Will gu10 LEDs work?

PSUAGRO.

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
It's an upgrade from cfls for sure. 3000k/5000k is a better blend that has worked really well for nextlight fixtures over the years.

Keep in mind you're halving your wattage....... less heat for the grow , if you need it in the cold season?

Good luck
 
KrazyG

KrazyG

Well-Known Member
PSUAGRO. said:
It's an upgrade from cfls for sure. 3000k/5000k is a better blend that has worked really well for nextlight fixtures over the years.

Keep in mind you're halving your wattage....... less heat for the grow , if you need it in the cold season?

Good luck
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I'm running a 300w dual spectrum bulb and it kicks out a lot of heat which can cause problems in summer. I can increase room temps in winter so that's no issue. I grow in a cab and I burn my head quite regularly on the bulb lol.
My other option is to build an overhead assembly using the same LEDs I use for side lighting

My set upIMG_20171114_195811911.jpg IMG_20171114_195854786.jpg IMG_20171206_173051559.jpg
 
nfhiggs

nfhiggs

Well-Known Member
KrazyG said:
Hi RIU, So I'm thinking of ditching my CFL and going led bulbs. I work on a tight budget and I'm thinking of building a new rig, seen these 9w gu10 LEDs and I'm wondering if I'm gonna be wasting time and money. I was gonna use 10 @3000k and 10 @6500k. Any input appreciated.

https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-10x-GU10-6W-9W-Dimmable-LED-Lamps-Spot-Integrate-Light-Day-Warm-White-Bulbs/371724933768?hash=item568c885a88:m:mRnEdF5M8ds97Dm2bJWJmwA
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They will work better and more efficiently than CFL. Remove the plastic "bulb" portion of the light to expose the LEDs directly.
 
Chip Green

Chip Green

Well-Known Member
I'm betting those bulbs will surprise some folks how well they will work, given that a suitable number of bulbs are used. (which you are) Splitting hairs over lumen/watt in that sized area would be absurd!!!
The "low" efficiency is still a substantial upgrade from the CFL output/w....
Before I had the investment finances for my EB strip builds, I had a brainchild of building a big panel out of the innards of similar bulbs....I have a local liquidator store that has pallets of the 9w in 4 packs for $2 USD....Every bulb in my house is LED.
I cant imagine you'll ever regret trying them out....you'll gain space too.

That is a bitchin cab setup btw!
 
KrazyG

KrazyG

Well-Known Member
Chip Green said:
I'm betting those bulbs will surprise some folks how well they will work, given that a suitable number of bulbs are used. (which you are) Splitting hairs over lumen/watt in that sized area would be absurd!!!
The "low" efficiency is still a substantial upgrade from the CFL output/w....
Before I had the investment finances for my EB strip builds, I had a brainchild of building a big panel out of the innards of similar bulbs....I have a local liquidator store that has pallets of the 9w in 4 packs for $2 USD....Every bulb in my house is LED.
I cant imagine you'll ever regret trying them out....you'll gain space too.

That is a bitchin cab setup btw!
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Thanks dude, the build has cost less than £100 so far, if I build the new lights it will take me upto £140. The CFL was never my best option but I didn't want to go down the Chinese burple road.
 
KrazyG

KrazyG

Well-Known Member
@Chip Green just a lil update on the build. So the bulbs I looked at were out of stock, so I got 15w instead, obviously not true wattage. Total cost £52. IMG_20180203_113243031.jpg IMG_20180203_113318692.jpg IMG_20180203_113419853.jpg IMG_20180204_162638624.jpg IMG_20180204_162617971.jpg
 
Chip Green

Chip Green

Well-Known Member
Those could absolutely be actual 15w draw.... Every cheapo 9-10w LED bulb I've tested has been accurate.... Some say 60w replacement, actual 9.5w....

That's the funny thing about the marketing angle... For home lighting, companies want to advertise the LEAST amount of Wattage to generate sales.
 
KrazyG

KrazyG

Well-Known Member
Chip Green said:
Those could absolutely be actual 15w draw.... Every cheapo 9-10w LED bulb I've tested has been accurate.... Some say 60w replacement, actual 9.5w....

