@budbro18 Hey man thanks for the reply. I have two 100w coils for the Dabvenue which both run nice at ~710F on the Dabvenue. The same coils running on the new box require a setting of at least 200F higher (not quite 300, 910F+) to feel like similar heat. I am running the PID settings Auber gave for 100w heater.
DIY E-Nail
- Thread starter budbro18
- Start date
budbro18
Well-Known Member
Thats pretty common because different enails have different pid parameters set based on how the maker liked the speed/recovery of their coils to heat up. Some people turn down the gain so their nail heats up slower and supposedly increases coil life by not throwin it up to 700 in under a minute then overshooting by a little.
Also, for some reason i never knew, enail makers would use k type thermocouples (most common in coils) but set the pid controller to read it as a J type thermocouple which maybe helped it heat up slower and more controlled because of the type of metal it thinks it is or somethin haha. Im not sure still. But thats why when people would see some of the first enails and flip out because people were dabbing at 1200-1500 degrees (on the screen) but it was actually around 400-600 (give or take)
All my coils have been 250w 16mm coils with k type thermocouples. Thats what the auber pid i have is set to stock so dont even have to change that.
Generally the thermocouples are off. Some more than others. The temp on the screen really doesnt have too much to do with the actual temp youre dabbing at. Its in the ballpark but just the placement of the thermocouple and whether you have it up or down and whether youre dabbing off quartz or ceramic or titanium makes a huge difference.
Im pretty sure if i put my coil thats tuned to my quartz nail on a titanium nail and turned it on it would overshoot by a ton at first (longer if i turned off autotune) because its used to throwing that heat into quartz which throws it off quickly and the titanium would hold that heat better and build it better to the point that i could probably turn it down to 600 (725 on quartz)
Ive been wanting to get a thermocouple to actually put into the nail and on the dish surface to see the real temp. Ive used my IR temp gun and it gives a bunch of different numbers from 350-675 (when set to 700-725) so im assuming the inner dish is about 400-500 ish and the outter wall is probably 500-600. but when i get a thermocouple and my friend gets his titanium enail nail ill do some more testing and let you guys know. Its also hard because the nails so small the IR temp gun is getting some small not heated areas that are probably messing with its average temp.
In the end just adjust it to where you like temp and keep it set to that. Theyre all slightly different and more or less accurate than each other. The number on the screen is most likely not the real temp of where youre placing your dab.
Fuck all the "low temps only way to go" and "gotta waste it to taste it" bullshit. I set mine to where i find i get a nice smooth hit in my amount of breath, good flavor, finish 90% of the hit, perfect. I find it hard on a quartz enail to really finish a dab down to the last wisp of vapor even when i turn it up higher theres always a little that gets missed from the larger temp drop of quartz. I usually turn it up to about 775-800 (600-675 on ir so probably like 500-600 in the dish) for bigger dabs because the quartz drops temp quick and unless youve got mega lungs its hard to take huge ones on quartz without turnin the temp up. But still good flavor and everything.
Yes, differences in accuracy is what I figured, so I will be satisfied with knowing my new unit takes a higher number.
I agree 100% on the low-temp thing. With the temp too low it gets harsh to me, and with it too high it gets different harsh, too hot. There's a sweet spot that is flavorful and smooth. I've found 10 degrees on the display to be a noticeable change. Amazing when I previously used a torch with little control over final temperature!
sourorbetter
Member
I received the new ssr from Auber today. I installed it and it's working perfectly! It was initially set to 440 and it took a few minutes to get to that temp, unlike before where it would fly past that temp in 30 seconds. It felt so surreal I had to call Auber and make sure I was good! I found it stays on temp and only fluctuates by 1-3 degrees max when dabbing. I'm dabbing off a 20mm "Borobook" quartz banger.
kwon
Active Member
I need a deal on a coil, 20mm or flat 100w maybe higher wattage. with xlr5 connection. Ebay is giving me mixed feelings. Can someone help me out. I also am thinking of getting the omron e5cc, but I get the QX version not the RX version correct? Also could someone tell me what connections i make from the omron pid according to the screw #. Thanks!
budbro18
Well-Known Member
the only way to really get a deal on coils is to buy em in bulk from china or do a group buy of some sort. If not youll pay at least 40 for one usually around 50. Ebays fine and thats all theyre doing is buying them in bulk form china for cheaper and selling them to you for a mark up.
the omrons are a little pricey but if you want that type of screen then go for it. As for the pin out of the pid it should either be written on it or available on the website/instructions.
the omrons are a little pricey but if you want that type of screen then go for it. As for the pin out of the pid it should either be written on it or available on the website/instructions.
kwon
Active Member
I’m stuck on which coil/nail set up to get. I have a cheap quartz nail whose bowl is 3/4" which is about 19mm. Would I get a 20mm coil for that or would it fit loose? The nail was only $20 so I’m open to suggestions. I know this threads been up for almost a year so there’s got to be a better idea of what to get in that regard. I read the 100w coils are the most efficient and anything more is just wasting electricity right? Thanks a lot for this thread budbro18, I checked it out during the summer and am now building my first. I went with the QX version of the Omron e5cc, expensive yes but its different. I’m building my enail into my rig case so its portable. So far I have ordered the pid, ssr, outlet plug, outlet for coil, power switch, and wire. need a coil and nail now. Thanks guys.
