CustomHydro
Well-Known Member
Woops, I can be a real moron sometimes... It's 240..
Do I need a different breaker?
Electrical Ques. If I can help someone I will...
- Thread starter kushmonster
- Start date
Do I need a different breaker?
CustomHydro
Well-Known Member
Yes I'm in the us, and I don't want 240, I want 120 (I'm not experienced in this, the only wiroing I have done before was on auto's & Cycles so never had a choice in voltage....
I used 10 guage solid, I know thats pushing it, do u think I should just go to a 30 amp or will I be okay?
ganjagoddess
Well-Known Member
Yes you need a Single pole breaker! The black goes into the breaker, the white and bare copper wire into the bus bar. dont put em into the same slot though. The white needs its own slot, but the bare ground can be doubled up with another ground if need be. Tighten Really good.
And boy am I glad I asked you what gauge wire you used.
You had better switch that to a 30 amp. You were gonna melt that wire right through and burn the mother down...
BigBudBalls
Well-Known Member
Yuppers. Oversizing wire is not a problem (other then cost)
Over sizing the breaker is a *bad* thing.
Hey gg, did you get my reply to your pm? I'm testing out a few a proxies and it can be strange at times.
CustomHydro
Well-Known Member
Damn, I need those amps. I got lucky tho and found a 12/3 G wire running from my main to the attic, and it stops right above my room... (it's just there, not connected to a thing, maybe for a bathroom fan that never got installed??) I can use that right, I just only use the wh/bl/g, and leave the red be?? If that will work I can run a 20amp off that and a 30 off of the 10/2 g...
It's really a great thing u are here to hwlp all the time GG. U answer everyones questions no matter how dumb they may seem to u... I really appreciate the help.
jayrollinhippy
Active Member
lol you are running 240 volts
ganjagoddess
Well-Known Member
Ya I did get the PM thank you, still trying to figure out how to find relays that will run off the output, control 120v and at low aps,
All the ones I have found have a min range of amps, and a maximum.
Still working out the bugs. Any Suggestions?
Theoretically, That would work. Um have you traced back to what breaker its connected to, and checked if it is truly independant of other circuts?
Also BigBudBalls can clarify if it is ok to use 10/3 as if it were 10/2 wire, Im not clear whether or not that doable per SEC Code.
But in theory ya your all set. Just throw up some receps.
BigBudBalls
Well-Known Member
A min spec and max?? Sounds *very* odd. You might see a 65ma and 6A on the same. If so, then the smaller one (65ma) is the coil power requirements and the larger (6a) the contact rating.
Other option is a solid state relay (SSR) they have different control and output configs. and usually draw very little current to 'fire', like 5-10ma but can switch a 15 amp load no prob.
A good place for some DIY stuff is All Electronics | Electronic and Electro-Mechanical Parts and Supplies at Discount Prices
ganjagoddess
Well-Known Member
You know, I think im just gonna go with one of these suckers.
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=+1]ACF 120v Programmable Plug-in Thermostat [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=-1]Plug-N-Play, For Heating or Cooling
This thermostat is very accurate and can be used to control 110/120 volt heating or cooling appliances (15 amp max). To operate, simply plug it into an outlet, and plug your appliance into the front of the thermostat! This energy-saving thermostat has up to 4 different daily temperature settings during weekdays and another 4 on weekends. The thermostat can be set to automatically lower the night temperature and raise it in the morning and you will have 2 extra settings that can be set to automatically raise or lower the temperature at anytime. Simply flip open the protective cover to access the easy-to-use controls. Temperature range is 45° to 90° F. Thermostat comes with a battery backup so programs are not lost in a power outage. Batteries (included).
[/SIZE][/FONT]
[SIZE=+1][SIZE=+1]Price:[/SIZE][SIZE=+1] [/SIZE][/SIZE][SIZE=+1]$59.95[/SIZE] [SIZE=+1] [/SIZE] qty:
It seems to me that for the price of the Programmable thermostat, relays, ect It would cost about this anyways, and I would always prefer a premade system.
what are your thoughts on this unit BBB?
Use 1 for the heater, and 1 for the ac.
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=+1]ACF 120v Programmable Plug-in Thermostat [/SIZE][/FONT]
This thermostat is very accurate and can be used to control 110/120 volt heating or cooling appliances (15 amp max). To operate, simply plug it into an outlet, and plug your appliance into the front of the thermostat! This energy-saving thermostat has up to 4 different daily temperature settings during weekdays and another 4 on weekends. The thermostat can be set to automatically lower the night temperature and raise it in the morning and you will have 2 extra settings that can be set to automatically raise or lower the temperature at anytime. Simply flip open the protective cover to access the easy-to-use controls. Temperature range is 45° to 90° F. Thermostat comes with a battery backup so programs are not lost in a power outage. Batteries (included).
[/SIZE][/FONT]
[SIZE=+1][SIZE=+1]Price:[/SIZE][SIZE=+1] [/SIZE][/SIZE][SIZE=+1]$59.95[/SIZE] [SIZE=+1] [/SIZE] qty:
It seems to me that for the price of the Programmable thermostat, relays, ect It would cost about this anyways, and I would always prefer a premade system.
what are your thoughts on this unit BBB?
