My Secret Jardin DR300W setup and review

Hotwired

Well-Known Member
This is the 5' x 10' x 6.7' tent made by Secret Jardin. I also have the DR120 which I will setup and review next week.

I ordered the tents thru my local hydro shop and got them within a week. Total cost was $924 ($635 for the DR300W and $235 for the DR120) for both tents with taxes and delivery.

First let me tell you this, if you have a friend you can trust then let him/her help you with the DR300W. You can do it yourself, I did, but another person will definitely be helpful.

DAY 1

The tents come in their own carry cases but the DR300W is very clumsy to carry by the handles because most of the weight is on one side. (The DR120 is very easy and comfortable to carry in its case)

Once you open up the case and pull all the stuff out look for a piece of paper with the "instructions" on it. These "instructions" are just pictures of what they want you to do.

Don't get upset and throw a tantram but if you are stoned....forget about it lol. You really got to figure it out by yourself once you unfold the HUGE ASS skin. There are zippers everywhere and you might get a bit confused. I was confused as hell at first but I took a few puffs before working :blsmoke:

Next.......I took the parts out and put them in order. They come with "lettered" poles. A, B, C, D, E, F and I, and also all the corner and middle plastic holders for the poles.

I put these together very easily. The hard part was getting this huge skin the cover the frame. Like I said earlier, you really could use some help with this part. So next I released the zippers and pulled them back as far as they would go. I tried to follow the "instructions" but after looking at the pics and then looking down at what was on the floor in front of me, I just laughed and said fuck it.

Basically you need to start from the back of the frame and work the skin over the top. Make sure the 2 bottom window flaps are in the back when you start. This will save from later problems. Once you have the top on snugly you then work the bottom of the skin UNDER the frame and make that nice and snug.

You will have a huge ass piece of the skin left over and it all seems like a million zippers. Be very careful with this part and make sure you have plenty of room to manuever the skin around and pull it all to the front. If you pull too hard you take a chance of ripping a seam.

Once you fit it into place you can start zipping up the zippers. If you do it right everything should be all SQUARE AND SNUG.

Now you can look up and see what wonders you have built. If you did it all right it should look kick ass.

They also give you a reflective flooring piece that fits snugly on the bottom and has small velcro straps that fit around the poles to keep it in place. I then closed up shop. I had enough for the day.

DAY 2

Finished up with a few things. Took a good look at all the socks and windows from the inside of the tent with a few lights on outside and the zippers all closed.

You can see a lot of the pinholes from inside a dark tent. My eyes were first drawn to the 2 large 8" socks on either side of the tent. The sewing around these particular socks was done VERY POORLY.

I could see light coming in thru the stitches almost fully around one sock and half way around the other. Not sure how to fix this but maybe use black duct tape around the outside.

There were 2 half inch "openings" on the stitching where the sides hug the poles. Could have been me when stretching the skin on tightly but it seemed random. I closed these up with black duct tape.

Thes rest were a few small holes and about 10 or so pin holes here and there. Overall not a bad job, but I'm not extremely happy either.

Off the bat with the work done so far I will now give everything about the DR300W a scoring table. This will be a preliminary score based on what I've done so far,

Side and Bottom Poles - 8 of 10. I give this score because I feel the poles could be a bit stronger. They use 2 poles to make one length of connection between the plastic holders. Overall not bad but could be better.

Top Poles - 5 of 10. I feel these poles are subpar for holding the estimated weight they claim it holds. The poles bend quite a bit in the middle and they seem to be made more cheaply than the other poles. Granted they are still strong, but they can't hold as much as they say they can.

Plastic Holders (12) - 9 of 10. The holders do their job quite well....so far.

Zippers - 8 of 10. Right now the zippers are holding up fine. They get caught from time to time but they hide the light very vell and I have seen no light leaks thus far.

Bottom Window Slots (2 in the back and 2 on the sides) - 7 of 10. Good for air intake with nice screens to keep out pests. Problem is they let light in when they are open. Use at your own discretion.

Top Side Socks (2) - 2 of 10. Poorly done. Almost all the stitches around the socks are letting light thru. Don't know how to fix this problem,

Bottom Side Socks (2) - 8 of 10. I have not noticed any leaks here. I will take a closer look tho.

Rooftop Socks (2) - 5 of 10. These have the same problems as the side socks but not as badly done. Not sure how to fix this either.

