S1 seeds

shepj

Oracle of Hallucinogens
heyy guys,
I hear this term thrown around every once in a while, and so I gather it means Selfed? But what the hell does that actually mean? Like what's the difference between S1 and F1 seeds?
peace
 

dahamma

Well-Known Member
F1 seeds are first generation. Like a mix between two strains, the first (un stable ) seeds are f1) It takes at least 10 -15 generations of stable mixes to create stable seeds. But I may be wrong though
 

shepj

Oracle of Hallucinogens
I know what an F1 is :-). But I think the generations to make it stable are more around 4-5. Thx +rep for help

So the question still stands, WTF is a S1?
 

Tricks

Well-Known Member
S1 mean selfed, first selfed generation. Now basicly what it means is you reverse a female plant and collect the pollen, pollinate the mother and or clone of that mother to get S1 seeds. You can self a male as well, or you can pollinate one female with a genetically different reversed female.
 

shepj

Oracle of Hallucinogens
S1 mean selfed, first selfed generation. Now basicly what it means is you reverse a female plant and collect the pollen, pollinate the mother and or clone of that mother to get S1 seeds. You can self a male as well, or you can pollinate one female with a genetically different reversed female.
so essentially, for a clone.. you'd stress the hell out of it and self polinate it?
 

Tricks

Well-Known Member
so essentially, for a clone.. you'd stress the hell out of it and self polinate it?

Well, you would take the pollen from the reversed female and use it on its mother or a clone of the mother. Its a bit more complex then how im describing it, but thats the basics.
 

Aruanda

Well-Known Member
Damn it took 7 years to get that answer!
Lulz!! That's hilarious. Yeah I just heard of s1 and was like wtf is that, then found this thread on my google search and thought I'd ask. Pretty sure I knew that, was never familiar with 's1' though.
 

Daniel Lawton

Well-Known Member
I already posted some of this elsewhere, however I keep learning over time and want to pass on helpful info. I apologize to the seed sellers, because in fact, if you have just one of their feminized seeds, you can make hundreds very easily. Fortunately, most people are rather lazy and impatient, and since a $5-$10 seeds gets you $$$$$ in pot, hopefully the seed sellers will continue to be very successful.

I'm experimenting with making S1 seeds, mostly just because I'm an autistic nerd and want to know how. I have no plans to sell any (which is illegal in Cal.).

I have 10 autoflower variety of plants growin right now (in 2 locations to keep pollen from mixing). 4 of my seed bearing plants are using colloidal silver forced pollen from one F1 plant, spread onto another F1 plant who's 3-4 weeks younger.

All are making seeds. Pretty much, if you make colloidal silver, spray until you see the male pods (you'll be worried the first time, but once you know them you'll never worry again), you will absolutely get pollen. And trust the pics on the net. If you're in doubt, once they start to have darker lines on them (maybe purple), you're in business. If they open up, you can use tweesers to harvest pollen pods, as long as you see several (4 or 5) green or yellow fibers in them (bananas). Don't have to be yellow, just put them in something and let it dry. But in the long run, you might learn you don't have to harvest them at all. It's always easy to make a plant produce it's own pollen! So why save the stuff?

I goofed up on an AK47 and sprayed it even after the male pods formed, stunting pollen making. Everyone kept emphasizing how you might even have to spray it 3 times a day, so I went overboard.

Produced no pollen in the time I expected. So I ditched it to another room, not wanting to kill it.

That sucker is still alive today, 2 months past it's predicted lifespan. It's making so much pollen that I don't even collect it. Looks to me like she might even pollinate a few of the flower hairs she's managed to grow along with the really old pollen sacs. We'll see. That would be a free S1.

One White Widow in particular is making huge amounts of seeds. In her case, she sat next to one of her own kind, 4 weeks older and forced to make pollen using colloidal silver. Then when the entire older plant was covered in male pollen sacs and most were bursting open, I fluffed it with my hands towards the second plant. It was a HEAVY yellow cloud of pollen. I choked from it! Now I can sympathize with those who have asthma from pollen.

Thus he's FULL of seeds. Not only that, but the first plant that made the huge burst of pollen, has done it again and again and again. I'm going to have to sweep up that floor. Meanwhile, the plant I forced to make pollen grew some flowers anyway, and she's pollinated herself.

