CXA3590 Build Plan

Doer

Doer

Well-Known Member
Now I can get real cost per wattPar.

$853 (COBs CXB3590 x 16)
$126 (2x2" Alum. sq tube x 2 @ 4 feet)
$221 (MeanWell HGL Drivers x 4)
$ 25 (plastic funnels for conical reflectors x 16)
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$1225 (delivered) - reuse 1/2 hp sump pump, 100 gal water tank

For 47% efficiency on 800 wall watts = 376 PAR Watts = $3.25/wP (delivered)



http://www.barproducts.com/white-plastic-funnels

White Funnel - 5 1/4" Dia., 16 Ounce
 
alesh

alesh

Well-Known Member
I highly doubt you reach more than 70% efficiency with these plastic funnels. I'd like to see it's radiation pattern, too.
 
Doer

Doer

Well-Known Member
alesh said:
I highly doubt you reach more than 70% efficiency with these plastic funnels. I'd like to see it's radiation pattern, too.
Click to expand...
Wrong thread. I am putting down a conical pattern to keep the light on the plants is all.
 
Doer

Doer

Well-Known Member
OK

So if I used no reflectors I get a better cost per wP?

Yes

But if I don't waste light that is outside the reflector cone I get more watts on the plant?

So there is the tradeoff

What inefficiency do you calculate for a 115 degree FOV?
 
Doer

Doer

Well-Known Member
Just playing around with it, see what fits, etc. I see that 1.5 inch tape is 38.1mm. It is almost perfect for TIM patch and it make layout much easier. 1/2 the sides are already cut straight. I could mark and center straight across cuts, very easily. Pull the plugs out of the stencil and then run two tapes down the sides, aligned with the existing stencil tape.

Still mocking up the process. I haven't sanded it flat yet, but it needs it.

IMG_1947.JPG
 
alesh

alesh

Well-Known Member
Doer said:
OK

So if I used no reflectors I get a better cost per wP?

Yes

But if I don't waste light that is outside the reflector cone I get more watts on the plant?

So there is the tradeoff

What inefficiency do you calculate for a 115 degree FOV?
Click to expand...
Always a tradeoff.
I'd say that it depends mostly how your room is setup. Those funnels may help a lot in some cases.
 
Doer

Doer

Well-Known Member
Just doing some mock ups last night. This is an endcap idea with 5/8" hose fitting.
I used a step drill, after a pilot hole and a 1/4" drill out.

I am also considering just brazing on a 3/4" copper male threaded a better flow path.
For a wet fixture it is important to put the input and out take toward the top for fail safe.
It can't siphon all the water out, so it will fail with a full tube.

I had an early failure in prototype of my DIY flow switch on 1000w HPS. When I found it, the water that was left in the light was busy boiling off, at a fine rate. I was within a 1/2 hour of losing the entire rig. I use a $40 Dwyers Instruments flow switch now. Lesson learned.

IMG_1954.JPG
 
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Doer

Doer

Well-Known Member
Just using a palm sander at 80 grit. Goes quickly enough, but amazing that it only looked flat but needed real work to be flat.

IMG_1956.JPG
 
heckler73

heckler73

Well-Known Member
Nice grain on your finish. ;)
What flow rate are you going to pass through those tubes? Straight water ?
A 100 Gal. res will definitely mitigate the energy dissipation issue.
 
Doer

Doer

Well-Known Member
Flow rate is not really a problem. I had 1/2 inch water lines before and it was fine. But, I will build this in 3/4" I figure at least 2000 gallon an hour. I treat it like spa. I use a non-chlorine sanitizer called Baqua. (Leslie's Pool Supply)

It also occurs to me that I could run thru a radiator on the way back to the water tank.
...get all tricky, and have the fan hooked to the thermostat. It only goes active when needed.

Next occurs I can turn the pump on and off with a timer like the light. Save 1/2 the watts. With a glass tube water light, you have to keep it running or they need too much cleaning from the sediments. Big hassle to take those apart and get them to seal again.
 
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heckler73

heckler73

Well-Known Member
Doer said:
Flow rate is not really a problem. I had 1/2 inch water lines before and it was fine. But, I will build this in 3/4" I figure at least 2000 gallon an hour. I treat it like spa. I use a non-chlorine sanitizer called Baqua. (Leslie's Pool Supply)

It also occurs to me that I could run thru a radiator on the way back to the water tank.
...get all tricky, and have the fan hooked to the thermostat. It only goes active when needed.

Next occurs I can turn the pump on and off with a timer like the light. Save 1/2 the watts. With a glass tube water light, you have to keep it running or they need too much cleaning from the sediments. Big hassle to take those apart and get them to seal again.
Click to expand...

The rad would probably be overkill. :mrgreen:
As it is you have 1.5x1.5" ID, right? So 108 in^3...
Let's see... 2.54 cm/in...1769 cm^3 * 2 tubes = 3538 cm^3 total volume for both tubes.
2000 *3.785 L/gal = 7570 L/hr
7570 L/hr * 1000 cm^3/L / 3538 cm^3 = ~2140 "flushes" per hour.
I don't know, that seems a little high...you're essentially pushing a full length of water every ~0.6 secs through the tubes.My intuition tells me you can't get that high a flow rate without some issues. But that requires calculating the Reynold's number and I'm feeling lazy ATM :lol:
 
Doer

Doer

Well-Known Member
That is ideal flow, of course. You have to pay Reynonds and other parasites. :) And you need to push an 8 foot high pressure head, don't forget. The tank is outside on grade, up to the light plus margin.

But, still the idea is constant circulating and deep bottom pick up for the cool water, and a diffuse out flow across the top of the water column. Vioila, we have a thermal siphon.

I can get a 20F degree gradient.
 
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beodrone

beodrone

Active Member
In terms of a radiator check out Hydro Innovations Ice Box. Neat little device but with your DIY skills you could probably build one cheaper.
 
Doer

Doer

Well-Known Member
beodrone said:
In terms of a radiator check out Hydro Innovations Ice Box. Neat little device but with your DIY skills you could probably build one cheaper.
Click to expand...
I was just thinking about getting an old truck radiator from Pick and Pull. :)

I know about the Ice Box, but thanks. The choices are all according to size, cost, and tradeoffs. I think I am fine with 800w on 100 gallons. But if I put 1600w on 100 gals, I would need to go active.
 
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Doer

Doer

Well-Known Member
Jerry at Kingbrite gave me the DHL tracking number.

And I ordered IDEAL-50-2303CR-LED HOLDER from newark.com
holder.JPG
Drivers, I ordered first, won't be here until mid May.
 
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