Led Users Unite!
- Thread starter project fuoro
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littlejacob
Well-Known Member
Bonjour
I like the way they look...@Bad Karma ! Nice girls!
Is it subcool ace of spade? And the grape ape??
How many weeks left? 2or3 max I would say!
When do you stop nutes?
Could you add a scale on the pics...?
Something universal...like a coke can (33cl) a cigarette a bic lighter (made in
France...) but coke alu can is in all country over the world so please...to have a better idea of the size!
Have a great day ★
I like the way they look...@Bad Karma ! Nice girls!
Is it subcool ace of spade? And the grape ape??
How many weeks left? 2or3 max I would say!
When do you stop nutes?
Could you add a scale on the pics...?
Something universal...like a coke can (33cl) a cigarette a bic lighter (made in
France...) but coke alu can is in all country over the world so please...to have a better idea of the size!
Have a great day ★
Last edited:
AllDayToker
Well-Known Member
Tested out half my setup before I got started on my second half. It works! My soldering defiantly needs a little work but besides that I'm plenty happy.
Time to get crackin on the second half and hangin this thing up.
Time to get crackin on the second half and hangin this thing up.
AllDayToker
Well-Known Member
Full light. 8x CXB3070s. Running them in two sets of four with two HLG 185H 1400mA. It'll hang above my 6' × 2' flowering area. Replacing a cheap cob led panel, and my 600w HPS.
Bad Karma
Well-Known Member
The Ace of Spades were given to me by a friend who found some S1 seeds in his bud. The Hybrid pheno will be done in two weeks, so her feedings have been discontinued. The Jack's Cleaner pheno, and the GAxPC, should be done in around three weeks. I'll stop feeding them next week.
None of them are huge yielders, so I don't bother holding things up for scale, it just takes away from their beauty.
puffenuff
Well-Known Member
Day 42 on the Mendo Breath. So far I'm happy with this strain. No complaints whatsoever. Healthy, vigorous, drinks like a champ, phat colas, frosty, sticky, and stanky. Can't ask for much else. Thinking I'll pull the plug at 9 - 9.5 weeks but will play it by ear. Peace and just listen and learn
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JimmyIndica
Well-Known Member
U got some fine looking stuff there!
GlowGod
Well-Known Member
I choose not to respond on your question because it was already answered by another user who said what I would have said. They just responded to you first, so I left it alone, not to mention I hate sounding like a parrot and repeating myself or others.
I choose not to get in to details on my research because it cost me money in student loans, so when you pay off my educational bills then we can talk in details.
Furthermore I have stated its more then throwing a plant under a specific color. The lights I created for one are not just purple. The purple hue is the ambient light given off when the other color frequencies blend together as they spread away from the fixture and bounce around the room.
I also asked for seed testers to confirm or disprove my theory that these seeds will grow great under any main stream LED's on the market for sale. Which I believe is due to my breeding of these plants over the last few years under specific conditions.
Until its confirmed or disproved by others, it really wouldn't matter what research I present because the results have not been duplicated by others.
For me, all I wish to state at the moment is the fact that I only use LED's, I grow in soil, I provide water. I really don't use plant food or other nutrients, I do use additives that get flushed out at the end. I have never done hydro or electro-stimulation, I have not used a CO2 generator in years. What I have grown develops as natural as possible in an artificial environment, which I believe is due to the frequency of light that I am force feeding the plants.
I really don't want to continue conversions with people who blast random thoughts and speculation as theory without presenting anything of substance to back it up.
Anyone can make a statement. Try finding some research to back-up your beliefs even if its disproven its a much better debate then what is currently taking place, otherwise its not worth my time to respond.
Have a nice life, I know I will
I choose not to get in to details on my research because it cost me money in student loans, so when you pay off my educational bills then we can talk in details.
Furthermore I have stated its more then throwing a plant under a specific color. The lights I created for one are not just purple. The purple hue is the ambient light given off when the other color frequencies blend together as they spread away from the fixture and bounce around the room.
I also asked for seed testers to confirm or disprove my theory that these seeds will grow great under any main stream LED's on the market for sale. Which I believe is due to my breeding of these plants over the last few years under specific conditions.
Until its confirmed or disproved by others, it really wouldn't matter what research I present because the results have not been duplicated by others.
