Matching Drivers and COBs

Thorhax

Well-Known Member
This chart shows how many COBs you can fit on each driver. Hopefully it will save DIYers some time or give them some ideas.

If the number of COBs is 3.93 for example, you could run 4 and you won't get the full drive current but you will get full driver efficiency. If the number is 4.1 that is a very good match, full driver efficiency and cost efficiency. (Driver efficiency is highest when the voltage load on the DC side is at or near the maximum)

The high voltage drivers work with the COBs wired in series. The high current drivers (HLG-320H and 600H) work with the COBs wired in parallel and those are good options if you want to run multiple COBs at high current. They are all dimmable. Prices are based on Onlinecomponents.com because they have $6.95 flat shipping cost. If you are buying 10 or more Sager might be the best bet.

View attachment 3500031
When going on your graphs i decided to run 3 Vero 29's off 1
This chart shows how many COBs you can fit on each driver. Hopefully it will save DIYers some time or give them some ideas.

If the number of COBs is 3.93 for example, you could run 4 and you won't get the full drive current but you will get full driver efficiency. If the number is 4.1 that is a very good match, full driver efficiency and cost efficiency. (Driver efficiency is highest when the voltage load on the DC side is at or near the maximum)

The high voltage drivers work with the COBs wired in series. The high current drivers (HLG-320H and 600H) work with the COBs wired in parallel and those are good options if you want to run multiple COBs at high current. They are all dimmable. Prices are based on Onlinecomponents.com because they have $6.95 flat shipping cost. If you are buying 10 or more Sager might be the best bet.

View attachment 3500031
cam I run 3 vero 29s off a hlg-185-1400?
 

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
anyone use the code CUTANDROLL @ cutter lately ? can't seem to get it to work
reorder
Edit ::: man that was Fast ! Mark 's looking into it for me i'll get back
edit2 coupon is back working per Mark
 
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SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
I think the best way to check each COB when in parallel would be a low current clamp meter because an inline ammeter will interfere with the circuit. BUT they are at least $127 for a decent one. You could just check the voltage of each COB and get a pretty good idea though.
 

Thorhax

Well-Known Member
I think the best way to check each COB when in parallel would be a low current clamp meter because an inline ammeter will interfere with the circuit. BUT they are at least $127 for a decent one. You could just check the voltage of each COB and get a pretty good idea though.
is there a difference between running COBs in parallel and series?
 

bassman999

Well-Known Member
I think the best way to check each COB when in parallel would be a low current clamp meter because an inline ammeter will interfere with the circuit. BUT they are at least $127 for a decent one. You could just check the voltage of each COB and get a pretty good idea though.
Ill try the latter with individual voltage
 

welight

Well-Known Member
Yes you should be able to get full current or even slightly above. I estimate your COBs would be 237.3V once warmed up. The driver maxes at 238-239V. If your driver is a B version it is probably capable of 1090mA. If It is an A version possibly as much as 1150mA. The driver will self limit the current so that the COB voltage maxes its maximum. So there is no way to know exactly the max current you will get until you hook it up, but I think it is safe to say you will get at least 1050mA.

The 3000K 80 CRi is 4.66 umol/s/PAR W and the 4000K 70 CRi is 4.53. I expect the 3500K will be somewhere in between. I have been using the figure of 4.65 since the CRi and SPD are similar, but now that we have the actual SPD thanks to @welight /Mark/Cutter, maybe our calculus guru @alesh can give us a better estimate and LER. Not sure this graph is detailed enough but Mark might have the CSV data?

View attachment 3582032
yes I do have this in Excel format broken down in 1nm steps if thats of interest, can also produce these graphs in
German Din Standard 5031-10
Chlorophyll A
Chlorophyll B
B Carotene
Chlorophyll F
if you need more specifc data and Mcree's does not cover it for you
cheers
Mark
 

p4id

Well-Known Member
Hi, I am wanting to make more single cxb3590 72v units and was thinking of using HLG-60H-C700B to run single cobs, I don't need to dim, so just checking before i order, as you might know of a better option to run single CXB3590 72v's
Any help greatly appreciated :-)
 

PurpleBuz

Well-Known Member
Hi, I am wanting to make more single cxb3590 72v units and was thinking of using HLG-60H-C700B to run single cobs, I don't need to dim, so just checking before i order, as you might know of a better option to run single CXB3590 72v's
Any help greatly appreciated :-)
if you don't need dimming get the "A" version. it has an internal voltage adjustment screw so can still dim, but no external dimming wires to mess with.
 

Thorhax

Well-Known Member
IMG_0271.JPG
As far as performance/efficiency/output, they perform the same. As far as pros and cons of the wiring and driver choices there are many differences.
So with the hlg-185h-c1400a work with 3 vero 29s ran in a series? I have each cob on an arctic 11 plus. ill be running sets of 6 fans off 1 lpv-20-12.

Im trying to make 8x 400w panels.

Im still in the process making them so forgive the sloppy looks
 

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
Looks good , I like the CPU coolers I just can't ATM afford them long heat sinks
is that wood board with the cpu coolers in cut-outs ? great budget idea
I was gonna use AL angle stock & drill into the side of Cpu cooler @ that thick base on two sides
& use the angle stock as rails to attach each CPU cooler
a self tapping screw will do 3/16" just pre-drill the holes
that perforated angle iron is Heavy to use
 

Thorhax

Well-Known Member
Looks good , I like the CPU coolers I just can't ATM afford them long heat sinks
is that wood board with the cpu coolers in cut-outs ? great budget idea
I was gonna use AL angle stock & drill into the side of Cpu cooler @ that thick base on two sides
& use the angle stock as rails to attach each CPU cooler
a self tapping screw will do 3/16" just pre-drill the holes
that perforated angle iron is Heavy to use
I cut 2.75 inch holes in the, i also coated the inside with white primer and paint.
IMG_0273.JPG

to be honest i would love to make the next 6 panels i need to make weigh less
I'm currently using 1inch particle board
 

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
I cut 2.75 inch holes in the, i also coated the inside with white primer and paint.
View attachment 3585711

to be honest i would love to make the next 6 panels i need to make weigh less
I'm currently using 1inch particle board
I'd look @ anything but any partical board they don't do well in humid conditions (swells ) loses strength & U soon will have a sag If you don't reinforce it
 

Thorhax

Well-Known Member
I'd look @ anything but any partical board they don't do well in humid conditions (swells ) loses strength & U soon will have a sag If you don't reinforce it
Humidity should never be over 40% in my rooms. have any idea of a good plastic i could use? strong and heat resistant.
 

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
Humidity should never be over 40% in my rooms. have any idea of a good plastic i could use? strong and heat resistant.
trust me y'll regret partical board any thing that's stiff will work PVC is easy to glue
PVC works in tents frames so you could use that (just throwin that out there never done a PVC lite )but have done frames with PVC y'd be surprised how strong it is
easy to screw into for sure
Wait brain fart = lol I got a ton of PVC tee , crosses & elbows & PVC pipe to match ..... hmmmmm maybe a PVC CPU Cooler build outta me got all inhouse / my cash went to 3590's
& did score 12 CPU coolers for 3$ each Hmmmmm got doz 3590 in hand & more coming Hmmm
 
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