In another case, I collected pollen first, let that plant mature and die, then tried to use the pollen on another of his kind (Lowryder#2). Both were F1. I got seeds, but nothing like the ones I got with that huge burst of pollen. I tried to paint the pollen on with a brush, only to find out, that doesn't work as well as people claim. You get a few seeds per flower bud. And you can tell in 3 days if you're getting any, because the white hairs that accepted pollen turn orange. But a ton of them don't change color at all, and if you wait a week or two, you can see that you only got a few seeds. So the brush doesn't work well, unless you're handy with it and very patient.

I finally learned what I believe is the best trick for making seeds. Just spray only part of the plant with colloidal silver, let that make male pods, then let those pollinate the flowers on the same plant, where you didn't spray. Just fluff it up when the pollen is ready, and there's a ton of flowers.

I didn't try that the first time because I thought that autoflowering varieties didn't all live long enough to make seeds using their own pollen.

I was dead wrong. Take the times they give you for lowryder#2, AK47, Super Skunk, and add a MONTH to the actual life of the plant. The underestimate. Those 3 are all able to make seeds using their own pollen. Not to mention the longer lived autoflowers, like blueberry.

One thing I learned about making colloidal silver. There's a lot of superstition in that area. I'm hoping UC Davis's new marijuana department will clear up some of the marijuana controversies.

In the case of colloidal silver, it DOES NOT harm the plant, if you follow good directions for making it (like on this forum).

Also, the TDS meter doesn't work on colloidal silver. Or at least, mine doesn't. I brewed it until it read 50, then for fun I brewed it some more. Read 50 2 more days in a row. So I took the 50 silver, diluted it with equally as much water, and it still read 50.

But, it doesn't get a yellow/brown color like they say. Just go for that, works fine without measuring it.

Also, the silver wires you use, DO WEAR OUT!!!! I'm not sure why people are claiming you can brew thousands of batches. Those little suckers wear out after about 5 batches. And after each batch, if you look closely, they've gotten thinner. To balance that out, switch + and - once in a while. One of them wears out more than the other.
 

Daniel Lawton

Well-Known Member
Typo corrections on the last post. The colloidal silver DOES get yellow (grey, brown, ???). And I meant to say, the seed sellers DO underestimate the time that autoflower plants take to mature. Some say, it's because they give the fastest time, for optimal conditions. But if you use their time, you'll calculate that you can't make seeds on the same plant, for lowryder#2, ak47, and superskunk. Add 1 month to their lifespan, and the calcs say you can (not to mention, I did it).
 

Daniel Lawton

Well-Known Member
Do you supposed the S1 males are caused by wayward pollen in the air, from outside growers?

Yes, the colloidal silver is a pain. Trouble with the colloidal silver is how many times you have to spray, which is more work than it sounds like if you add it all up.

What's making me wait on the STS (I already have the ingredients) is that there are multiple varieties of the non-silver ingredient, which vary by how many water molecules are bonded. My seller didn't specify which kind I got, and it's not clear to me on google how to tell. There's no info I can see on what happens if you make a mistake and have the wrong number of water molecules, and thus get the weight wrong. I guess, if there's light on it all the time, the excess silver nitrate turns to silver, so you come out ok anyway?

I learned one thing last night. My Northern Lights got sprayed all over the top with colloidal silver, and is making a ton of pollen. But there's not enough flowers down below the top (where it didn't get sprayed) to make a significant number of S1s. I started it before I realized the best strategy was to spray only a side (not the top) so as to make S1s. I was planning on saving up pollen when I started it. Guess I'll have to do that, unless it makes more blossoms soon.

I'm wondering now if the Northern Lights might do better on a 12/12 schedule to induce more flowers. It's on 24/0. Maybe the autoflower plant varieties aren't all as eager to autoflower? The blueberry is taking a very long time.

Anyone know if all autoflowers have the same eagerness to autoflower?

As an aside, I wonder what California legalizing growing is going to do to pot prices? In the end, are people too mpatient to grow their own, when you can just buy some that's probably better than you can produce?
 
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