Which QB to buy

astonehead

Well-Known Member
im looking at adding a quantum board or 2 to my setup.
Will be 6 cxb 3590 3000k 90cri at 50w each.
Should I go for the 4/5k board or stick with the 3000k theme?
Will be running autos so I don't have a dedicated veg light.

Also should I go for the 135w kit or 90w?

Thanks
 

Stephenj37826

Well-Known Member
im looking at adding a quantum board or 2 to my setup.
Will be 6 cxb 3590 3000k 90cri at 50w each.
Should I go for the 4/5k board or stick with the 3000k theme?
Will be running autos so I don't have a dedicated veg light.

Also should I go for the 135w kit or 90w?

Thanks
3000k would be my choice. Also 135 watt isn't much more and you can dim but you can't add more to the 90 watt. Just my 02¢
 

HydoDan

Well-Known Member
im looking at adding a quantum board or 2 to my setup.
Will be 6 cxb 3590 3000k 90cri at 50w each.
Should I go for the 4/5k board or stick with the 3000k theme?
Will be running autos so I don't have a dedicated veg light.

Also should I go for the 135w kit or 90w?

Thanks
I like the 135 watt kit in 4000k for a veg light... Flower go for 3000k..
 

astonehead

Well-Known Member
Thanks guys but I'm thinking now weather I should, i only do 4 maybe 6 plants and this in the middle would it reach outward? Or would I be better off just making it a 9 cob setup
 

VegasWinner

Well-Known Member
Thanks guys but I'm thinking now weather I should, i only do 4 maybe 6 plants and this in the middle would it reach outward? Or would I be better off just making it a 9 cob setup
I run cobs only, and I have found adding a full spectrum cob 380nm-850nm at 1400mA with a Vf of 32v works with a cree setup. I run one at low power for veg and two at high power for bloom and they are a better additon than just watts alone. Plants want reds and blues, along with a small quotient of green. ->http://www.ebay.com/itm/122046189206?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=421067408580&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
 

astonehead

Well-Known Member
I need a way to ad more light in total aswell as ppf as I don't think when I remove the hps that the 300w is going to cut it.
In a 1.2 tent but grow in a 1m tray.
Iv zero experience with leds so I could well be wrong

Thanks
 

VegasWinner

Well-Known Member
I need a way to ad more light in total aswell as ppf as I don't think when I remove the hps that the 300w is going to cut it.
In a 1.2 tent but grow in a 1m tray.
Iv zero experience with leds so I could well be wrong

Thanks
Check out the spectrum analysis on chilledledgrowlights.com that may inspire you. I added more spectrum not more watts and exceeded my expectations. Cobs and white chips don't produce adequate levels of total light spectrum for healthy robust plant growth and development. Additional light spectrum is what white light from cobs and chips needs to round out a complete fixture. The best commercial fixtures address this issue directly where diy ignores it.
 

KonopCh

Well-Known Member
Check out the spectrum analysis on chilledledgrowlights.com that may inspire you. I added more spectrum not more watts and exceeded my expectations. Cobs and white chips don't produce adequate levels of total light spectrum for healthy robust plant growth and development. Additional light spectrum is what white light from cobs and chips needs to round out a complete fixture. The best commercial fixtures address this issue directly where diy ignores it.
So what do you add?
I have 3000K 80 CRI, what do you recommend?
 

VegasWinner

Well-Known Member
So what do you add?
I have 3000K 80 CRI, what do you recommend?
You need more red and blue with 3000k I would add a full spectrum to fill in the gaps easier and cheaper. If you are running 200w driver I would add 50w of full spectrum for balance. Full spectrum adds from 380nm to 840 nm far red deep uv ir royal blue and some green all in one cob. You can buy more expensive but they perform similar to the plant. I use fs and schedule deep red am fs all day fr evening and done with cobs on at full power no diming. Reds do wake up and night time.
 

