Dyna-Gro information needed.

[zachyweezer88]

Hey guys,

I'm looking for some information regarding the feeding schedule when using Dyna-Gro in a DWC system.

I looked in some older threads and found someone else looking for this information, and one person provided this link: http://www.hhydro.com/files/Instructions/dynagro.pdf

No replies followed, so I couldn't find out anything else. So, should you apply the "1/4 and work your way up" rule of thumb to the above, or what? I know many of you have experience with this product, so I'd love some input. Thanks a lot.

 

[ricky1lung]

@homebrewer is your DG guy.
Hopefully he sees this and helps you out

 

[zachyweezer88]

@homebrewer is your DG guy.
Hopefully he sees this and helps you out

Thanks man

 

[questiondj42]

Hey guys,

I'm looking for some information regarding the feeding schedule when using Dyna-Gro in a DWC system.

I looked in some older threads and found someone else looking for this information, and one person provided this link: http://www.hhydro.com/files/Instructions/dynagro.pdf

No replies followed, so I couldn't find out anything else. So, should you apply the "1/4 and work your way up" rule of thumb to the above, or what? I know many of you have experience with this product, so I'd love some input. Thanks a lot.

If you don't have a TDS meter, it's a good way to start out. Especially if you're using tap. I'm running about 500ppm in my DWC veg and 800ppm in my DWC bloom tent. Using FP and Protekt.

 

[zachyweezer88]

If you don't have a TDS meter, it's a good way to start out. Especially if you're using tap. I'm running about 500ppm in my DWC veg and 800ppm in my DWC bloom tent. Using FP and Protekt.

Do you use FP during bloom? I was led to believe that FP was for veg and Bloom was for flower.

 

[questiondj42]

Do you use FP during bloom? I was led to believe that FP was for veg and Bloom was for flower.

I started off using just Bloom in flower, but was getting yellowing. Despite HBs recommendation to do 70/30 Bloom/FP, I went all FP and Protekt after hearing a podcast with the DynaGro owner. My yellowing at the bottom cleared up quickly when I went just FP. I'm about to chop this plant, and will be trying the Bloom/FP mix with the next plant in flower and see if there is much difference. They're both the same strain.

I recently added KLN and have noticed a good improvement in root growth and density.

Also, the podcast talked about the benefits of silica and how it can toughen the cell structure of the plant, making it physically stronger. Since adding Protekt all around, I've seen the stems and branches become more robust and thicker, and the leaves seem thicker and stronger too.

 

[zachyweezer88]

I started off using just Bloom in flower, but was getting yellowing. Despite HBs recommendation to do 70/30 Bloom/FP, I went all FP and Protekt after hearing a podcast with the DynaGro owner. My yellowing at the bottom cleared up quickly when I went just FP. I'm about to chop this plant, and will be trying the Bloom/FP mix with the next plant in flower and see if there is much difference. They're both the same strain.

I recently added KLN and have noticed a good improvement in root growth and density.

Also, the podcast talked about the benefits of silica and how it can toughen the cell structure of the plant, making it physically stronger. Since adding Protekt all around, I've seen the stems and branches become more robust and thicker, and the leaves seem thicker and stronger too.

Great info, man. Yeah, I've been debating whether to pick up a bottle of Protekt. I think you just sold me on it.

If I were to buy a TDS meter, how would it help me exactly? Does its usefulness really come into play when using anything other than RO or distilled water?

 

[questiondj42]

Great info, man. Yeah, I've been debating whether to pick up a bottle of Protekt. I think you just sold me on it.

If I were to buy a TDS meter, how would it help me exactly? Does its usefulness really come into play when using anything other than RO or distilled water?

Knowing what's going on in the reservoir is important. A TDS meter will help you to determine if the plants are feeding, the rate at which they're feeding, and the salt concentration of the solution. The idea is that you want to feed the least amount of food necessary to keep the plants healthy. Too much food, the plants wills suffer, too little food, they won't thrive.

Using RO or distilled water over tap gives the ability to feed more food, since the ceiling isn't lowered by the dissolved solids present in tap water. But more importantly, it provides a more stable pH platform. Using tap water, I experience pH swings up to a full point, and frequently have to manage the pH in the reservoir twice a day. Since switching, pH has gotten far, far more stable.