That's the funny thing about the marketing angle... For home lighting, companies want to advertise the LEAST amount of Wattage to generate sales.
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So if that's the case and it's pulling 300w does that mean it outputs 300w?
On the specs it gives 15w, 800lm and 80cri.
 
F

Fubard

Well-Known Member
KrazyG said:
So if that's the case and it's pulling 300w does that mean it outputs 300w?
On the specs it gives 15w, 800lm and 80cri.
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800lm? That's equivalent to 60w incandescent if I remember right so that should be a rough base to start working from to get an idea of things.
 
nfhiggs

nfhiggs

Well-Known Member
Fubard said:
800lm? That's equivalent to 60w incandescent if I remember right so that should be a rough base to start working from to get an idea of things.
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No, not really. Incandescent equivalence tells us literally nothing useful.
 
F

Fubard

Well-Known Member
nfhiggs said:
No, not really. Incandescent equivalence tells us literally nothing useful.
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Am trying to remember the equivalence on raw output, not the colour or spectrum the light puts out as we know that different lights give different results there. So the only thing you can really look at regarding "watts" and output is the equivalence between the led and incandescent as the output from the likes of hps is something totally different.

He asked if the 300w from the wall means 300w "output" and it doesn't, all we can say is that it's equivalent to "X" of a certain type of light. That's all I'm saying and maybe should have been clearer on that.
 
nfhiggs

nfhiggs

Well-Known Member
Fubard said:
Am trying to remember the equivalence on raw output, not the colour or spectrum the light puts out as we know that different lights give different results there. So the only thing you can really look at regarding "watts" and output is the equivalence between the led and incandescent as the output from the likes of hps is something totally different.

He asked if the 300w from the wall means 300w "output" and it doesn't, all we can say is that it's equivalent to "X" of a certain type of light. That's all I'm saying and maybe should have been clearer on that.
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The "raw wattage" of incandescent lights is not of any useful value whatsoever. We simply do not grow using 100W incandescent bulbs so any wattage equivalent is meaningless. No one tries to say their COBs or even their HPS is "equivalent" to an incandescent wattage. Its useful only for determining if a light is going to be useful for reading, watching TV, or eating your dinner under.

Lumen ouput is what you need to know to get an idea of how much light its putting out.
 
Chip Green

Chip Green

Well-Known Member
Watts is a unit of consumption. 20x15w "engines" consumes 300W.
These particular engines, generate 800 lumens from 15 consumed watts.
That's a pretty low Lumen/ watt ratio, but that dosent matter that much in this case. Better emitters have much higher photon output, per W consumed. Higher efficiency is beneficial, but in small areas the gains are small enough to have less value.
That's why using W/ sq foot, can get goofy with LED.
 
F

Fubard

Well-Known Member
nfhiggs said:
The "raw wattage" of incandescent lights is not of any useful value whatsoever. We simply do not grow using 100W incandescent bulbs so any wattage equivalent is meaningless. No one tries to say their COBs or even their HPS is "equivalent" to an incandescent wattage. Its useful only for determining if a light is going to be useful for reading, watching TV, or eating your dinner under.

Lumen ouput is what you need to know to get an idea of how much light its putting out.
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And he asked regarding "output watts", and comparing that to incandescent is the only comparison which can be done without a PAR meter and even then that figure is not going to be related to "watts from the wall", is it. That's what he was asking, that's why he got the answer he got.
 
nfhiggs

nfhiggs

Well-Known Member
Fubard said:
And he asked regarding "output watts", and comparing that to incandescent is the only comparison which can be done without a PAR meter and even then that figure is not going to be related to "watts from the wall", is it. That's what he was asking, that's why he got the answer he got.
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He did not get an answer, he got nonsense. Wall watts are simply the total watts consumed - Watts going to the LED plus the driver efficiency wattage loss. Dragging incandescent equivalence into it tells OP exactly nothing useful whatsoever and simply adds confusion. He has twenty 15W lights, that's 300 watts total, and it's making 16000 total lumens. The idea that he has 1200 "incandescent equivalent watts" is utterly useless information and only serves to confuse the issue further.
 
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