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woz from oz

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Woz.. I am still new here but local, most of these guys are USA based so you wont get feedback till over night.

Look at this link

https://www.rollitup.org/t/matching-drivers-and-cobs.883866/ Supra set it up so that you can do some easy calcs to work out what driver you need for the Veros. Based on what you said that driver can run 4 @ 1400ma or the HLG-120H-C700 can run 6 @ 700ma. I don't know how to do the efficiency calcs so you'll have to wait for the others to jump in.

Can't answer the rest yet.. still learning like you! (plus I don't want to be the guy that gives you advice that burns your house down :P)
Thanks For the reply Syd. I try hard not to burn the house down but I'm always amazed at what you can get out of a power point.
I had a look at Supra's chart and you are right but wouldn't I sacrifice actual light? Thats why I went with the two drivers. I would like something to replace the 600w HPS which I think I read is only 2/3s efficient so a setup delivering 4-500w would be nice.
 
Thanks For the reply Syd. I try hard not to burn the house down but I'm always amazed at what you can get out of a power point.
I had a look at Supra's chart and you are right but wouldn't I sacrifice actual light? Thats why I went with the two drivers. I would like something to replace the 600w HPS which I think I read is only 2/3s efficient so a setup delivering 4-500w would be nice.
And that Woz is the $100 question.. I don't fully understand that part yet.

What you can tell from the Spec sheet.. Max A is 4.2 x 40.4 Vf = 169.7W (4.2*40.4) so that is max light but at that rate your getting an l/m of 110/W... If you look down the scale @ 2.1A you get 2.1*38= 79.8W and l/m of 137/w so you get more light output per wattage.

Yes its less "light" but you generate light more efficiently. From what I have been reading.. the aim is 30-50w per square foot and higher (closer to 50w) is obviously better than closer to 30w..The key is to generate it as efficiently as possible...I was reading somewhere else that around 7000lm is also a good target point and higher is better. By running the LED's at high rates.. you generate lots of heat which degrades the Cob faster... but faster is probably relative (i.e 30,000 hours instead of 50,000 etc.. this is just me speculating).

The other side is that the Drivers are more expensive so in terms of costs and output 2100ma is cheaper to obtain (and more efficient than 4200ma).

Just because its more efficient to run them at lower levels doesn't mean you have to! My understanding of this section is to find a middle ground where you get value for money at the right intensity. BTW plenty of DIY builds using your thoughts... Also look at Optics Grow LED's and look at their Vero Products.. you can use their stats for your own build...
 

ZenOne

Well-Known Member
are there any leds on the market right now i can produce a profitable weight
for say 25+ plants
or am i just better of using hps?
Havent grown in quite some time..
just starting up again, cost effectivness would be my only reason
for putting thought into leds.
anyhelp is much appreciated.
Will post a journel/pics when its all together
Thanks!!!

Stay Up:leaf:
 

littlejacob

Well-Known Member
are there any leds on the market right now i can produce a profitable weight
for say 25+ plants
or am i just better of using hps?
Havent grown in quite some time..
just starting up again, cost effectivness would be my only reason
for putting thought into leds.
anyhelp is much appreciated.
Will post a journel/pics when its all together
Thanks!!!

Stay Up:leaf:
Bonjour
There is a lot of cob panels seller here on riu...they all use the same components...cxb/vero and Meanwell driver...very effective lights...
tastyled/pacificlightconcept/johnsongrowlight/heavenbright/gogreenled...so it is up to you now...just compare price and/or design to choose one...
cU
 

littlejacob

Well-Known Member
And that Woz is the $100 question.. I don't fully understand that part yet.

What you can tell from the Spec sheet.. Max A is 4.2 x 40.4 Vf = 169.7W (4.2*40.4) so that is max light but at that rate your getting an l/m of 110/W... If you look down the scale @ 2.1A you get 2.1*38= 79.8W and l/m of 137/w so you get more light output per wattage.

Yes its less "light" but you generate light more efficiently. From what I have been reading.. the aim is 30-50w per square foot and higher (closer to 50w) is obviously better than closer to 30w..The key is to generate it as efficiently as possible...I was reading somewhere else that around 7000lm is also a good target point and higher is better. By running the LED's at high rates.. you generate lots of heat which degrades the Cob faster... but faster is probably relative (i.e 30,000 hours instead of 50,000 etc.. this is just me speculating).

