DiY LEDs - How to Power Them

NapalmD

NapalmD

Well-Known Member
Is it possible to run five cxb 3590 off of a hlg185-1400a with each cob maxing out at 40w each oppose to running four cobs at 50w each or is that way over the max load?
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
NapalmD said:
Is it possible to run five cxb 3590 off of a hlg185-1400a with each cob maxing out at 40w each oppose to running four cobs at 50w each or is that way over the max load?
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It's a constant current driver. And 1.4a x 36=50-52 watts. So 4 is the max because it's a 200w drive. You could run 5 on an hlg240H-C1400 or the Pairui LGSU250-1400.
 
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ThaiBaby1

Well-Known Member
Hey guys,
Just testing my setup, will run 4 3590'S at 1400ma. Many thanks to Robin at Northerngrowlights.com for the heatsinks.I have a brand new meanwell 240 driver. My question is how hot the driver is supposed to get. After an hour the driver becomes very warm. I just ordered a ir thermometer today to check actual temps.
 
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Zulunature

Well-Known Member
ThaiBaby1 said:
Hey guys,
Just testing my setup, will run 4 3590'S at 1400ma. Many thanks to Robin at Northerngrowlights.com for the heatsinks.I have a brand new meanwell 240 driver. My question is how hot the driver is supposed to get. After an hour the driver becomes very warm. I just ordered a ir thermometer today to check actual temps.
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You could do the following as I have it's 3.5W to run these fans and it helps keep the driver temps down nicely.

I also found the driver to run almost to hot to touch after 6 odd hours but this solved my problem.
 

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ThaiBaby1

Well-Known Member
Zulunature said:
You could do the following as I have it's 3.5W to run these fans and it helps keep the driver temps down nicely.

I also found the driver to run almost to hot to touch after 6 odd hours but this solved my problem.
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Thanks Zulu, I think I have the very same fan, doesn't really bother as long as it's normal. Forgot to mention it was only pulling 78 watts or so. Just don't seem right
 
iHearAll

iHearAll

Well-Known Member
3X blue + 3X red @100watt max each.

All are in series and added up to 162ish volts @ 2.75ish amps. What i did was rectified the outlet, restored the peak voltage of my AC line with 2000uF of capacitance and am pulsing a MOSFET with the lights on the drain pin and @ a 10kHz 75% duty cycle square wave. Increasing the duty cycle increases the ON time and increases the current draw/light intensity.

Im just using my lab frequency generator but will build a variable frequency NE555 square wave generator that has a temp sensor controlled relay. The relay will add and remove a capacitor and the duty cycle will lower if the temperature gets too high. Then, flip back high once it is below the programmed temp.

Aside from lights, this driver powers all the lights and is only 10-20$ max.
Here's a pic of the current higher from an increased DC%. The rest of the pics are @ the previously described settings. Cheers
20160502_094551.jpg 20160502_191554.jpg 20160502_191543.jpg 20160502_191607.jpg
 
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Bill Lidgate

Active Member
I like to use inner melt heat shrink tubing over solder joints with these connectors if frequent disconnection is predicted:


Amp Superseal or one of their many affordable knockoffs.

Or cheap trailer connectors can give a little sealing:


If the circuit is NOT to be disconnected I use Molex Perma-Seal or the cheaper Express Seal (Partsexpress) crimps


Water + electricity = bad IMHO
 
disengaged

disengaged

Member
What's a good option for individual lower powered Vero's such as 10's, up to 18's? They make some which would be good for lighting up a house... you know, like finding your keys or to see what is in the pantry or a plant in a room without enough light. I want them dimmable with a very simple solution, with ability to run them up to 500ma.
 
iHearAll

iHearAll

Well-Known Member
disengaged said:
What's a good option for individual lower powered Vero's such as 10's, up to 18's? They make some which would be good for lighting up a house... you know, like finding your keys or to see what is in the pantry or a plant in a room without enough light. I want them dimmable with a very simple solution, with ability to run them up to 500ma.
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Whats the voltage? Id say a torroidial transformer from AC main to step the voltage down. Then rectifying and, restoring to Vpeak with a capacitor bank, and lastly connecting the LED to a MOSFET by connecting the positive end.of.the LED to power and the negative lead to the MOSFETs drain. Pulse the gate with a square wave. The amplitude of the.pulse and the duty cycle both can control the intensity of the LED and DC will control the current drawn.555-duty-cycle.gif ripple9.gif
Obviously these are just helpful pointers.

Edit: i found a vero 18 rated for 30v 1a there abouts. What i would do is wind a torroidial transformer to be good for 24v by winding 25 times on the primary and only 5 times on the secondary. Rectify, restore to 34vdc using the ripple formula on the lower right of that page. The restistance would be 30ohms (30v/1a) and your vpeak is 34. You want to find the capacitance so you gotta rearrange the formula. Again, lower eight hand aide of the ripple voltage page. The schematic is just a variable duty cycle circuit. This would have run off a lower voltage than 30v though. Like, 5-12v. You could ad a lower voltage tap on that transformer or do a voltage divider or just get a silicon 12v regulator.
 

