guod
Well-Known Member
ahh, you found the FAR RED Chlorophyll.....
anyone else grow stromatoliths here?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chlorophyll_f
Matching Drivers and COBs
- Thread starter SupraSPL
- Start date
anyone else grow stromatoliths here?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chlorophyll_f
welight
Well-Known Member
Fastslappy
Well-Known Member
I got a platinum cut stoma' going
BOBBY_G
Well-Known Member
quick question to make sure i fully got it
say i wanted to build a 24 or cob array (multiples of both 6 and
i can put 8 3590s on a HLG-185H-C700 (chart capacity 8.6). These will top out at the regulated 700 mA (23W) or say 24W on an open dimmer circuit at 105% current. technically a 'waste' a little driver wattage here that i can never access (would be 25W/cob mx based on 200W driver)
if i pony up for 2 more drivers and put 6 on a HLG-185H-C1050 (chart capacity 5.6), these will max out at ~980 mA/33.3W each, but act identically to the system above when dimmed down to 700 mA, right?
in other words it just flatlines on current when you max out driver wattage.anyother disadvantage to doing it this way?
i want to operate it at a 64% efficient 700 mA most of the time but have that headroom to crank up to a 61% efficient 980
mA to get 37% more par watts on occasion
in the latter case is the driver being used as efficiently as possible since i am at 100% load with no dimming and 72% load on current at 700 mA. and 100% (effectively more?) voltage at any current.
or would there be any advantage to keeping it to 5 cobs per HLG-185H-C1050. i dont need a full 1050 mA, just trying to max out the driver utility
say i wanted to build a 24 or cob array (multiples of both 6 and
i can put 8 3590s on a HLG-185H-C700 (chart capacity 8.6). These will top out at the regulated 700 mA (23W) or say 24W on an open dimmer circuit at 105% current. technically a 'waste' a little driver wattage here that i can never access (would be 25W/cob mx based on 200W driver)
if i pony up for 2 more drivers and put 6 on a HLG-185H-C1050 (chart capacity 5.6), these will max out at ~980 mA/33.3W each, but act identically to the system above when dimmed down to 700 mA, right?
in other words it just flatlines on current when you max out driver wattage.anyother disadvantage to doing it this way?
i want to operate it at a 64% efficient 700 mA most of the time but have that headroom to crank up to a 61% efficient 980
mA to get 37% more par watts on occasion
in the latter case is the driver being used as efficiently as possible since i am at 100% load with no dimming and 72% load on current at 700 mA. and 100% (effectively more?) voltage at any current.
or would there be any advantage to keeping it to 5 cobs per HLG-185H-C1050. i dont need a full 1050 mA, just trying to max out the driver utility
MrTwist1
Well-Known Member
I am very interested in the answer to this question too... I feel like this would be about the optimum configuration for my build in a hot country with expensive electricity. cheersquick question to make sure i fully got it
say i wanted to build a 24 or cob array (multiples of both 6 and
i can put 8 3590s on a HLG-185H-C700 (chart capacity 8.6). These will top out at the regulated 700 mA (23W) or say 24W on an open dimmer circuit at 105% current. technically a 'waste' a little driver wattage here that i can never access (would be 25W/cob mx based on 200W driver)
if i pony up for 2 more drivers and put 6 on a HLG-185H-C1050 (chart capacity 5.6), these will max out at ~980 mA/33.3W each, but act identically to the system above when dimmed down to 700 mA, right?
in other words it just flatlines on current when you max out driver wattage.anyother disadvantage to doing it this way?
i want to operate it at a 64% efficient 700 mA most of the time but have that headroom to crank up to a 61% efficient 980
mA to get 37% more par watts on occasion
in the latter case is the driver being used as efficiently as possible since i am at 100% load with no dimming and 72% load on current at 700 mA. and 100% (effectively more?) voltage at any current.
or would there be any advantage to keeping it to 5 cobs per HLG-185H-C1050. i dont need a full 1050 mA, just trying to max out the driver utility
BOBBY_G
Well-Known Member
pretty sure it was answered in the first post
"If the number of COBs is 3.93 for example, you could run 4 and you won't get the full drive current but you will get full driver efficiency."
im guessing putting 6 on a 5.6 aint all that different than putting 4 on a 3.93.
i think the worst tha twould happen is if the driver started acting erratically youd just dim it into the acceptable current range. ohms law dont bend
"If the number of COBs is 3.93 for example, you could run 4 and you won't get the full drive current but you will get full driver efficiency."
im guessing putting 6 on a 5.6 aint all that different than putting 4 on a 3.93.
i think the worst tha twould happen is if the driver started acting erratically youd just dim it into the acceptable current range. ohms law dont bend
MrTwist1
Well-Known Member
Thanks man. I've been reading so much my head is spinning, but it confirms what I thought I knew lol. Always nice to have it confirmed. I've ordered some COBs and drivers now... about to order the rest of what I need for my build.
Thanks to everyone who contributes here - what a great community. I have been hanging over at ICMag for a few years, but it really seems like this is the place to be for COB information, so I'm settling in here now. Cheers
alesh
Well-Known Member
It's actually very different.
HLG-185H-1050 can only pull <<700mA through a string of 6 36V CXB3590 (there's only 31.66V / COB).
Budzbuddha
Well-Known Member
This is for the COB gurus -
I'm building a COB setup for my 3x3 ( 36x36x72 )
And have chose to use 4 ) CXB3070 - 3500k with cxa2520 - 5000k center
I would like separate dimming capabilities for both per driver.