The other side is that the Drivers are more expensive so in terms of costs and output 2100ma is cheaper to obtain (and more efficient than 4200ma).

Just because its more efficient to run them at lower levels doesn't mean you have to! My understanding of this section is to find a middle ground where you get value for money at the right intensity. BTW plenty of DIY builds using your thoughts... Also look at Optics Grow LED's and look at their Vero Products.. you can use their stats for your own build...
Bonjour
With cxb3590 30w sq/ft is more than enough...50w is for shitty panels!
I grew with 18w of cxb 3590 3500ºk 36V CD sq/ft...210w over a 3.5x3.5x4.5
and I have good results...it was to test spread and cxb...but I will definitely go for 30w sq/ft...30w over each sq/ft...not all the cobs in the middle...hps style!...no no no!20160107_202505.jpg
it is one of five plants so cxb are very efficient even at 17/18w sq/ft
CU
 

hillbill

Well-Known Member
Working on 45 watts sqft here with great panels at the moment, 20 watts sqft in veg via a w90 4000k. This is with a mix of commercial cob lights and 5w Cree diode panels. With softly run cobs that could be pushed significantly lower. However, some fool is gonna ask, "What about 150 watt sqft?".

I hate blurple!
 

Fluffyhead22

Well-Known Member
Quick question I will make it short. I currently have 1 tent. With a 400 watt mh/hps. Been running 1 plant from seed to harvest. I'm planning on getting another tent to veg one plant in so I don't have to wait so long between harvests. Wow your a genius you might say. Well here's the deal. I don't want to draw touch power. So would one of those mars 300 watt led lights on ebay for like 70$ be efficient enough for 1 plant like 2' by 2'. For only veg
 
For veg only? Yeah they will do it. They are basically what I'm converting into cobs style reflectors at the moment.

You could also look into CFL bulbs if you really want but for simple veg from cuttings or seeds then you can definitely. I've got proof in my tent they work.
 

Greedy-Green

Active Member
Quick question I will make it short. I currently have 1 tent. With a 400 watt mh/hps. Been running 1 plant from seed to harvest. I'm planning on getting another tent to veg one plant in so I don't have to wait so long between harvests. Wow your a genius you might say. Well here's the deal. I don't want to draw touch power. So would one of those mars 300 watt led lights on ebay for like 70$ be efficient enough for 1 plant like 2' by 2'. For only veg
Iv been looking at them too, read a lot of mixed reviews on them but they have a good spectrum and give off a lot of lumen per watt
If u have the money to spare then is sujjest the mars 2 or the reflector (green) units but as Sydney just said they will work no doubt and during veg they will defo be enough!
Cfl's would be a good option too I'm looking into getting some a supplements seen a 300w for 35 I think so two of them will be my next buy, having two tents is a brill idea!!
If u do go led or cfl in that case do your research as for optiumum
Results you have to use them very differently
Hope this has helped
Happy Farmin
 

jeroly

Well-Known Member
For veg only? Yeah they will do it. They are basically what I'm converting into cobs style reflectors at the moment.

You could also look into CFL bulbs if you really want but for simple veg from cuttings or seeds then you can definitely. I've got proof in my tent they work.
I've seen the video and discussion around converting the Mars 400 (reusing the chassis and drivers IIRC), but it's not so great if you don't have one to begin with - those go for around $200.

Buying the Mars 300 at $70, on the other hand, might be an attractive component of a CXB3590 DIY build.

Does anyone have the 'recipe' for converting a 300? It would be a fun project for me to build a veg light using Cree and a repurposed lighting fixture.
 
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flexy123

Well-Known Member
Buying the Mars 300 at $70, on the other hand, might be an attractive component of a CXB3590 DIY build.

Does anyone have the 'recipe' for converting a 300? It would be a fun project for me to build a veg light using Cree and a repurposed lighting fixture.
I am in the same boat, getting a light with 4x CXB 3590 now which means I'll have two MarsHydro 300W lights over.
I am not planning to run them in addition with the COBs - but I might extend my growing area in the future and might want additional CREE COBs, so making a "Ghetto COB" out of the MarsHydro would be a fun project!

As far as I can tell, this should be REALLY easy, I had the MH lights open many times already. Basically you would disassemble them, AFAIK there is also a way to separate the heatsink from the PCB with the LEDs.