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Bill Lidgate

Active Member
disengaged said:
What's a good option for individual lower powered Vero's such as 10's, up to 18's? They make some which would be good for lighting up a house... you know, like finding your keys or to see what is in the pantry or a plant in a room without enough light. I want them dimmable with a very simple solution, with ability to run them up to 500ma.
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As much as I've enjoyed building 555 circuits, the lazy part of me thinks the Mean Well HLN-40H-36A ($29 in stock at Jameco) would do a very good job powering either 2 Vero-10s* or 1 Vero 18*

for excellent CRI I'd use the
*BXRC-30A1001-B-23 $4.90
**BXRC-35A4001-F-23 $14.12
both in stock at Mouser

I think you need a 100k pot(entiometer) to dim, check this, if so this one would be good
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/bourns-inc/91A1A-B24-A20L/91A1A-B24-A20L-ND/3780946
 
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iHearAll

iHearAll

Well-Known Member
Bill Lidgate said:
As much as I've enjoyed building 555 circuits, the lazy part of me thinks the Mean Well HLN-40H-36A ($29 in stock at Jameco) would do a very good job powering either 2 Vero-10s* or 1 Vero 18*

for excellent CRI I'd use the
*BXRC-30A1001-B-23 $4.90
**BXRC-35A4001-F-23 $14.12
both in stock at Mouser

I think you need a 100k pot(entiometer) to dim, check this, if so this one would be good
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/bourns-inc/91A1A-B24-A20L/91A1A-B24-A20L-ND/3780946
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Yerp.. pwm. I buy the 5pc - 20pc potentiometers for guitar pedals on ebay. Some are board mount some are wire. Cept their metal and $5 for 5pcs pretty much. I like the plastic ones for circuits to be tuned and left alone but metal if i want the knob to be mounted into the box. I should build that 555 timer.. or a tl494cn. Those are a jelly bean pwm and can handle like 40v
 
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Bill Lidgate

Active Member
I'm all for nice RV4 4w metal/carbon pots when they are needed, but the cermet or CP pots are good for noise free use for 100k cycles, check out the inexpensive offerings from BI Technologies / TT Electronics at Mouser.

As to PWM there are some pretty attractive units coming from Asia, check this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6V-90V-15A-Pulse-Width-Modulator-PWM-DC-Motor-Speed-Control-Switch-Controller-DH-/171977923891?hash=item280aaedd33:g:czoAAOSwo6lWJufG

I couldn't build a similar one for 2x the price and I don't think I can see 15kHz flicker ;)
 
iHearAll

iHearAll

Well-Known Member
Bill Lidgate said:
I'm all for nice RV4 4w metal/carbon pots when they are needed, but the cermet or CP pots are good for noise free use for 100k cycles, check out the inexpensive offerings from BI Technologies / TT Electronics at Mouser.

As to PWM there are some pretty attractive units coming from Asia, check this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6V-90V-15A-Pulse-Width-Modulator-PWM-DC-Motor-Speed-Control-Switch-Controller-DH-/171977923891?hash=item280aaedd33:g:czoAAOSwo6lWJufG

I couldn't build a similar one for 2x the price and I don't think I can see 15kHz flicker ;)
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Yikes that's cheep. It's cool to think that engineering can be as simple as organizing parts like these for a greater purpose. I bet these kind of things will fit on silicon soon.
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Bill Lidgate said:
I'm all for nice RV4 4w metal/carbon pots when they are needed, but the cermet or CP pots are good for noise free use for 100k cycles, check out the inexpensive offerings from BI Technologies / TT Electronics at Mouser.

As to PWM there are some pretty attractive units coming from Asia, check this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6V-90V-15A-Pulse-Width-Modulator-PWM-DC-Motor-Speed-Control-Switch-Controller-DH-/171977923891?hash=item280aaedd33:g:czoAAOSwo6lWJufG

I couldn't build a similar one for 2x the price and I don't think I can see 15kHz flicker ;)
Click to expand...
So what you'd just put blue and white dimming leads into those screw terminals and done? What's the dofference between that and just a potentiometer with a resistor inline?
 
iHearAll

iHearAll

Well-Known Member
That thing would burn to all hell from 30 watts. You have.to find the output pin of the oscillator chip put the resistor pins across the output and ground and feed the MOSFETs with the wiper.
 
insert username

insert username

Well-Known Member
anyone know a cheap driver to power 2x cxb3590"s 36v , ive got two active cooled heatsinks rated to cool 109watts each if that makes a difference
 
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