Trap Star
Well-Known Member
You are running the Chem d clones...right
They look good
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Need Growmie to Help
- Thread starter SpectacularG
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They look good
Rufus T. Firefly
Well-Known Member
Here's an idea, send Logan Labs a soil sample and have them do the complete test with extras and have their agronomist give you recs on what you need to mineralize and amend your soil to optimium levels. You could also use this guy for recs https://www.soildoctorconsulting.com/
About $100 bucks, not including the cost of amendments.
Science!
About $100 bucks, not including the cost of amendments.
Science!
compassionateExotic
Well-Known Member
Growing organics in coco? I do, 5 years of coco indoors (before this hydro and soil ) , almost 20 outdoors soil all organics.
the key is making ur medium alive and have some of the % not coco. I also suggest not having perlite in final pot.
another aspect is avoiding obvious too much K in your feed cause bs peat/soil feed charts they will suggest more both and my suggestion is to push more p in bloom and lower ur k inputs and def push calcium and other micro’s harder but no nitrates . Having a higher fungi dominates is key to good quality fruit and def shines from resistance to defense and also input fixers . No nite can do what fungi and microbes and do and that’s the big aspect people lack when they buy pre amended bags or dry amendments that are organic but are lacking the high dominates of species of fungi and microbes that competed in ur medium . Once I have applied many organics and many layers over years in same mediums from indoors to out it’s obvious the fresh coco or peat vs super medium/soil wins in every aspect of why plants lack their input communication and buffer.
I know I can apply these top dressing or tea’s super low or higher, ur feeding those microbes/fungi and making this food web for them but than allowing plant to communicate to achieve such. This is same aspect of what the npk fixer microbes do. Key is knowing u need to make this medium broken down for it to be able to give ya plants inputs anytime they want. That’s the advantages of organics and Alice mediums. For example I can have plants that want half input vs other and both will be happy and no burns. Sorry I’m not a monocropper and I know when I did do synethitcs the salt build up and also programming it’s npk basis wrecked my multi pheno runs.
i also suggest for ISR to have a high chitin in ur mediums, add crabmeal and insect frass. not only are ur getting fungi but chitin & calcium and other npk. chitin is a game changer and everyone should be using as much aspect of such. Making a plant want to be defensive and also healthier is key
im not trying or arguing organics is only way obviously but I def disagree acting like coco can’t be organics cause I def do that np.not making this hydro vs coco or soil but I grow both soil and coco 100% organics np, key is soil I add more pk balanced and coco I go more lean on k. Simple. I add seabird guano or phos guano for my bloom additona; and it has 0 k input and also of semi fast break down phos and calcium .
the key is making ur medium alive and have some of the % not coco. I also suggest not having perlite in final pot.
another aspect is avoiding obvious too much K in your feed cause bs peat/soil feed charts they will suggest more both and my suggestion is to push more p in bloom and lower ur k inputs and def push calcium and other micro’s harder but no nitrates . Having a higher fungi dominates is key to good quality fruit and def shines from resistance to defense and also input fixers . No nite can do what fungi and microbes and do and that’s the big aspect people lack when they buy pre amended bags or dry amendments that are organic but are lacking the high dominates of species of fungi and microbes that competed in ur medium . Once I have applied many organics and many layers over years in same mediums from indoors to out it’s obvious the fresh coco or peat vs super medium/soil wins in every aspect of why plants lack their input communication and buffer.
I know I can apply these top dressing or tea’s super low or higher, ur feeding those microbes/fungi and making this food web for them but than allowing plant to communicate to achieve such. This is same aspect of what the npk fixer microbes do. Key is knowing u need to make this medium broken down for it to be able to give ya plants inputs anytime they want. That’s the advantages of organics and Alice mediums. For example I can have plants that want half input vs other and both will be happy and no burns. Sorry I’m not a monocropper and I know when I did do synethitcs the salt build up and also programming it’s npk basis wrecked my multi pheno runs.
i also suggest for ISR to have a high chitin in ur mediums, add crabmeal and insect frass. not only are ur getting fungi but chitin & calcium and other npk. chitin is a game changer and everyone should be using as much aspect of such. Making a plant want to be defensive and also healthier is key
im not trying or arguing organics is only way obviously but I def disagree acting like coco can’t be organics cause I def do that np.not making this hydro vs coco or soil but I grow both soil and coco 100% organics np, key is soil I add more pk balanced and coco I go more lean on k. Simple. I add seabird guano or phos guano for my bloom additona; and it has 0 k input and also of semi fast break down phos and calcium .
