Need help plz

noob4560 · Friday at 7:07 PM

Over the past week my plants leaves are slowly losing color and the new growth is twisting and curling up and one plant showing yellow tips. I did a slurry test and the plants are reading 350 to 380 ppm I did a feed of 1/4 cup of buildasoil craft blend and a light feed of cal mag 2 days ago but the plants are still slowly losing color. Plants are 7 weeks old from seed and have been in their pots for 4 weeks now since transplant. Not sure if this is light related but I did raise my light intensity from low 300 ppfd to around 480 a week ago
If anyone has seen this problem in their plants plz chime in.

Using : soil with craft blend
10 gal grass root pots
filtered water with quillaja
Big 6 (used one time at half dose)
Temp is around 78/80
Humidity around 70/72

Nutty sKunK · Saturday at 5:31 AM

noob4560 said:
Over the past week my plants leaves are slowly losing color and the new growth is twisting and curling up and one plant showing yellow tips. I did a slurry test and the plants are reading 350 to 380 ppm I did a feed of 1/4 cup of buildasoil craft blend and a light feed of cal mag 2 days ago but the plants are still slowly losing color. Plants are 7 weeks old from seed and have been in their pots for 4 weeks now since transplant. Not sure if this is light related but I did raise my light intensity from low 300 ppfd to around 480 a week ago
If anyone has seen this problem in their plants plz chime in.

Using : soil with craft blend
10 gal grass root pots
filtered water with quillaja
Big 6 (used one time at half dose)
Temp is around 78/80
Humidity around 70/72

As a rough guide;

Yellowing top = too much. Yellowing bottom = not enough.

Looking at the plant from bottom to top it looks like it hit a hot patch of K which turns the leaf tips yellow.

The curling though is only due to heat stress or pH fluctuations.

To get an accurate slurry test you need to pour loads of water through. For example i flushed a 5L pot with 5L of water. On the 3rd-4th round of watering was max EC!

Ignore that it’ll drive you crazy.

Might I add this is for soil/peat based mix. Coco is a different medium and measuring runoff is helpful

.Smoke · Saturday at 5:38 AM

Too many nutes and it looks like they've been kept too wet.
Less feed/more dryback between waterings. (Runoff = 10-20% of volume fed)
At that age you should bump ppfd to 600-650.

Hollatchaboy · Saturday at 5:53 AM

.Smoke said:
Too many nutes and it looks like they've been kept too wet.
Less feed/more dryback between waterings. (Runoff = 10-20% of volume fed)
At that age you should bump ppfd to 600-650.

Ops using dry amendments. (S)he shouldn't water to runoff.

Hollatchaboy · Saturday at 6:16 AM

noob4560 said:
Over the past week my plants leaves are slowly losing color and the new growth is twisting and curling up and one plant showing yellow tips. I did a slurry test and the plants are reading 350 to 380 ppm I did a feed of 1/4 cup of buildasoil craft blend and a light feed of cal mag 2 days ago but the plants are still slowly losing color. Plants are 7 weeks old from seed and have been in their pots for 4 weeks now since transplant. Not sure if this is light related but I did raise my light intensity from low 300 ppfd to around 480 a week ago
If anyone has seen this problem in their plants plz chime in.

Using : soil with craft blend
10 gal grass root pots
filtered water with quillaja
Big 6 (used one time at half dose)
Temp is around 78/80
Humidity around 70/72

Ok, to start off, you need to figure out if you're going to use bottled nutes(calmag), or dry amendments(craft blend). You shouldn't need calmag, if you're using a balanced quality soil, and craft blend.

If you want to use bottled nutes, I would suggest using coco coir as your medium, next run. It's more suited to bottled nutes, but if you want to run organic soil, then stick to dry amendments. It works better that way.

What soil are you using?

Have you been watering to runoff?

480 ppfd, can be a lil high in veg, if using leds(strain dependent), but don't go over 600 ppfd until flower starts.

