PH or magnesium lockout?

Xephier

Active Member
I have run into this problem in the recent few days that a couple of my plants have had the bottom leaves yellowing quite badly. I looked around a bit and seen some plants with "magnesium lockout" that look similar but it may also potentially be that the PH is off as I've never tested my soil(although I don't use nutes as of yet*).

IMG_0371.JPG IMG_0372.JPG
IMG_0366.JPG IMG_0367.JPG IMG_0368.JPG



*Long story short, I started the plants in this IMG_0273.JPG. It already has everything the plants need. Plants are 3 and 1/2 weeks old.

According to this PH tester that I got the PH seems to be high but should I rule out magnesium lockout?IMG_0373.JPGThat's the tap water, it's only distilled for a few hours though, not sure how much of a diff it makes.

Edit: I have looked into this a bit more and the leaves seem to be dying from the outside in(as apparent on the 5th picture). If this is not from the PH being too high then it could possibly be a potassium deficiency, that is if this guide is accurate.malady_chart.jpg
 
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mr sunshine

Well-Known Member
Problems already? That sucks! should a just went with fox farm. Easy and the chemical nutrients can be taken up instantly. Do you ph your Water? There's no quick fix for organics...u should just sell out already and buy some chemical shit...When are you going to put it into a bigger pot with better soil?
 

Alienwidow

Well-Known Member
You already knew seed starter mix has like no nutrition for plants in it right? So if you havent fed them they are starving to death right? Just checking. Its great for sprouting anything but not good for keeping plants alive in without feeding. Just figured id point that out cause i just re read the post and it says that you havent been feeding.....so i just solved your problem, your welcome.
 

Xephier

Active Member
Hmm... I added some of that fertilizer IMG_0324.JPG to the topsoil and then did a PH test of the runoff water and it read as 4.0. I did a test of the water from the night before(having distilled for several hours) and it reads at a 7.0 now but ya, 4.0 from the runoff. So long story short it seems to be a little high going in and a lot low coming off. I think my head is going to explode now >,<
 

mr sunshine

Well-Known Member
@Xephier you need to buy better soil and transplant those struggling girls..I would buy a bag of light warrior, happy frog and ocean Forrest. Mix that then I would add some worm castings and some lime and oyster shells.. and perlite. Use 5 gallon pots at least... vegg for 3 more weeks then flip...
 

mr sunshine

Well-Known Member
Hmm... I added some of that fertilizer View attachment 3411772 to the topsoil and then did a PH test of the runoff water and it read as 4.0. I did a test of the water from the night before(having distilled for several hours) and it reads at a 7.0 now but ya, 4.0 from the runoff. So long story short it seems to be a little high going in and a lot low coming off. I think my head is going to explode now >,<
Do you ph the nutrient water before you feed?
 

Xephier

Active Member
@Xephier you need to buy better soil and transplant those struggling girls..I would buy a bag of light warrior, happy frog and ocean Forrest. Mix that then I would add some worm castings and some lime and oyster shells.. and perlite. Use 5 gallon pots at least... vegg for 3 more weeks then flip...
I'm going to buy better soil but I can't transplant yet... they haven't even formed a rootball. I will transplant them when they are ready but for now I need to correct the issues in the current soil.
 

Xephier

Active Member
Do you ph the nutrient water before you feed?
It's not a liquid nutrient, I added it to the top soil. At this point I'm really wishing that I'd just gone with liquid nutes and promixhp off the bat, more costy start but easier to find people to help me since it seems to be the most common method.
 

Alienwidow

Well-Known Member
It's not a liquid nutrient, I added it to the top soil. At this point I'm really wishing that I'd just gone with liquid nutes and promixhp off the bat, more costy start but easier to find people to help me since it seems to be the most common method.
If you intend on running soiless then youre off to a good start. The seed starter mix is pretty much soiless. Theres like no food in it, just like promix, or coco, or sunshine. All these soiless mediums need to have constant feeding, at low ppm at the size plant you have. I hope you have a ppm meter or....well your basically fucked. Without a ppm meter your going to have issues aince every watering should have food in it, and its a fine line from good to overfertilized and burn plants, or in your case starved plants. If you want to fix everything just go and buy one or two bags of soil like mr sunshine said and forget about ph, feeding, and all that crap. Ffof or happy frog is plug and play. Plug em in and water for a month or more. Just water, ph nothing, no food, just water. As simple as it gets.
 

mr sunshine

Well-Known Member
I'm going to buy better soil but I can't transplant yet... they haven't even formed a rootball. I will transplant them when they are ready but for now I need to correct the issues in the current soil.
Are you ph,ing the water you use?do you ph anything? Run me threw what you do when you are going to give them water. How much nutrient do you top dress with?
 

Xephier

Active Member
Are you ph,ing the water you use?do you ph anything? Run me threw what you do when you are going to give them water. How much nutrient do you top dress with?
I linked the nutrient already, scroll up a bit. I wasn't ph'ing the water but I am going to now. I think I figured out my issue, it is likely potassium deficiency and will be fixed by raising the ph of the water(in the short run) and adding the nutrients(may take a couple weeks or so to kick in).

