Wow somebody else who clones like i do,this is a first for me to see another grower make the cuts underwater.
Ok bud heres the deal,alot of peoples problems with clones stems from what type cutting they use for a clone,,i have better luck when i use cuttings that are old growth & have a woody feel to them,i stay away from fresh growth beacuse the flimsy feeling usually ends up being the ones i loose.
Step one,select old growth for the cutting,as soon as you make the cut removing the cutting from the plant submerge the cut end under water,then recut the end at an angle,the reason to recut underwater is a botanist trick to avoid embolisms.
Branches are hollow,kinda like a drinking straw,when we remove the cutting from the plant the cut can suck in air right at the tip of the cutting,this is called an embolism,the air bubble stays at the tip blocking the plants ability to uptake water,thus the cutting never roots.
After you make the underwater cut dip in cloning agent then stick into rapid rooter,here is another important issue,make sure the cutting fits snug in the root plug,if the cutting is loose or spins it should be relocated,i find that rapid rooter plugs have this problem alot,i switched from using rapid rooters to another brand .
After the cutting is snugly inside its plug i then dip the entire rapid rooter into water for a few seconds,then i squeeze out the excess water,then they go inside a humidome,i spray mist the leafs twice a day very heavily.
When i mist i try to keep the canopy of the fresh cuttings out of strong light or a fan so the leafs stay wet & wont wilt,this allows fresh air to kill off any mold spores before they take hold & ruin the clones,before i put everything away i mist the clones again & mist the underside of the humidome to make sure the action of humidity filling the air inside the chamber starts instantly.
I never water the sponge plugs directly,plants are smart but lazy,as the member above so correctly pointed out cuttings wont root easily in wet medium,the reason is simple,if the cutting is taking in enough water via the stem the plant sees no reason to search for water via root growth,all water should be comming into the cuttings via leafs absorbing the mist water.
Next i see a problem with the humidome,the mylar you have on the sides needs removed,mylar is notorius for creating hot spots from reflection,plus it isnt needed,cuttings do need light so they have enough energy to grow roots but they only need the bare minimum,i use a single 24 watt cfl in one of those cheap $5 work light reflectors from home depot,i use that single small light to cover 2 large 96 slot humidomes that are 6 inches high & its perfect,too much light makes the cutting use photosynthisis in high gear which is not what you want,you want just enough light where the plant can photosynthasize & sprout roots,in the case of clones less light is better.
Now for the heat mat,chances are that its overkill at this time of year,pull out a cutting in its plug & feel all areas of the sponge plug checking for warmth,the plug should not feel warm in any way,it should feel cool & moist,when squeezed firmly the plug should have a moisture content where only a few drops of water come out,if the plug has alot of water run out when you squeeze the plug its over watered,anything more than a few drops is excessive water,i pull all my sponge plug cuttings from their slot every 2 days to remove excess moisture from any plugs that absorbed too much water,i hold the plug upside down with the leaves pointing straight twords the floor,i give each one a gentle squeeze & remove any excess moisture.
A cutting will only sprout roots from exact locations,dead center of a branch if your trying to look straight up inside the plant via the cut you will see what appears to be a white layer,this is the (spelling )petiole layer & it is where all roots will grow out of,the reason for cutting at an angle is to expose more surface area,you want to disrupt as many cells as possible within that layer because new roots grow out of ruptured cells within the white layer.
Try taking a new razor blade & scraping all the green layers from the bottom inch of the cuttings stem,dont stop scraping until you see white,if you scrape past the center of the stalk without seeing a white layer you know the cutting is not mature enough to easily grow roots,this will show you what type cutting grows roots easiest,the thicker the white layer means more ruptured cells,more cell disruption means faster root sprouting & more roots in quantity.
Recap.
Take woody feeling cuttings from the plant,submerge the cuttings stalk under water & recut the end approx 1/2 up from the 1st cut,making sure the cutting stays under water while the cut is taking place,allow the stalk to stay under water for 30 seconds or so before diping into cloning agent,i prefer powder but any brand that contains INDOLE- BUTYRIC ACID is the best type to use.
After dipping in the clone agent insert into the rapid rooter making sure its a snug fit,then dip the plug in water to remove any dry spots where roots will not grow,squeeze out all excess water until it stops dripping,put plugs into humidome & remist all cuttings at once making sure to soak the shit out of them,excess water will soak into the plugs & thats ok,after misting all the cuttings mist the underside of the humidome lid & put lid on humidome,place a weak light source over center of humidome,remist leaves twice a day,remove excess water from plugs every other day making sure to remist all leaves & the underside of the humidome.
Remove the heat mat & mylar,follow the instructions & roots will start showing in 10 to 14 days,once you have atleast 2 roots sticking out about 1/2 inch you can transplant into soil or hydro mediums.
If roots are not sticking out of the cube the cutting is not ready to transplant & will most likely die if transplanted too early.