Electrical Sock Outlets (3, all in the rear) - 8 of 10. So far no light leaks around the stitches. Will investigate further.

Seams - 8 of 10. Not bad overall. The stitching has random places where it has broke but I can't tell if this was from delivery, installation, or it was made that way. Either way it was still very well done.

Skin - 6 of 10. Pinholes here and there. A few small holes that seem random. Very thin skin overall but has its good points such as reflection of light and absorbtion of heat. This will be reviewed again many times over its use.

Overall score - 6 of 10. I didn't buy something that I deem "expensive" just to tape it up in places where it was poorly made. If the price for the DR300W was about $435 ($200 cheaper than I paid) then I wouldn't be so hard on the overall score.

Remember these scores are for right now. They will definitely change over time as I get real usage out of them. I will update this thread over the next days and weeks with info and maybe some pics if I can get my camera fixed.

Any questions just ask and I'll do my best to answer them :blsmoke:
 

Hotwired

Well-Known Member
Well since no one is interested I'll stop posting about the tent.

But it's great for chopping people up in!! :hump::blsmoke:
 

NewGrowth

Well-Known Member
Don't stop bro you wrote a really good review of this tent so far I want to see how it does in actual growing conditions.
 

Hotwired

Well-Known Member
Don't stop bro you wrote a really good review of this tent so far I want to see how it does in actual growing conditions.
OK, but I have to clean it up after pulling a "Dexter" in there :blsmoke:

i emjoyed the thread thoroughly please keep on update
Will do :mrgreen:

I will be doing test runs for the next 2 or 3 days checking for noise and heat problems. Once I turn on my 2 x 1000 watt lights I can check for more holes/tears from the outside. I'm using a can filter 33 with the lights and fan all hooked up together

I'm not sure where I will put the Vortex fan yet. It fits great right in the middle of the room between the 2 lights. The pole is handling the weight well, but it seems to be at it's peak of about 25 - 30 pounds. I really wouldn't want to do much more weight there.

I may also put it on the rooftop corner and move some top poles around to handle the weight. This way it can pull thru the filter and 2 lights instead of pulling thru the filter and 1 light and blowing into the other. It really depends on the noise because I want to keep it relatively quiet during the night.

I already have an idea to fix the noise at night problem by using a Whisperline 4" or 6" fan connected to a can filter 2600 and exhausting it straight out into my room. There will be no need for a high powered fan once the lights are off. 100 or so cfm will clean the full room in 3 minutes. That's plenty of fresh air to have during lights off.

Both fans will run off different timers and that problem will take care of itself. So far I like the tent. I love the fact that I don't need to take my room apart or hang shit all over the walls like my last 3 grows. No more covering windows and putting shit up around doors. My house stays squeaky clean and I only had to put 1 exhaust hole into the attic. You can't even see the duct going up into the hole because the tent mostly blocks it.

The tent is really like its own environment. You don't have to mess with your house at all and THAT is where this = money well spent.

I will hook up the electric tomorrow and give a detailed review of my test runs. Once I'm happy with noise/heat issues I will germ my 21 afghani kush fems and get started :blsmoke:
 

BCtrippin

Well-Known Member
Great thread, Im thinking of ordering a pair of their 7'11" x 7'11" for flowering rooms.

Let us know how it handles the heat, and the weight of all the gear

:joint:
 
So I'm also growning some weed you know just some good ole' Ryno Weed I know not the best but not the worst. And I had just learned that cops now have special cameras that can see the electricty or the type of heat that watt lamps can emit. And my question is there any way to repel or not get noticed when they pass the camera by. I really need help.
 

BCtrippin

Well-Known Member
Hey there Nikka welcome to the forums, I think you meant to post a new thread not a reply in someone else's thread, but Anyways

I think what your asking is how to avoid Thermal cameras. Heat is the problem for IR cameras, this can be solved with proper ventilation, and A/C if needed, How you vent and where you vent is VERY important. If you vent to your attic you it will get very hot and be noticeably hotter then surrounding houses, if you run a big duct pumping hot air out a window then they will see the hot air pumping out the house all day.

Best option is to build a box over the window put a small a/c in the box if you have to and problem solved.

The cameras can see heat, but they are not X-Ray cameras, if there is a pocket of cold air in your house between your grow room and the roof then the camera will not be able to see past that.

Also there are certain products on the market that Thermal cameras cant see through, Im sure a quick google search and you could find something.