But as i hunt down the 1400 driver , i see that there is a 1400 - 1400a -1400b - and a 1400c. Is there any profound difference in these versions - i would like to have the dimming option and not by internal pot.
The bulid will have 5 Artic64 coolers on a lattice frame.
Any help would be appreciated on the driver. ( for the CXB3070 )
Also is this mix of 3500k/5000k be a good ( base ) spectrum for veg thru bloom ?
I'm building a COB setup for my 3x3 ( 36x36x72 )
And have chose to use 4 ) CXB3070 - 3500k with cxa2520 - 5000k center
I would like separate dimming capabilities for both per driver.
But as i hunt down the 1400 driver , i see that there is a 1400 - 1400a -1400b - and a 1400c. Is there any profound difference in these versions - i would like to have the dimming option and not by internal pot.
The bulid will have 5 Artic64 coolers on a lattice frame.
Any help would be appreciated on the driver. ( for the CXB3070 )
Also is this mix of 3500k/5000k be a good ( base ) spectrum for veg thru bloom ?
BuddyColas
Well-Known Member
FYI…I tried to run 4 each Vero 29s on a HLG-185-C1400. Supra says it will run 3.93 Vero 29s. He’s right! All 4 would not fire up. If I went to 3, all was well. So the Meawell HLG-185-C1400 says a max of 132v total…and they really mean it.
So I found out with some dollars that 3.93 is actually LESS THAN 4.0. Just sharing. The moral of this story: allow a little “head room” voltage wise when you size your drivers.
Little question for expert of meanwell drivers the whit dimmer is default max power?or i need turn
manualy to max? in the file of specification i find only this:
IP65 rated. Constant current level can be adjusted through internal potentiometer.
(Can access by removing the rubber stopper on the case)
i have this driver:
manualy to max? in the file of specification i find only this:
IP65 rated. Constant current level can be adjusted through internal potentiometer.
(Can access by removing the rubber stopper on the case)
i have this driver:
bassman999
Well-Known Member
max power is achieved with pot turned all the way clocwiseLittle question for expert of meanwell drivers the whit dimmer is default max power?or i need turn
manualy to max? in the file of specification i find only this:
IP65 rated. Constant current level can be adjusted through internal potentiometer.
(Can access by removing the rubber stopper on the case)
i have this driver:
vahpor
Well-Known Member
More specifically, "MAX" power is when the blue and white wires are disconnected completely on the B version Meanwells. It is very likely your pot does not actually go all the way to 100k ohms. Unless you are running an additional ~10k resistor (or whatever value your specific pot requires to hit 100k ohm) in series, then you will be a bit closer...but a B driver makes its 'maximum capable' power output with the dimmer disconnected.
This is why I chose to run a switch in series with my pot. If I want 'boost mode', I disconnect the dimmer circuit all together by flipping a toggle switch.
bassman999
Well-Known Member
This is totally true.More specifically, "MAX" power is when the blue and white wires are disconnected completely on the B version Meanwells. It is very likely your pot does not actually go all the way to 100k ohms. Unless you are running an additional ~10k resistor (or whatever value your specific pot requires to hit 100k ohm) in series, then you will be a bit closer...but a B driver makes its 'maximum capable' power output with the dimmer disconnected.
This is why I chose to run a switch in series with my pot. If I want 'boost mode', I disconnect the dimmer circuit all together by flipping a toggle switch.
I have 2 identical drivers and they put out different wattage as a result of poor pot assembly sandards
nevergoodenuf
Well-Known Member
caks- pay attention to your wire selection and all your wiring. 350+ volts is no joke. Don't half ass anything when playing with that type of voltage.
BOBBY_G
Well-Known Member
great to know, that doesnt seem to be the way its presented.we need a faq!FYI…I tried to run 4 each Vero 29s on a HLG-185-C1400. Supra says it will run 3.93 Vero 29s. He’s right! All 4 would not fire up. If I went to 3, all was well. So the Meawell HLG-185-C1400 says a max of 132v total…and they really mean it.
So I found out with some dollars that 3.93 is actually LESS THAN 4.0. Just sharing. The moral of this story: allow a little “head room” voltage wise when you size your drivers.
Fastslappy
Well-Known Member
So the switch is inline with the pot,and with a open switch is the mean well@ full power \max then ?More specifically, "MAX" power is when the blue and white wires are disconnected completely on the B version Meanwells. It is very likely your pot does not actually go all the way to 100k ohms. Unless you are running an additional ~10k resistor (or whatever value your specific pot requires to hit 100k ohm) in series, then you will be a bit closer...but a B driver makes its 'maximum capable' power output with the dimmer disconnected.
This is why I chose to run a switch in series with my pot. If I want 'boost mode', I disconnect the dimmer circuit all together by flipping a toggle switch.
DarthBlazeAnthony
Well-Known Member
Damn man, now I must have a toggle switch. Keep the ideas comin buddy.More specifically, "MAX" power is when the blue and white wires are disconnected completely on the B version Meanwells. It is very likely your pot does not actually go all the way to 100k ohms. Unless you are running an additional ~10k resistor (or whatever value your specific pot requires to hit 100k ohm) in series, then you will be a bit closer...but a B driver makes its 'maximum capable' power output with the dimmer disconnected.
This is why I chose to run a switch in series with my pot. If I want 'boost mode', I disconnect the dimmer circuit all together by flipping a toggle switch.
bassman999
Well-Known Member
Exactly