Mycorrhizal fungi treated plant comparisons
- Thread starter mouse1818
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mr sunshine
Well-Known Member
I bought some of this last week it's used during transplant right?
mouse1818
Well-Known Member
Yea just put it on the roots or in the root hole. Make sure you have the right species also endo not ecto. You can also use it as a soil drench but I don't know how effective that is id have to do more research. I would also use this site to research the species in your product so you know what your getting:https://microbewiki.kenyon.edu/index.php/MicrobeWiki
mouse1818
Well-Known Member
Is it liquid or powder?
mr sunshine
Well-Known Member
mr sunshine
Well-Known Member
I also use earth juice microblast..my soil mix also has a bag of light warrior in it...The light warrior has a shit load of fungi bacteria in it.
Dr. Who
Well-Known Member
Giggle, youse guys are funny....
How about you simply mix your powdered myco's into your soil before you transplant.....You do realize that these myco's work best in organic vs. synthetic grows....
Synthetics do spank the living bio's in the soil rather hard, but don't kill them outright....If using synthetics,,,add bio's weekly, no less then every other....Here is a simple AACT tea that supplies them....use once a week.
1Cup Earthworm castings
1/3Cup Alfalfa meal (I like Dr Earth's the best for this)
2 air stones and a 2 outlet air pump
4 gallons of rain/puddle, pond, lake or river water (NOT RO or high Ca/Fe (Iron) well water.
5 gallon pail
Mix everything together in the bucket with the stones as far apart as possible.
At 70F you should bubble it for 48 hrs,,,,,less if hotter, more if colder (you can use an aquarium heater set to 70 to regulate the temp)
Now water with it full strength on water only days (no feed)...
Be happy
How about you simply mix your powdered myco's into your soil before you transplant.....You do realize that these myco's work best in organic vs. synthetic grows....
Synthetics do spank the living bio's in the soil rather hard, but don't kill them outright....If using synthetics,,,add bio's weekly, no less then every other....Here is a simple AACT tea that supplies them....use once a week.
1Cup Earthworm castings
1/3Cup Alfalfa meal (I like Dr Earth's the best for this)
2 air stones and a 2 outlet air pump
4 gallons of rain/puddle, pond, lake or river water (NOT RO or high Ca/Fe (Iron) well water.
5 gallon pail
Mix everything together in the bucket with the stones as far apart as possible.
At 70F you should bubble it for 48 hrs,,,,,less if hotter, more if colder (you can use an aquarium heater set to 70 to regulate the temp)
Now water with it full strength on water only days (no feed)...
Be happy
calicocalyx
Well-Known Member
No molasses? And just curious as to why no RO or high iron/calcium water? My water gets high in iron seasonally, and it does mess with the zinc and magnesium, does it bind to or suppress the microbes?
I have seen the mycelium running across the surface of the soil after watering a bunch of micros in. I have also heard that bokashi creates a mycelium mat within the soil that helps filter the air as well as aid in nutrient uptake. Big fan here, of consistent innoculation through out the grow.
mouse1818
Well-Known Member
Never will I use synthetics for my plants. I was raised by one of those crazy organic people that buy EVERYTHING ORGANIC even towels. Yea that's what i was saying to just put the powder in the hole before transplant or mix it in.
Dr. Who
Well-Known Member
@mr sunshine and @BobBitchen
Arrrggghhh,,,,,,,,,,sorry, MOLASSES yup,,,1/3 Cup......Damn,(I was under the influence when I wrote that) the new unnamed project is very good...smooth and strong.
So then it's
1C EWC
1/3C Alfalfa meal
1/3C Molasses
"running across the surface" That's what my "water only soil" looks like at the first turn over after assembly/watering...
As for the water. RO is sooo empty, usually at 6.0 pH it does inhibit microbial growth a bit.....I've done actual microbe counts under a Microscope and RO/High count Ca/Fe well water does the same......Not to mention the micros problem you mention (Z & Mg).
A note to consider. If you add a Kelp of any kind to your Tea mix. Expect almost a 33% drop in microbial count! I was told that from the Vortex people and did a count test on that too.....YUUPP! Their quite correct! 33% average micro count drop.....I'll use Kelp in Fert tea's and skip it for Micro tea's
Bokashi is used in my worm farm as it neutralizes any non-veggie based ink in the newsprint I use in it.....The worm's eat away and poop Bokashi laced castings full of a lot of other wonderful micro's too!
Doc
bravedave
Well-Known Member
I used Xtreme Mycos with synthetics my last grow (just chopped) and things did super...anxious to dump the pots and check out the roots.
A couple things ...
As i understand it, it is not the synthetic nutes that cause the stunting of the fungus, but too much "P" regardless of the source. Lowenfel mentions this in"Teaming .." Because the book gives only NPK references and not ppm it is a bit short-sighted and leaves us guessing. So I contacted Lowenfel and he answered 80 ppm. He also said that his next book is going to be on Fungus explicitly. I use Jack's citrus at 20-10-20 at a half teaspoon per gallon and that falls in his guideline.
Secondly, I was pleased to read the Mykos application instructions telling me to powder the transplant area as it is so easy and no guessing whether your roots come in contact. I personally think this has advantages.
Lastly, a year ago when supplying my first grow I purchased basic Promix that does not have the myco already added like the higher end products. Adding this myself saves me significant medium costs. I wrote about it here:
https://www.rollitup.org/t/the-best-deals-thread-post-best-deals-and-lowest-prices-links.237610/page-116#post-11284783
Dr. Who
Well-Known Member
Ah yes! The inherent problem of too much P! You really got that right.....and that tends to be a real problem with a lot of MM "specific" nutrients.....They are out of the "real" NPK ratio's with their high P counts.....Then the poor plant gets bombed again with High P&K bloom "boosters" at like week 4 of bloom and their already getting too much!!!!
Boy do you see that around here a lot!
I do added Bio's to my WOSoil mix,,,,But what I get from my fresh EWC and the Alfalfa meal of my choice with those added, keep me quite at ease about not "powdering" my transplants....There really is plenty going on in there and they get active more and more as the roots spread to new zones in the pot...
Doc
Nice follow up Dave!
calicocalyx
Well-Known Member
My understanding of the kelp issue is that it suppresses micobes in the first 24 hours, so as a consequence you should brew longer or add the kelp after brewing and just before watering in. I just use kelp on plain water days, between tea and fert days. Also foliar feeding the kelp helps a lot.
Dr. Who
Well-Known Member
Yuppers,,,48 hr run on any kelp containing tea's would help.
Adding after brewing is better.
I run water only soils and the kelp is in the mix.......Sometimes on particular strains I do an organic soil good through 2 weeks of bloom (well, kinda lower concentrated on P & K with a bit more N for the longer running plant) supplement with tea & top dressing to run out to finish.....(I'm not a "spike" kinda guy)...
Nice point
Doc
georgio838
Well-Known Member
http://www.biostim.com.au/myco-gold.html heres 1 that works well for me