red stems

LittleT

Well-Known Member
i have some autos growing in a tent in an old building.plants are 3 or 4 weeks left deisel ryder and cronic ryder anyway lately the temps are pretty cold freezing infact.i have a 2x4x6 foot mylar tent with a 150 hps and 10 23 watt cfls on 24 hrs a day to keep it warm inside at night.anyway in the last 2 weeks the stems began to turn red here is a pic 2 weeks later100_3744.jpggetting worse what should i do?plants look ok
 

Billdo024

Member
cold weather can bring a red or purple color out in some strains, look at my avi that one is in a simalar situation as yours right now, just make sure they don;t frost or freeze
 

LT1RX7 Drifter

Active Member
i would put a small ceramic heater in the tent and turn your lights off for 4 hrs in the middle of the day when temps are high, you never stated what your lights on/off temps are a small dehumidifier would make a huge difference it would supply a little heat and drop the humidity lowering your dew point, the red is a result of the low temps at nighttime
 

massah

Well-Known Member
the red you are getting is not from lack of heat...its a potassium deficiency...increase or change nutrients to include more P/K, and probably a good idea to bump up your micro nutrients(specifically cal/mag) just in case as well ;)
 

LittleT

Well-Known Member
i put 1/4 dose of beastie blooms--1teaspoon mollases and1/4 cha ching hope it helps--plants look good other than red stems and stalks on some
 

Jack Harer

Well-Known Member
Some strains just have naturally red stems. It could be nothing. Are there any other signs of distress?
 

MrMeanGreen

Active Member
Some strains just have naturally red stems. It could be nothing. Are there any other signs of distress?
I would disagree, some strains are very easily stressed and appear to have naturally red stems from the get go. If you look at your plant closely, you can see the levels of stress (depth of red) you plant has been through during it's life.
 

LittleT

Well-Known Member
plants look good--growing every day--the ones a week behind first planting are just starting to turn alittle red.the older ones more mature are red,even stalks are getting alittle red.only have 3 more weeks to go on the biggest ones--these are all lr#2s and cronic ryders--and deisel ryders. 3 weeks from today will be 65 days---says 65 to 70 days---not going to stress over them.they are in fact growing in a tent in a old barn.no heat --water sits in tent in a jug its a 2x4x6 ft--with 1 150 watt hps and 8 cfl 23 watt lights so pretty warn but not anywhere close to 50 at night------i just gave alittle ferts --time will tell---- as far as stress--they have lived there since the were 2 inches tall---only thing differant is ferts and heat!!!--as an experament --if i brought 1 in to my heated house would redness go away?what experaments could i do to test this--1 have 5 at 6 weeks and 6 at 4 1/2 weeks all budding --the 6 weeks ones are redder than 4 1/2 week ones--the 4 1/2 week are just trying to start on most---also will add 40 yrs growing outside --1st attempt at halfway inside--
 

pooper

Well-Known Member
the red you are getting is not from lack of heat...its a potassium deficiency...increase or change nutrients to include more P/K, and probably a good idea to bump up your micro nutrients(specifically cal/mag) just in case as well ;)
yessss some one with some fuggin brains....... thats just what i was gonna say.. but now i dont have to :)
 

Jack Harer

Well-Known Member
It definitely COULD be a K def, but there should be other signs of it as well. Some strains DO have a natural red coloration to the stems. I have grown out many that do. Not every little thing is a deficiency or a problem here. If you think that, then you'll end up loving the plants to death.
 

gobskiii

Well-Known Member
cold temps make it harder for any plant to process P and K...therefor it is either deficient, or its the strain...if you know the strain that will eliminate one of them.
 

LittleT

Well-Known Member
ok i am trying this--the one 5 gallon bucket has 3 plants in it.i flushed with 15 gallons of rain water just now--it is sitting in sun to drain some--to try to figure if its ferts--water was 6.2 at final wash--when should i give ferts---again-- i plan to give chi ching from fox farms for 2 weeks then flush for a week or so---gonna bring pot #2 in to see if house heat helps any--others i gave beastie bloom and mollases and leaving in tent!!!
 

gobskiii

Well-Known Member
the over-all health of your plants is fine...big fan leaves dying off isnt a concern...its the smaller leaves near the buds that really matter...once they are effected, and i mean significantly then thats when your yeild suffers...its a bit early to say for certain if it is K deficiency...but those light spots sure look like it. i think you should continue to do whatever it is you are doing...maybe cut out the FF solubles all together, and just go with the liquid trio...if you have them...the soulbles are some of the best out there, but if you overfeed them with it, it'll fuck them up...remember less is more.
 

Jack Harer

Well-Known Member
Gobskill is right, that does look like a K deficiency. Thats the other sign of distress I was looking for.
 

LittleT

Well-Known Member
ok i flushed one pot today --i have beistie bloomz with a # 0-50-30 wouldnt this help if that is the problem?if not what would you suggest?anyone?
 