For me, all I wish to state at the moment is the fact that I only use LED's, I grow in soil, I provide water. I really don't use plant food or other nutrients, I do use additives that get flushed out at the end. I have never done hydro or electro-stimulation, I have not used a CO2 generator in years. What I have grown develops as natural as possible in an artificial environment, which I believe is due to the frequency of light that I am force feeding the plants.
I really don't want to continue conversions with people who blast random thoughts and speculation as theory without presenting anything of substance to back it up.
Anyone can make a statement. Try finding some research to back-up your beliefs even if its disproven its a much better debate then what is currently taking place, otherwise its not worth my time to respond.
Have a nice life, I know I will
AllDayToker
Well-Known Member
Dramatic. You girls lol
GlowGod
Well-Known Member
Just curios has anyone used or tried to use these THC test kits
http://cannalyticssupply.com/product/1620-thc-test-kit/#prettyPhoto
I was looking for an inexpensive way to test and post my results vs. UPLC/HPLC/GSMS testing.
They claim to be comparable, so I wanted real feedback from trusted users in this LED forum.
Here are some pics of the girls....
http://cannalyticssupply.com/product/1620-thc-test-kit/#prettyPhoto
I was looking for an inexpensive way to test and post my results vs. UPLC/HPLC/GSMS testing.
They claim to be comparable, so I wanted real feedback from trusted users in this LED forum.
Here are some pics of the girls....
AllDayToker
Well-Known Member
Well if you do purchase it defiantly come back and share your experience.
I would like to get something like this myself as well.
GlowGod
Well-Known Member
I was thinking of a testing journal and video to show the complications or ease of use.
I also have a trusted scientist at work that can assist in validating the results and double check my work.
That cannalytics supply company was the cheapest I found so far, and he is also local to my area of Colorado.
I also have a trusted scientist at work that can assist in validating the results and double check my work.
That cannalytics supply company was the cheapest I found so far, and he is also local to my area of Colorado.
FranJan
Well-Known Member
OK now I know this isn't about weed or growing inside a tent or grow room but there's some interesting info between the lines here I think. At least to my simple growin' ass 
. Could this mean that you can keep a blue LED on all night as long as you keep it under 2 µmol·m−2·s−1? And would it be worth it like Chronikool tried to figure out? Should we be swapping CCT's? God I need to quit smoking so much so I can keep up with all this info coming out!
Can white LEDs control flowering?
By Qingwu Meng and Erik S. Runkle, Michigan State University
http://www.greenhousemag.com/article/gm1015-LED-technology-growers-operations
When the natural days are short (October to March), lighting during the middle of the night (night interruption, NI) can create long days. The spectrum and intensity of the light source is critical for its efficacy. For instance, blue light does not influence flowering at a low intensity (e.g., 2 µmol·m−2·s−1), but does at a moderate intensity (e.g., 30 µmol·m−2·s−1). In addition, at a low intensity, a mixture of red and far-red light effectively promotes flowering of long-day plants, whereas only red light is needed to inhibit flowering of short-day plants.
Incandescent lamps have been used for photoperiodic control, but they have been phased out of production. Replacing incandescent lamps with compact fluorescent lamps may delay flowering of some long-day plants. Light-emitting diodes (LEDs) have emerged as an alternative because of their energy efficiency, longevity, and spectral controllability. LEDs with a similar red-to-far-red ratio to incandescent lamps are effective at controlling flowering. However, some growers wondered whether more affordable white LEDs would also be effective.
White LEDs, which are really blue LEDs coated with a phosphor, cast a broad spectrum but emit little far-red light. They are categorized into cool, neutral and warm types based on light appearance. We grew five long-day plants (calibrachoa ‘Callie Yellow Improved,’ coreopsis ‘Early Sunrise,’ petunia ‘Wave Purple Improved,’ rudbeckia ‘Indian Summer’ and snapdragon ‘Liberty Classic Yellow’) and two short-day plants (chrysanthemum ‘Cheryl Golden Yellow’ and marigold ‘American Antigua Yellow’) at 68°F under nine-hour short days with or without one of five NI lighting treatments from LEDs: red, blue+red, cool-white, warm-white or red+white+far-red.