If you intend on running soiless then youre off to a good start. The seed starter mix is pretty much soiless. Theres like no food in it, just like promix, or coco, or sunshine. All these soiless mediums need to have constant feeding, at low ppm at the size plant you have. I hope you have a ppm meter or....well your basically fucked. Without a ppm meter your going to have issues aince every watering should have food in it, and its a fine line from good to overfertilized and burn plants, or in your case starved plants. If you want to fix everything just go and buy one or two bags of soil like mr sunshine said and forget about ph, feeding, and all that crap. Ffof or happy frog is plug and play. Plug em in and water for a month or more. Just water, ph nothing, no food, just water. As simple as it gets.
I am growing organic. The seed starter mix does have food in it(it says so right on the package) however I think that the taller of the plants have run through the food that was in the soil initially(which explains a lot). I will be transplanting into the PRO-MIX HP with worm castings blended in. The nutrients that I plan to use, I have already posted above a few posts ago. Once I get the PH up the yellowing should stop(theoretically).

I added the organic fertilizerIMG_0324.JPG to the topsoil on all of the plants now. If I'd known that it takes around 2 weeks to kick in I wouldn't have been so on edge about adding it in the first place. I also boosted the PH of the water a bit (by a couple points) although the runoff water was still really low PH(can't tell exactly how low but the lowest reading on the strips and the pool tester.
 
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Alienwidow

Well-Known Member
I linked the nutrient already, scroll up a bit. I wasn't ph'ing the water but I am going to now. I think I figured out my issue, it is likely potassium deficiency and will be fixed by raising the ph of the water(in the short run) and adding the nutrients(may take a couple weeks or so to kick in).



I am growing organic. The seed starter mix does have food in it(it says so right on the package) however I think that the taller of the plants have run through the food that was in the soil initially(which explains a lot). I will be transplanting into the PRO-MIX HP with worm castings blended in. The nutrients that I plan to use, I have already posted above a few posts ago. Once I get the PH up the yellowing should stop(theoretically).

I added the organic fertilizerView attachment 3412047 to the topsoil on all of the plants now. If I'd known that it takes around 2 weeks to kick in I wouldn't have been so on edge about adding it in the first place. I also boosted the PH of the water a bit (by a couple points) although the runoff water was still really low PH(can't tell exactly how low but the lowest reading on the strips and the pool tester.
Stupid fuck.....listen......theres no food in that. Ive told you three times now. Go to the web site. Coco, peat, pearlite. Theres noooooo food. Im done trying to explain to you. Youre wrong. Its called grower error. Thats why your plants are dying. Wait.......no, ph is off lol
 

John1961

Well-Known Member
If you want to fix everything just go and buy one or two bags of soil like mr sunshine said and forget about ph, feeding, and all that crap. Ffof or happy frog is plug and play. Plug em in and water for a month or more. Just water, ph nothing, no food, just water. As simple as it gets.
Sir - In reference to your post, I also believe in the KISS method. But shouldn't you always use some sort of Cal-Mag supplement when watering to prevent nutrient lockout and allow the plants to uptake nutrients from the soil? I'm talking about starting from seed and continuing to harvest. Granted, I am not a great grower by any stretch of the imagination, but in my limited experience it seems that watering with the correct PH is only half of the equation. Without Cal-Mag available to the plant, a correct PH watering may not help a whole lot.

Please correct me if I'm wrong. I'm always wanting to learn and understand more.
 

Xephier

Active Member
Stupid fuck.....listen......theres no food in that. Ive told you three times now. Go to the web site. Coco, peat, pearlite. Theres noooooo food. Im done trying to explain to you. Youre wrong. Its called grower error. Thats why your plants are dying. Wait.......no, ph is off lol
I said in the post that you replied to that I added fertilizer(that's food) don't be a fuckin prick or stay off my threads.
 

Alienwidow

Well-Known Member
Sir - In reference to your post, I also believe in the KISS method. But shouldn't you always use some sort of Cal-Mag supplement when watering to prevent nutrient lockout and allow the plants to uptake nutrients from the soil? I'm talking about starting from seed and continuing to harvest. Granted, I am not a great grower by any stretch of the imagination, but in my limited experience it seems that watering with the correct PH is only half of the equation. Without Cal-Mag available to the plant, a correct PH watering may not help a whole lot.

Please correct me if I'm wrong. I'm always wanting to learn and understand more.
Theres calmag present in ffof and happy frog in the form of crushed oyster shell. It wont last forever in there and from my understanding washes (leaches) out when you run water through the soil. Ill usually start supplementing with a calmag additive around a month and a half through a three month veg, provided the pots are large enough for the plants. If theyre small and the roots are packed ill start earlier.
 

xSwimToTheMoon

Well-Known Member
@Alienwidow
I wasn't aware of this and I had to start supplementing calmag myself around that timeframe. That Seems pretty spot on.

I have it bottled on hand, but for the newest plants I've got going, I added some d.lime. I'll see where Im sitting in about a month :)
 
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