Question about adding lime to FoxFarm OF & Happy Frog

Ok, so after reading a million posts on this site it's aparent that many people have opposing views on weather lime is neccissary or not. This is not the question I'm asking.

From what I understand, both Ocean Forest and Happy Frog have lime added from oyster hulls and dolomite lime. I've also read that this is not abundant enough to sustain the plant with enough lime to compensate for drop in ph from the pete moss added to these mixes, and the lime in the mix will only last for a month or so with frequesnt waterings.

So here's my question (if you read this far): I plan on LSTing these ladies in 5 gallon pots where a transplant won't be possible. So, if I add lime to my mix from the get go, will it last long enough to sustain the ladies all the way through flower?? If not, how can it be added durring flowering?

With new soil, test the pH of a sample of the soil. Take about 2 or 3 tablespoons and make a loose mud with just enough water to cover the soil by about 1/2" in a small jar. Check the pH with a good meter. If the pH is low, add lime to the entire batch and retest a sample. Do this in baby steps until you get a pH reading of about 6.8. Then the soil is good. Whatever the pH of a solution is poured in will be changed as that solution sits in contact with the soil. The run off will not be affected as much because it just runs thru and isn't in contact long enough to be substantially affected.
Certainly over time, the lime will leach out, but not in the duration of a grow. Coarser grades of lime (IE: oystershell, dolomite) don't dissolve fast enough to keep the pH stable, where powdered garden lime will.
From all I've heard about the FFoF and Happy Frog, if they lime it, it's woefully inadequate. I hear many folks who use it having pH issues, but then so many people do not understand the basic concept of soil pH and are more concerned with the pH of what goes in or comes out, and have no real idea what the actual pH of the soil is, so there is no telling whether or not they really had problems at all.
Most "potting soils" and soilless mixes are peat based as you said, and will be naturally acidic, needing lime. The time to adjust you soil pH is when you mix the stuff. Add all of your amendments, and then check it as detailed above. Adjust with lime as necessary, then FORGET about pH. YOu can check it periodically for your own peace of mind, but you'll find that in the course of a grow. if you start with a pH of 6.8, at the end of that grow the pH will be no lower than 6.6, well within parameters, no matter what the pH of your watering solution is.

I notice my ph of water can be as high as 7.4 or so, are you suggesting I not do anything with this as long as the original 45 day ago soil was good --- ph that is 6.8 ish

That is exactly right! Take a sample of the soil from along one side and down a couple of inches (gently) and test it like I said above. I guarantee you it's fine. How did you check he pH of the soil that you know was 6.8?

Hey, thanks Jack. Ph was a little low, after cutting my ocean forest and happy frog with perlite. The soil in my 5 gallon pots has four layers with 1/3, 1/4, 1/5 and 0 perlite from bottom to top respectively. I went a little heavier on the dolomite towards the bottom layers as they will leech a little more, being less compact. Hoping this stops my calmag def in late flowering.