GB 2015
- Thread starter Garden Boss
- Start date
angryblackman
Well-Known Member
Ugh I don't know man. I would like to help you set up this season if you need it and since I probably won't be making an outdoor run this summer.
Garden Boss
Well-Known Member
Greenhouse needs a little TLC after last weeks winds. The cheap plastic I used for the North and South wall got a little ripped up.
The CP's are still happy tho, I bought soil yesterday so I can upgrade them today.
Here's a pic from last night. We have a warm and sunny week ahead.
On my indoor, yesterday I wrapped the majority of my veg room in 7/16 osb, I still have to buy another half dozen sheets to finish up.
Flower room (pic) is on day 2.
I got a good to do list for the day, so I better get going...
The CP's are still happy tho, I bought soil yesterday so I can upgrade them today.
Here's a pic from last night. We have a warm and sunny week ahead.
On my indoor, yesterday I wrapped the majority of my veg room in 7/16 osb, I still have to buy another half dozen sheets to finish up.
Flower room (pic) is on day 2.
I got a good to do list for the day, so I better get going...
angryblackman
Well-Known Member
Damn GB! I am jealous! 
mikeykrinshaw12
Well-Known Member
same Cherry Pies as was going round the Bq? those look great. fantastic job. how long is that stretch in the flowering room (length and width of actual rows of plants)? Im starting to put some thought into how I am going to set an area up and I see 4 hoods there in your pics, nice even spread. I have a variety of options and and just trying to narrow down my light placement a bit. thanks for any input.
mikeykrinshaw12
Well-Known Member
when running lights with denser light output in a row like that or in close proximity to each other, the light spread will overlap from one light area to the other, allowing a grower to keep the lights farther away, light a larger area per light, and still maintaining the same amount of light in the growth area as if you had a single lamp over the growth area enclosed with light refractive material and closer to the canopy, and presumably cooler temps in the growth area (considering the area is well ventilated). The type of hoods and how they are used makes a difference too.... that was why I was curious what length and width the actual grow area occupies for those 4 in a row, as I think my area might have similar dimensions.
Garden Boss
Well-Known Member
The Flower room is 7x18.5', the plant area is about 5x18. Right now I have 3 rows of 13 for 39 plants, just because that's how many clones I had.
My Veg room is 7x20. I would have made each room 8x20 if I had the right space, but such is life...
Next run I plan on SOG 5 rows of 18 plants.
Garden Boss
Well-Known Member
I removed glass bottoms and ducting, cool your room not your lights
...I have them 30 inches from plant tops to the bulb.
Garden Boss
Well-Known Member
Hey gb I am starting my room soon. Is It best to use osb for the outside walls then insulate and another sheet of osb Painted white? Or use drywall for the interior ? If using drywall should it be unfinished or have mud on it? i need the best method for insulation purposes.riw I'm just using an 8 inch inline exhaust to draw warm air out and cool shop air in.
in the summer i will hookup my window mount ac and insulate-drywall as needed.
i have a pair of 14 inch max fans, but i may just use those for a diy jetpack
Garden Boss
Well-Known Member
I would use osb on the exterior and dry wall on the interior with insulation inbetween. The drywall should be mudded, nothing professional, just fill cracks and sand flat. After taking notes of where my studs and truss' are, then I would wrap the entire room in Panda film
[Quote Garden Boss, post: 11309583, member: 653197"]I would use osb on the exterior and dry wall on the interior with insulation inbetween. The drywall should be mudded, nothing professional, just fill cracks and sand flat. After taking notes of where my studs and truss' are, then I would wrap the entire room in Panda film [/QUOTE]
I really dislike panda fimn. I was going to mud and paint a few coats of lat white. if i leqve the top un drywalled would that be okay? I am needing to cut holes for ducting for exhaust and intake.
[/QUOTE]I really dislike panda fimn. I was going to mud and paint a few coats of lat white. if i leqve the top un drywalled would that be okay? I am needing to cut holes for ducting for exhaust and intake.
Garden Boss
Well-Known Member
Why do you not like panda?
Well If you want to go with paint, I would apply a nice thick coat of Kilz Primer first, then your flat white.
You should insulate and drywall the roof, but its not completely necessary. Solid pipe ducting is useful for going through walls and roofs.
I hate pandas!!! Hah jk. I dont like panda film cause its expensive and its super hard to get it up without wrinkles. I spray my room with a fogger so its easier for me to wipe down the walls and just throw up another thing of paint if needed
Why do you not like panda?
Well If you want to go with paint, I would apply a nice thick coat of Kilz Primer first, then your flat white.
You should insulate and drywall the roof, but its not completely necessary. Solid pipe ducting is useful for going through walls and roofs.
. Also flat white paint is just slightly less reflective than panda film. Like a couple %.Btw thanks for taking the time to give mr advise!
doublejj
Well-Known Member
Also you can have them add mold inhibitor to the white paint...I hate pandas!!! Hah jk. I dont like panda film cause its expensive and its super hard to get it up without wrinkles. I spray my room with a fogger so its easier for me to wipe down the walls and just throw up another thing of paint if needed
Btw thanks for taking the time to give mr advise!
I believe that Is what the kilz primer would be for?
doublejj
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I missed that part. lol I grow in a damp basement, that stuff really helps keep mold down