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SpectacularG
Well-Known Member
Daaaaaaaaaaaaaaang,
He came up with that fire!!
So grateful for the chitin advice didn't even know its existence and it turns out its an important component for fungi cell walls which are so important for live medium!! Thanks for expressing your knowledge bro! Why nobody talks about chitin? Can you expand on the subject please.
SpectacularG
Well-Known Member
That is a super smart idea! I will definitely considering spending that money next run or if I have any related issues during this flowering! I saved it so I can get back at it.
Hope lime and tap water will help me out now.
Still hoping for someone geeky like me to help me with that CEC balance
SpectacularG
Well-Known Member
Also 2 more questions please why you recommend no perlite in final pot, and why you don't suggest to use fertilizer derived from nitrates?
Thanks
PS I probably will come up with more than 3 lol but here another one what chitosan brand and quantity do you recommend and why?
compassionateExotic
Well-Known Member
My question is why is cannabis ag trying to avoid the obviousness of fungi dominant mediums. They (ag industry ) figured out once they could lab test the soils for microbes and look at them. What made these same strains of fruit better and tastier and most resistant when their npk and many things almost same ? Besides enviromental they figured out the key to why and why even in wine they patent it as such. It’s the regional evolving of those dominates of fungi relationship with fungi to plant that makes a huge diff . key is pushing high species counts and letting nature and ur enviromental make or break the species but also give the plants the ability with multi species to be game. Reason I say this is because The plant will give sugars to the microbes and also when ur spreading organics those unique fungi or microbes like in us is unique and gives a special species . this is like for example why u want love worms even indoors because that species of microbe is ph adjusting at 6.5-7 but also a amazing deocmpost9ng microbe, without its Allie ship the worms would starve but also the worms itself moving around in ur soil and promoting this gives ya more aeration and better soil. I’ll even see alive worms and docimposters in my party cups cause I reuse. People act like u gotta have big pots but key is keeping that medium alive and semi wet , but enough air also. I highly suggest re-using ur leafs and stems and making sure to give those worms and fungi always something to chow down on but also giving them the stems/leafs of the cannabis is a free npk .
advanced nutes sells a chitin based product and many other liquid cannabis do. Super costly but all it is is extraction of crab shells . There’s no reason to remove the good things in it but also food for the alive medium.
compassionateExotic
Well-Known Member
the reason why I say no nitrates is because the soil must berunoff but also u will get salt build up and also many species will be harmed. Everytime I used nitrates mid flower even at 15-25% I would see many pheno’s have issues but also play the lab game of what’s wrong. I can now have any pheno and 100’s of diff at same time and nothing will be def or burnt. not only this but why pay for cal/mag nitrate and these things when they just degrade my medium but also make it so I can not reuse my water cause it’s full of such. I got away with it when I never reused mediums or hydro and also knew the pheno and could monocrop 1-4. But why? It def wasn’t better but also lab testing my crops def wasn’t better cause of fancy bottles or nitrate based Ferts
another good example is I put my money into biological fungi for IPM and biological made biocontrols for pest. I’m using my money on safe but also obvious non stress for plants and me on end. everyone has a budget but I see way too many cannabis using their budgets on things and claims taht def regular farmers even in speciality never do.
i just know fruit ag def knows fungi and enviromental is key besides the strain , u can’t buy or have a man made nute line that can do such
SpectacularG
Well-Known Member
SpectacularG
Well-Known Member
is there a biological made control ipm products that will defend plants from all the things combined like Powdery milder, spider mites, and aphids and etc..?