Anytime you're raising light intensity, do it gradually. Don't just jack it up 200 ppfd in one shot. Let the plants acclimate to increased light intensity, slowly.

MissinThe90’sStrains · Saturday at 6:30 AM

Take notes and keep some sort of journal for yourself. Anytime you do anything to your garden, write it down, take measurements, take pictures, and include specifics. Often, you can go back and see that something you did stressed the plant. It can take a couple grows to understand your soil mix, especially if you’re running different phenos, so be patient and thorough.

Remember, with dry amendments and Organics, anything you add won’t be taken up immediately - it needs time to be broken down and become available to the plant. If what you did was the correct action, you probably still won’t see results for about a week.

How were the plants doing since their last transplant? Did you give them anything extra, or were they feeding exclusively from the soil mix? Were they healthy and happy, or showing any deficiency? It’s possible that hungry plants simply ate through their buffet. It’s also possible that the environmental conditions are out of whack and the microbes are refusing to work - too wet, too cold, ph out of line, etc. Did you allow your soil to “cook” for an appropriate amount of time?

Larger pots can act as more of a buffer, and are less effected by small environmental changes. Check your environment and check to see if the plants are waterlogged. Do your slurry test and check your ph. Over time, organic material breaking down can drop ph. It’s possible that there’s too much of something in there, and it threw off the ph as it broke down. Do you have anything in your mix to buffer ph, like dolomite lime?

How’s your water? Is it very hard, softened, high ph, RO? The best water source you can use is “pure” water - low tds (under 100 ppm) and with a neutral ph. The less carbonates, salt, chelated nutrients with acids, or ph adjusters your microbes have to deal with, the better. At the end of the day, there are a lot of variables to keep track of and manage.

The better your notes, the more you will get to know your grow, and be able identify when and where the issues started.

noob4560 · Saturday at 6:53 AM

Hollatchaboy said:
Ok, to start off, you need to figure out if you're going to use bottled nutes(calmag), or dry amendments(craft blend). You shouldn't need calmag, if you're using a balanced quality soil, and craft blend.

If you want to use bottled nutes, I would suggest using coco coir as your medium, next run. It's more suited to bottled nutes, but if you want to run organic soil, then stick to dry amendments. It works better that way.

What soil are you using?

Have you been watering to runoff?

480 ppfd, can be a lil high in veg, if using leds(strain dependent), but don't go over 600 ppfd until flower starts.

Anytime you're raising light intensity, do it gradually. Don't just jack it up 200 ppfd in one shot. Let the plants acclimate to increased light intensity, slowly.hi thank you for the reply!

Hi thank you for the reply! The cal mag I used is organic I figured that since ppm was around 350 and the dry amendments take a while to brake down that would give them a little something. I didn't give them alot though.

Soil is fox farm happy frog/pumice/compost

I didn't gradually raise lights i just turned them up after reading a ppfd chart saying they can be around 600 so I just shot for somewhere in the middle from where I first started (300 ppfd) I'm thinking this is why I'm seeing the curled leaves but im not sure if dialed the light back to 300/350 last night.

I'm can't help but think they are hungry. They are good sized plants for my 3x3 and are growing fast. The yellowing in-between vains looks like a mag deficiency

noob4560 · Saturday at 7:10 AM

MissinThe90’sStrains said:
Take notes and keep some sort of journal for yourself. Anytime you do anything to your garden, write it down, take measurements, take pictures, and include specifics. Often, you can go back and see that something you did stressed the plant. It can take a couple grows to understand your soil mix, especially if you’re running different phenos, so be patient and thorough.

Remember, with dry amendments and Organics, anything you add won’t be taken up immediately - it needs time to be broken down and become available to the plant. If what you did was the correct action, you probably still won’t see results for about a week.

