Organic Hydroponics Nutrient Formulas and other info.

Cow Tea

Active Member
Researching organic hydroponics can be difficult as there is not a lot of information out there. Right now I'm doing an organic DWC grow, but I'll admit I'm just kinda winging it. I've been adding nutrients as I've been adding water, and with no rez changes so far (I'm in my 6th-7th week of flowering [somewhere around there]). I don't have a PPM meter because I thought that they only measure salt content, but I think I'll get one for the next grow, based off of some information I found today.

The point of this thread is to share information on organic hydroponics as I find them, so that people looking to grow this way at least have some info to refer to. Obviously this is not my work, so I don't take credit - nor am I saying I've tried any of this stuff, or that it is true ...this is just for reference.

I used Window's speech recognition (in Windows 7) to transcribe a section of a book that I bought today. If you'd like the source, I'll PM it to you (I'm not too sure what the copyright rules are here). This excerpt overviews some organic formulas for hydroponic systems:
 

Cow Tea

Active Member
Organic hydroponics


The formulas in this section are designed for mediums the drain well such as perlite coconut fibers and clay pebbles. These formulas will also work fine for soiless mix such as Sunshine mix and Jiffy mix. These have been formulated to give flowering plants all the necessary primary and secondary elements, as well as the trace elements necessary for vigorous growth. No salts will accumulate with the organic ingredients, thus providing a better tasting smoke with the end product. If quality is an issue and so is volume, the following sample formulas are definitely worth a try.

For complete control, cheap and light perlite is recommended for the medium because it does not alter the solutions PH and fertilizers do not cling to it. Perlite also allows the lots of air to get in the spaces when solution drains through it. However, perlite needs regular irrigation, such as a few waterings a day, or continuous irrigation. Not for the sake of food necessity, but for the fact that perlite sends out a dust. This dust and can collect on the top of leaves.

Clay is a good medium, but it is heavy and a little expensive. It is negatively charged and will hold some positive ions such as calcium and potassium. All mediums can be flush with plain water - or low PPM - regularly. For example, a grower can feed for six days and flush once a week during veg and flower.

Materials such as clay that alter the PH can be of use to keep the PH down. Also, holding some water and nutrients can be good too, especially between feedings when the water is drained from the growing medium.


Vegetative growth

Any recommended rate from an organic fertilizer manufacturer should work fine. Feeding needs to be more precise during bloom. If chemicals are used during vegetative growth, and organics are used during bloom, nobody will be able to tell the difference from a garden grown only with organics. This is a way to make tasty produce on a skinny budget.


Vegetative growth formula A

Manufactures recommended rate for Sea Mix 3-2-2, or 2/3 recommended rate for Alaska fish fertilizer, combined with the recommended rate for liquid kelp. In addition, PH up or PH down can be added until the PH is between 6.0 and 6.5. Adding epsom salts (magnesium sulfate), ½ to 1-teaspoon per 5 gallons will help combat magnesium and sulfur deficiencies. Special note: all PH testing and addition of the PH up or PH down is optional, although recommended. Hydrogen peroxide usage at 1 to 3 ml per gallon is recommended to keep the medium clean.


Vegetative growth formula B

When it comes time for the second feeding, the fertilizing can be repeated. Here is an optional solution to use: C mix, 2/3 manufacturer's recommended rate humic acid (made from organic molecules created from the breakdown of organic matter) at 1/5 to 2/3 recommended rate. Add PH up or PH down until the PH its 6.0 to 6.5.


Vegetative growth formula C

Earth Juice or Meta Naturals products applied at the recommended rate.


Flowering

A grower can take any commercial fertilizer and mix it at the recommended rate and the results will be fine, but in order to grow specific plants productively and with the lowest cost, making custom formulations is the way to go. All big scale farms know the importance of making their own fertilizers, which is a major expense and once the farm is set up.

After the grower can acquire the necessary components to make a custom blend, the next step is to mix a simple mixture.

During flowering, a grower cannot afford to be sloppy. Feeding is more critical and plants need more nutrients when they're producing flowers. Here are some simple formulas for this important stage of growth.


Bloom formula A

1. 4 teaspoons per gallon of earth juice bloom.
2. 4 teaspoons per gallon of earth juice grow.
3. 4 teaspoons of bat guano per gallon. One and should be placed into a teabag or added directly into the tank. Bat guano can cause stomach aches when it is used in a recirculating hydroponic system, even with minimal exposure. For that reason, using the replacement (potassium phosphate) from the chemical cheat sheet (below) is safer than using bat guano. Or, more organically, using more capital Greenfire earth juice bloom is another option.
4. Growth plus (Nitrozyme) at 1/2 teaspoon per gallon.
5. Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) at 1/2 to 1 g per quart (liter). Epsom salts should be dissolved in warm water, before adding to nutrient solution.
6. 1 g per solution of sulfate of potash (potassium sulfate) or 2 g per quart (liter) of wood ashes. Sulfate of potash should be mix separately in hot water for it to completely dissolve.
7. Finally, PH is adjusted to 5.5 to 6.5 with natural PH up or PH down.


Options: a grower can add the following to the above formula before adjusting PH.
1. Humic acid at 1 teaspoon per gallon or at 1/4 to 1/3 recommended rate.
2. For other trace minerals a grower can add half to full recommended rate of liquid kelp.
3. Adding 1 tablespoon of molasses and 2 teaspoons of yeast into 1 quart (liter) is a cheap homemade catalyst. The mixture should be dissolved before it is added to the tank. It will add enzymes and helped to combat upward PH drift


The bloom formula solution should sit one or two nights so that PH stabilizes. Running a pump in the solution can help keep the solution agitated. Sometimes, some of the materials will flow to the bottom, such as bat guano, but most of this formula will stay nicely mixed. The PH of this solution will drift less upward the longer it sits in the nutrient tank. The PH should be monitored daily an adjusted to between 5.5 and 6.5, using either a natural PH up or a natural PH down.


