They need to dry out a lot more in between waterings.The watering was what I suspected but this is my 20th auto and the only one from this batch (also the only one of it's strain) that's looking like this. Should I poke s bunch of holes into the soil to get it to air out faster?
They need to dry out a lot more in between waterings.
My VPD is always around 3. Way outta range.get VPD temps transpiration right
Easier to get nute burn too with a higher VPD.I ment that to imply if they transpire more the pot will dry out faster. As does with higher temps
I will put it this way...you need to water in a cycle of wet dry where the plant does not stay wet all the time. That is the only change I would make, and I think it will fix things. The droop and loss of color is classic overwatering.I mean as far as immediate action goes
I will put it this way...you need to water in a cycle of wet dry where the plant does not stay wet all the time. That is the only change I would make, and I think it will fix things. The droop and loss of color is classic overwatering.
One odd thing about growing is there is usually an impulse to water or do something to the plants. Leaving them longer to dry out will show you more improvement than you have imagined so far. Let them dry out way more than you are used to, all of them, and watch the problems go away.
I'm with you on this, I track all my waterings and if you use a method to decide when to water...finger, lift, probe etc, you should stay consistent with it. Even though they want to be watered more often, it still needs direct monitoring. It can change weekly, one week every 2 days, another week every 3 days, it can even bounce around a little. Imo you want to be a robot about it following the same procedure over and over. If you need to feed more or more often that wont cause these problems. If the roots are too wet too long, they stop functioning as well and cause the issues you see. The good part is within a week or 2 it can all be back on track. The pots I use are large enough that I dont have to check the day after watering, but any pot more than a day past watering gets a daily check (and recorded in my log) for reference. Just my 2c and method there are many that work.I USUALLY allow my pots to get hella light but right around the 2nd and 3rd weeks (sometimes sooner) of flowering when I notice them needing to be watered more I'll kick up their feedings proactively. The difference with this plant is it was a new strain for me, acting differently than the ones I'm used to.
I'm with you on this, I track all my waterings and if you use a method to decide when to water...finger, lift, probe etc, you should stay consistent with it. Even though they want to be watered more often, it still needs direct monitoring. It can change weekly, one week every 2 days, another week every 3 days, it can even bounce around a little. Imo you want to be a robot about it following the same procedure over and over. If you need to feed more or more often that wont cause these problems. If the roots are too wet too long, they stop functioning as well and cause the issues you see. The good part is within a week or 2 it can all be back on track. The pots I use are large enough that I dont have to check the day after watering, but any pot more than a day past watering gets a daily check (and recorded in my log) for reference. Just my 2c and method there are many that work.
Excellent! Keep on working it.Thank you for the advice and insight. All seems well now! It blew up!