All NI lighting treatments similarly promoted flowering of calibrachoa and rudbeckia. In coreopsis, petunia and snapdragon, the most rapid flowering occurred under the red+white+far-red LEDs (Fig. 1). Surprisingly, the white LEDs did not create long days for snapdragon at all. Therefore, they were sometimes not as effective as the LEDs that emitted both red and far-red light. In contrast, the white LEDs were very effective at inhibiting flowering of the two short-day plants. Chrysanthemum plants did not flower under the white LEDs. Also, flowering of marigold was delayed under the white LEDs. In addition, some plants (e.g., coreopsis and marigold) were shorter under the warm-white LEDs than under the red+white+far-red LEDs (Fig. 1).
In summary, the white LEDs were generally as effective as the red and blue+red LEDs as an NI. These lamps stimulated flowering in four of the five long-day plants. However, flowering was delayed in some long-day plants compared to those grown under the red+white+far-red LEDs. Therefore, lamps that emit both red and far-red light are recommended for the most rapid flowering of long-day plants. General white LEDs may be useful to inhibit flowering of short-day plants, but additional research is needed before large-scale implementation.
. Could this mean that you can keep a blue LED on all night as long as you keep it under 2 µmol·m−2·s−1? And would it be worth it like Chronikool tried to figure out? Should we be swapping CCT's? God I need to quit smoking so much so I can keep up with all this info coming out!Can white LEDs control flowering?
By Qingwu Meng and Erik S. Runkle, Michigan State University
http://www.greenhousemag.com/article/gm1015-LED-technology-growers-operations
When the natural days are short (October to March), lighting during the middle of the night (night interruption, NI) can create long days. The spectrum and intensity of the light source is critical for its efficacy. For instance, blue light does not influence flowering at a low intensity (e.g., 2 µmol·m−2·s−1), but does at a moderate intensity (e.g., 30 µmol·m−2·s−1). In addition, at a low intensity, a mixture of red and far-red light effectively promotes flowering of long-day plants, whereas only red light is needed to inhibit flowering of short-day plants.
Incandescent lamps have been used for photoperiodic control, but they have been phased out of production. Replacing incandescent lamps with compact fluorescent lamps may delay flowering of some long-day plants. Light-emitting diodes (LEDs) have emerged as an alternative because of their energy efficiency, longevity, and spectral controllability. LEDs with a similar red-to-far-red ratio to incandescent lamps are effective at controlling flowering. However, some growers wondered whether more affordable white LEDs would also be effective.
White LEDs, which are really blue LEDs coated with a phosphor, cast a broad spectrum but emit little far-red light. They are categorized into cool, neutral and warm types based on light appearance. We grew five long-day plants (calibrachoa ‘Callie Yellow Improved,’ coreopsis ‘Early Sunrise,’ petunia ‘Wave Purple Improved,’ rudbeckia ‘Indian Summer’ and snapdragon ‘Liberty Classic Yellow’) and two short-day plants (chrysanthemum ‘Cheryl Golden Yellow’ and marigold ‘American Antigua Yellow’) at 68°F under nine-hour short days with or without one of five NI lighting treatments from LEDs: red, blue+red, cool-white, warm-white or red+white+far-red.
All NI lighting treatments similarly promoted flowering of calibrachoa and rudbeckia. In coreopsis, petunia and snapdragon, the most rapid flowering occurred under the red+white+far-red LEDs (Fig. 1). Surprisingly, the white LEDs did not create long days for snapdragon at all. Therefore, they were sometimes not as effective as the LEDs that emitted both red and far-red light. In contrast, the white LEDs were very effective at inhibiting flowering of the two short-day plants. Chrysanthemum plants did not flower under the white LEDs. Also, flowering of marigold was delayed under the white LEDs. In addition, some plants (e.g., coreopsis and marigold) were shorter under the warm-white LEDs than under the red+white+far-red LEDs (Fig. 1).
In summary, the white LEDs were generally as effective as the red and blue+red LEDs as an NI. These lamps stimulated flowering in four of the five long-day plants. However, flowering was delayed in some long-day plants compared to those grown under the red+white+far-red LEDs. Therefore, lamps that emit both red and far-red light are recommended for the most rapid flowering of long-day plants. General white LEDs may be useful to inhibit flowering of short-day plants, but additional research is needed before large-scale implementation.
