premixed or personally mixed soil amendments

olylifter420

olylifter420

Well-Known Member
Hello RIU, hope you all token it up!!!!

Hey, i was thinking and i need you'alls advice...


Ok, so i really like Dr.earth's products and as such i have had this question linger for a while now..

Should i purchase a product that has a lot of soil amendments already in it as the product in the following link ,

http://www.amazon.com/Dr-Earth-Orga..._1_28?s=garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1308700240&sr=1-28


Or should i buy the individual soil amendment products they sell such as the following link,

http://www.amazon.com/Dr-Earth-716-..._1_32?s=garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1308700543&sr=1-32

http://www.amazon.com/Organic-Dr-Ea..._1_34?s=garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1308700569&sr=1-34

http://www.amazon.com/Dr-Earth-726-..._1_36?s=garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1308700593&sr=1-36

http://www.amazon.com/Dr-Earth-721-..._1_33?s=garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1308700611&sr=1-33


thank you for all you'all checking this out for me, thanks
 
Come on fellas, no one is going to bother giving there expert opinion? Ok, I guess you all are better then me and my questions, thanks!
 
Hey there friend im here to help. I personally like buying all my amendments separate, it allows not only for customization of soils but helps you to understand how each amendment plays their own role. Thats a nice lineup you have may I suggest switching out bone meal for fish bone meal and also adding in alfalfa and kelp meal. Other than that its a good lineup for sure
 
chronic coinoisseur said:
Hey there friend im here to help. I personally like buying all my amendments separate, it allows not only for customization of soils but helps you to understand how each amendment plays their own role. Thats a nice lineup you have may I suggest switching out bone meal for fish bone meal and also adding in alfalfa and kelp meal. Other than that its a good lineup for sure
Click to expand...

Alfalfa and Kelp are great!
 
It really depends on how much time you have. I like to add my own amendments to the soil but it has to compost for a month a so. If you need something today i'd buy an amended commercial mix. You could ask around at organic greenhouses or nurseries for a homemade pre-composted mix to purchase.
 
Well, I have to agree with seperately adding admendments. I personally don't use and have never used the premixed stuff from the store. First off I am cheap, second I want to know totally what is in the soil and how much of what. I make all of my own soil for my girls, starting with native soil and building from there. Using compost comprised of a multitude of different green and brown plant products, kitchen scrapes, horse, chicken and cow manures, abono organic compost (locally produced organic compost for coffee plants), humic acid, carbon (hardwood charcoal) and wheathulls I add when potting containers.
This is the basic mix which has worked on over 30 different strains the past several years. Now for each strain they take nutes at different times during their growth, so I can tweak each strain as I put into containers. Some need more N some, more P or K. Yes it is more work and can take more time to learn your strain, but if you plan on growing the same strains until you learn what they want it will help.
I guess it comes down to what works for you. Do you have time to spend (maybe a few cycles) to learn what works best for your plant? If you are like so many today that grow untold number strains in the same soil and expect stellar results, then premixed and scheduled feedings and amounts are they way to go. I have been growing one strain now since 2008 at least one clone per month and finally I think I have her totally dialed in.
I am not saying that the buds are so much bigger than my first attempt with her, but the overall plant health is better, she finishes almost 2 weeks sooner than in the beginning and of course she is now much stronger smoke than the first several attempts.
Best of Luck to you in your grow, I hope you find what works best for you.
 
Maine Brookies said:
It really depends on how much time you have. I like to add my own amendments to the soil but it has to compost for a month a so.
Click to expand...

This is not entirely accurate. Guanos, kelp meal, alfalfa meal, worm castings are all readily available without composting. Blood and bone meal tend to run a bit hotter and therefore would probably benefit from a period of composting (similar to what Subcool does with his super soil).

And you definitely should add WORM CASTINGS to your list. It's teeming with microbes and provides a small Nitrogen boost. Castings comprise up to 50% of my soil mixes.
 
