No controller yet, Ive looked into a few but settled with individual thermostats and humidistats. Only because I havent gone all electrician on my GH yet, now that shes done I can layout my backbone for wiring etc. No co2 either just fresh air when temps or moisture allows. Although both sound like an awesome investment later on. Next thing up is soil and cloth pots, do you recommend tan over black?
i like raised beds with tons ofworms .
to answer your ? tan is great
tom hills method from ic mag
Yes, 6'x18". The goal here for me is to tend well the soil depth in the area from about 1"-12" deep, this is where maximum potential (Oxygen levels, temp etc) lies regarding a productive soil. While tending this depth correctly (in regards to irrigation frequency), roots deeper than 24" would likely get culled off due to insufficient Oxygen levels anyway - so 18" soil depth is about right imo.
Some of these have 1/4" "hardware cloth" laid down first to keep critters from burrowing up into them, some don't. Some have this black breathable "ground cover" covering the entire bottom, some are left mostly open on the bottom - it all works. I have also used heavier "shade cloth" in the past instead of the ground cover, the ground cover holds up a little better/lasts longer. I use a heavy gauge "field fencing" for the containers and I think it comes in rolls that are 32" high, then I fold them to aprox 2' high. Cut to 20', + a little overlap at the connection = 6' containers.
A definite improvement is to also then wrap these things in burlap, so you don't have heat culling your roots before they reach the edges of the containers. -T
his method of spraying since i am quoteing here:
Hi Jenn,
My favorite thing to spray for outdoor crops is "brix mix" by peaceful valley farm supply (fisher15's link - groworganic.com) at 1/2 recommended dose every two weeks. I add 1 tbs per gallon of molasses to this (attracts beneficials), and 1/2 tsp per gal of ascorbic acid (vit C). I adjust this spray to 5.8 pH +/-, and bring it to 125-150 ORP via h2o2. Every two weeks, that's my foliar spray, until about midway through what we call the August stretch (stop before any buds stack). Then, as if my soil mix didn't contain enough calcium hehe, I spray once a month a product called calcium25, and stop using this at the same time as the brix mix. This approach seems to have all but stopped attack from fungus, keeps bugs down, and rarely have I had to resort to harsher measures. I will though, if need be, it's a war sometimes and that's the way it is. If pressure from insects etc, threaten to approach what some might call economically-damaging levels, I refer to the most excellent book "Hemp Diseases and Pests" (McPartland, Clarke, & Watson) to help formulate an appropriate course of action based around the particular problem at hand.
Here is the Cadillac of sprayers (need the agitation kit too). This thing on the back of a 4-wheeler with a 12v car battery on the front will keep you whistling while working.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...7991_200347991
Not sure if it still comes with this gun
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...1938_200311938 but that gun works really well.
Irrigation/fertigation,
From water source to large collection tank. From large collection tank to a 305 gallon mixing tank where I can add measured out food while it fills/mixes, then off to the garden, from the mixing tank it goes 1-1/2" poly to 3/4" poly ea servicing about 6 plants, each plant gets 6 spaghetti tubes with spray emitters. I use Earth Juice products to lower my h2o pH to 6.4 during veg, and let it creep up to 6.7 in flower.
-Tom
Hi Humboldt local,
Yes, I add amendments each year and reuse soil.
Ocean99,
If I was taking Haze the whole season yeah I'd use this mix. I never take Haze the whole season anymore though. I like to start it late so I can finish more numbers out. Started in June, I'd cut all the amendments in half or so.
Best Regards,
cut n pasted from
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=159846&page=2
