Pots
- smart pots or air pots - 3gallon
- plant into final pots straight away
Soil
-if using nutes: you can use a light soil mix (e.g. biobizz lightmix, as opposed to biobizz allmix which has some nutes in already) or you can use coco coir or pebbles etc.
-If using soil with added nutes: do not supplement with your own ferilizer until specific defficiencies appear, because it can nute burn the seedling
- use garden lime in your soil (calcific lime or dolomite lime) which is made from calcium and magnesium and so you wont need to feed cal/mag nutes. Plus the lime will buffer your soil so the acid doesnt get too high. This means there is far less chance that pH changes will cause nutrient lockout from your roots.
- Use plenty of perlite and/or vermiculite
- Get some soil bacteria e.g. white widdow and mycomadness from humboldt nutrients. They will alllow better nutrient transfer between the feed and the roots and break down organic feed.
nutes
if you are using a light soil mix you will have to add your own nutrients to it. DO NOT feed the first low strength veg feed until about 2 weeks old.
-with autos, you can use type of nutes that are used in all weed plants BUT
-autos grow even till around the last few weeks before harvest, so you should keep supplementing with nitrgogen until well into flowering (for growing stems and leaves) or the plant will start using it from its own fan leaves =smaller buds.
-Dont start feeding bloom nutes straight away. You must wait till the female flowers are proliferating at the nodes of the stem. and start off very very small doses.
- Only feed any of your nutes at 1/4-1/2 strength, because autos dont get as big as regular plants, you will be feeding nutes that arent being used, which accumulate in the soil and will affect the plant health and growth.
- Use some organic mollases if you use soil bacteria. The mollases feed the soil bacteria, which in turn will help your plant get what it needs.
- pH correct your feeds and waterings, you can get test kits for about $4. You want to be near pH6.2-6.4 so that your feeds are used by the plant as soon as you feed them = faster growth.
- You can use pure silicate (i think the most common element in soil) to increase the pH of your feeds, humboldt nutrients do it, its called structural integrity. Not only will it make you feeds less acidic (which always gets more acidic as you add nutrients to water) but it also gives silica to the plant for cell wall growth, which will help prevent fungal infections and makes stems stronger to support more weight at flowering. You can use lemon juice or pure phosphoric acid etc. for decreasing the pH if you make a mistake.
lights
- i heard something like you want AT LEAST 100w per plant. The more watts the better, but watch out for heat issues
- If you aint got a light already, id recommend an air-cooled reflector suitable for a 400-600w HPS bulb.
- You can use the blue spectrum during veg (the first 1-3 weeks of an autos life) and the red spectrum during flower (from around 3-4 weeks to harvest at 9-10 weeks) for concentrated bud sites along the stems, and big bushy flowers.
- use any kind of grow lights, just more watts = more harvest
ventilation
-unless you live in the middle of nowhere, you'll NEED a carbon filter, they really work a treat and save a load of stress and possible arrest.
-You want indirect fans in teh growroom on 24/7. You need circulating air in the grow room to prevent fungus growth expecially in flowering.
-Get some kind of intake/extraction fans to take hot air out. If you use an air-cooled reflector too, then you will have good control of your temperature.
- i got a 4" rhino filter and a 180m3/h inline extractor fan pullin the smelly air through the filter and into my room. As soon as the fan goes off, my room starts to STINK
notes
check out the cannabis deficiency problem solver, get a good one with pics. Its exactly the same as for auto plants
Hope this helped