Organic Cal-Mag Nutrient
- Thread starter Chalwa
- Start date
doc111
Well-Known Member
trichlone fiend
New Member
...alfa meal kelp (or liquid seaweed) has over 65 essential trace minerals, vitamins and amino acids>>> http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LUAL8S/ref=asc_df_B002LUAL8S1229898?tag=the004-20&creative=395261&creativeASIN=B002LUAL8S&linkCode=asn
Yes, Powdered Dolomite Lime.
Supplies cal/mag and keeps your soil buffered to that sweet spot of 6.5-6.8.
Cost is ~$5 for a 40# bag at Lowes.
Wet
mrgreenbudz
Well-Known Member
interesting. So how much Dolomite would you use for a hole that is roughly 5 ft x 5 ft? Would it be best to mix in to my water and then water the plants?
Getting really weird N readings showing almost none. I'm outdoors in large holes. Been doing strickly organics, teas, molasses ect. Confused how my soil can be so far out of whack this season.
Getting really weird N readings showing almost none. I'm outdoors in large holes. Been doing strickly organics, teas, molasses ect. Confused how my soil can be so far out of whack this season.
trichlone fiend
New Member
...there are many types of lime... Here's a good link concerning lime >>> http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/cabarrus/staff/dgoforth/limefaq.html#L1
vivalaboss
Well-Known Member
i think for a little boost of calcium you can take egg shells and put them into a gallon of water and let them sit for a couple of days, then water your plants for a little calcium boost...i usually take egg shells and crush em down and add them to my soil before planting...seems to work pretty well....anyone else use egg shells for calcium??
vivalaboss
Well-Known Member
and i believe you can just add epsom salt for magnesium....1 tbsp per gallon dissolved in hot water should do the trick....
woodsmaneh!
Well-Known Member
Dolomite lime is best used in the fall to condition the soil for next year. It is known as a hot soil conditioner and will burn roots so be careful.
Peace
Peace
6 eggshells powdered in a coffe bean grinder, 1/2 teaspoon of epsom salt, one gallon of chlorine free water. Give each plant 16 ounces each, after watering or feeding. Or just buy GH's organic cal-mag, and follow the directions on the label. Cause sometimes, it's ok to be lazy.
Jerry Garcia
Well-Known Member
What about agricultural or garden lime, that only contains calcium (and not magnesium)? Is that considered a hot conditioner as well? I've been mixing the garden lime in with my soil and then immediately transplanting into it without much problem, though I've recently had a spot of mag deficiency on a couple plants and was thinking of switching to dolomite.
Would I not be able to use dolomite in the same fashion as I was garden lime?
Use it the same as the garden lime.
I disagree with calling the ground dolo lime 'hot'. It's ground up rock and nowhere near a fast release anything. Hydrated or 'quick' lime is hot and I'll agree with that, but it's been chemically altered and should be avoided.
I've grown in straight crushed limestone. Granted, it was Key Limes and it was oolitic limestone, which is mostly what SoFla is made of and the Key Limes grow in it naturally. It comes from ancient coral reefs.
Wet
I disagree with calling the ground dolo lime 'hot'. It's ground up rock and nowhere near a fast release anything. Hydrated or 'quick' lime is hot and I'll agree with that, but it's been chemically altered and should be avoided.
I've grown in straight crushed limestone. Granted, it was Key Limes and it was oolitic limestone, which is mostly what SoFla is made of and the Key Limes grow in it naturally. It comes from ancient coral reefs.
Wet
Matt Rize
Hashmaster
agreed on normal versus quick. Good point. And Way Cool on the oolitic limestone.
woodsmaneh!
Well-Known Member
IMHO most people make things worse when they try to treat a deficiency head on, in other words they screw it up. I never recommend treating plants for just one issue, most times your wrong and do more harm. I say this as the mobility of some elements depends on the availability of other elements in the plant. For example: when the level of nitrogen drops it causes other elements to lock up. Magnesium is a good example, low nitrogen and the mag locks. [FONT="]
Most bags of lime carry the recommendation to use in the fall so it can age, they also recommend you don't use lime and fertilizer together in the same year. Lots of people mix and use but that does not mean it's right, there may be some that can be used right away but I have yet see any. Dolomite Lime has way to much magnesium in it so I never use it. The lime industry has done a good job of convincing us we need it but tossing in line is more likely to upset the balance than help. There are much better ways to get what you need than Dolo. If your looking for calcium then use gypsum to add more calcium.
Another good additive is Green Sand or glacial rock. Green sand contains iron-potassium silicate, 7% potash, sulphur, boron, iron, manganese and zink. It comes for the ocean and is made of seashells and organic matter. It will improve the tilth of the soil and increase the water holding capacity of sandy soils. You can apply anytime. You can find it at garden centers.
Here’s The Important Part[/FONT]
The main point I want to make is that even if minerals are leaching from your soil, it doesn’t make sense to blindly go back adding just two of them (the calcium and magnesium in dolomite lime) without knowing you need them. You might already have enough or too much of one or both of them. We need to think a little more than that when organic gardening.
Your soil needs a calcium:magnesium of somewhere between 7:1 (sandier soils) and 10:1 (clayier soils). Outside of this range, your soil will have water problems, your plants will have health problems and insect and disease problems, and you will have weed problems.