KonopCh

Well-Known Member
You need more red and blue with 3000k I would add a full spectrum to fill in the gaps easier and cheaper. If you are running 200w driver I would add 50w of full spectrum for balance. Full spectrum adds from 380nm to 840 nm far red deep uv ir royal blue and some green all in one cob. You can buy more expensive but they perform similar to the plant. I use fs and schedule deep red am fs all day fr evening and done with cobs on at full power no diming. Reds do wake up and night time.
Can you name the "full spectrum" chips?
I only know far red, royal blue, UV, IR chips...
 

xX_BHMC_Xx

Well-Known Member
For the record, and anyone who really cares, white light is full spectrum. The only wavelengths missing from white led light are at the far ends of the spectrum (uv/ir) and the affects of those wavelengths are hard to quantify. Adding red, blue, etc., would be considered "enhanced spectrum" and may or may not be more effective for growing plants.
 

VegasWinner

Well-Known Member
For the record, and anyone who really cares, white light is full spectrum. The only wavelengths missing from white led light are at the far ends of the spectrum (uv/ir) and the affects of those wavelengths are hard to quantify. Adding red, blue, etc., would be considered "enhanced spectrum" and may or may not be more effective for growing plants.
No one said cob's are missing wavelength. but for the record the first graph is cxb, cob's as designed ->https://chilledgrowlights.com/yield-max-spectrum-simulation-tool

when you adjust the graph with reds and blues you get this ->https://chilledgrowlights.com/yield-max-spectrum-simulation-tool

Actually, adding reds and blues does effect plant growth, as cxb's, cxa's vero's citizen, all lack the additonal light necessary fort plant growth and development. Commercial greenhouses are not using just white light as the leds used are in the basic format.

Plants need more red and blue for health and growth. plenty of studies on that are already available too numerous to list at this point.

Chillergrowlights spectrum analyzer shows the truth. Cob's have wavelength just not enough to make the difference. I have worked with the reds and blues, IR, UV, RB, DR, FR and have found my results are in agreement with research and the industry.

For the record, cob's lights are not natural light it is artificial light with color coatings to mimic light spectrum. The full light spectrum is not adequately mimiced in cobs alone study the graph of spectrum analysis onm chilled grow lights and you will understand how much more light is needed for healthier plants.

The horticulture industry is not wrong and they do not use white cob's either.
http://spot.colorado.edu/~basey/bluer.htm

Effects of Blue and Red Light on the Rate of Photosynthesis


Braddock, B., S. Mercer, C. Rachelson, and S. Sapp.

CU Boulder, Fall 2001.


We tested the effects of blue and red light on the rate of plant photosynthesis. We hypothesized that light absorption by the plant and the energy level of different wavelengths of light are positively correlated to the rate of photosynthesis. Thus, because blue light has a higher absorbance by plant photosynthetic pigments and has a higher energy wavelength than red light, we predicted that juniper needles placed in blue light would photosynthesize faster than juniper needles placed in red light. We measured the rate of change in CO2 concentration due to juniper needles. For each sample, we placed the needles into a chamber connected to the CO2 monitor and measured the rate of change of CO2 concentration for 10 minutes under red light and then 10 minutes under blue light. We ran three independent trials and alternated which color of light to which the leaves were first exposed. We weighed the juniper needles in each sample so that we could control for differences in mass; the rates of change of CO2 concentration were calculated per gram of juniper needles. We did not test the rate of respiration of the juniper needles in the absence of light because we assumed that the rate of respiration was constant for each sample of juniper needles. We monitored the rate of change in CO2 concentration of an empty chamber as a control to demonstrate that any change in CO2 concentration was a result of the juniper leaves and not the chamber itself changing the concentration of CO2. The rate of change of CO2 concentration in the empty chamber was nearly 0, so we did not have to correct/adjust any values during the experiment due to this control. Plants in red light produced less CO2 over time (photosynthesized faster) than the plants in the blue light for each of our three trials. Two of the three trials in the red light were negative values, reflecting a decrease in the concentration of CO2. These values of the photosynthesis (plus respiration) rates in red light were 0.443, -0.141, and -1.1 ppm/g/min with a mean value of -0.27 ppm/g/min. The values of photosynthesis (plus respiration) rates in blue light were 2.449, 1.667, and 2.997 ppm/g/min with a mean value of 2.36 ppm/g/min. A t-test comparing the mean photosynthetic rates under red and blue light indicated no significant difference (p=0.068). However, this value is close to being significant, so with additional trials of our experiment it is possible that we would come up with a significantly faster rate of photosynthesis under red light compared to blue light. Based upon our results, we rejected our hypothesis. Blue light does not make plant needles photosynthesize faster than red light, and we see a trend towards faster rates of photosynthesis under the red light. Other student projects done in previous years produced similar results. One study found a decreasing rate of photosynthesis in blue light (Mae et. al. 2000). Another study found that the rate of photosynthesis occurred fastest in red light and that the reason for this was because xanthophylls were dissipating the excess energy associated with blue light (Brins et. al. 2000). One possible explanation for our results is that due to the high-energy nature of blue light, some of the blue light shining onto the juniper needles is absorbed by plant pigments other than the chlorophylls and is not transferred to the photosynthetic reactions. Xanthophylls and carotenes are possibly dissipating the high-energy blue light because xanthophylls and carotenes absorb only in the blue spectrum. These energy dissipation mechanisms operate in the blue spectrum because high energy blue light may be damaging to the plant. Further experimentation should be performed to verify our results and to test new hypotheses. In the future, more trials of our experiment should be run to test whether red light is photosynthesizing significantly faster than blue light. New experiments examining how and where blue light is absorbed by juniper needles are needed in order to better understand the effects of blue light on the plant.
 