How were the plants doing since their last transplant? Did you give them anything extra, or were they feeding exclusively from the soil mix? Were they healthy and happy, or showing any deficiency? It’s possible that hungry plants simply ate through their buffet. It’s also possible that the environmental conditions are out of whack and the microbes are refusing to work - too wet, too cold, ph out of line, etc. Did you allow your soil to “cook” for an appropriate amount of time?

Larger pots can act as more of a buffer, and are less effected by small environmental changes. Check your environment and check to see if the plants are waterlogged. Do your slurry test and check your ph. Over time, organic material breaking down can drop ph. It’s possible that there’s too much of something in there, and it threw off the ph as it broke down. Do you have anything in your mix to buffer ph, like dolomite lime?

How’s your water? Is it very hard, softened, high ph, RO? The best water source you can use is “pure” water - low tds (under 100 ppm) and with a neutral ph. The less carbonates, salt, chelated nutrients with acids, or ph adjusters your microbes have to deal with, the better. At the end of the day, there are a lot of variables to keep track of and manage.

The better your notes, the more you will get to know your grow, and be able identify when and where the issues started.

I definitely do need to take notes!! I might just wanna wait to see if the plants will start taking up the dry amendments. They were exploding with growth after transplant all the way up to this point and the soil cooked for over a month before use. I did crank up the lights and gave them a SUPER diluted dose of big 6 but im thinking they ate through the buffet with how fast they are growing tho.
I have really soft well water but I've just recently started using filtered water and I've never seen signs of mag deficiency and I think this is what I may be looking at. Also soil ph for all plants are 6.1/6.2

Hollatchaboy · Saturday at 11:57 AM

noob4560 said:
Hi thank you for the reply! The cal mag I used is organic I figured that since ppm was around 350 and the dry amendments take a while to brake down that would give them a little something. I didn't give them alot though.

Soil is fox farm happy frog/pumice/compost

I didn't gradually raise lights i just turned them up after reading a ppfd chart saying they can be around 600 so I just shot for somewhere in the middle from where I first started (300 ppfd) I'm thinking this is why I'm seeing the curled leaves but im not sure if dialed the light back to 300/350 last night.

I'm can't help but think they are hungry. They are good sized plants for my 3x3 and are growing fast. The yellowing in-between vains looks like a mag deficiency

Yea it looks like mag deficiency, but throwing a lot of ppfd at the plant will cause it to uptake more nutrients, so it could just be from pushing too hard, with not enough nutrition for that light level.

It's a balancing act, in a sense, between light intensity, and nutrient levels.

Hollatchaboy · Saturday at 12:46 PM

noob4560 said:
Hi thank you for the reply! The cal mag I used is organic I figured that since ppm was around 350 and the dry amendments take a while to brake down that would give them a little something. I didn't give them alot though.

Soil is fox farm happy frog/pumice/compost

I didn't gradually raise lights i just turned them up after reading a ppfd chart saying they can be around 600 so I just shot for somewhere in the middle from where I first started (300 ppfd) I'm thinking this is why I'm seeing the curled leaves but im not sure if dialed the light back to 300/350 last night.

I'm can't help but think they are hungry. They are good sized plants for my 3x3 and are growing fast. The yellowing in-between vains looks like a mag deficiency

Also, the trick with top dressing soil, is to top dress, before the soil becomes deplete. I estimate my top dress to take about 2 weeks break down, so I schedule it, so that my potted soil still has nutrition, while top dress is breaking down.

There's other factors at play as well. How much microbial life is in the soil, whether or not you use worms, moisture levels, mulch, they all play a part in breaking down organic matter.

noob4560 · Saturday at 2:16 PM

Hollatchaboy said:
Also, the trick with top dressing soil, is to top dress, before the soil becomes deplete. I estimate my top dress to take about 2 weeks break down, so I schedule it, so that my potted soil still has nutrition, while top dress is breaking down.

There's other factors at play as well. How much microbial life is in the soil, whether or not you use worms, moisture levels, mulch, they all play a part in breaking down organic matter.