Use 1 for the heater, and 1 for the ac.
CustomHydro
Well-Known Member
I have not hooked it up to a breaker yet to check it, I just found it...
BBB, can u verify if that would be dangerous to use 12/3 as 12/2?
I don't think this will help what u all are working on, but someone may want to use it, check here... International Cannagraphic Magazine Forums - Thermostat Controlled Outlets (for cooling), just plug in a couple fans or a single Air conditioner and set the temp and ur good to go... I just threw one together real easily and it is perfect for what I need.
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ganjagoddess
Well-Known Member
Ahh yes, unfortionatly though it isnt programmable for different temps for night day...
Just one setting, still Im repping ya for the find!
Just one setting, still Im repping ya for the find!
CustomHydro
Well-Known Member
Good lookin out GG
BigBudBalls
Well-Known Member
You want to use 12/3 for a system that only needs 12/2?
Not a prob. Your car has a spare tire, no? Just cap off the extra wire at both ends.
I started a thread and someone pointed me in this direction.
Im in need of some help with my MH, building a DIY Projector and can not find anything on wiring this up except for ones that have up to 7 wires comming off the ballast but i only have 4. I know this setup works because it was wired up and working at one time, not sure of the brand but its a 70w ballast, 70/100w ignitor, socket and 70w bulb. The pink and blue wires coming from the ballast are over what i think is the short end ( has thinner gauge wire than the other side )
What i need is someone to say connect [ballast, color] wire to [socket, color] wire, etc....
Im in need of some help with my MH, building a DIY Projector and can not find anything on wiring this up except for ones that have up to 7 wires comming off the ballast but i only have 4. I know this setup works because it was wired up and working at one time, not sure of the brand but its a 70w ballast, 70/100w ignitor, socket and 70w bulb. The pink and blue wires coming from the ballast are over what i think is the short end ( has thinner gauge wire than the other side )
What i need is someone to say connect [ballast, color] wire to [socket, color] wire, etc....
I think you need a capacitor. I didnt think MH needed an ignitor?
www.simplyhydro.com/images/ballast.htm
after doing some research it looks as tho some MH dont have capacitors.
www.simplyhydro.com/images/ballast.htm
after doing some research it looks as tho some MH dont have capacitors.
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As far as i know it's a Metal Halide, was originally my brothers ( worked for lowes as an electrician specialist ) which he used for growing, he then gave me 2 sets of these which i gave one up to a friend and we used them for growing. Then i jumped out of the grow scene and ended up throwing mine away and this one was the loaner i gave to my friend, as far as i remember i don't think mine had a CAP ( it might have but memory is vague ). Its possible that my friend removed the CAP to use for some other reason cause it was returned it this condition. But from what i remember when it was in use it was blueish in color and had no CAP.
ganjagoddess
Well-Known Member
The black round cylinder in the pic is the capacitor???
Besides color are they labled with lettering, caus I could help you out if they are otherwise I dont know whats what.
Besides color are they labled with lettering, caus I could help you out if they are otherwise I dont know whats what.
I figured it was an ignitor since it has 3 wires but here goes.
Socket = 4-K Pulse Rated Challen____ <-- the rest has rubbed off but i think it says Challenger
Ignitor (i think) = 600-0016 MH70/100 Watt Made in Mexico. Top says 9920.
Ballast = Top half of label ripped off. OP CUR: 2.4 , START CUR: 2.8, WATT: 70 , LAMP: m98 MH , OCV: 280 , INSUL: RBI-200 , 400-0745 , RU E124006.
There is a wiring diagram but i only understand half of it, prob should have posted the diagram earlier, i hope it's readable, also on a side note i prob wouldn't trust the wire colors to much as its possible the wires on the ballast may have been removed and put back in the wrong place but they could be in the right place but im just not 100% sure.
Socket = 4-K Pulse Rated Challen____ <-- the rest has rubbed off but i think it says Challenger
Ignitor (i think) = 600-0016 MH70/100 Watt Made in Mexico. Top says 9920.
Ballast = Top half of label ripped off. OP CUR: 2.4 , START CUR: 2.8, WATT: 70 , LAMP: m98 MH , OCV: 280 , INSUL: RBI-200 , 400-0745 , RU E124006.
There is a wiring diagram but i only understand half of it, prob should have posted the diagram earlier, i hope it's readable, also on a side note i prob wouldn't trust the wire colors to much as its possible the wires on the ballast may have been removed and put back in the wrong place but they could be in the right place but im just not 100% sure.
Code:
BLK \/\/\/\/BLU------
\ | |BLU |
/ | | |
\ RED-[STR] (0)
/ | |
\ |WHT |
COM-------WHT--------
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spark1
Well-Known Member
Easy as pie,Violated! Hook all the white wires together. Hook the black from the cord to the black on the ballast and the green wire to the case that holds your ballast.Hook the blue ballast wire to the blue wire on the capacitor and the black wire on the socket. Hook the red ballast wire to the red capacitor wire. Then plug her in and rep me.LOL
ganjagoddess
Well-Known Member
its not a ignitor its a capacitor.