Switching from 18/6 to 24/0 in flowering (auto strain)

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papricash

Member
Hi fellaz, i would like to ask you about the benefits of switching the light from schedule 18/6 to 24/0 in flowering because I experience some slow bud development in these days. Frankly, I do not ask about general light schedule opinion, I know that this debate is a neverending story. (overall roots are already developed)
My plant grew very nicely with the 18/6 schedule past few weeks and looks healthy even I was afraid of overfeeding/deficiency etc.. But now in flowering stage I can clearly see that my mars hydro ts600 (100w light) cannot provide enough juice for nice and robust buds growing. I started to use uvb light from migro last 4 days but just for 2 hours and can't see a big differ yet. Should I change the schedule of the main light to 24/0 and would it help to develop more dense and big buds? I'm now in 46 days from germination. What do you think?
 

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VincenzioVonHook

VincenzioVonHook

Well-Known Member
Not sure about changing cycles during flower, but a good idea would be to grab 2 cheap e27 sunlike leds of eBay. They are surprisingly capable for $15. The TS 600 is perfect for veg, but lacks a bit for flower, especially if your over 12" away.

The "120w" e27 leds I got put out 120 umol at 12", have a good spectrum for flower and don't heat up the space too much as there actual draw is 23w. $30 to guarantee some weight is not a bad investment.

With the TS600 and 2x23w lights, I got roughly 600umol at 18" and 800umol at 14"
 
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papricash

Member
VincenzioVonHook said:
Not sure about changing cycles during flower, but a good idea would be to grab 2 cheap e27 sunlike leds of eBay. They are surprisingly capable for $15. The TS 600 is perfect for veg, but lacks a bit for flower, especially if your over 12" away.

The "120w" e27 leds I got put out 120 umol at 12", have a good spectrum for flower and don't heat up the space too much as there actual draw is 23w. $30 to guarantee some weight is not a bad investment.

With the TS600 and 2x23w lights, I got roughly 600umol at 18" and 800umol at 14"
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Thanks. I also considered this option but I'm curious if the 24/0 light schedule could provide some benefit in this stage and I can do it immediately. Btw. I'm exactly at 12in.
 
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Ne14BUD

Member
Slowly decrease the light schedule, in nature there is a ever a jump of a 12hours regarding sunset, me personally I decrease it over the period of about a week, each day takes an hour off, so it will take 6 days too get from 18 too 12 hours. It has worked well for me in the past
 
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Ne14BUD

Member
Sorry I never read the post properly, I would say stick with what your doing bro, I wouldnt change nothing in terms of lights now of your flowering, have you checked your ec/ppm?
 
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papricash

Member
Ne14BUD said:
Slowly decrease the light schedule, in nature there is a ever a jump of a 12hours regarding sunset, me personally I decrease it over the period of about a week, each day takes an hour off, so it will take 6 days too get from 18 too 12 hours. It has worked well for me in the past
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Please, read the topic. I'm talking about increasing the light to 24 hours from 18 hours. It's an auto I do not need 12/12 cycle and I'm sure it would weakening my yield.
 
VincenzioVonHook

VincenzioVonHook

Well-Known Member
papricash said:
But I already made my decision for the vegetative stage and I used 18/6 but now I can see that my main light is not strong enough for bud development. So my question is can 24/0 light schedule switch now in flowering stage help to improve the yield.
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From a genetic standpoint, depending on the amount of ruderalis is has, it shouldn't have a problem in 24 hour light. In northern Europe for example there are times where the sun doesn't set for 16 weeks. Even though the light isn't as strong up there, I have still seen ppfd readings from 700-1300 over a 24hr period in Norway, which can continue for weeks.

I'm not sure how it will play out in real life, and how much the photo genetics left over will have an effect though.
 
Jenko

Jenko

Well-Known Member
I do 20/4 with 3 autos Blackberry gum only in flower 10 days using 3 x 100 watts bulbs only using 45 watts from wall20210320_115045.jpg
 
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papricash

Member
VincenzioVonHook said:
From a genetic standpoint, depending on the amount of ruderalis is has, it shouldn't have a problem in 24 hour light. In northern Europe for example there are times where the sun doesn't set for 16 weeks. Even though the light isn't as strong up there, I have still seen ppfd readings from 700-1300 over a 24hr period in Norway, which can continue for weeks.

I'm not sure how it will play out in real life, and how much the photo genetics left over will have an effect though.
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What do you think about this light https://hydrobazis.com/prostar-cfl-125-watt-6400-kelvin-bloom
I can buy it in a local store, it's not too expensive. I can use it with my mars hydro but maybe It would cause heat problems.
 
VincenzioVonHook

VincenzioVonHook

Well-Known Member
papricash said:
What do you think about this light https://hydrobazis.com/prostar-cfl-125-watt-6400-kelvin-bloom
I can buy it in a local store, it's not too expensive. I can use it with my mars hydro but maybe It would cause heat problems.
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If that is from the wall, that is a pretty big jump in lighting, and will definately boost yield if you can control heat and distribution. That is a quality light for sure. As secondary lights, I wouldn't overlook the cheap e27 sunlikes on eBay/Amazon though.

If your looking to go CFL, a 125 is probably a bit big of a jump. two warm 40w CFLs would be adequate alongside a TS600, as it already has a pretty good spectrum as a base with red, warm white, cool white and IR, but I would suggest some $15 eBay lights if they are just supplemental. I have personally clocked the "150w" (30w) sunlikes at over 220umol at 10", with very little heat, and a wide, flower happy spectrum.

I'm not sure how much the prostar costs in us/Aussie dollars though, if it's not much more than $30usd, it will certainly increase your yield. As far as CFLs go, it Is a quality light.
 
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papricash

Member
VincenzioVonHook said:
If that is from the wall, that is a pretty big jump in lighting, and will definately boost yield if you can control heat and distribution. That is a quality light for sure. As secondary lights, I wouldn't overlook the cheap e27 sunlikes on eBay/Amazon.

If your looking to go CFL, a 125 is probably a bit big of a jump. two warm 40w CFLs would be adequate alongside a TS600, as it already has a pretty good spectrum as a base with red, warm white, cool white and IR, but I would suggest some $15 eBay lights if they are just supplemental. I have personally clocked the "150w" (30w) sunlikes at over 220umol at 10", with very little heat.
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I have a good overcalculated exhaustion fan so the plus heat can be easily managed. Usually, I have a problem with low temperature. (24c - 25c) I understood your point about the cheap lights from ebay but the delivery time will be too long. That 125w cfl i can buy in a local store tomorrow. I just read about that cfl that it should be around 10cm above the canopy. I'm a bit afraid of grilling my baby.:)
 
VincenzioVonHook

VincenzioVonHook

Well-Known Member
papricash said:
I have a good overcalculated exhaustion fan so the plus heat can be easily managed. Usually, I have a problem with low temperature. (24c - 25c) I understood your point about the cheap lights from ebay but the delivery time will be too long. That 125w cfl i can buy in a local store tomorrow. I just read about that cfl that it should be around 10cm above the canopy. I'm a bit afraid of grilling my baby.:)
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If you can get it tomorrow, go for it. It will serve you very well by the looks of it. My main issue was just the heat output but you seem to have it covered. I've heard extremely good things about the 250w bloom from prostar.
 
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