new to indoor growing

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greenbob988

New Member

  • Hey guys and girls,

    I have 2 outdoor scrog soil grows from seed under my belt using subcool's super soil (major props to sub) and I want to get into hydro.

    I have 2 5x5x6'8 grow tents with 1000W switchable Lumatek digital ballasts with a cool tube reflector and a fat boy of a carbon filter in each that I got from one of my buddies.

    What I want to do is only grow one (1) plant and scrog it out in each box to start a perpetual grow. I in no way shape or form want to go over 3 plants (1 of which will be a clone) at any time

    Looking to veg for 10 weeks, @ week 7 take a clone and start to veg that in the other tent or in a small grow box just while I wait for the other to finish flowering. Indoors these plants will hopefully fill an entire 4x4 screen by the end of veg or first two weeks of flower.

    Growing C99 which takes ~60 days to flower.

    Now what I want to know specifically:

    1) Is there a hydroponic system that can handle 1 plant vegged for 10 weeks and flowered for another 60 days without having to transplant? BluJay and others recomended a large DWC, any other ideas?

    2) I want to make an enclosed system and hang my carbon filter from the ceiling with bungees; I see some pics where it is hung vertically and other where it is horizontal... which works better?

    3) Should I set my CO2 line to come in behind my oscillating fan or should I run it over the canopy of the plants?

    4) How many oscillating fans should I use to mimic the wind outdoors?


    Any help at all would be greatly appreciated but please remember the plant limit. I know I can get more weight faster by doing a large number of smaller plants but I do not want the legal risk of having a large number of plants.

    Thanks for all of the help!!

    P.S. I have attached a drawing of what I kind of want to do in the room. The carbon filter and the cool tube are meant to be parallel to each other mounted 3 inches below the ceiling. Sorry for the quality it was made in paint.


    Untitled.jpg​


 
karousing

karousing

Well-Known Member
1 - 20 gallon container should be more then enough, you can go 25 or 30 if you want to be on the safe side. you might want to install a simple turn valve at the bottom to help with draining/changing it though.

3 - i would say the fan would give a nice mixed air supply while running it over the canopy might give it a slightly richer co2 environment. you could also potentially lose a large amount of co2 to the fan mixing and carbon filter exhaust while the canopy would give a concentrated amount over the area you want it. (this can be negated by turning off the exhaust while co2 is being distributed)

4- 4x4 plant? 1. switch up the cycle or get one that can mimic wind (it will change its settings between high medium and slow throughout the day (i personally use approx .5-1 pc fan per small plant.)

5 - dont forget the airstones, the ph up and down (look up potassium silicate as ph up. approximate 2-1 ratio of ph up-ph down equivilance. when changing water/nutes add ph up first to give it a stable base, then ph down to the correct level 5.6-6.2 then your nutrients, follow the instructions on the bottle unless your making your own.always check ph after to make sure you are still in the proper ranges), for a large plant you might want to consider in resevoir water movement device (look up aquarium acc.) install a valve to help with draining and changing as it will probably be difficult to move the res with a 4x4 screen over it.... i cant think of anything else atm but hopefully this was helpful
 
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greenbob988

New Member
So I am guessing that I should elevate my res ? I ask because I do really like the idea of putting a drain fitting on the base. 25-30 gallons will really hurt my back otherwise.

Also your information is really helpful. Thank you
 
karousing

karousing

Well-Known Member
you can elevate it by about 3-4 inches and if you want it might be a good idea to put one near the top on the side to help with refills.

you will need 2 grommets to secure the hole and fixtures, about 2-5 feet of flexible 1/2 or 3/4 inch tubing (this will all go on the bottom to make it easier to drain by directing the flow), 1 turn on/off valve which will be on the side/bottom of the resevoir (prevents sediment and nutrients from staying in the tube and going to waste) and a funnel or whatever is easiest for your design on the top. that way you can open the valve, use the hose to direct the current to sink/bucket/whatever you are using, then fill via the funnel near the top and voila! oh and waterproof glue/cement. the glue is VERY important..... trust... and np dude, its all about sharing the knowledge to make a better world
 
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