newbie grower here, all help and advice would be greatly appreciated, got 2 girls growing in veg, however one of them has a couple of leaves with a yellowish colour to them (see pics) and some tips are yellow, should i be concerned or am i just being paranoid. Growing in soil, watering when the top inch of soil is dry with ph 6.0-6.5 water/grow feed. Misting at night when lights turn off, they are under 250w cfl and a 300w cfl, temp stays 28degrees celcius lights on and 22ish when lights are off. Ventilation and intake is good so dont think its that causing the issue..... however i am not the most experienced so would love any advice. Cheers.
Leaf or two going yellowish, tips of some leaves also yellow.
- Thread starter haggis007
- Start date
Dr. Who
Well-Known Member
What nutes and feeding at what strength?
It appears like CalMag def. Add a low N CalMag at about 5ml per gallon and feed on.
Those are the lower single leaf "starters". They will yellow up and die off in time anyway.
Oh yeah, leaf tips. That can indicate over feeding BUT, as long as it does not spread or advance up the leaf, you should be ok.
It appears like CalMag def. Add a low N CalMag at about 5ml per gallon and feed on.
Those are the lower single leaf "starters". They will yellow up and die off in time anyway.
Oh yeah, leaf tips. That can indicate over feeding BUT, as long as it does not spread or advance up the leaf, you should be ok.
Dr. Who
Well-Known Member
you're in soil,,,soil self balance's Ph!!!!
WHOA there on the watering!
What is that? about a 1 Gallon pot? 750ml is over watering! You could rot you're roots quick like if the soil stays to moist, to long and that's pushing it kinda.
Water/feed at around 250ml and then water when soil feels dry to the touch around 3/4 inch deep.
By the size of the plant I would say that you should re-pot up to a 3 gallon and feed in veg around 500ml and in flower around 500ml till week 3-4 and increase to maybe 6-700ml as needed to keep the same feeding/watering time (should be as close to lights on as possible).
Ionic lacks CalMag and enzymes that will keep your lady happy! Good stuff, but amend the mix with those and you should do fine.
WHOA there on the watering!
What is that? about a 1 Gallon pot? 750ml is over watering! You could rot you're roots quick like if the soil stays to moist, to long and that's pushing it kinda.
Water/feed at around 250ml and then water when soil feels dry to the touch around 3/4 inch deep.
By the size of the plant I would say that you should re-pot up to a 3 gallon and feed in veg around 500ml and in flower around 500ml till week 3-4 and increase to maybe 6-700ml as needed to keep the same feeding/watering time (should be as close to lights on as possible).
Ionic lacks CalMag and enzymes that will keep your lady happy! Good stuff, but amend the mix with those and you should do fine.
Sorry if this is the basics but what do u mean spoil self balances? My water is ph 7.5ish with no nutes. And i thought to correctly feed the plants only add enough nutes to reduce the ph to between 6 and 6.5. And this week is the first of them needing 750ml before they run throuhh the bottom of the pot. Have been watering 500ml for around 3 weeks. Thanks for all the advice your giving its much appreciated.
Dr. Who
Well-Known Member
First off, you DO NOT need to have the water "run" from the bottom of the pot! If your solution runs from the bottom of the pot ....You are basically washing out the "good stuff" from your soil!
OK, I'll try to not get to technical on this.
Your soil is alive with microbes. These microbes help in many ways. For instance; They take the many forms of nutrients available in the soil and "change or adjust" them to be more effectively "used or absorbed" by your plant. In that light, the Ph of your soil is "adjusted" by these microbes to the "comfort" zone of your plant.....While this is a cool "Fact", it can be hard to understand. Quality nutrients are Ph neutral so these microbes can do their job easier.
Ionic is a Ph neutral product that when used as directed will self adjust (to a point) the Ph in the feeding solution to what the soil needs to do the rest.....or to quote from the manufacturer
"The reactions used to precisely manufacture Ionic[SUP]®[/SUP] Premium Plant Nutrients create a chemical association known as a complex in which the various elements are held in solution by the interaction of their electrical charges. Careful manipulation of these forces during the manufacturing process results in an extremely stable nutrient solution which in many cases can virtually eliminate the need for pH adjustment."
I would suggest to ANY soil grower to understand this "soil food web" by investigating and learning just what this is and how it works in growing ANY crop!
To get you started,here is a simple explanation first.
The soil food web is the community of organisms living all or part of their lives in the soil. It describes a complex living system in the soil and how it interacts with the environment, plants, and animals.
