Wiring 10 2' Brudgelux EB Gen 2 with HLG-185H-24 (Constant Current)

Hey folks,

I was hoping to have some help in figuring out the wiring for building my DIY Quantum with CC. I was hoping to wire in parallel using the 4 connectors per light, but I am not too sure how to do it. From what I have seen, I can use wago connectors to make it parallel, but I am assuming the 4 connectors can allow one to setup parallel without additional junctions.

Setup in in a 4x4 tent, so I will be having a total of 20 lights with 2 drivers (Brudgelux EB Gen 2 HLG-185H-24)

I've attached an image of my current setup. Feel free to draw over top, I put the 4 connectors from the first strip in red boxes.

Thanks for your help

P.S. I know I should've gotten the 24A/24AB but the 24blank should suffice (as far as I know)

AlphaKilo said:

Hey folks,

I was hoping to have some help in figuring out the wiring for building my DIY Quantum with CC. I was hoping to wire in parallel using the 4 connectors per light, but I am not too sure how to do it. From what I have seen, I can use wago connectors to make it parallel, but I am assuming the 4 connectors can allow one to setup parallel without additional junctions.

Setup in in a 4x4 tent, so I will be having a total of 20 lights with 2 drivers (Brudgelux EB Gen 2 HLG-185H-24)

I've attached an image of my current setup. Feel free to draw over top, I put the 4 connectors from the first strip in red boxes.

Thanks for your help

P.S. I know I should've gotten the 24A/24AB but the 24blank should suffice (as far as I know)

Click to expand...

Sang, I'm surprised you even found a BlanK to purchase. They usually aren't even easy to find, cause so many people aren't using them over the A/AB. You just won't be able to dim at all, but raising up your lights the same thing.
Brother, to wire in parallel, it's a simple concept to keep in mind and the wiring will come to you naturally.
Wiring in parallel means you will need to run the positive and negative leads from the driver to each board, using just one connector.

Kinda confusing in the beginning of your post you say "CC" which is constant current. Your driver is CV Constant Voltage. Just wanna clarify that.

BTW, sweeeeeet cookie sheet build. Those really are super efficient at keeping those strips cool, and it's world's cheaper than heatsinking each one individually.

Thanks for the response. Should I take your response to mean that I should put the leads in wagos and branch from there? I assumed 2 +ve and 2 -ve on each board would allow me to avoid the wago connectors.

Luckily I don't plan on dimming my lights as they should only power the lights to around ~60% anyways , but definitely goofed while on digikey.

Thanks for the props on the sheet, they are CAD$8.99 through Nella.

AlphaKilo said:

Thanks for the response. Should I take your response to mean that I should put the leads in wagos and branch from there? I assumed 2 +ve and 2 -ve on each board would allow me to avoid the wago connectors.

Luckily I don't plan on dimming my lights as they should only power the lights to around ~60% anyways , but definitely goofed while on digikey.

Thanks for the props on the sheet, they are CAD$8.99 through Nella.

Click to expand...

Yeah, use 14 gauge wire for Wago to Wago connections(1 lever of a 5port) and 18 for the branches to the strips.
What do you mean it'll only run at 60%? That driver will push it's full amperage through however many strips you put on it. The more you have on it, the less current each will get and vice versa.

Each strip will only be getting its around 60% of its max current because there are 10 strips. Calculations per the led gardener parallel strip calculator.

Shame I can't connect the strips in parallel without the wagos... oh well

AlphaKilo said:

Each strip will only be getting its around 60% of its max current because there are 10 strips. Calculations per the led gardener parallel strip calculator.

Shame I can't connect the strips in parallel without the wagos... oh well

Click to expand...

Sure you can... You can't use that driver for series wiring brother, it's totally wrong. Again, that is a Constant VOLTAGE Driver.
To wire in parallel using no wagos,is as simple as extending the leads from the driver to run the full length of your fixture, or at least to where it will reach the last strip, then just simply strip a small piece of wire, just enough to wrap another wire around it and solder it. You probably don't even need to cut any of the wire jacket off, but instead just slice it all the way around and pull it apart. You need such a small portion to be exposed, just so you can wrap another piece of wire around it. Just be sure to solder it WELL and insulate it somehow. Maybe use a dab of hot glue or somethin.
Do the same for the negative lead as well!