1. Light. If you don't have a PAR meter, borrow or rent one. Or you can look at PAR charts to find the right height to set your light. Physically raising your light higher above your tank will decrease PAR values in your tank. Also you can decrease your photoperiod. You can probably get away with as low as 6 hours. The other thing you can do is remove some bulbs if you have too much light. Light is paramount and is the easiest thing to fix.
2. CO2. Harder to measure...there is a lag between drop checker response...about 2 hours behind. Also the drop checker will only measure CO2 reasonably well at one end of the tank. There is a more accurate way to measure CO2, but it is more laborious. I'll try to find link.
3. Nutrients- are of the least important factor. As long as light and CO2 are right, excess nutrients will have virtually no effect on algae growth. It is more important to have enough nutrients for plants to grow healthy than worry about too much causing algae outbreaks. In fact the EI method emphasizes dosing nutrients in excess. Healthy, thriving plants=decreased algae.
Why would you copy and paste that post from there to here?1. Light. If you don't have a PAR meter, borrow or rent one. Or you can look at PAR charts to find the right height to set your light. Physically raising your light higher above your tank will decrease PAR values in your tank. Also you can decrease your photoperiod. You can probably get away with as low as 6 hours. The other thing you can do is remove some bulbs if you have too much light. Light is paramount and is the easiest thing to fix.
2. CO2. Harder to measure...there is a lag between drop checker response...about 2 hours behind. Also the drop checker will only measure CO2 reasonably well at one end of the tank. There is a more accurate way to measure CO2, but it is more laborious. I'll try to find link.
3. Nutrients- are of the least important factor. As long as light and CO2 are right, excess nutrients will have virtually no effect on algae growth. It is more important to have enough nutrients for plants to grow healthy than worry about too much causing algae outbreaks. In fact the EI method emphasizes dosing nutrients in excess. Healthy, thriving plants=decreased algae.
dude, lmfaoWhy would you copy and paste that post from there to here?
http://www.bcaquaria.com/forum/plants-algae-ferts-ei-co2-lighting-13/plants-dying-need-help-26187/#post214615
Further what does caring for aquarium plants have to do with a Cannabis grow?
Or... Or... stay with me here... you could re plant in good soil and water it.. Up to you.Are the browning, wrinkling tips still moist, or dry and crispy? I'm assuming moist. If so, this is what I would do at this point:
Trim at the red lines
Provide adequete, fluxuating airflow
Ensure temps do not rise above 80
Spray with a weak neem oil solution twice weekly
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I concur with this guy.either that or its wet. in that .......soil. personally.......i like more perlite; especially when seedling/young plant.
if you haven't fed, and that is not fertilized soil, then wet roots is the cause of your stunting. either can do it, and look alot alike
Miracle Grow is just the soil brand. There are different variations of Miracle Grow. Some hotter than others. Maybe he had a very light MG.I read a thread a while ago and buddy was saying he was getting perfect results from MG seed starting soil.
i used miracle grow, it's a 0.14-0.14-0.14 - didn't have any problems with my seedlings!Miracle Grow is just the soil brand. There are different variations of Miracle Grow. Some hotter than others. Maybe he had a very light MG.
Yeah that's what the subject of this post, that you copied to RIU, says:
Hey reese123 .. i was using father of EI method that why i am sharing my personal experience and suggest my friends. i agree with you but my friend.. everyone has their own experience and they share their experience with other friends.