Need help with lower leaves yellowing

FresnoFarmer

FresnoFarmer

Well-Known Member
I am wondering how bad my water is. If anyone can help me read this chart it would be much appreciated.

I have plants yellowing from the bottom up. I was thinking it was due to high calcium in my tapwater locking out magnesium. But I'm wayyy to high to read this shit lol. I am feeding half strength with Alaska Fish Fertilizer. Idk if I need to up the nutes or just supplement with extra magnesium. I will post pictures of the yellowing soon.

water.png
 
weedenhanced

weedenhanced

Well-Known Member
U need a scientist lol btw ur plants look ok to me I wouldnt even worry
If u fear mag lock out goto super market buy some epson salts and mix about 1 tea spoon to a litre of luke warm water and sit in partial sun for 1 day then take inside and foilage feed ur plants ince or twice leaves should suck in a fair amount
 
BenFranklin

BenFranklin

Well-Known Member
To young to be suffering deficiency. I am going to assume that your PH is off and is locking out nitrogen.
 
S

sacro

Active Member
Have to agree, low N and plant cannibalizing itself. Try adding some bonemeal to your soilmix when you repot. Works like a charm for me every time :)

Sent from my D5503 using Rollitup mobile app
 
FresnoFarmer

FresnoFarmer

Well-Known Member
Thanks guys. I figured it was low N. The ph seems to be pretty balanced. I just fed the plants a good dose of nitrogen based ferts with a lil Epsom salt for good measure. Also foliar fed them with the same mix this morning. They seem to be fine for now. I always have a problem with feeding too light in fear of nute burn. Your help is much appreciated.
 
FresnoFarmer

FresnoFarmer

Well-Known Member
The ph of my water is on average 8.7 and the ph of my nutes is 4.5 or lower so wouldn't this balance out? I think it balances out to around 6.6 or something like that. I will be getting a ph pen soon just to make sure. I have never had a problem with ph, but it never hurts to monitor it.
 
BenFranklin

BenFranklin

Well-Known Member
FresnoFarmer said:
The ph of my water is on average 8.7 and the ph of my nutes is 4.5 or lower so wouldn't this balance out? I think it balances out to around 6.6 or something like that. I will be getting a ph pen soon just to make sure. I have never had a problem with ph, but it never hurts to monitor it.
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Uh.. no.. IT would be nice if it worked that way, but, no, it doesn't work that way.... You need to get yourself a PH reader of some sort, either a chemical test kit, or a digital reader. I consider my Hanna PH/TD/EC digital tester that I bought for $275 to be the SINGLE most important part of my garden besides lighting. Your PH MUST be under control, and your PH for hydroponics at the least, should be between 6.20 and 5.38(I've read that's about as low as you want to go, but have heard of people running at 5.20)..

For soil it should be like you say.. about 6.6 to 7.2....

Once you get your PH under control the plants will take the hell off...
 
Fangule

Fangule

Well-Known Member
BenFranklin said:
That........ Looks like something that was watery, but, took a while to dry out and used the sun to act like a magnifying glass and burned your plant.

I wouldn't worry about it, if it really bugs you, take the leaf off.. =)
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Negative it's a larvae.
 
Fangule

Fangule

Well-Known Member
Nah just the leaves. Fly's lay eggs underside, the maggots get into the leaves and munch away. It doesn't hinder the leaves much but is bad for small plants. There outdoors so your subjected to the wild.
 
Thckingdom

Thckingdom

Member
BenFranklin said:
Uh.. no.. IT would be nice if it worked that way, but, no, it doesn't work that way.... You need to get yourself a PH reader of some sort, either a chemical test kit, or a digital reader. I consider my Hanna PH/TD/EC digital tester that I bought for $275 to be the SINGLE most important part of my garden besides lighting. Your PH MUST be under control, and your PH for hydroponics at the least, should be between 6.20 and 5.38(I've read that's about as low as you want to go, but have heard of people running at 5.20)..

For soil it should be like you say.. about 6.6 to 7.2....

Once you get your PH under control the plants will take the hell off...
Click to expand...
Ph veg 6 to 6.5 ,ph flower 6 to 5.5 best to stay around , I stay about six the whole grow an pull 4-5 lbs each plant ,below 5.5 an above 7 you will run into problems so as my rule of thumb stay in the middle an have a stress free grow,there are so many options but this is a safe one,I'm not sure what kind of system you use or could elaborate a lot more,4pot dwc 20lbs on ph6 whole grow
 
Fangule

Fangule

Well-Known Member
My bad Fresno for off topic in your thread. I also notice some yellowing on new seeds from time to time. It is me usually doing less is more. I stay organic so i make my own soil. Bro unless you can get your hands on some good soil I recommend you to make your own. I over did it once with the organics so be warned you can make some pretty hot soil with organics. Even with just plain good soil add Azomite Glacial, Rock Dust and Calcitic Dolomite Lime. This is good base soil now. Good for seeds and cuttings as the plant grows you then need to figure out an NPK schedule or add it to the dirt. I use bone/blood meals and Alfalfa. I also use Epsoma Bio Tone, organic and not too hot and it comes with Microbic Colony forming Units, awesome stuff.
 
FresnoFarmer

FresnoFarmer

Well-Known Member
@Fangule It's all good. I think you are right about the yellowing being from the "less is more" approach. I always start out slow and bump it up until I see slight nute burn. I think that is all it was, they were trying to tell me they need more nutes. Still easier to fix than a nuked seedling haha. If you want to get rid of the larvae just spray the plants with BT(bacillus thuringiensis). I have found it very effective against worms.
 
BenFranklin

BenFranklin

Well-Known Member
Thckingdom said:
Ph veg 6 to 6.5 ,ph flower 6 to 5.5 best to stay around , I stay about six the whole grow an pull 4-5 lbs each plant ,below 5.5 an above 7 you will run into problems so as my rule of thumb stay in the middle an have a stress free grow,there are so many options but this is a safe one,I'm not sure what kind of system you use or could elaborate a lot more,4pot dwc 20lbs on ph6 whole grow
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I am certainly glad that you can pull 4-5 lbs each plant on 4 plants for 20 lbs, glad to know that you have the expertise to do so well with your own grows, however, 5.5 is for hydro, he is not growing in hydro, he is growing in soil. Which is what I originally posted an explanation for, and referenced both hydro and soil...

I make that mistake of not reading carefully myself sometimes.

Good day to you, sir.
 
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Thckingdom

Thckingdom

Member
BenFranklin said:
5.5 is for hydro, he is not growing in hydro, he is clearly growing in soil.
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Ok just pointing out that ph6 is a safe level to grow in any set up or medium you choose to run, the plant I will show are in soil feed on 3$ nutes only feed twice in bud an they are booming for 32day in 56 day grow.ph6 image.jpg
 
Fangule

Fangule

Well-Known Member
FresnoFarmer said:
@Fangule It's all good. I think you are right about the yellowing being from the "less is more" approach. I always start out slow and bump it up until I see slight nute burn. I think that is all it was, they were trying to tell me they need more nutes. Still easier to fix than a nuked seedling haha. If you want to get rid of the larvae just spray the plants with BT(bacillus thuringiensis). I have found it very effective against worms.
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Yeah I just made some AACT with a whole BT dunk. Thanks.
 
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