 

[Igotthe6]

I found the opposite to be true here.The ph on my rdwc gets set and stays right at 5.5 until I change nutes. Really no fluctuation.I had switched to r/o when I moved from my own well to city water because of the chlorine but ditched it after my first calcium deficiency.I think it really depends where you live.....the water you have to work with.

 

[taproot]

I'm thinking of going FP+magpro+protekt. I've read a lot of threads at various places and posts by uncleben and decided the whole nutrient industry is just misguiding the users for a sale. I understand wanting to make a buck but also being honest gets you loyalty which should in the end get you business. I'm still very new to all this and only have two harvest under my belt but I'm already tired of having to dose from 5+ bottles with all the additives and stuff that I can't see really making a whole lot of difference. And, the more shit I have to add not only cost money and time but it also can make the solution less than idea or worse with things just not needed. I've also found that less is more, for at least me, so I'm not seeing the need to add full doses anymore, unless needed, as I'm trying more to read the plant and my meters more than the manufacture schedule. In my last runs I noticed the super high bloom boosters not only slowed down bud growth but they seemed to burn the leaves or lock out other minerals. DG FP has the N but with a little mag pro I get some added P which should be completely enough, and add some protekt for some silica should allow more ph stability. I just want three bottles, or less, and concentrate more on my environment then my nutrients. Like I said I'm new to all this but I've decided that I tend to over do this or that and make this way more complicated than it should be.

 

[zachyweezer88]

Knowing what's going on in the reservoir is important. A TDS meter will help you to determine if the plants are feeding, the rate at which they're feeding, and the salt concentration of the solution. The idea is that you want to feed the least amount of food necessary to keep the plants healthy. Too much food, the plants wills suffer, too little food, they won't thrive.

Using RO or distilled water over tap gives the ability to feed more food, since the ceiling isn't lowered by the dissolved solids present in tap water. But more importantly, it provides a more stable pH platform. Using tap water, I experience pH swings up to a full point, and frequently have to manage the pH in the reservoir twice a day. Since switching, pH has gotten far, far more stable.

Thanks a lot, man. All of you guys have been a great help. I've discovered that there are many, many conflicting opinions on the merits of using tap water vs. RO. It seems to come down to where you live and the quality of the water provided, as Igotthe6 pointed out. It seems that RO is fine as long as it is supplemented with CalMag. Is this a product where you can follow the instructions on the label?

 

[zachyweezer88]

I'm thinking of going FP+magpro+protekt. I've read a lot of threads at various places and posts by uncleben and decided the whole nutrient industry is just misguiding the users for a sale. I understand wanting to make a buck but also being honest gets you loyalty which should in the end get you business. I'm still very new to all this and only have two harvest under my belt but I'm already tired of having to dose from 5+ bottles with all the additives and stuff that I can't see really making a whole lot of difference. And, the more shit I have to add not only cost money and time but it also can make the solution less than idea or worse with things just not needed. I've also found that less is more, for at least me, so I'm not seeing the need to add full doses anymore, unless needed, as I'm trying more to read the plant and my meters more than the manufacture schedule. In my last runs I noticed the super high bloom boosters not only slowed down bud growth but they seemed to burn the leaves or lock out other minerals. DG FP has the N but with a little mag pro I get some added P which should be completely enough, and add some protekt for some silica should allow more ph stability. I just want three bottles, or less, and concentrate more on my environment then my nutrients. Like I said I'm new to all this but I've decided that I tend to over do this or that and make this way more complicated than it should be.

Hey, Taproot. I hear you, man. I have no harvests under my belt. At the moment, I'm simply trying to make sense of the basics so I can get started. I'm a hands on learner though, so I expect to make plenty of mistakes. I just want to have a little something to show for all my troubles at the end. I'd be happy with a quarter. Anyway, I see where you're coming from with your opinions on the nutrient companies. In their quest to make a buck, they make things unnecessarily confusing for those just getting started. I'm happy to be finding this out from all of you before spending a ton of money on boutique nutes.

