How to add Calcium + Magnesium? (calmag)

Helmut79

Helmut79

Well-Known Member
How do you feed cal+mag when you're seeing magnesium deficiency in your plants?

1) Do you mix it into your nutrition soup or do you give it seperately?

I'm asking, because I read from Canna Liquid Magnesium bottle (epsom salt) that it should not be mixed with fertilisers.

2) Another question - It says 1-2ml per litre, but isn't 1ml a bit too much for a start?
 
Helmut79

Helmut79

Well-Known Member
3) If I'm told to add 150-300ppm calmag, does it mean 150-300ppm of calcium + 150-300ppm of magnesium (total of 300-600ppm) or does it mean 150-300ppm in total of calcium and magnesium together?
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Helmut79 said:
How do you feed cal+mag when you're seeing magnesium deficiency in your plants?

1) Do you mix it into your nutrition soup or do you give it seperately?

I'm asking, because I read from Canna Liquid Magnesium bottle (epsom salt) that it should not be mixed with fertilisers.

2) Another question - It says 1-2ml per litre, but isn't 1ml a bit too much for a start?
Click to expand...
1tsp to 1TBL per gallon of plain water at plain watering. (You should be doing the feed-water-feed-water-feed-water alternating sched for using synthetics anyway.

I (my opinion/choice) would actually suggest G&H CALi MAGic and simply add 5ml per feeding......
 
Helmut79

Helmut79

Well-Known Member
I'm growing in Coco, man. I don't need feed-water-feed cycle.

So you're saying I should definitely not mix it together with other nutes?

Why? Should I feed it with plain water after watering with base nutes?

If I'm giving 20% runoff with base nutes, then 0% with calmag?
 
Helmut79

Helmut79

Well-Known Member
I guess it says not to mix magnesium sulfate with a fertiliser containing calcium, but that doesn't mean I could not mix it into a nutrient solution which contains a fertiliser that contains calcium. Get it?

I think it should be fine when mixing it into a nutrition solution!

What you think?
 
ISK

ISK

Well-Known Member
I grow in perlite/vermiculite (hempy) and use Botanicare CAL-MAG Plus

I mix 5 ml per US gallon, or at least 1ml per litre in every feeding of nutes (GH Maxi-Grow/Bloom) from start to finish
 
bravedave

bravedave

Well-Known Member
I start adding 1/8 tsp per gal of epson about 2 weeks before flip along with my Jack's Citrus every water with positive effect. I'm in peat.
 
D

dickiefickle

Active Member
Epson salt is NOT cal mag it is only magnesium sulfate ... calmag is just that calcium and magnesium the two together in one bottle calmag is of 5 mil to a us gallon Botanical s calmag plus is calcium magnesium and iron together as far as mixing you can mix it with your ferts or mix in water alone right now my plants are too green to add any more ferts so i just go with calmag to fix that deficiency
 
Flowki

Flowki

Well-Known Member
Dr. Who said:
1tsp to 1TBL per gallon of plain water at plain watering. (You should be doing the feed-water-feed-water-feed-water alternating sched for using synthetics anyway.

I (my opinion/choice) would actually suggest G&H CALi MAGic and simply add 5ml per feeding......
Click to expand...
You should be only every other?. Read people feed heavy every time with no issues.
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Helmut79 said:
I guess it says not to mix magnesium sulfate with a fertiliser containing calcium, but that doesn't mean I could not mix it into a nutrient solution which contains a fertiliser that contains calcium. Get it?

I think it should be fine when mixing it into a nutrition solution!

What you think?
Click to expand...
Mix it FIRST.
 
bravedave

bravedave

Well-Known Member
dickiefickle said:
Epson salt is NOT cal mag it is only magnesium sulfate ... calmag is just that calcium and magnesium the two together in one bottle calmag is of 5 mil to a us gallon Botanical s calmag plus is calcium magnesium and iron together as far as mixing you can mix it with your ferts or mix in water alone right now my plants are too green to add any more ferts so i just go with calmag to fix that deficiency
Click to expand...
Not sure who you are addressing, Captain O.
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Flowki said:
You should be only every other?. Read people feed heavy every time with no issues.
Click to expand...
If your using any hydro designed nutrient - you should do the every other day method...The P levels in hydro nutrients tend to be too much, too soon in soil!

I see tons of heavy feeder problems here! Heavy feeding or "pushing" has limits and the fine line between working and too much is very fine!

Here, peep this as I actually broke down and gave up my go to NPK value feeding sched. For soil and hydro.

https://www.rollitup.org/t/pk-13-14.913950/#post-12747569

To that list I used Kelp extract every other feeding as well as CALi MAGic for the buffer quality.