That's funny you said something about the light and nutrient levels being balanced because I was just reading on that. I still have alot to learn that's for sure. This is my first time using 10 gal pots so I thought it would take longer for the plants to fill out and use the nutrients up but I guess I was wrong. I am using worms and I'm keeping moisture levels in a happy place using ecowitts. Honestly this is my first time running with soil that's so booming with life and also my first time using craft blend but ima get this dialed in!

I do have one more question.
When top dressing is it common for your soil ppm to shoot really high afterwards??? Like to 2000/3000 ppm. I've used alot of different dry amendments and this seems to always happen even when feeding recommended doses.

Hollatchaboy · Saturday at 2:32 PM

noob4560 said:
That's funny you said something about the light and nutrient levels being balanced because I was just reading on that. I still have alot to learn that's for sure. This is my first time using 10 gal pots so I thought it would take longer for the plants to fill out and use the nutrients up but I guess I was wrong. I am using worms and I'm keeping moisture levels in a happy place using ecowitts. Honestly this is my first time running with soil that's so booming with life and also my first time using craft blend but ima get this dialed in!

I do have one more question.
When top dressing is it common for your soil ppm to shoot really high afterwards??? Like to 2000/3000 ppm. I've used alot of different dry amendments and this seems to always happen even when feeding recommended doses.

So 10 gallons isn't bad, but you definitely still need to add more nutrition. Especially if you veg them for an extended amount of time.

A good way to battle deficiency in soil, is add more bag soil. It has broken down nutrient already. Check it this thread....

Thread 'Hey , Dummy Grow a Plant - Simple Soil Container Growing'

Dec 14, 2023

Container gardening involves growing plants in pots or containers rather than directly in the ground. For simple soil container growing, choose a well-draining potting mix, place it in containers with drainage holes, and select appropriate containers based on plant size. Ensure proper watering and sunlight for your specific plants, and consider using fertilizer as needed. Container gardening is versatile and suitable for various plants, making it accessible for both beginners and experienced gardeners.

This thread is for those looking for a simple , easy , no-frills method...

I do something similar, but kinda opposite, but only because I use a sip. I use the ffhf at the bottom, and top dress with ffof.
At flip, I add dr earth flower girl, and ffof. I continue that every 2 weeks until late flower.
I also top water recharge once a week.

Also, if you don't use mulch already, start using it.

Ive never measured runoff, so I can't answer that question, but a good rule of thumb for living organic soil, is never water to runoff. Water in about 5-10% of soil volume.

MissinThe90’sStrains · Saturday at 2:33 PM

It’s possible that ppm shoots up because with top dressing you’re adding a lot of volume of stuff. The stuff isn’t instantly available to the plant though, like it is with chelated salt nutrients.

Hollatchaboy · Saturday at 2:39 PM

MissinThe90’sStrains said:
It’s possible that ppm shoots up because with top dressing you’re adding a lot of volume of stuff. The stuff isn’t instantly available to the plant though, like it is with chelated salt nutrients.

Some of it can be readily available, but most of it won't.

Reading ppm, just means reading electrical conductivity of the water. The more salt in the water, the more it can conduct electricity, so I believe adding top dressing, is going to add some salt, but not a lot. Just my opinion on the last part though. I have no evidence of it actually being the case.

noob4560 · 2025-03-30T14:18:31-0600

Hollatchaboy said:
Some of it can be readily available, but most of it won't.

Reading ppm, just means reading electrical conductivity of the water. The more salt in the water, the more it can conduct electricity, so I believe adding top dressing, is going to add some salt, but not a lot. Just my opinion on the last part though. I have no evidence of it actually being the case.

Thank you for the info and taking the time out of your day to reply man I really appreciate it! The article you posted above was a really good read and I'll definitely be reading it again before my next grow!

The girls are looking great after the feeding and light adjustment. Also dropped the humidity a bit! Gonna give them a few days to recover then off to flower

Need help plz

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