Jerry Garcia said:
This is not entirely accurate. Guanos, kelp meal, alfalfa meal, worm castings are all readily available without composting. Blood and bone meal tend to run a bit hotter and therefore would probably benefit from a period of composting (similar to what Subcool does with his super soil).

And you definitely should add WORM CASTINGS to your list. It's teeming with microbes and provides a small Nitrogen boost. Castings comprise up to 50% of my soil mixes.
Click to expand...

also, dont forget Molasses to get those Microbes moving!
i highly recommend starting a worm farm, as castings are slightly pricey and worms deal with lots of kitchen and garden waste.
 
Jerry Garcia said:
This is not entirely accurate. Guanos, kelp meal, alfalfa meal, worm castings are all readily available without composting.
Click to expand...

Not all guanos are immediately available - bat guano is, bird guanos not so much. I looked at the stuff he linked and the first two things were blood and bone meal so i made the leap that he wanted to add those specific amendments to the mix.
 
thanks bro, really appreciate it!!! I noticed i havent purchased any single amendment only the premixed stuff from dr. earth and that is what i have added to my "super soil" mix...

this is all that i have already mixed together in an 18 gallon tote,

earthwise organic compost(cow and chicken manure)
scotts premium top soil
safer brand diatomaceous earth
epsoma garden lime
ferti lome vermiculite
ferti lome charcoal
MG perlite
lady bug brand worm castings
fish bone meal
bat guano
garden ville rocket fuel
what else do you think i need to add?

thanks


Maine Brookies said:
It really depends on how much time you have. I like to add my own amendments to the soil but it has to compost for a month a so. If you need something today i'd buy an amended commercial mix. You could ask around at organic greenhouses or nurseries for a homemade pre-composted mix to purchase.
Click to expand...
 
I think i will stick to the widow. I really like the plant how it grows and was my first good genetics plant, so i would really like to dial her down as well... I found this really good organic product line that is here local in state, would you mind visiting the site to see if it is a good product? It has great ingridents and is very affordable, i paid 14.99 for 1.5 cu. ft and i also bought this product called "rocket fuel" from garden ville and it really kicks ass in the ingredients!!!! Have you heard of the product? I will post the link to both the aforementioned product, and i would really appreciate you'alls advice on the product cause if it is good, i will be sticking to that brand for a long time..
thanks guys, cant rep all you'all yet, i gotta "pass it around"

http://www.garden-ville.com/4429779_36600.htm

http://www.ladybugbrand.com/products/Vortex-Potting-Soil.asp



canefan said:
Well, I have to agree with seperately adding admendments. I personally don't use and have never used the premixed stuff from the store. First off I am cheap, second I want to know totally what is in the soil and how much of what. I make all of my own soil for my girls, starting with native soil and building from there. Using compost comprised of a multitude of different green and brown plant products, kitchen scrapes, horse, chicken and cow manures, abono organic compost (locally produced organic compost for coffee plants), humic acid, carbon (hardwood charcoal) and wheathulls I add when potting containers.
This is the basic mix which has worked on over 30 different strains the past several years. Now for each strain they take nutes at different times during their growth, so I can tweak each strain as I put into containers. Some need more N some, more P or K. Yes it is more work and can take more time to learn your strain, but if you plan on growing the same strains until you learn what they want it will help.
I guess it comes down to what works for you. Do you have time to spend (maybe a few cycles) to learn what works best for your plant? If you are like so many today that grow untold number strains in the same soil and expect stellar results, then premixed and scheduled feedings and amounts are they way to go. I have been growing one strain now since 2008 at least one clone per month and finally I think I have her totally dialed in.
I am not saying that the buds are so much bigger than my first attempt with her, but the overall plant health is better, she finishes almost 2 weeks sooner than in the beginning and of course she is now much stronger smoke than the first several attempts.
Best of Luck to you in your grow, I hope you find what works best for you.
Click to expand...
 