haze010

Well-Known Member
No disrespect here vegas, im sincerely trying to learn and understand. In the past when ive questioned something ppl have taken it as a personal attack when really its just a quest for knowledge.

So my question here is you say you add 50w of "full spectrum", by that do you mean you are tacking on things like mono's that hit the points the cobs are missing to make that full spectrum? You talk about the need of blues reds ir ect but you dont actually say what you're doing to achieve that. Maybe you did and i just didnt understand it completely. The reason im asking is im designing a led light for myself and i plan on using the majority of it being diode strips of samsung 561c's as the base with the majority of it in the 3k-3500 range and then have monos to fill in other areas like the reds and the blues.

If theres a better way of achieving what i was thinking id love to hear it.

Thanks for any insight.
 

haze010

Well-Known Member
No disrespect here vegas, im sincerely trying to learn and understand. In the past when ive questioned something ppl have taken it as a personal attack when really its just a quest for knowledge.

So my question here is you say you add 50w of "full spectrum", by that do you mean you are tacking on things like mono's that hit the points the cobs are missing to make that full spectrum? You talk about the need of blues reds ir ect but you dont actually say what you're doing to achieve that. Maybe you did and i just didnt understand it completely. The reason im asking is im designing a led light for myself and i plan on using the majority of it being diode strips of samsung 561c's as the base with the majority of it in the 3k-3500 range and then have monos to fill in other areas like the reds and the blues.

If theres a better way of achieving what i was thinking id love to hear it.

Thanks for any insight.
Nevermind, i didnt see the video in your link, you have to expand it to notice the video there, once i watched that it clarified exactly my questions.
 

VegasWinner

Well-Known Member
No disrespect here vegas, im sincerely trying to learn and understand. In the past when ive questioned something ppl have taken it as a personal attack when really its just a quest for knowledge.

So my question here is you say you add 50w of "full spectrum", by that do you mean you are tacking on things like mono's that hit the points the cobs are missing to make that full spectrum? You talk about the need of blues reds ir ect but you dont actually say what you're doing to achieve that. Maybe you did and i just didnt understand it completely. The reason im asking is im designing a led light for myself and i plan on using the majority of it being diode strips of samsung 561c's as the base with the majority of it in the 3k-3500 range and then have monos to fill in other areas like the reds and the blues.

If theres a better way of achieving what i was thinking id love to hear it.

