CXA3590 Build Plan

Doer

Doer

Well-Known Member
And here are the same reflectors for $3.11. If you buy 60.

https://www.verical.com/pd/ledil-sensor-misc-F13402-ANGELINA-W-792332?wm_crID=23760402&wm_lpID=103728616&wm_ctID=250&wm_kwID=69073072&wm_mtID=2&wm_content=0&wm_g_crID=56409933801&wm_g_kw=f13402_angelina-w&wm_g_pcmt=&wm_g_cnt=0&wm_g_device=c&gclid=CjwKEAjwuoOpBRCSy6yQm66J1g8SJABrXW48oU31R0GAn92mkCDEpjs83a-EkBiERLElHrCJMF2gYRoCV-nw_wcB&wm_kw=f13402_angelina-w&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=f13402_angelina-w&utm_campaign=us - sku&wm_sd=1
 
Sxott

Sxott

Well-Known Member
What a mess trying to skip over all the fighting in this tread. Crazy

I was going to run a similar water cooled system myself ( But id tig weld it since its what I do for a living :) )

I eventually opted against it because if the cooling system failed, all that money would burn up. But I did find a good cooling method you might be interested in. A Hayden transmission cooler. They are about 35 - 40 bucks minus the fan. If you are going to make more of these big lights. I think sticking the transmission cooler /s inline with the carbon exhaust fan via a constructed box would be a great idea. Thats if you have an exhaust.

Before you switched to the water cooled set up from the cooltube, I was going to suggest high static pressure PC fans (like the sp120) dropped in slots along the tube. That way if one crapped out on ya, you would still have a few more pushing to keep your cobs from burning up and a new one could be dropped in easy..

I ordered my 10 cxb3070 on the 15th of last month from kingbrite. He keeps changing the ship date on me. Now its the 9th (3 more days) Going to order 8 cxb3590 when I see that he will really ship them too me.

Cant wait to see this thing in action. You going to be putting a par meter under it to get the footprint on record?
 
Doer

Doer

Well-Known Member
Well, if you ignore all but me, temporarily, it is still a rough read. Sorry about that. :)

Most of it was design thrashing and then troll pressure to DO SOMETHING.

But, I decided to go with water so I'm glad I can't be pressured to decided early.

I was designing ways to input air all along the tube as you were thinking. But, it seemed too complicated when I am set up to pump water. And I realize it would be loud to pull that kind of flow of air.

You likely missed it in the thread noise, but I can't have active cooling that does not fail safe.

That's the key and in the end it is easier to plumb for water than for air, for me.

I already have the Dwyers Instrument liquid flow switch and AC relay.

I have a lux meter on my iphone that is pretty good to compare to daylight. We will see. :)
 
heckler73

heckler73

Well-Known Member
@Doer,

Have you tested the mechanics, yet? That is, your pump system? Leaks, etc.?
I was just thinking about how you've prepped them already, and realized it wouldn't be wise to mount electronics before checking flows, etc.
In my case, I probably would have done that :lol:.
Then I'd kick myself for being too quick...
 
Doer

Doer

Well-Known Member
You know these guys are helping me. They wouldn't let me make a mistake.

And really it is so easy. I just need to get them ready and follow the instruction. What could possibly go wrong?

1 - put the COBs on the drivers with the thermal interface compound

DONE!!!

...these black wire looking things...are what? Oh! Do I have take them out of the package?
IMG_1976.JPG
 
Doer

Doer

Well-Known Member
How soon until I discover the mystery of the seal is more the question. Brazing is not working out. I am switching to an end cover that drives on with epoxy. I have two types on the way. Very cheap.
 
AquariusPanta

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
Doer said:
How soon until I discover the mystery of the seal is more the question. Brazing is not working out. I am switching to an end cover that drives on with epoxy. I have two types on the way. Very cheap.
Click to expand...
Ooo, I like mysteries! I use to watch Scooby-Doo Mysteries as a youngin'....
 
Doer

Doer

Well-Known Member
The problem is one I anticipated. It is a design choice to go with square tube. Round is so much easier to make connections, of course.

i drew up the tangents for flattening a spot on an aluminum round pipe. But, to get a 35mm square, flat cut makes the pipe awfully thin in the middle of the cut or awfully large in diameter.
And it is a lot of material to remove.

Really the best idea I may tackle later, is to create (or buy) small aluminum saddles that bolt onto a water pipe anywhere I want. Those bolts can also attach the drivers on the top of the pipe.

It is just much more fabrication than I can manage right now. But, not too difficult and certainly the most modular approach.

heatblock.JPG
 
Doer

Doer

Well-Known Member
heckler73 said:
Or you could take your parts to a local shop, pay them $40, and get them to weld it up for you. o_O
Click to expand...
I could... sorta cheating in a way.:idea: But, around here it is surprisingly difficult to find any single piece jobber that will stop his 1000 part run for $40. Serious downside to Silicon Valley.

If I took in the design for those little saddles, they could run me 1000 for a small fortune. Running 100 is a big fortune, and I still have too many.

IAC, it's cheating. My design challenge is no outsourcing. I want to figure out the easy way.

OH!! How about use a wood plug? :) I am sure that works.
 
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heckler73

heckler73

Well-Known Member
Doer said:
I'm prototyping. But, are you saying I should invest in a small TiG welder?

By gwad!! You are a genius!
Click to expand...
I had a chance, once, to scoop a nice Miller inverter (very portable), with TIG hook-ups and bottle gauges from my old boss at a huge discount...but I was a little tight on cash, and couldn't :( I would've done so much with that little rig...Yah, if you can afford one, I'd get it. They are awesome stick welders, too. 20 amp cct, and you're good for most work.

 
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