LT1RX7 Drifter

Active Member
some are right most are wrong the issue is caused from temps take look at the people responding most are new members all of who try to float there boat a little higher then the next guy, truth be told here are the basics read them in its entirety
and take what other say with a grain of salt lol

Nitrogen. N is the most common deficiency of cannabis indoors or out. The first sign is a gradual, uniform yellowing of the large, lower leaves. Once the leaf yellows, necrotic tips and areas form as the leaves dry to a gold or rust color. Symptoms that accompany N deficiency include red stems and petioles, smaller leaves, slow growth, and a smaller, sparse profile.
Remedy by fertilizing with any soluble N fertilizer or with a complete fertilizer that is high in N. If your diagnosis is correct, some recovery should be visible in three or four days. New growth will be much more vigorous and new stems and petioles will have normal green color. Indoors, you should expect plants to need N fertilization a few times during growth. Once a plant shows a N deficiency, you should fertilize regularly to maintain healthy and vigorous growth.
Phosphorus. P deficiency is characterized by slow and sometimes stunted growth. Leaves overall are smaller and dark green; red color appears in petioles and stems. The leaves may also develop red or purple color starting on the veins of the underside of the leaf. Generally the tips of most of the leaf blades on the lower portion of the plant die before the leaves lose color. Lower leaves slowly turn yellow before they die. Remedy with any soluble P-containing fertilizer. Affected leaves do not show much recovery, but the plant should perk up, and the symptoms do not progress.
Potassium. Often, K-deficient plants are the tallest and appear to be the most vigorous. Starting on the large lower leaves, the tips of the blades brown and die. Necrotic areas or spots form on the blades, particularly along the margins. Sometimes the leaves are spattered with chlorotic tissue before necrosis develops, and the leaves look pale or yellow. Red stems and petioles accompany potassium deficiencies.
K deficiencies can be treated with any fertilizer that contains potassium. Wood ashes dissolved in water are a handy source. Recovery is slow. New growth will not have the red color, and leaves will stop spotting after a couple of weeks.
Calcium. Ca deficiencies are rare and do not occur if you have added any lime compound or wood ash. But Ca is added primarily to regulate soil chemistry and pH. Make sure that you add lime to soil mixtures when adding manures, cottonseed meal, or other acidic bulk fertilizers. An excess of acidic soil additives may create Mg or Fe deficiencies, or very slow, stunted growth. Remedy by adding one teaspoon of dolomitic lime per quart of water until the plants show marked improvement. Foliar feeding is most beneficial until the soil's chemistry reaches a new balance.
Sulfur. S deficiencies sometimes can be confused with N deficiencies and may also occur because of an excess of other nutrients in the soil solution. S deficiency symptoms usually start at the top of the plant. There is a general yellowing of the new leaves. In pots, the whole plant may lose some green color. Both S and Mg deficiencies can be treated with the same compound, epsom salts, or bathing salts, which are inexpensive and available at drug stores.
Magnesium. Mg deficiencies frequently occur in soilless mixtures, since many otherwise all-purpose fertilizers do not contain Mg. Mg deficiencies also occur in mixtures that contain very large amounts of Ca or Cl. Symptoms of Mg deficiency occur first on the lower leaves. There is chlorosis of tissue between the veins, which remain green, and starting from the tips the blades die and usually curl upward. Purple color builds up on stems and petioles.
You may first notice Mg symptoms at the top of the plant. The leaves in the growing shoot are lime-colored. In extreme cases, all the leaves turn practically white, with green veins. Treat Mg symptoms with one-half teaspoon of epsom salts to each quart of water, and water as usual. The top leaves recover their green color within four days, and all but the most damaged should recover gradually. Continue to fertilize with epsom salts as needed until the plants are flowering well.
Iron. Fe is likely to be deficient when the soil is very acid or alkaline. Under these conditions, the iron becomes insoluble. Remedies include adjusting the pH before planting; addition of rusty water; or driving a nail into the stem. Commercial Fe preparations are also available. If the soil is acidic, use chelated iron, which is available to the plants under acidic conditions. Symptoms appear first on the new growing shoots. The leaves are chlorotic between the veins, which remain dark green. Iron symptoms are usually most prominent on the growing shoots.
Manganese. Mn deficiency appears as chlorotic and then necrotic spots of leaf tissue between veins. They generally appear on the younger leaves, although spots may appear over the whole plant. Mn is present in many all-purpose fertilizers.
Boron. Symptoms of B deficiency first appear at the growing shoots, which die and turn brown or gray. The shoots may appear "burned." A sure sign of boron deficiency is that, once the growing tip dies, the lateral buds will start to grow, but will also die. B deficiency can be corrected by application of boric acid, which is sold as an eyewash in any drugstore. Use one-fourth teaspoon per quart of water. Recovery occurs in a few days with a healthy growth of new shoots.
Molybdenum. Mb is readily available at neutral or alkaline pH. Mb is essential for nitrogen metabolism in the plant, and symptoms can be masked for a while when N fertilizers are being used. There is a yellowing of the leaves at the middle of the plant. Mb is included in many all-purpose fertilizers.
Zinc. Zn-deficiency symptoms include chlorosis of leaf tissue between the veins. Chlorosis or white areas start at the leaf margins and tips. More definite symptoms are very small, new leaves which may also be twisted or curled radially. Galvanized nails can be buried or pushed into the stem. Commercial preparations of zinc are also available.
Copper. Cu deficiencies are rare; be careful not to confuse their symptoms with those of overfertilization. Starting with the younger leaves, which become necrotic at the tips and margins, leaves will appear somewhat limp, and in extreme cases the whole plant will wilt. Treat by foliar-spraying with a commercial fungicide such as CuSO[SIZE=-1]4[/SIZE].
 
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