The Necrosis Thread

Mellodrama

Well-Known Member
OK, it's probably a little bit ridiculous to start a thread with such a title, but every day people post with pictures of leaf necrosis.

If I may be so bold, it appears to me that:
It's a common problem.
And necrosis can indicate several different problems, or worse, some combination of problems.
And necrosis can exhibit itself along the leaf edges, or on the broad surfaces between veins, and/or across the veins too.
And very few people are getting good answers.

Maybe we can help each other out. There have to be some clues from the necrosis patterns. I've read that some deficiencies rarely cause necrosis, such as Fe deficiency. Maybe that's true, maybe it isn't. But it seems to me that a first step would be to rule out the deficiencies that don't cause necrosis so we can focus on the ones that do.

Please post your necrotic leaf pictures into this thread, along with pertinent info. If we can get enough pictures together in one place maybe we can help each other out.

To start this thread off, here's a leaf. Underside and top side.

The sick leaves started after a flush (about 4 weeks ago) because I thought they were suffering from N tox. Growing in FFOF. I didn't fertilize after the flush because I was operating on the theory that the FFOF was too hot. At this point I'm guessing that flushing without adding some brand of "Grow" fertilizer afterward caused one or more deficiencies.

From what I've picked up it could be iron def. Or magnesium. Or sulfur or manganese or calcium. Or overall under-feeding. New growth is yellowish and tiny necrotic spots, no bigger than pinholes, can be seen.

The plants were flipped to flower a week ago. I've read that foliar feeding is a good way to do an end-run around lockout, but others say don't foliar feed once you've gone to flower.
 

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neonknight420

Well-Known Member
If it's the first week or two of flowering you are ok. When people say don't foliar feed in flowering they mean when the plant is in full bloom.
 

Mellodrama

Well-Known Member
While googling around I came across this from the Arizona Master Gardener program

http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/damage/key.html

Seems well written and pretty comprehensive. Not focused on pot per se, but I think there are still numerous bits of wisdom to be gleaned from reading it through entirely. Then maybe going back in a day or two and reading it again...
 

TurnNBurn

Active Member
I've wondered.... a lot of those pictures and sick plant threads sometimes leave you more confused about the problem. That was a nice read thanks
 

kagecog

Well-Known Member
The problem with fox farms isn't that its too "hot", I actually like the amount of nutrients in it already because I don't have to give any nutes during the veg. The problem with FFOF is that it does not contain enough of any pH buffering substance to counteract the acidifying effects of its peat moss. This leads to a cal/mag deficiency due to pH being too low. To fix this, simply add some lime pellets once a month to the surface of your soil
 

Mellodrama

Well-Known Member
kage -
I read something in the last day or two from someone else who mentioned something very similar. Whoever it was, they said that Fox Farms doesn't use dolomite lime, they use ground oyster shells, and the oyster shell doesn't last very long. EDIT: I found that thread - you're in that one too!

Our plants are looking much better. They've been dosed with several applications of the following: AACT (EWC, molasses, kelp meal, and either bone or blood meal), fertilome Chelated Iron liquid (contains Fe, Cu, Zn, and Mn), GO Cal-Mag+, Earth Juice Bloom, and top-dressed with a few tablespoons of Jobe's Organic Herb & Vegetable Garden fertilizer. I have no idea what specifically helped. Maybe everything helped some. I've been reading up on making your own organic soils. I think we'll keep the FFOF when done and just add some organic amendments like Neem meal, alfalfa meal, etc.

Here's another link I found. This one is for sweet potatoes, of all things, but I still liked it. Click on a deficiency (or toxicity) then once the new window is up you can click on the links to the right for more details, some ideas for testing, etc.

http://keys.lucidcentral.org/keys/sweetpotato/key/Sweetpotato Diagnotes/Media/Html/TheProblems/nutrient disorders.htm
 
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