Qingwu (William) Meng is a Ph.D. student and Erik Runkle (runkleer@msu.edu) is a professor and floriculture extension specialist in the Department of Horticulture at Michigan State University. They thank the USDA National Institute of Food and Agriculture’s Specialty Crop Research Initiative and MSU’s Project GREEEN for funding this research, C. Raker & Sons and Syngenta Flowers for donating plant material and Nate DuRussel for technical assistance.
GlowGod
Well-Known Member
I use NI with Red & Far Red with IR.
I feel that doing so enhances resin production and stimulates flower development as in the when used in regular intervals of 24-48hrs then on the regular light cycle the rest of the week.
Originally I was shown this by a California grower who sold me a LED light back when they first came out and his was full spectrum with red/red/yellow/white/blue
In college I learned that the red light can be used to extend flowering. This theory I believe was developed by the Doppler effect of red shift = far distance and blue shift = close distance. In relation to plant development, Spring & Summer more blue shift (close to the sun), then fall and winter were more red shift (Further away from the sun).
The issue is that Red spectrum of light is used to extend the flowering cycle. It will not work well if used all the time during the night cycle. Plants use that night time to develop and grow vs when the light is on and its compared to consuming nutrients and influencing carbohydrate production.
This should be even more true with white light since the color is activating the tissue with full spectrum lights during NI cycles.
The intensity will have more to do with the distance and rated PAR value of the light your attempting to use.
Really what you would want to do is maximize the growth (Longer Blue/White light hours) or flowing cycle (Longer Red / Deep Red Cycles) by creating your own circadian rhythm for the plant.
Some people accomplish this by a variance of 6-8hrs of darkness for Veg - Blue Light
Then 12 - 18hrs of darkness for Flower Cycle or Red light.
For Flower:
In the past I have used 2hrs red 12hrs full spectrum light followed by 2hrs of red before turning off for 8hrs. It was ok, but the better results came from weekends in Red 24hrs and then during the week as a 12/12 cycle.
In Veg I try to be off for 8hrs and then on for 16hrs with full spectrum lighting. Back when I was doing the 2x12x2x8 flower cycle I supplemented with white light from T5's during the 12hr period to stimulate longer vegetative states in leaf development while the plants were in flowering cycles. Because those early LED's focused more on RED/RED/White/Blue
Now I use everything from IR - UV in various stages of development, But that came later after researching how the different spectrums effected different parts of the plants.
I feel that doing so enhances resin production and stimulates flower development as in the when used in regular intervals of 24-48hrs then on the regular light cycle the rest of the week.
Originally I was shown this by a California grower who sold me a LED light back when they first came out and his was full spectrum with red/red/yellow/white/blue
In college I learned that the red light can be used to extend flowering. This theory I believe was developed by the Doppler effect of red shift = far distance and blue shift = close distance. In relation to plant development, Spring & Summer more blue shift (close to the sun), then fall and winter were more red shift (Further away from the sun).
The issue is that Red spectrum of light is used to extend the flowering cycle. It will not work well if used all the time during the night cycle. Plants use that night time to develop and grow vs when the light is on and its compared to consuming nutrients and influencing carbohydrate production.
This should be even more true with white light since the color is activating the tissue with full spectrum lights during NI cycles.
The intensity will have more to do with the distance and rated PAR value of the light your attempting to use.
Really what you would want to do is maximize the growth (Longer Blue/White light hours) or flowing cycle (Longer Red / Deep Red Cycles) by creating your own circadian rhythm for the plant.
Some people accomplish this by a variance of 6-8hrs of darkness for Veg - Blue Light
Then 12 - 18hrs of darkness for Flower Cycle or Red light.
For Flower:
In the past I have used 2hrs red 12hrs full spectrum light followed by 2hrs of red before turning off for 8hrs. It was ok, but the better results came from weekends in Red 24hrs and then during the week as a 12/12 cycle.
In Veg I try to be off for 8hrs and then on for 16hrs with full spectrum lighting. Back when I was doing the 2x12x2x8 flower cycle I supplemented with white light from T5's during the 12hr period to stimulate longer vegetative states in leaf development while the plants were in flowering cycles. Because those early LED's focused more on RED/RED/White/Blue
Now I use everything from IR - UV in various stages of development, But that came later after researching how the different spectrums effected different parts of the plants.
