GOLDBERG71
Well-Known Member
This guy already added the lime transplant the plants and gone to bed by now.
At any given point of time (after watering), yes. Peat will cause ph to be lower as will an accumulation of nutrient salts. However, comparing one point in time to another, the later one will be higher.I don't want to argue. You agree peat moss drops ph as it ages. You agree that aging nutes lowers the ph. This isn't multiplication where 2 negatives becomes a positive. If they both go down individually they will go down faster together.
Just to clarify, I was referring to the time variable you used: "Since the ph drops as the plant dries."I just think it's amazing that you believe this. The peat moss will only break down faster the older it gets. As the plant in that soil ages ....
I use perlite too.The reason I use perlite is because that also is PH neutral. So that can't be the cause for the phenomenon.
Is this what you are referring to:I still disagree with that logic. But I do believe you said at anytime
I agreed with you that peat causes acidity as do nutrients. But, that's a relatively long-term process. What I referred to (as you did) was between waterings, "as the plant dries."At any given point of time (after watering), yes. Peat will cause ph to be lower as will an accumulation of nutrient salts. However, comparing one point in time to another, the later one will be higher.
For the record, I use fine/flour-consistency calcitic and dolomitic lime, about a 50/50 mix. I use 2 Tbsp/gal. I don't agree with using pellets. I don't believe the lifespan of MJ is long enough for the pellets to have an effect.If not your not using dom. lime your using pellets and probably more than we were talking about.
I've got a funny feeling the way you feed at a higher ph (for the wrong reason, that the medium acidifies as it dries between waterings) probably prevented you from encountering the fact that the pelletized lime isn't doing much for you.I forgot about the lime losing its effectiveness over that 3 month timeframe as well.
Your OBVIOUSLY not reading thoroughly or your bulb isn't bright. I DONT USE PELLETS. I'm signing off this thread for good now. Rule of thumb do what works for you and your situation. I'm not just talking about in between waterings you are. I'm talking about from the time I put my cuttings into a 5 or 7 gallon pot. I go from cutting straight to the finishing pot so I don't get any transplant stress or delays. I don't want to have wait for my plants to adjust for a 2 week period or so. So it will be in that pot and for at least 3 months. If I'm running some of my hazes. They will be flowering alone for 3 plus months.I've got a funny feeling the way you feed at a higher ph (for the wrong reason, that the medium acidifies as it dries between waterings) probably prevented you from encountering the fact that the pelletized lime isn't doing much for you.
What I mean is, that higher-ph feeding holds your medium higher -- instead of the lime. Not a bad thing to do. It's just that I think you fell into it with an assumption about what you're soil does between watering, and then never had as much reason to hit a critical ph problem resulting from slow-acting pelletized lime.
Just a theory.
Hey Azz2000..I know its an old thread but your comments have mattered to someone out here..and signed up just to reply to you. Your details were exactly what I needed and very detailed.. And learned from the miscommunications of buddy.. So thank you . I have health issues so sometimes i give a little more water to cover an extra day id i think it will be too dry (not overwatering either.) I reused my pro mix hp after washing it out and using gaia green 444 in veg for my first group of clones. Im cooking the rest for their transplants with a big variety of rock dusts etc..followed a diverse recipe. My bf was paranoid of calmag deficiency so added into his tea but i decided to wait and watch. One of my clones that has been in pro mix plus topdressed about 2 weeks ago and rust spots occurred so i thought maybe my promix phs are off.. I aim for 6.2. I have not added lime but have dolomite lime and its been added (about 1/4 cup in 100 liters/25 ish gals and brewing nearly 2 months so hoping to use soon. The plant with rust spots (room temp is cooler around 21 day/17.5C night, rh sucks between 30-38% and i cant refill my tank as my stairs kill me.. its dry as hell in canada right now.. Good airflow and doubt its rust mold. No other plants out of 12 have it. 2 leafs have it on the same aide of a top. It does have some weird new growth and internodal spacing is stubbier than The other same plant cut..not that i expect it to be identical.. Im worried my watering pH is t good for the lack of lime now. I will put Mg in my next tea and with your advice keep my waterings on the higher pH side consistently. Do you think i should topdress dolomite lime? Im so sketchy to use it.. If i dont hear, its old i. Not holding my breath i will wait to see what the Epsom salt does first. New growth was a bit light but improved with topdress 444 and its still growing. I tipped it once and thought maybe it was stressed as growth slowed..the. The green new growth..then rust spots within 3 weeks. I've seen one rusty leaf before on synth nutes but it resolved..I think you have that backwards. Doesn't PH rise as the soil dries. That's what I observe with Pro-Mix HP using a $50 soil ph probe.
I'd strongly recommend the OP monitor their runoff as well as invest in a Control Wizard Accurate 8 soil probe.