DiY LED - Cree CXA3070

CaliWorthington

CaliWorthington

Well-Known Member
The last 16" fan I bought at a hydro store went about an hour before it started making a racket. Maybe it was because I wedged the end of a Co2 hose into the fan wire and that threw it off. I'll try another one, I could use more turbulence in there.

Also we're going to be mounting a couple 140mm fans on the driver board, so that should help too. Supe was kind enough to build up a dual fan splitter that I can install myself.
 
CaliWorthington

CaliWorthington

Well-Known Member
Rrog said:
I'll be re-circulating / exchanging air with the rest of the house thru carbon scrubbers. I need a CO2 exchange as well as to remove warmed air
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I vent out through a scrubber, intake comes through the door. I'm probably going to add a portable AC unit.
 
CaliWorthington

CaliWorthington

Well-Known Member
Well for this room I'll probably just get an Active Air on wheels. I know a hydro dealer who has a used KwiKool unit for cheap, but it might be too big. When I build a room from scratch I'll go with a mini split, the Aura brand is supposed to be a good one.

Hey thanks for all the likes guys, I've achieved Well Known status in a relatively short time. bongsmilie
 
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SupraSPL

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
I had to shut down the fresh air due to humidity and I am very surprised at how fast CO2 rose. The exhaust air from the grow space was up to 1000ppm and the air upstairs is about 1300ppm. So apparently, the CO2 levels are much higher with windows closed than open as long as someone is there to breathe (2 people in a total air space ~1000sq ft with standard ceiling height)
 
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SupraSPL

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Had to mess around with the CXA3590s. These drivers both work well. This $3 cheapo drives it at 250mA 88% efficient and the other is adjustable from 100mA to 650mA and is 93-94% efficient. I got that driver years ago from KNNA and it still works great.
DSC07361a.jpg
 
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CaliWorthington

CaliWorthington

Well-Known Member
Chronikool said:
@SupraSPL you are the spade connector master... :D
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The spade connectors do make setup a breeze, and are somehow more satisfying than merely plugging in an HID, or typical LED for that matter. They have that low voltage vibe.

Also for the record, if you need to clean up some smudges or whatever on these aluminum heatsinks, the preferred method is Q-Tips and 91% Iso Alcohol in one hand, and paper towels in the other. Wet swab, gently scrub, wipe, repeat. I use several Q-tips before the first wipe. This sounds like a Charmin commercial. :lol:
 
hyroot

hyroot

Well-Known Member
you can polish the heat sink once Ina while That's pretty tedious though. Or powder coat the heat sink. That's pricey .
 
Rrog

Rrog

Well-Known Member
Personally, I'm not thinking the surface reflectivity amounts to beans. It's poorly reflective when oxidized, which will start as soon as you're done polishing.

I'm intrigued by the anodizing, as that increases the surface area for better cooling (thanks Chronik), and also provides an oxide-free surface finish. I'm personally not into aluminum oxide.
 
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