Chemical cheat sheet

1. 1/2 to 1 g of calcium nitrate can be used instead of earth juice grow and earth juice bloom.
2. A grower can use chelated trace minerals (1/2 teaspoon for every 5 gallons) while canceling the usage of Growth Plus (Nitrozyme) and Pyro Clay.
3. Using potassium phosphate at 1/2 to 3/4 gram per quart (liter) allows a grower to eliminate the bat guano. The potassium levels can be changed during various stages of bloom to accommodate phosphorus levels.


Bloom formula B

1. 4 g per quart (liter) of pure earthworm castings. Worm castings can be wrapped in panty hose, a teabag, or cheesecloth. Squeezing the castings in the bag periodically helps to release the fertilizer more quickly
2. 4 teaspoons per gallon of Earth Juice Bloom.
3. teaspoons of bat guano per gallon. Guano can be put in a teabag or pantyhose. Guano should be squeezed periodically to release the fertilizer. (warning: a formula with bat guano of that is recirculating may cause stomach aches)
4. Growth plus (Nitrozyme) at 1 teaspoon per gallon.
5. Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) at 1/2 to 1 g per quart (liter). Epsom salts should be dissolved in warm water before adding them to a nutrient solution.
6. 1 g per gallon of sulfate of potash (potassium sulfate) or 2 g per quart (liter) of wood ashes sulfate of potash should be mixed separately in hot water two completely dissolve the crystals before adding them to the nutrient solution.

The PH should be checked daily and adjusted to 5.5 to 6.5. A lower number is better for an up or drifting PH.


Options:

1. Pyro clay can be added at 1 g per liter.
2.Humic acid can be added at 1 teaspoon per gallon or at 1/4 to 1/3 the recommended rate.
3. For other trace minerals, add half to full recommended rate of liquid kelp.
4. Adding 1 tablespoon of molasses and 2 tablespoons of yeast into 1 quart (liter) works as a catalyst. The mixture should be dissolved before it is added to the tank. The mixture will add enzymes and help combat upward PH drift.


Chemical cheat sheet

The first two substitutions must be made.
1. A grower may use 1/2 to 1 g of calcium nitrate and the worm castings and earth juice bloom can be eliminated from the original recipe.
2. Potassium phosphate at 1/2 to 3/4 g per quart (liter) can be added instead of bat guano. The potassium levels can be changed during various stages of bloom to accommodate phosphorus levels.
3. Using chelated trace minerals (1/2 teaspoon for every 5 gallons) can cancel the usage of growth plus (Nitrozyme) and pyro clay.


Special notes-for all organic hydroponic formulas

Solution should be topped up regularly (IE daily to weekly) with plain water or nutrient solution, depending on how the PH, PPM, and water levels changes.

The PH of the solution should be checked and modified after adding liquid to the reservoir. Drawing a top-up line in the reservoir with a permanent felt tip pen helps to make topping of the reservoir a brainless exercise. Large reservoirs that can run a few days to a week with proper PH and PPM make things even simpler.

The organic formulas I've given should be near 1500 PPM when read on a TDS meter after they have been mixed if the water supply reads at zero PPM. A PPM meter can be used as a reference meter. A grower should take readings once in awhile to see if the PPM goes up or down. Move

Growers that make a reservoir big enough to contain all of the nutrients and holds a constant PH and PPM until the reservoirs changed have great results. This is not the most cost effective but it is the easiest feeding method.

If the PPM stays the same or goes down just slightly, adding the regular solution that would be used normally can allow for minimal maintenance since the PH and PPM should be a desired levels. The grower may get lucky and find that he just needs to add some more new solution to the old solution to get great results without having to dump out the old batch. This is a money saving tip. Making a solution that keeps a constant PPM (or only slightly lowering PPM) and is PH buffered gives the plants the exact elements they need until the reservoir becomes empty is the path to feeding perfection. This is perfect gardening if a grower can know exactly what to feed his plans when the solution runs low. This is expert territory.

If the PPM goes up, more water should be added to the tank to dilute the solution. With this approach complete changes of the solution are recommended, especially for larger plants that use up more nutrient than water.

After a couple of weeks, and organic hydroponic solution can bring on odors, depending on the fertilizer (e.g. stinky bat guano).

If the PPM meter is used in an organic or chemical organic garden, what works is changing the solution when the PPM drops to 1/3 to 1/2 original strength (IE PPM drops to 500 to 750 PPM). The waste can be poured out anywhere it in an outdoor garden. Or additional amounts of the same formula can be added from time to time to replenish nutrients, if there is no smell. For the trained eye, individual nutrients can be added, such as earth juice grow or bat guano, as deficiencies are spotted.

Nitrogen consumption is probably the heaviest of all the elements in the formulations. Changing the solution and replenish in all nutrients is the best move to keep things simple.
 

Cow Tea

Active Member
Here is another article about hydro-organics. http://www.cannabisculture.com/articles/1534.html.
I've used this method of separating the roots into part soil, part water, but mine didn't work out for MJ because my system was flawed. I've gotten it to work for strawberries, but not all that well... then again I didn't stick to the article's guidelines. I think this could work well, but it seems like the best way to do it would be to have a second rez that held the nutrient solution and maybe dripped the solution onto the soil layer. This is really for someone that likes experimenting and wouldn't be bad off if it didn't work quite right the first time.
 
Top