PS. Would you be confortable using this calmag? which one do you use? I feel like you made it an important point
Tell us that when you hit week 4-6 of flower.
compassionateExotic
Well-Known Member
If it was me I would buy crab meal (40-50lb) and insect frass, sprinkle 1t-1T each every gallon of medium (every 2-4 weeks) and also brew insect frass for 8-12hrs at 1/2-1 cup every 50 gal water also add some sugars to feed the tea like molasses ( I use raw npk dry molasses at 1-4T)
I do a mix combo tea with many things every week and top dress many things every 1-4 weeks , besides that it’s plain water, no ph nothing, no flushing , longer u do same medium less nutes and also better it become . ease of not burning planfs but also the natures defenses I couldn’t ever go back. It’s like getting ur body cut and putting anti bacteria on it. U just lost ur best Allie but also def higher chances of infection
SpectacularG
Well-Known Member
. It’s like getting ur body cut and putting anti bacteria on it. U just lost ur best Allie but also def higher chances of infection
[/QUOTE]
Sorry I couldnt understand this
[/QUOTE]
Sorry I couldnt understand this
SpectacularG
Well-Known Member
This is pretty hot what do you think?
It like organic calmag with chitin!
I might skip insect frass its pretty gross lol, I already have worm castings which is ofc another insect sh.it anyway, I'm good on that xD
It like organic calmag with chitin!
I might skip insect frass its pretty gross lol, I already have worm castings which is ofc another insect sh.it anyway, I'm good on that xD
compassionateExotic
Well-Known Member
‘’I highly suggest investing in biocontrol of Grandevo and ROTATE venerate and if u have aphid issues get some Botaniguard 22wp and mix with ethier those listed above and for biofungicide that gives a safe and weekly SAR/ISR regalia and for other mode of defence I smuggest using SABF as a mode of defense on mold where the microbes outcompete any spore and are safe to be sprayed and used all of those till day of harvest.. regalia even if it rains will protect ur plants for 7-14 days and I grow in a super humid And rainy region. Many plants I lost over years from pm to septoria and budrot and since I switched to using regalia and SABF .i removed 100% of all pm on all veggies and cannabis, I honestly thought that wasn’t possible . I also noticed since using regalia with sabf my budrot % dropped from 75%!
sabf is same species as many cannabis branded but way more concentrated and cost way better , good example is prpduct cease, same species but way more costly. I suggest applying SABF at 5ml-15ml per gallon , regalia at 30ml per gallon, venerate 2-5T or Grandevo 1-2T (rotate ) per gallon
I use all these products from my grapes to veggies and cannabis indoors and out and man it’s a game changer vs tradional routes.
key is spraying ur biocontrols/SABF after rains, making sure all surfaces are sprayed and issue scouting.
compassionateExotic
Well-Known Member
Sorry I couldnt understand this
[/QUOTE]
My point was ur evolved from birth with mom and life are ur bacteria on every surface of ur body, protecting u. just like in ur gut. U think u don’t have these Allie’s already and it’s why u can process to defend urself without buying shit ?
nah bro, that’s just crushed up crab meal. U can get a whole 40-50lb bag locally or online for 40-50 bucks np. I’m good on 5x cost lol
compassionateExotic
Well-Known Member
Gaia Green Super Fly Insect Frass 34.7 lb BIG Bag
GAIA GREEN Super Fly Insect Frass is a fertilizer derived from the excreta of black soldier fly larvae. It is a renewable resource produced from pre-consumer food waste fed to fly larvae. Though new to growers, this digested material has played a significant role in plant nutrition for millions...
growgreenmi.com
SpectacularG
Well-Known Member
please no I don't want to use that Its nasty hahahahahah what can I use instead?
Gaia Green Super Fly Insect Frass 34.7 lb BIG Bag
GAIA GREEN Super Fly Insect Frass is a fertilizer derived from the excreta of black soldier fly larvae. It is a renewable resource produced from pre-consumer food waste fed to fly larvae. Though new to growers, this digested material has played a significant role in plant nutrition for millions...
compassionateExotic
Well-Known Member
Ur over thinking everything, insect frass doesnt even smell and its dry. Im done
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