Thanks for any insight.
no problem or attacks. I am sharing. I use a 50w full spectrum cob like the link above was given from ebay. I add one 50w cob to every 200w cxb fixture making 250w but more importantly more light spectrum for the4 plants development. The easy way is if you are using a meanwell HLG-185H-C1400B driver go to a HLG-240H-C1400B to add additional 50w capacity to your light and you now have a commercial grade quality grow light with a 5th cob wired in series.

Grow light design is a balance of watts, efficiency, light spectrum, and intensity, as well as maximizing the diodes capability to deliver joules or micromoles u/moles per watt. Most lights

Rule 1. do NOT use watts as a measure of light capacity and capability use lumens
Rule 2. Light spectrum is most important
Rule 3. PPFD is a target not the solution

Most important is to study the horticulture industry. there is years of research and development there. You will se more "blurple" lights because they use much more full spectrum lighting to get the job done for profits. Vitally created the spectrum analyzer because he is tired of answering the same question over and over that cobs are adequate, without any background or basis of understanding horticulture.

I would look at the Gen2 Chilledgrowlight as the standard if you are going to create a great light. That is what I am doing. He has years of science behind his design and work, and it was tested by the folks here and it equaled an 800w cxb light with 650w of full spectrum lighting.
namaste
 

haze010

Well-Known Member
no problem or attacks. I am sharing. I use a 50w full spectrum cob like the link above was given from ebay. I add one 50w cob to every 200w cxb fixture making 250w but more importantly more light spectrum for the4 plants development. The easy way is if you are using a meanwell HLG-185H-C1400B driver go to a HLG-240H-C1400B to add additional 50w capacity to your light and you now have a commercial grade quality grow light with a 5th cob wired in series.

Grow light design is a balance of watts, efficiency, light spectrum, and intensity, as well as maximizing the diodes capability to deliver joules or micromoles u/moles per watt. Most lights

Rule 1. do NOT use watts as a measure of light capacity and capability use lumens
Rule 2. Light spectrum is most important
Rule 3. PPFD is a target not the solution

Most important is to study the horticulture industry. there is years of research and development there. You will se more "blurple" lights because they use much more full spectrum lighting to get the job done for profits. Vitally created the spectrum analyzer because he is tired of answering the same question over and over that cobs are adequate, without any background or basis of understanding horticulture.

I would look at the Gen2 Chilledgrowlight as the standard if you are going to create a great light. That is what I am doing. He has years of science behind his design and work, and it was tested by the folks here and it equaled an 800w cxb light with 650w of full spectrum lighting.
namaste
Okay youre 100% confirming everything i thought just i was unaware of the particular 50w light and i am using Samsung H series light strips instead of cobs. I was planning on using monos to fill in but now i have some food for thought on what youre using.

The disclaimer at the start is more just cause some ppl around here are too thin skinned and take things the wrong way. Once people get to know me around here they will realize im just looking to learn and at the same time share what i do know and what i learn. Thanks again for the insight, time to reconsider my light plans for like the 30th time in the past few weeks.
 

xX_BHMC_Xx

Well-Known Member
No one said cob's are missing wavelength.
Actually, you did, at least 4 times on this page alone.

Cobs and white chips don't produce adequate levels of total light spectrum for healthy robust plant growth and development...

cxb's, cxa's vero's citizen, all lack the additonal light necessary fort plant growth and development.

Plants need more red and blue for health and growth.

The full light spectrum is not adequately mimiced in cobs alone
Which simply isn't true. Case in point:

(Obviously not my pic)

No one said cob's are missing wavelength. but for the record the first graph is cxb, cob's as designed ->https://chilledgrowlights.com/yield-max-spectrum-simulation-tool
No, that's a graph of Samsung 561c as that is what ChilLED uses in that light, and again, you did say that.

Effects of Blue and Red Light on the Rate of Photosynthesis


Braddock, B., S. Mercer, C. Rachelson, and S. Sapp.

CU Boulder, Fall 2001.