Some Silica use all the way to week 5-6 (Whee, free K! I like higher K, all the way along)

I also used my homemade Sweet Raw as I direct in posts here, where I gave out that formula.

Later on you might consider playing with adding simple AACT bio teas - care is needed as you will have to reduce nutrient use frequency. Next step would be to add some high quality Humic and Fulvic acids, and again you will really reduce the amounts of nutrients used - you'll be down to 50% or less! It's a long road to master that but, well worth the time and work in the end..

Good Luck
 
Flowki

Flowki

Well-Known Member
Dr. Who said:
If your using any hydro designed nutrient - you should do the every other day method...The P levels in hydro nutrients tend to be too much, too soon in soil!

I see tons of heavy feeder problems here! Heavy feeding or "pushing" has limits and the fine line between working and too much is very fine!

Here, peep this as I actually broke down and gave up my go to NPK value feeding sched. For soil and hydro.

https://www.rollitup.org/t/pk-13-14.913950/#post-12747569

To that list I used Kelp extract every other feeding as well as CALi MAGic for the buffer quality.

Some Silica use all the way to week 5-6 (Whee, free K! I like higher K, all the way along)

I also used my homemade Sweet Raw as I direct in posts here, where I gave out that formula.

Later on you might consider playing with adding simple AACT bio teas - care is needed as you will have to reduce nutrient use frequency. Next step would be to add some high quality Humic and Fulvic acids, and again you will really reduce the amounts of nutrients used - you'll be down to 50% or less! It's a long road to master that but, well worth the time and work in the end..

Good Luck
Click to expand...
3-1-3 is the ratio most appealing?, through jacks hydro/cal nitrate. seems to give the option to cut back on N through cal nitrate from week 4/5 onward which would give a higher K value as you increase ec on base. Seems like a simple way to do as you suggest in two simple parts. Perhaps cal/mag may conflict with varying ratios at some point?. From week 5 of a 9 finish might not get to that point?.
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Flowki said:
3-1-3 is the ratio most appealing?, through jacks hydro/cal nitrate. seems to give the option to cut back on N through cal nitrate from week 4/5 onward which would give a higher K value as you increase ec on base. Seems like a simple way to do as you suggest in two simple parts. Perhaps cal/mag may conflict with varying ratios at some point?. From week 5 of a 9 finish might not get to that point?.
Click to expand...
See, there's another interesting working ratio! might want to watch the K at that ratio.

I kinda was partial to 3-1-2 all through the early years for my starting ratio (not a lot to choose from back then - synthetic wise).... I got "taught" by an old "hippie" in the 70's. he showed me how to mix organic ferts to my NPK liking...
Naturally I just had to try synthetics for awhile...Went back to the organic I built till the first Hydro 3 parts came along and went back into synthetics for a long, long time. Covered the bases (still doing org. for my personal during this) and did hydro, back to soil, new brands came out did both....

Along about 2010, I began to phase out synthetics but, was still trying new brands for stores and such. About mid to late 13 I left the last synthetic sit on the shelf and went back to 100% Org. I still get bottles of this and that from some makers to test. They go to my close friend and employee,Tom-tom. She try's them out and sends back results by company email.

I don't see either Cal or Mg having neg effect if used right. Mg can be given rather heavy, mid to late bloom in the form of Mg Sulfate (along with a solid carb source - minor amount) and do some real increasing of trichomes and terps! K sulfate works too as testimony to things like "The Rock Resinator". The thing is, with K sulfates the terps become heavily citrus (lemon). It does effect the nice Berry and Pine smelling strains to be overpowered by more lemon or fuel smells and tastes......It does do the increasing BUT, I don't like the cost!

You have sparked an intrest...but the K sounds like it might be a tick high for use before late veg or right before the flip....K overuse will stunt plants and hurt yields - in veg. The sweet spot is "large" but, like any "pushing". The fall off from hitting too much is very steep. The plants will really "color" up with high K use!

The exciting thing now (for those who understand how to) is that we can get individual nutrients and "build" our own synthetics, with what ever ratio we want! There are a few doing that here. Look in the DIY section. Drop a cpl of them a line and chat that up!
I do see them on the boards too.
 
Flowki

Flowki

Well-Known Member
Dr. Who said:
See, there's another interesting working ratio! might want to watch the K at that ratio.