One of your most important goals in the garden is to add specific mineral fertilizers to move the calcium to magnesium ratio towards this range. As a side note, I understand it may seem strange to some that we should have to do this, but our soils are way out of balance and we’re trying to grow things that wouldn’t naturally grow there, so we have to do this.
The problem with dolomite lime? It has a calcium:magnesium ratio of 2:1. That’s way too much magnesium for most soils. Magnesium is certainly an essential mineral. Too much of it, however, causes many problems, compaction being one of the most common, but also pest and weed problems.
So if you add this to your garden every year, chances are you’re just causing more compaction and weed problems.
When Should You Use Dolomite Lime?
You should only use dolomite lime when you have a soil test showing a huge deficiency of magnesium in your soil.
Even then, calcitic lime (calcium carbonate) is generally the way to go because it has a small amount of magnesium and often a calcium:magnesium ratio of about 10:1, with a calcium content 34% to 40% or more.
I use calcitic lime regularly in my organic gardening, but even then, only when I need it. A soil test is the main way to find out if you need it.[FONT="][/FONT]
Most bags of lime carry the recommendation to use in the fall so it can age, they also recommend you don't use lime and fertilizer together in the same year. Lots of people mix and use but that does not mean it's right, there may be some that can be used right away but I have yet see any. Dolomite Lime has way to much magnesium in it so I never use it. The lime industry has done a good job of convincing us we need it but tossing in line is more likely to upset the balance than help. There are much better ways to get what you need than Dolo. If your looking for calcium then use gypsum to add more calcium.
Another good additive is Green Sand or glacial rock. Green sand contains iron-potassium silicate, 7% potash, sulphur, boron, iron, manganese and zink. It comes for the ocean and is made of seashells and organic matter. It will improve the tilth of the soil and increase the water holding capacity of sandy soils. You can apply anytime. You can find it at garden centers.
Here’s The Important Part[/FONT]
The main point I want to make is that even if minerals are leaching from your soil, it doesn’t make sense to blindly go back adding just two of them (the calcium and magnesium in dolomite lime) without knowing you need them. You might already have enough or too much of one or both of them. We need to think a little more than that when organic gardening.
Your soil needs a calcium:magnesium of somewhere between 7:1 (sandier soils) and 10:1 (clayier soils). Outside of this range, your soil will have water problems, your plants will have health problems and insect and disease problems, and you will have weed problems.
One of your most important goals in the garden is to add specific mineral fertilizers to move the calcium to magnesium ratio towards this range. As a side note, I understand it may seem strange to some that we should have to do this, but our soils are way out of balance and we’re trying to grow things that wouldn’t naturally grow there, so we have to do this.
The problem with dolomite lime? It has a calcium:magnesium ratio of 2:1. That’s way too much magnesium for most soils. Magnesium is certainly an essential mineral. Too much of it, however, causes many problems, compaction being one of the most common, but also pest and weed problems.
So if you add this to your garden every year, chances are you’re just causing more compaction and weed problems.
When Should You Use Dolomite Lime?
You should only use dolomite lime when you have a soil test showing a huge deficiency of magnesium in your soil.
Even then, calcitic lime (calcium carbonate) is generally the way to go because it has a small amount of magnesium and often a calcium:magnesium ratio of about 10:1, with a calcium content 34% to 40% or more.
I use calcitic lime regularly in my organic gardening, but even then, only when I need it. A soil test is the main way to find out if you need it.[FONT="][/FONT]
Good post! I really disagree with nothing there.
Wish I could source calcitic lime locally. Been looking, just not happening. Used to get the 'screenings' ( from the first screen making aggregate for concrete), for $25 a dump truck load back in Fl. This was oolitic limestone and almost all calcium. Not where I live now though.
I also use Greensand, rock dust, kelp meal and Azomite.
How I lime my garden soil is far different from my peat based container mixes. Yes, I lime it in the fall (if needed) with the pellets and add my other stuff in the spring.
I yap about the dolomite lime for a couple of reasons.
First, it is generally available. Oyster shell flour is great, try and find it in the Smokey Mtns. LOL
Second, most are noobs, both to growing and organics and 90%+ of the time, they are having both pH problems and cal/mag issues due to pH lockout. I'm just trying for the quickest, easiest fix and dolo will generally do the job.
Let them refine their additives as their knowledge increases.
Wet
Wish I could source calcitic lime locally. Been looking, just not happening. Used to get the 'screenings' ( from the first screen making aggregate for concrete), for $25 a dump truck load back in Fl. This was oolitic limestone and almost all calcium. Not where I live now though.
I also use Greensand, rock dust, kelp meal and Azomite.
How I lime my garden soil is far different from my peat based container mixes. Yes, I lime it in the fall (if needed) with the pellets and add my other stuff in the spring.
I yap about the dolomite lime for a couple of reasons.
First, it is generally available. Oyster shell flour is great, try and find it in the Smokey Mtns. LOL
Second, most are noobs, both to growing and organics and 90%+ of the time, they are having both pH problems and cal/mag issues due to pH lockout. I'm just trying for the quickest, easiest fix and dolo will generally do the job.
Let them refine their additives as their knowledge increases.
Wet
REALSTYLES
Well-Known Member
I use 1 tsp Epsom salt and 1 tbsp Molasses per gallon for my Cal/Mag 100% organic and cheap!!!