I forgot to add that to my list of things that i have already mixed together, i added a 6lb bag of worm castings, hopefully that will do the trick, if not i will go and purchase some more for a top dressing feed or tea. I was trying to go Sub's way, but i have yet to find some of the amendments he uses, so i just try my best. i am still letting it sit out in the sun for about 15 days before using it and as i get more amendments to add, i will add them to the mix... How much do you recommend using of the alfalfa and kelp meals and which ratios?

thanks



Jerry Garcia said:
This is not entirely accurate. Guanos, kelp meal, alfalfa meal, worm castings are all readily available without composting. Blood and bone meal tend to run a bit hotter and therefore would probably benefit from a period of composting (similar to what Subcool does with his super soil).

And you definitely should add WORM CASTINGS to your list. It's teeming with microbes and provides a small Nitrogen boost. Castings comprise up to 50% of my soil mixes.
Click to expand...
 
where do i start for creating my own worm farm? I really dont know how, so thats why i havent bothered with it, but i have thought about it though! any help is greatly appreciated.



ClamDigger said:
also, dont forget Molasses to get those Microbes moving!
i highly recommend starting a worm farm, as castings are slightly pricey and worms deal with lots of kitchen and garden waste.
Click to expand...
 
Garden-Ville, oh wow! I used to live in San Antonio and would drive there for all my supplies as a small biz gardener. They got me started in organic and they were great to deal with. Pestered the hell out of them but they were so nice. I have The Garden-Ville Method, by Malcom Beck and I just found some price sheets and a catalog from 1994! . Anyway, they are conscientious people and will take good care of you. Not much help, just rambling about good memories.
 
Cool, i saw that rocket fuel at the nursery, turned it around and saw the ingredients, i was amazed at everything it had in it!!!! Everything you can ask for is in it, so i am hoping it will work well... Have you tried their rocket fuel?


Hasbroh said:
Garden-Ville, oh wow! I used to live in San Antonio and would drive there for all my supplies as a small biz gardener. They got me started in organic and they were great to deal with. Pestered the hell out of them but they were so nice. I have The Garden-Ville Method, by Malcom Beck and I just found some price sheets and a catalog from 1994! . Anyway, they are conscientious people and will take good care of you. Not much help, just rambling about good memories.
Click to expand...
 
i started my worm farm with worms from my compost pile :-D
i screened my pile and collected all the worms into a 5gal bucket with some compost in it, aka their temporary home. i then layered the worms into the farm with partially finished compost, grass clippings, coco coir, dandelions, rabbit poop, alfalfa, and eggshells.
the farm itsself is a blue barrel (45gal) cut in half (25gal, its a lil more then half) with an INSANE amount of holes in it. thats it.. make sure it dosent dry out and they will thrive!
i refill mine every few months, i screen it and save the worms for the next batch.
worm farming is soo easy, and the castings are amazing!
 
olylifter420 said:
I forgot to add that to my list of things that i have already mixed together, i added a 6lb bag of worm castings, hopefully that will do the trick, if not i will go and purchase some more for a top dressing feed or tea. I was trying to go Sub's way, but i have yet to find some of the amendments he uses, so i just try my best. i am still letting it sit out in the sun for about 15 days before using it and as i get more amendments to add, i will add them to the mix... How much do you recommend using of the alfalfa and kelp meals and which ratios?

thanks
Click to expand...

I mix all my meals directly into the medium. As for quantities, it varies, but 1 teaspoon or 1 tablespoon per gallon soil typically works, but I've stopped measuring those directly as I have a feel for what to use. 1 tablespoon per gallon of kelp meal is recommended on the package, but I've found that to be a bit too strong. It depends on the strain really.

The most significant observation I've made regarding this situation is the inability of soil within a container to provide 100% of the nutrients necessary for the duration of flower. I find the pre-mixed nutrients in my mixes will last about 6 weeks, depending on plant size, regardless of container size (larger plants in smaller containers use nutrients faster, and vice versa). I've read Subcool experiences the same scenario with his super soil, which is why he instructs to frequently transplant into larger containers with new soil throughout the grow. It seems that to make it last any longer would make the soil too hot and burn the plants.

The easiest solution is to make organic teas using the same ingredients you used in your soil mix. This will help supplement the soil nutrients, enhance the microbial population, and carry your plant through to harvest without extra transplanting.
 
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