I kinda was partial to 3-1-2 all through the early years for my starting ratio (not a lot to choose from back then - synthetic wise).... I got "taught" by an old "hippie" in the 70's. he showed me how to mix organic ferts to my NPK liking...
Naturally I just had to try synthetics for awhile...Went back to the organic I built till the first Hydro 3 parts came along and went back into synthetics for a long, long time. Covered the bases (still doing org. for my personal during this) and did hydro, back to soil, new brands came out did both....

Along about 2010, I began to phase out synthetics but, was still trying new brands for stores and such. About mid to late 13 I left the last synthetic sit on the shelf and went back to 100% Org. I still get bottles of this and that from some makers to test. They go to my close friend and employee,Tom-tom. She try's them out and sends back results by company email.

I don't see either Cal or Mg having neg effect if used right. Mg can be given rather heavy, mid to late bloom in the form of Mg Sulfate (along with a solid carb source - minor amount) and do some real increasing of trichomes and terps! K sulfate works too as testimony to things like "The Rock Resinator". The thing is, with K sulfates the terps become heavily citrus (lemon). It does effect the nice Berry and Pine smelling strains to be overpowered by more lemon or fuel smells and tastes......It does do the increasing BUT, I don't like the cost!

You have sparked an intrest...but the K sounds like it might be a tick high for use before late veg or right before the flip....K overuse will stunt plants and hurt yields - in veg. The sweet spot is "large" but, like any "pushing". The fall off from hitting too much is very steep. The plants will really "color" up with high K use!

The exciting thing now (for those who understand how to) is that we can get individual nutrients and "build" our own synthetics, with what ever ratio we want! There are a few doing that here. Look in the DIY section. Drop a cpl of them a line and chat that up!
I do see them on the boards too.
Click to expand...
By 'color' up do you mean a dark green?. I've read so much lately that high K is a good thing at-least in relation to P. Further more, it's seems difficult to find any synth all part that does not have high K (veg at least) meaning the only option to reduce it is through 3 1 part mixes adding complication.
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Flowki said:
By 'color' up do you mean a dark green?. I've read so much lately that high K is a good thing at-least in relation to P. Further more, it's seems difficult to find any synth all part that does not have high K (veg at least) meaning the only option to reduce it is through 3 1 part mixes adding complication.
Click to expand...
Nope! Color potentials within the plant! Blues to purples to reds and progressing to oranges! There are so many colors plants can express from genetic "potentials".....Higher K's are good.....They don't go over for the most part - till you hit some flowering formula's....

Little things like Silica use help regulate P uptake! Silica does many other things besides strengthen cellular walls! This makes it a great source for K in by book....
Mixing Si with nutrients can be imortant. Ca blocks Si and they bind to a precipitate if mixed wrong. To be safe when using Si, I simply used it on plain water days....OR mix it in the nutrient water FIRST OR LAST (with any Ca/Mg being added the opposite place) and mix WELL at every nutrient addition! Be SURE to mix in the TOTAL water volume called for - do NOT use less and be mixing a stronger % ratio as this can cause the problem too!
 
Flowki

Flowki

Well-Known Member
Dr. Who said:
Nope! Color potentials within the plant! Blues to purples to reds and progressing to oranges! There are so many colors plants can express from genetic "potentials".....Higher K's are good.....They don't go over for the most part - till you hit some flowering formula's....

Little things like Silica use help regulate P uptake! Silica does many other things besides strengthen cellular walls! This makes it a great source for K in by book....
Mixing Si with nutrients can be imortant. Ca blocks Si and they bind to a precipitate if mixed wrong. To be safe when using Si, I simply used it on plain water days....OR mix it in the nutrient water FIRST OR LAST (with any Ca/Mg being added the opposite place) and mix WELL at every nutrient addition! Be SURE to mix in the TOTAL water volume called for - do NOT use less and be mixing a stronger % ratio as this can cause the problem too!
Click to expand...
Been looking at silica along with jacks, but jacks don't ship outside us..
 
Bubblin

Bubblin

Well-Known Member
Helmut79 said:
I'm growing in Coco, man. I don't need feed-water-feed cycle.

So you're saying I should definitely not mix it together with other nutes?

Why? Should I feed it with plain water after watering with base nutes?

If I'm giving 20% runoff with base nutes, then 0% with calmag?
Click to expand...
Coco actually loves feed/water/feed/water.
It hold nutes really really well so you can save some cash on nutes by alternating and it keeps salt build up at nearly non-existent levels.

And as others have said that Canna Liquid Magnesium is not cal-mag. I mix actual cal-mag right in with my coco nutes. I alternate between 2ml per gallon and 4ml per gallon @ every other nute batch.
 
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