Now go here and get some details!
http://soils.usda.gov/sqi/concepts/soil_biology/soil_food_web.html
Now that you are beginning to understand. I CANNOT STRONGLY ENUFF suggest that anyone growing in soil to BUY AND READ this book!!!!!! The chapter on organic teas is worth the price alone!!! AND,,, The 2011 Garden Writers of America Gold Award for Best Writing/Book proves soil is anything but an inert substance. Healthy soil is teeming with life -- not just earthworms and insects, but a staggering multitude of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms. When we use chemical fertilizers, we injure the microbial life that sustains healthy plants, and thus become increasingly dependent on an arsenal of artificial substances, many of them toxic to humans as well as other forms of life. But there is an alternative to this vicious circle: to garden in a way that strengthens, rather than destroys, the soil food web
http://www.amazon.com/Teaming-Micro...&qid=1376224646&sr=1-1&keywords=soil+food+web
Depending on the season I'll grow only soil or soil and hydro (DWC mainly). I grow bolth 100% organic and a mix of synthetic and organic (to achieve specific goals) and always experimenting in some fashion. I brew my own organic teas, the basis for those have been around for years and in the organic forum is a tea section that contains very closely a variation of my favorite "tea". I have from time to time tested for seed, equipment, and nutrient companies.
A friend and fellow horticulturist has developed a potting soil called "POTTERS GOLD" here in my home state and it was just tested by a very respected MM columnist from a familiar magazine and found to be 1 of the best he's used ,,, ever! I recommend this soil over anything else I've used for organic or synthetic. LOOK HERE:
http://pottersgold.net/
My #1 rule is to keep detailed notes on EVERY grow and refer back to them often!
#2 is CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN
Now after many years of being secretive. I have had a change of heart and decided to share what I know and practice to get people over the nonsense and myths about growing.
Go forth, Grow happy and share what you learn with others!
Peace on Dude.
OK, I'll try to not get to technical on this.
Your soil is alive with microbes. These microbes help in many ways. For instance; They take the many forms of nutrients available in the soil and "change or adjust" them to be more effectively "used or absorbed" by your plant. In that light, the Ph of your soil is "adjusted" by these microbes to the "comfort" zone of your plant.....While this is a cool "Fact", it can be hard to understand. Quality nutrients are Ph neutral so these microbes can do their job easier.
Ionic is a Ph neutral product that when used as directed will self adjust (to a point) the Ph in the feeding solution to what the soil needs to do the rest.....or to quote from the manufacturer
"The reactions used to precisely manufacture Ionic[SUP]®[/SUP] Premium Plant Nutrients create a chemical association known as a complex in which the various elements are held in solution by the interaction of their electrical charges. Careful manipulation of these forces during the manufacturing process results in an extremely stable nutrient solution which in many cases can virtually eliminate the need for pH adjustment."
I would suggest to ANY soil grower to understand this "soil food web" by investigating and learning just what this is and how it works in growing ANY crop!
To get you started,here is a simple explanation first.
The soil food web is the community of organisms living all or part of their lives in the soil. It describes a complex living system in the soil and how it interacts with the environment, plants, and animals.
Now go here and get some details!
http://soils.usda.gov/sqi/concepts/soil_biology/soil_food_web.html
Now that you are beginning to understand. I CANNOT STRONGLY ENUFF suggest that anyone growing in soil to BUY AND READ this book!!!!!! The chapter on organic teas is worth the price alone!!! AND,,, The 2011 Garden Writers of America Gold Award for Best Writing/Book proves soil is anything but an inert substance. Healthy soil is teeming with life -- not just earthworms and insects, but a staggering multitude of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms. When we use chemical fertilizers, we injure the microbial life that sustains healthy plants, and thus become increasingly dependent on an arsenal of artificial substances, many of them toxic to humans as well as other forms of life. But there is an alternative to this vicious circle: to garden in a way that strengthens, rather than destroys, the soil food web
http://www.amazon.com/Teaming-Micro...&qid=1376224646&sr=1-1&keywords=soil+food+web
Depending on the season I'll grow only soil or soil and hydro (DWC mainly). I grow bolth 100% organic and a mix of synthetic and organic (to achieve specific goals) and always experimenting in some fashion. I brew my own organic teas, the basis for those have been around for years and in the organic forum is a tea section that contains very closely a variation of my favorite "tea". I have from time to time tested for seed, equipment, and nutrient companies.
A friend and fellow horticulturist has developed a potting soil called "POTTERS GOLD" here in my home state and it was just tested by a very respected MM columnist from a familiar magazine and found to be 1 of the best he's used ,,, ever! I recommend this soil over anything else I've used for organic or synthetic. LOOK HERE:
http://pottersgold.net/
My #1 rule is to keep detailed notes on EVERY grow and refer back to them often!
#2 is CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN
Now after many years of being secretive. I have had a change of heart and decided to share what I know and practice to get people over the nonsense and myths about growing.
Go forth, Grow happy and share what you learn with others!
Peace on Dude.
HeadieNugz
Active Member
In addition to having an impeccable name Doc is absolutely right, very well articulated my friend.
Keep a balanced nute level in your soil, Flush between staged with some Sledge Hammer and you'll be Skippy.
More importantly: Know the Cause and Effect of what your doing to your soil! Take notes, never make the same mistake twice.
Keep a balanced nute level in your soil, Flush between staged with some Sledge Hammer and you'll be Skippy.
More importantly: Know the Cause and Effect of what your doing to your soil! Take notes, never make the same mistake twice.
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