Can some one post a wire diagram? I have everything wired correct I think, so the problem is I turn it on and the pid turns on but reads EEEE and this is a brand new pid also a brand new ssr however my ssr light does not turn on. I'm using a Auber pid and a Auber ssr, how ever I'm using a basic rocker switch should I be using one with a fuse in it?
kwon
Active Member
Thanks man but that's the one I've been using! Should I be using a rocker switch that has a fuse built in I'm just using a basic rocker switch with out a fuse! The only thing I can think of is the coil isnt matching up I'm using a friends coil until mine comes in. Would the ssr light turn on if the coil isn't connected? Even with my friends coil I still don't get the ssr light to turn on but the pid turns on and reads EEEE? Any suggestions or help would be great thanks!
kwon
Active Member
Try this, I think you're good just gotta set up stuff. @Daniel710
At this point, cover the back of the PID controller in electrical tape and plug it in. The PID should read EEE.E at the top.
To get it to read the correct temperature, hit SET and enter “0089”. Then press SET when “Inty” is blinking and scroll up or down to “µ” (this is secretly a “k”, for the K-type thermocouple). Then press SET. Press up so “outy” is blinking and press SET, then change the number to 1 (this sets the PID output to the built-in relay). Press SET again and scroll to “End.” Press SET to exit.
The PID controller should now display the temperature on top, and may start to click. Unplug the controller, and we move on!
These settings are for something else but should get u in the right direction.
At this point, cover the back of the PID controller in electrical tape and plug it in. The PID should read EEE.E at the top.
To get it to read the correct temperature, hit SET and enter “0089”. Then press SET when “Inty” is blinking and scroll up or down to “µ” (this is secretly a “k”, for the K-type thermocouple). Then press SET. Press up so “outy” is blinking and press SET, then change the number to 1 (this sets the PID output to the built-in relay). Press SET again and scroll to “End.” Press SET to exit.
The PID controller should now display the temperature on top, and may start to click. Unplug the controller, and we move on!
These settings are for something else but should get u in the right direction.
kwon
Active Member
You could also probably cut out the switch part and wire it directly to the plug outlet, posi neg and ground. That should start the device when you plug the cord in. try this after if the stuff above doesnt solve your issue. and you should set the pid to autotune so it handles everything after you set the desired temperature. Ive never done this before, just what I think you should do. If someone with more experience can chime in thatd be great. Thanks and hopefully your issue is resolved!
Thanks man for the help I did what you said but I'm still getting the same result however I don't have a coil so that might be a factor still waiting on mine to come in. Also you said "inty" and"outy" is blinking however it's not blinking on mine and ssr is still not on. Could this all be because of not having a coil and just testing with a friends coil? I don't have his right now either.
kwon
Active Member
I think if its not plugged in, then the device wont work properly since it cant sense the probe thats part of the coil. Thats just my guess. What are the specs on your coil? @Daniel710 im in the market for one as well. What did you spend?
I'm buying a Gimido type k spent around 80 bucks for that. The coil was the most expensive part out of the whole build. Thanks for the help I'm just going to wait till my coil comes in to do any more testing!
sourorbetter
Member
what PID settings are you guys using?
budbro18
Well-Known Member
Yea this sounds really complicated... whats the cost savings to DIY vs. buying one? I must acquire this technology... If its worth the savings, I'll dive in, if its not that huge a difference..... who sells the best for the best value?
The cost is about $75-$150 depending on how hard you want to go and how many supplies you need. If are starting from the ground up with basically no tools, itll be closer to $150. If youve already got a soldering iron and some wire and an old project case you can bust one out for closer to $75. If you dont mind waiting for china to send you parts you can really make em for cheap. But if you want the parts in a timely manner than youll probably pay a few bucks extra for shipping.
As far as assembly goes its pretty simple. People, and even myself, get worked up when messing with things like this because it weird hooking shit straight into the 120v hot if youre not an everyday electrical tinkerer. Even if youre used to RC shit its completely different and a lot more scary when working with HOTs comin right out the wall VS the hots of a battery, even though the batteries could possibly explode if connected wrong.
Gettin off track
Basically therye easy to assemble. If you get the auber parts (or the same ones just not name brand) youll be goin word for word by this tutorial. The PIDs autotune and after a while heat up perfectly. If you choose to go with slightly cheaper parts or just parts from different manufacturers then there can be some confusion as far as pinouts and PID
settings/menus are concerned.
Its pretty easy. People seem to overthink it too much. The switch wiring gets people confused a lot. But if you take every part one step at a time its fairly simple.
Lowest price of units are $200 with an average of about $300. Some are $400-$500 but will usually have a couple year warranty.
I like makin em myself because if any part breaks i can just replace it for pennies. And even if 1 part broke a year itd be pennies every year to keep up with maintenance. Especially when you consider how much butane/propane youd be buying to equal that amount of nail heating. Even if the most expensive part broke once a year itd be $35-$50 bucks a year to replace. n