The most important thing with Thermal cameras is that you dont want your whole house, and especially attic to be noticeably hotter then the surrounding houses.

Also I wouldnt be too worried unless you are running over 12000w of lights.

Hope that helps, happy growing
 

Hotwired

Well-Known Member
Ok folks just got done with a few more items. I'm telling you man this is hard work for an out of shape fatty :mrgreen:

Today I hung the lights and positioned the 8" Vortex fan. I tried the fan in the middle pulling thru the can filter 33 and 1 light and blowing thru the other light. The poles held all the weight very well but that was because I positioned the poles to carry the loads of the lights and fan very carefully.

Once everything was up I let the fan rip on its highest speed. Everything was working fine but I felt a lot of air coming out thru the gaskets of the light that the fan was blowing thru. This was no good because of air leaks.

So I took the fan out and positioned a few poles under the rooftop sock. I then placed the fan on top of the rooftop sock and attached my duct accordingly. I redid the duct between the 2 lights and did a test run again at highest speed.

This seemed to do the trick. The weight of the fan was being held very nicely by the 2 poles and the mainframe poles underneath it. There was no more air leak because the fan was pulling thru both lights and filter now. I even attached a speed controller to the fan and set it at 50%. You might think that 50% wasn't enough but believe me this 720 cfm fan was still pulling like crazy.

I just need to attach it to the duct leading into the attic and I'm set. So basically I have a can filter 33 sitting on a speaker stand 2 feet up, ducted to my first light and then another small 20" piece of duct to the second light. This is then attached to another 3' piece of duct which goes out the rooftop sock and connects to the fan sitting on top of the tent. Then it's only another 2' and it's in the attic. All set with that crap :mrgreen:

Now I need to hook up the electric. I have a special 6 outlet 240 volt case that was specifically made for ballasts. 4 of the outlets are for ballasts and 2 of the outlets are for fans. This hooks up to a 30 amp wall outlet and uses a 20 amp wall outlet for the timer.

Once I get the electric done I will turn on the lights and start my noise and heat test runs. I should have this done very soon.

So far what I like the best is that my house is still in one piece. I can take all this shit apart and the only thing you would see is the small hole in my ceiling. Everything else is contained in the tent and in the attic.

I will update more tomorrow :blsmoke:
 

KryptoBud

Well-Known Member
thanx for the info.I'm looking into buying something similiar as soon as I can find one at least 4x4 and no taller than 6ft. it has to fit in my basement.I am looking forward 2 c how your tent turns out once you have everything up in runnin.Good luck!
 

monkeyphunk

Active Member
actually im glad you reviewed this product i was just lookin at it online but now that you say there are all these pin holes i dont dsee the point i thought it would be an answer to grow light cycles and aviod hermaphoditing them
Well since no one is interested I'll stop posting about the tent.

But it's great for chopping people up in!! :hump::blsmoke:
 

BCtrippin

Well-Known Member
Hey You mentioned ducting into the attic. This can be a bad idea, the last thing in the world you would want is an attic that is noticeably hotter then all the surrounding houses.

Just a thought, something you might want to consider.
 

NewGrowth

Well-Known Member
Hey You mentioned ducting into the attic. This can be a bad idea, the last thing in the world you would want is an attic that is noticeably hotter then all the surrounding houses.

Just a thought, something you might want to consider.
Thermal imaging is not used as much here in the US and they only use it to identify major grow-ops. :peace:
 

BCtrippin

Well-Known Member
Thermal imaging is not used as much here in the US and they only use it to identify major grow-ops. :peace:
Fair enough, but it would still be bad having heat pumped into the attic. Not as much doesnt mean never. It would only take one flyby to notice the difference in heat compared to all the neighbors. They may be for larger grow ops, that would just mean that they would send more people and raid your house just to find a few plants.
 

Hotwired

Well-Known Member
Foget the heat in the attic guys. It's too hot here all year round. They can't tell the difference.
 

upabove

Well-Known Member
I just picked up the dr120 and its great. My DIY tent just wasnt doing the job. Thanks for your reviews! :clap:
 

stoverdro

Well-Known Member
One question.what were the overall dimensions again specifically width by depth.
very curious as im looking for some growing tents but i need a large one as in maybe 6 ft by 6 ft. I know htg supply makes one but i heard they lack on there quality. I know oyu said like 5 ft by 10 ft and some other but can you label it height and width and stuff.sorry if i totally missed it man.thanks for the review by the way bro!
 
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