 

[taproot]

If Jacks pro hydro had all the elements that DG has I'd probably be using them. The're cheaper and they are dry nutrients which I'd prefer but they don't have all the elements that DG has. From what I've seen Jacks is solid and a lot of people use it very very successfully but I think a well balanced diet of essentials probably brings out the best of the plant. I may try it in the future. I've tried fox farms / botanicare and several high end bloom boosters and specialty additives. I've spent way way less than most here but I noticed fairly quickly that adding all this shit was was only making things way more complicated and or screwing things up unnecessarily. Both of those nutes are solid by the way but I don't like paying for water now that I have more understanding of this hobby but DG is really concentrated so I feel more comfortable about buying a liquid nutrient from them. And, I don't like having to spend all that time taking a few ml/s from this bottle and that bottle and the others etc... too much time so I want simple. Maxibloom via the lucas formula has me wanting to try it as it's probably the most simple but I still am swaying over to the DG side for the well balanced diet and DG is well within my budget. A lot of people are blending the veg with the bloom at 50/50 or 75/25 and having great results and some have used just FP. For experimenting....I'm thinking of getting 32oz of the FP, 8oz of magpro and 8oz of protekt and blending them all into one bottle. It would be nice to just measure out a few ml/s once and poor it into the res; then check the PH and adjust if necessary then walk away. I'm going to try dwc now but hempy buckets have been good to me! With some of that money you're going to save buy some quality instruments like a PH & TDS/PPM or EC meter. That's another lesson I learned; cheap meters cost you more in the long run...so buy some quality meters.

 

[questiondj42]

I'm thinking of getting 32oz of the FP, 8oz of magpro and 8oz of protekt and blending them all into one bottle. It would be nice to just measure out a few ml/s once and poor it into the res; then check the PH and adjust if necessary then walk away.

If you decide to do this, please post the results. It's been my experience that, when exposed to anything other than water first, Protekt condensates and things fall out of solution. Like, chunks of silica in the pipette. And that was with just a few drops of bloom being exposed to it. It seems that chemistry is the main reason for needing separate bottles.

 

[questiondj42]

If someone had the time/space/budget, it would be interesting to see if there's a difference during flower, between just running FP, an FP/Bloom mix, and just Bloom. I'm too lazy to Google it at the moment, but do all blooming plants benefit from a change in nutrient ratio from N heavy to more PK heavy? Like, what do folks that grow orchids, roses, tulips, etc, do? Or is there just as much mystique surrounding those as there is with ganja?

 

[taproot]

Well the reason I was going to mix 8oz of the magpro with 32oz of FP was to give the mix a little more P but not too much. I was going to use the FP over the bloom because I like the high N profile but it lacks some P. That and I want to add some sulfur so the bloom+magpro might be too much in the P at that point. From a lot of post I've read, especially by uncle ben, having and maintaining a healthy level of N all the way through for leaf health is more important than super high levels of P. Actually from his experiments it seems like cannabis does not need high level of P to flower, it may help initiate it but just a moderate dose seems to be fine. Like I said I'm still new and only have two harvests but from all this stupid additives and super bloom this and super that it seems to me that the nutrients play only a small part in the whole picture. So, I'm trying to concentrate on feeding them a well balanced diet with a minimum of nutes and concentrate more on technique and the environmental factors. I've seen a lot of people on icmag and here flower all the way through with just a base veg formula. Seems like the FP is a great base veg and adding just a pinch of P/MG & S (magpro) would round it out well. If I find the protekt does in fact precipitate if not added to water first I'll probably get a gallon of distilled water from the store and pour half out and then add in 8oz of protekt and see if it mixes..... then add the 32oz of FP and 8oz of magpro which would give me 112 oz of solution. If all that goes well then hopefully I can add a little straight protekt here and there for PH up to the res. I'm using tap water from the city supply that comes out at about 200 PPM and about 6.2 on the PH. I've not had a analysis done but I personally think, from looking at the faucets, that most of this is from calcium.

 

[supdro]

This may help. I used it with success. I would add pondzyme with the hydroguard