We tested the effects of blue and red light on the rate of plant photosynthesis. We hypothesized that light absorption by the plant and the energy level of different wavelengths of light are positively correlated to the rate of photosynthesis. Thus, because blue light has a higher absorbance by plant photosynthetic pigments and has a higher energy wavelength than red light, we predicted that juniper needles placed in blue light would photosynthesize faster than juniper needles placed in red light. We measured the rate of change in CO2 concentration due to juniper needles. For each sample, we placed the needles into a chamber connected to the CO2 monitor and measured the rate of change of CO2 concentration for 10 minutes under red light and then 10 minutes under blue light. We ran three independent trials and alternated which color of light to which the leaves were first exposed. We weighed the juniper needles in each sample so that we could control for differences in mass; the rates of change of CO2 concentration were calculated per gram of juniper needles. We did not test the rate of respiration of the juniper needles in the absence of light because we assumed that the rate of respiration was constant for each sample of juniper needles. We monitored the rate of change in CO2 concentration of an empty chamber as a control to demonstrate that any change in CO2 concentration was a result of the juniper leaves and not the chamber itself changing the concentration of CO2. The rate of change of CO2 concentration in the empty chamber was nearly 0, so we did not have to correct/adjust any values during the experiment due to this control. Plants in red light produced less CO2 over time (photosynthesized faster) than the plants in the blue light for each of our three trials. Two of the three trials in the red light were negative values, reflecting a decrease in the concentration of CO2. These values of the photosynthesis (plus respiration) rates in red light were 0.443, -0.141, and -1.1 ppm/g/min with a mean value of -0.27 ppm/g/min. The values of photosynthesis (plus respiration) rates in blue light were 2.449, 1.667, and 2.997 ppm/g/min with a mean value of 2.36 ppm/g/min. A t-test comparing the mean photosynthetic rates under red and blue light indicated no significant difference (p=0.068). However, this value is close to being significant, so with additional trials of our experiment it is possible that we would come up with a significantly faster rate of photosynthesis under red light compared to blue light. Based upon our results, we rejected our hypothesis. Blue light does not make plant needles photosynthesize faster than red light, and we see a trend towards faster rates of photosynthesis under the red light. Other student projects done in previous years produced similar results. One study found a decreasing rate of photosynthesis in blue light (Mae et. al. 2000). Another study found that the rate of photosynthesis occurred fastest in red light and that the reason for this was because xanthophylls were dissipating the excess energy associated with blue light (Brins et. al. 2000). One possible explanation for our results is that due to the high-energy nature of blue light, some of the blue light shining onto the juniper needles is absorbed by plant pigments other than the chlorophylls and is not transferred to the photosynthetic reactions. Xanthophylls and carotenes are possibly dissipating the high-energy blue light because xanthophylls and carotenes absorb only in the blue spectrum. These energy dissipation mechanisms operate in the blue spectrum because high energy blue light may be damaging to the plant. Further experimentation should be performed to verify our results and to test new hypotheses. In the future, more trials of our experiment should be run to test whether red light is photosynthesizing significantly faster than blue light. New experiments examining how and where blue light is absorbed by juniper needles are needed in order to better understand the effects of blue light on the plant.
That's great, and I'm sure at least somewhat relevant, but we're not growing juniper trees now are we? Does a single-subject study of an evergreen really correlate to a high light/short cycle crop like cannabis?
 

VegasWinner

Well-Known Member
Actually, you did, at least 4 times on this page alone.


Which simply isn't true. Case in point:

(Obviously not my pic)


No, that's a graph of Samsung 561c as that is what ChilLED uses in that light, and again, you did say that.


That's great, and I'm sure at least somewhat relevant, but we're not growing juniper trees now are we? Does a single-subject study of an evergreen really correlate to a high light/short cycle crop like cannabis?
Pictures of growmau5 weed grow does not justify cobs have adequate light the spectral graph shows cxb cobs and the addition of red and blues fills out the spectrum. Cobs do not provide the total photosynthesis energy available to plants just the minimum. Pretty pictures of weed grow but light efficacy and efficiency is not determined by watts alone.
Btw, thanks for proving my point. You provide pics of fan club leaders grow like that is the bible while down playing science. Some of us have been growing before some of you were in elementary school before google and such.

Current crop of crow leaders were kids on my last run and I knew the men that held those screen names for more than 20 years
 
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