Then you slap ONE COB on there or if you want even two - the only issue is with the size of the case so that with TWO COBs in one housing the COBs would only be about 15cm apart which I don't consider optimal, but it'll definitely work.

The two MH drivers are 60W each, DC out: 55V-100V@0.69A - 0.72A so they can only deliver 0.72A, that would be "ok" for a 72V COB under-driving (maybe there are better suitable COBs for those drivers??)..or you get some ebay drivers for $15-$20 that can deliver some more amps if you want to drive the COBs a little harder than 0.72A. (Building a light with MH 300W case and a Meanwell driver for €82 I don't see as too smart, mainly because of the small case, small heatsink etc, then rather a bigass 80cm length heatsink and proper distance of the lights.

The heatsink of the MH w/ the fan is rather underdimensioned so I wouldn't want to run them too hard, but it should be able to do two COBS at 50/60W each. I am seeing myself doing this already just out of boredom :)

*** Alternatively ***

I don't want to do this since I THINK the COBs will be all I need, but you can well re-purpose the MH and make them additional vegging or flowering lights.

You can get 3W (READ: 3W, because "5W" Epistar chips don't actually EXIST!!), those exact chips on ebay. I just got some from UK to replace some of my MH 300W "5W" (cough, cough) LEDs.

The LEDs used in those lights (not offical, my own findings):

14 Blue (12 Dark/Royal Blue, 2 Bright Blue)
33 Red (17 Bright Red, 16 Deep Red)
13 Warm White 3500k

Deep Red (640-660nm), Bright Red (620-630nm), Royal Blue (440-450nm), Bright Blue (460-470nm)

So when you have white COBs already, remove the whites and reds of the MH light, and then just solder to you heart's desire a bunch more Royal Blues and a few Bright Blues.

Or for a flowering lamp, remove blues and whites and add more Bright Red and Deep Red.
Check the ebay vendor "futureeden", this is where I got my LEDs from.

** Funny advice: When you solder, do NOT melt any working LEDs with your fricking soldering iron :) I have this stupid soldering iron with a screw sticking out, I couldn't believe it, I replaced 4 broken LEDs and while doing so melted 4 or 5 others which were totally fine by accidentally touching them with the iron...seriously....FACEPALM. Fortunately I had enough spares... :)
 
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Or you can run multiple cxb2530, cxb3070, Vero 18 or 29's of each driver in series at 720ma which would crush the pissy 3w led panels. Each Mars driver can handle 2-3 cobs based on your driver numbers. Depending on which cob you use.

The 2530 or Vero 18 would work best value wise as you can get them for around $10 each.
 

littlejacob

Well-Known Member
Quick question I will make it short. I currently have 1 tent. With a 400 watt mh/hps. Been running 1 plant from seed to harvest. I'm planning on getting another tent to veg one plant in so I don't have to wait so long between harvests. Wow your a genius you might say. Well here's the deal. I don't want to draw touch power. So would one of those mars 300 watt led lights on ebay for like 70$ be efficient enough for 1 plant like 2' by 2'. For only veg
Bonjour
Mars pull something like 74/76 lm/w...t5 (2inch) 80/84 lm/w...
Vero10 (5/6 $) 120lm/w...cxb 3590 @1400mA...180 lm/w...!
Don't buy a mars...buy 6500ºk t5...it os better!
CU
 

Fluffyhead22

Well-Known Member
Bonjour
Mars pull something like 74/76 lm/w...t5 (2inch) 80/84 lm/w...
Vero10 (5/6 $) 120lm/w...cxb 3590 @1400mA...180 lm/w...!
Don't buy a mars...buy 6500ºk t5...it os better!
CU
Haven't looked into. T5s this light will be for veg only. Also trying to keep the budget very low. But also don't want some stretchy plants. Thanks if you have any links to decent t5 set ups send them my way. Thanks
 

littlejacob

Well-Known Member
Bonjour
Sorry I am in EU but you could find good t5 in 6500ºk for vegg at decent prices...!
But diy could be a good solution for you!...
If you know how to drill /tap /apply thermal paste (or use pads)/and connect few wire with wagos...you can do it!
Just do one thing before buy anything...watch Growmau5 videos...it will open your eyes and teach you a looot on cob lightning...if you watch the building video you will try to do your own...it is so simple...and I am sure many here including me will help you all along...!
CU
 
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