-content if leaves were built in a low radiance environmemt vs harsh radiation.
With less light they will have more and these chlorophyls will also be moved to absorb the directly, like __ __ instead of |.......|.
This means leaves will appear darker and also have a higher surface temperature. This surf. temp would be interesting to know how much of a median difference was there between your vegroom & your flowerroom?
Hey! Thanks for the input, as I described above, my veg tent is just "starter tent". So I still veg for 2-3 weeks under my HLG's. And they grew great when the lights were 3+ feet away and turned all the way down.
However when I turned the lights up to 800 ppfd on day 21 (which is still low for flower) my leaves to the top of my canopy fried to a crisp
 

I found this thread. This fellow seems to know exactly what I'm talking about. I am going to try what he says and add extra cal-mag, iron, and silica to my feed
 

hillbill

Well-Known Member
I had to raise 3 130 watt Boards and set them at 100 watts because, well, LED Light Burn. The 4th Board in there is at it’s max of 100 watts. Now running at 15 inches over flat LST canopy. Did this about the 1st and plant response has been awesome. Everyone looks relaxed and happy.
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
I dont see why this is such a mystery, early on in this thread youve had advice that mostly covers this issue:
Your plants can obviously not keep up with the amount of light youre giving, increasing intensity 4x over night. If a light recieves 4x the light but isnt able to phosynthesize anymore than currently then extra light becomes heat on the leaves. The plants are not able to pick up that slack cause:
- Too much at one time
- They were already pushed towards their limits. You havent dialed in environment for optimal transpiration or metabolism. You can already see this on your before photos, the plants look healthy but they have a somewhat sloppy stance, not really reaching for the light like a plant does when its drinking properly. Have you got notes on watering, how much and how often, between this run and your successful tent run? If you see a difference in how much they drink then thats a hint. If you also have records of how the environment differed between good run and bad run this would help even more.

Factors constraining transpiration and how to fix:
- Low temp and vpd : increase temps a little, adjust rh accordingly if needed. Most people would use +80F as their lower temp limit, rather than 77F as a high cutoff. Is it possible that you successfull tent runs ran higher temps than you are now? Is there any reason you run temps this low, seems like youre running a led grow on HID parameters?
- Co2: as mentioned by prawn, high co2 will close the stomata causing no transpiration: lower co2 to see if the plants stance improves.
- Spectrum: spectrum intensity, i dont know if thats a thing but there are differences between r-spec, vipar and sun light that really have an impact on transpiration, R-spec being the least drink inducing spectrum. If you wanna read up on this you can google "stomata aperture action spectrum". Basic info gleaned: blue opens the stomata, green closes it. Transpiration action spectrum has several peaks, especially somewhere halfway between 400 and 450nm where normal white leds dont have spectral coverage (also peaks in uv territory). So what to take from this and your experience: no probs in sunlight as its absolutely full spectrum, plenty of deeper blues than led, along with massive amount of IR which heats the leaf and helps the plant transpire. Vipar: the balance between blue and green favors blue by far, so again it wont give you probs.
What to do in this case is a bit hard but it would involve adding blue, especially if you can get something deeper than 450nm or even get some uv.


Metabolism: depends on proper amounts of light, co2, water, nutes and heat(some other in this case unimportant factors aswell).
Light,co2 and water, we know its handled.
Heat: worth noting that heat is necesary for both the transpiration and the metabolism. Even if you keep your vpd tight and have good transpiration you can still have too little heat. If you wanna test to see if your probs is more due to no drink or no metabolism you can try putting an agriculture heating pad under a plant and see if it differs from the rest in how it grows. If it improves then you know.
Nutes: i dont think theres enough here to say your nutes are on point or no. If you resolve the above and still have issues its likely to be the case. Most people i see using high intensity leds use synthetic/hydro and most people who go from organic to chems seem to improve their high watt led grow.

Ymmv
 

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
I always went full blast from seed, somewhat mimicking outdoors. Just kept the fixture high and let them grow into it. Not saying it works for everyone, but it did for me running different lights every couple rounds and reading the plants. Also make sure your medium is well aerated/quick draining; slower transpiration under led vs hid will have you chasing the wrong culprits imo. Watering habits need to be adjusted due to the same reason( cheap moisture probe helps to back off that tendency).

You'll get it eventually, just takes trail and error. We've all been there

Good luck grower
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
I always went full blast from seed, somewhat mimicking outdoors. Just kept the fixture high and let them grow into it. Not saying it works for everyone, but it did for me running different lights every couple rounds and reading the plants. Also make sure your medium is well aerated/quick draining; slower transpiration under led vs hid will have you chasing the wrong culprits imo. Watering habits need to be adjusted due to the same reason( cheap moisture probe helps to back off that tendency).

You'll get it eventually, just takes trail and error. We've all been there

Good luck grower
This. Change thing slowly and then watch the plant before changing anything more.
 

hillbill

Well-Known Member
Had one board light up until last Summer but have picked 4 more up since August. Now I have 4 in flower tent and another in veg.
I was not ready for the way they interacted with each other in a reflective area.
 

rollyouron

Well-Known Member
I use an autopilot CO2 controller connected to a tank that keeps the ppms of the sealed room around 1200. (700 in veg) maybe I should try turning it up to like 1500 or 1600,?
First time 2 runs with co2 I almost stop using it. Plants looked like shit. My temp was around 75 to 78. Read where temps need to be at least 85. My room now stays around 88 to 90. 60 rh. It make a huge difference. Plants look great.
 
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