Stretching along with taco'ing

Jkooper

Active Member
First DWC grow.

I'm on day 33 with my northern light auto. For the first 28 days I was using a 100w LED running 24/0 and then switched to a 315w LEC running 20/4 (28" away is as far as I could get it). I also went from 1/2 lucas formula to full 0-8ml-16ml.

My plant has doubled in size in 5 days but I am now experiencing the plant leaning I'm assuming because of stretching. The new growth looks great but it is taco'ing on the new leaves a bit. The main stem is drooping over even though its probably the lightest part of the plant. It's been drinking ~a half gallon a day and I've been topping it off with full nutrient water that I made extra. A fan is blowing on it from the bottom.

I'm not sure what to do at this point. Do I attach a pole and tie the plant? Lower nutrients? Did switching the light to 4 hours off freak it out? Also for an auto, I would think I would start seeing buds by this point....
 

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Seems like it might be getting too much light too quickly. Its like growing away from the light

Im sure its fine and will toughen up
 
Seems like it might be getting too much light too quickly. Its like growing away from the light

Im sure its fine and will toughen up

I have an option of hanging a sheet of thin glass under the light, I just rather not do that if I don't have too. I was recent able to raise the light from 22" to 28" before this post, so I was hoping that could help a tad.
 
so what is your actual light level in footcandles? a free light meter app is available at the app store. there is a lot of talk about PAR . par is the quality of light not the intensity. footcandles is intensity. filling a a bucket of solution the ec ph is the par. the speed at which fill is the footcandles
you fc should be in the 2000 to 3000 range. more is ok, less is not great but ok . do a quick check. the pics could be betteri.
 
Could it be the plant building up a tolerance for the uv spectrum that LEC’s produce? I’ve heard that plants have an adjustment period to the UV but will eventually build up a tolerance. That’s why people usually introduce UV @ end of flowering to increase resin production. However since LECs admit UV I would guess she’s just building up her tolerance.
 
so what is your actual light level in footcandles? a free light meter app is available at the app store.

I'll have to download this, I can't imagine it's accurate since each phone has a different camera sensor or IR sensors (however it measures).

Could it be the plant building up a tolerance for the uv spectrum that LEC’s produce? I’ve heard that plants have an adjustment period to the UV but will eventually build up a tolerance. That’s why people usually introduce UV @ end of flowering to increase resin production. However since LECs admit UV I would guess she’s just building up her tolerance.

One maybe critical thing I forgot to mention was that when I changed the light, the entire plant wilted, nearly hanging over my bucket (i thought it was dead). I also added h202 at the same time as the light change to the res. Freaking out that it may have been the h202, I did a complete water changed. By the end of the next day, she perked back up. But now after about 5 days of stretching with the new light cycle, it her about 8-10 hours after the lights turn back on to stand straight (bending the top kinda help correct). Just afraid that when the flowers appear, that they wont make much thinking the plant is weak.
 
so what is your actual light level in footcandles? a free light meter app is available at the app store. there is a lot of talk about PAR . par is the quality of light not the intensity. footcandles is intensity. filling a a bucket of solution the ec ph is the par. the speed at which fill is the footcandles
you fc should be in the 2000 to 3000 range. more is ok, less is not great but ok . do a quick check. the pics could be betteri.
Lol at this likening of intensity of light which plants can use and a huge stream of nutient rich solution all over the Which is just plant bukakae...loves the fert
 
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do not use any supplements other than basic 12 minerals 2 part solution
if you are saying you are using hydrogen peroxide or some product completely not necessary. 95 % of all.products are a SCAM or extremely unnecessary. put a weed pic or something and it gets expensive and magical. i have grown 30 years semi commercially and can give 6ou a consistent yield with absolutely nothing other than the basic formula that I make myself ( and can post formula is anyone interested .costs about 7to 10$ for 20l 100 concentrate ( 20 l A 20 l B)
4hse light meter is very accurate . the photon receptors In your phone are significantly better than most light meters. 5hey are just made with cheap sensors. 6ou can get a ardiino kit to make your own .25 years who I paid 150$ for a light meter that was not at good as the one I got on my phone forn free it had graphs , instant reads , averages. it amazing.
 
if your plant wilts just water it and let it sit in low or no light. when it peels back up you can reintroduce more light . if your medium gets really hard 5you can add a bit of z wetting agent. dish soap works great. I have had this coco stuff go rock hard and a 1/2 TSP palmolive fixed it. soap is harmless
 
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